Need a tube res for the T-line

Pricing up a new build and I'm going to use Tygon Black tubing... Well, I just though, "Hey it's black I won't be able to see the water level." So now I've got to find a solution to be able to watch the water level. I figured one of the tube style resevoirs would get the job done and look clean enough.

I'm looking at the EK Multioption RES 150 Rev.2 placed between a fillport at the top of the case and a T-line placed right before the pump. Will this res work well enough for that purpose or is there a better option?

I have my t-line mounted to the top of my case. I use that to monitor water levels as it is the highest section of my loop. Any chance of making a small section at the top of your t-line clear so you can monitor levels? It'll save you some $$$.

satandole666 said:

I have my t-line mounted to the top of my case. I use that to monitor water levels as it is the highest section of my loop. Any chance of making a small section at the top of your t-line clear so you can monitor levels? It'll save you some $$$.

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Yeah, I could probably do that easy enough and it'd probably be high enough that you wouldn't be able to see it unless you specifically look for it.

Tak said:

Yeah, I could probably do that easy enough and it'd probably be high enough that you wouldn't be able to see it unless you specifically look for it.

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That's exactly what I did. I have clear tubing but I like my loop to look clean. You might also look into the 5 1/2" bay reservoirs as they look good from the front and are easy to monitor.

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=190&cat=6&page=1

Is this what you are looking for?

RIG RIDER said:

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=190&cat=6&page=1

Is this what you are looking for?

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Nice. Seems like a lot of antifreeze though.

RIG RIDER said:

http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=190&cat=6&page=1

Is this what you are looking for?

Click to expand...

Yeah, that might work. Thanks for the link!

Here is a few more places to get the same fill port res.

http://www.svc.com/ddfprw-sl.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=318&products_id=3657
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2231/ex-res-85/Danger_Den_Fillport_Reservoir.html?tl=g30c97s169

I use a 1/2x1/2x3/4" copper T and make the T-line 3/4" clear tubing. A foot of 3/4" tubing holds a little more than half a MicroRes and is much easier to attach. The 3/4" T also makes bleeding very easy compared to a standard T since the 3/4" is wider than the 1/2" it's mated to.

Note, a very short piece of 1/2" tubing inside the 3/4" tubing is needed to firmly attach to a standard fillport. Then screw clamp and you're ready to rock ...

how do i get a t-line higher than the rest of my loop iff my radiator is on the top of my case, im not sure how much higher i can get.

I also have the black tygon tubing... so you guys are saying use a clear piece of tubing for the waterline to check water levels?

You have obviously got to see the water level somewhere, so either making the t-line clear or using the fillport res are both viable options. Or if you want, you can go the res route. That is what I have done. I have black copper painted lines and use a clear reservoir.

Your T-line doesn't have to be higher than the rad - don't worry about it. If your T-line goes to the top of your case (for maximum water storage) you'll be fine. I have two rigs built that way and they bled out fine in about an hour.

Keep in mind these are closed loops so the water level in the T-line will not rise to the highest water point. The T-line is a dead end once the loop is bled out - unless you have another hole in the system somewhere to equalize the air pressure from outside. Even with large tubing (like 3/4") air bubbles take awhile to travel up a tube and your water flow will easily overcome any air movement due to gravity.


If you're still having trouble picturing this go fill up a sink with water. Now, submerge a glass completely in the water (making sure it has no air in it) and pull it out of the water with the bottom side up keeping the rim of the glass below the water level. The water will stay in the glass until the rim is out of the water. You can even take a piece of tubing and move it through the water and into the full, upside-down glass without a problem. As long as the part of the tube that's inside the glass doesn't have any air in it the other end of the tube can be open to the air and the upside-down glass will hold water above the water level in the sink ...