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Help me re-design my loop

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phantasm

Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2006
Ok, I've had my water cooling setup in place for about 9 months now and all is well. I'm running at about 17c at idle and around 20-22c under load. I want to re-design the loop though to make it more efficient and manageable. Here's a shto of the current setup.

NOTE: This system is comprised of the components in my signature.

case.jpg


The current flow pattern is PUMP -> RAD -> CPU (MCP655 -> Black Ice GT 240 -> Swiftech Apogee).

Things I want to do:

1. Add a GPU block. I'm not sure whether to go with a core GPU block and heatsinks or a full coverage block. Any input is appreciated

2. Different tubing. I love the Tygon Silver tubing, it's great. It's not very manageable though. I would like to switch a smaller OD tubing and resist kinking as much as possible.

Current State:

The system is filled a t-line with the access port in the top of the case. I should probably add a drain line, as it is, when I drain it; it's going to be fun. lol.

So let's here it. I'm open to any and all suggestions.
 
I think that a block like the MCW60 with ramsinks is the better way to go than a full cover as it is less expensive and can be ported among different cards.

Full cover blocks look better however and may be easier to route in SLI setups.

What I can see to change is to take you rad and spin it 180 degrees. Then run your tubing pump-gpu-cpu-rad-pump inlet. It would eliminate a couple of fee of tubing by the looks of it. You might have to use a copper long sweep elbow however to make the bend from the rad to the pump inlet though if you spin the rad around. If you plumbed it this way, you could move your t-line to be at the CPU on the CPU-rad line. All of your air would work its way to the top when you fill so you shouldn't have a problem with the pump running dry while filling, and it would bleed in no time as your t-line would be at the highest point.

I don't understand what you are looking for when it comes to kinking resistance. Tygon is about the best tubing when it comes to tight bends that there is.
 
I paid a fair bit for a full water block for my 7950GT a little over a year ago and now that I want to upgrade to an 8800GT I cant take the WB with me because it wont fit :bang head.

Take the advice and buy a simple water block and ram sinks you wont regret it as much.

Silver has too many advantages to just give up and move to a 7/16". I would just buy a small section of 1/2" ID regular Tygon for the problem kink areas you might encounter and use left overs for a clear T line (easy to see how full it is).

To give you an idea how flexable and kink free tygon silver tubes are:



To drain I would probably just disconect the T line fron the fill port and hold the tube over a bucket.
 
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For one I would take the rad and turn it 180 degrees to make the length of the tubing much shorter.Second turn the pump so that the outlet goes straight up through the mid floor and the inlet is a short jump from the outlet of the rad once it is turned 180 degrees. Then you can add the line back into the out from the pump but probably make it a tad shorter, or fins a place for a cylindrical res or maybe even the swiftech micro res.

For the tubing don't worry. I am currently using the Tygon clear 1/2"id 3/4"od and have a tight bend in a 2" space between the barb off my 8800gtx and the floor of my armor case, made the bend so swiftly with no trace of a kink what so ever. In the pic you can see it behind the lines from the res.

DSC01317.jpg

I wouldn't change your tubing just reroute your setup. As for the GPU just add it inline and have the return tube just run straight down off the CPU block right through the GPU block and straight into the rad once it is flipped. Hope this idea helps you out, not much moving is need but it sure will shorten the length of your tubes by a good margin.

Full coverage GPU block will be ideal to use also.
 
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I wouldn't go the full coverage graphics card block either.

As for kinking, jus tmake sure you get the right kind of tubing.

If it's too thinly walled, then it will kink, if it's too stiff, then it will kink.

If you have really tight bends, and are tight on space, try 7/6" ID tygon with a wall of 3/32" (5/8" OD).

It will fit over 1/2"ID barbs, and will make some pretty radical bends without kinking, and won't be as bulky as standard 1/2"ID tubing.
 
Thanks for the input. I'm quite sick at the moment so i'll get back this as soon as i can. Thanks again.
 
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