Dumb #($* alert! Quick help needed.

Spbeyond · Jan 9, 2008

Okay so I setup the WC system to do some leak testing and ended up causing one. Okay so Im an idiot so I was wrenching the tubing onto the resivour real tight and the fitting came loose of the plastic and came out. So now I need to figure out how to glue it back in there water tight. Also I want to reinforce the acrylic part of my waterblock. Any suggestions to glues, and methods? Thanks I need help ASAP

Im gunna have a mess on my hands here soon as I didn't notice what Id done until I got the while thing fulled and it started spouting out of that spot.

Im a dumbass.

Jas · Jan 9, 2008

Glues aint gonna cut it. Your best bet would be to ditchthe busted res, and setup a T line for now.

Spbeyond · Jan 10, 2008

Son of a! Im not sure how to setup a t-line and I dont know how I can get the res off this pump. (Stupid thermaltake lcs)

Spbeyond · Jan 10, 2008

Here's whats going on. Im just testing the system out, outside the case.

Here is the top of the res, and the affected connection. As you can see it seems fine. Except that you can pull it right out so obviously I cant trust it as is near my computer.

Here is the connection between the pump and res. Can I take this off and put a hose to it?

Thanks

RIG RIDER · Jan 10, 2008

Spbeyond said:
H

Here is the connection between the pump and res. Can I take this off and put a hose to it?

Thanks

From what I can tell from that pic, it looks like you can unscrew the res and replace it with a hose barb to fit your tubing.

A different photo of that would help. I would drain the loop and remove the res to see what you will need to mount a hose barb (male/female) to the pump.

What kit is that? I know it's a thermaltake, but what model # is it?

Spbeyond · Jan 10, 2008

Im not sure on a model number, but it is the stock Kandalf LCS. http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Chassis/fulltower/Kandalf_lcs/vd4000bws.asp

I thnk im going to try out calking the **** out of it or something as a temp fix. I mean its not like it has any real pressure on that location and its not under water. And its on the top so gravity is helping to keep it in there. Im going to get a new pump and resivour within about 4-6 months. And a new rad somewhere in there.

RIG RIDER · Jan 10, 2008

Spbeyond said:
Im not sure on a model number, but it is the stock Kandalf LCS. http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/product/Chassis/fulltower/Kandalf_lcs/vd4000bws.asp

I thnk im going to try out calking the **** out of it or something as a temp fix. I mean its not like it has any real pressure on that location and its not under water. And its on the top so gravity is helping to keep it in there. Im going to get a new pump and resivour within about 4-6 months. And a new rad somewhere in there.

You are asking for a leek, and fryed parts if you try to calk it.
A "T" line is the best way around your current problem. By using the T line you will remove the potential leek.

If you need to see how others have used a T line, look here: http://www.ocforums.com/showpost.php?p=1483560&postcount=8
The second photo show the use.
And look through this sticky: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=138275

Hipcrostino · Jan 10, 2008

just so you know, don't expect too much from that kit. Have a look at some of our setups here and you will see why.

You should be able to get that res off the pump somehow.

Spbeyond · Jan 10, 2008

Oh i know.Its a very temp setup for me. I just need to find a radiator that will fit into the door where the current one is I would be in business! I cant believe how stupid or cheap you would need to be to design a LCS that is 3/8 tube then goes into a rad that is 1/4 tubing! What could you be thinking? Dummies! Anyway Thanks for your help everyone. I am just going to buy a bay resivour and hook that up. Anyone got a suggestion on that? Thanks!

Spbeyond · Jan 10, 2008

I contacted thermaltake and they are cross shipping me me a new Resivour. Also they said that you can just pull the res off the pump but you need alot of pressure. So I guess it is friction attached with 2 o-rings he said. So that is good to know for the future. I will proably end up with a new pump and res anyway in short order but its always good to have backup equipment. Plus I might do a second loop. Thanks everyone

Dumb #($* alert! Quick help needed.

Spbeyond

Registered

Jas

Member

Spbeyond

Registered

Spbeyond

Registered

RIG RIDER

Member

Spbeyond

Registered

RIG RIDER

Member

Hipcrostino

Member

Spbeyond

Registered

Spbeyond

Registered

Similar threads