So I bought a TT lcs...

what do I need to replace?

Its a Kandalf LCS that I really like the size of, plenty of room to maneuver hose in, pre-made space for a massive radiator, and more drive bays than the cd duplicator at church. The only problem is that since I bought it I have read nothing but bad things about tt water cooling.

I haven't used it yet, still waiting on a couple parts, but I want it before winter-een-mas if possible. I guess some specs are needed to know what I need before anything can be recommended.

Q6600
Abit IP35 Pro
Corsair Dominator 2x 1gig pc8500
GeForce 8800GLS 320mb
Raptor 150gb
WD 250gb
WD 80gb

I will be cooling the cpu and overclocking it to a comfortable level. Nothing that will get me reaching for a peltier, but I would like to get my moneys worth. I might cool the raptor, but that is a later upgrade. I really don't know about the GLS. I might try to get something with more ram but for the immediate future it is what I have.

So I know I need a new pump simply because the supplied one will die in 3-6 months. The reservoir will just be replaced with a T tube and a fill hole (the case is tall enough it will probably hold the same amount). And I will probably mix my own coolant as I've found no less than a dozen places with ratios to use.

Any suggestions for pumps or blocks? I'm attracted to an eheim but that is just my love of metal over plastic. Something that tucks away up front under the hdd bay would be fine.

All that is well and good but what about the radiator? I don't think I've seen anything saying to replace it specifically. And what about the hoses and fittings that came with the radiator?

Thermaltake watercooling isn't really all that bad, its just very expensive considering it performs about as well as medium decent aircooling.

Pump -For cheap, get a Via Aqua 2300. For good get a MCP655/355

Block -For cheap, get a DTek Whitewater. For good get an Apogee GT or DTek Fuzion

You don't really need to replace the radiator if you are only cooling the CPU, and if you do I very much doubt you'll see a real increase in performance. If you must have the very best, then get a PA120.3

P.S. Don't cool the raptor, not worth it

P.S.S. I've never heard of an 8800GLS before. Is that a typo or some esoteric g80 variant?

First to the forums, second.


BAD BAD BAD, now go to your room and think about what you've done!

JK

Ok, well, here's the thing, that TT kit that comes with the Kandalf LCS is pretty much garbage. The biggest culprit is the radiator. If you were going to replace anything first, I would start with the Radiator. You can pick up a HW labs or Swiftech 120.3 sized rad for around $50 shipped. Either would be a great choice.

Next thing I would consider replacing woudl be the CPU block. For a quad core, Either a DTEK Fuzion, swiftech Apogee, or a Danger Den Maze 5.

Finally, upgrade that pump. a D5 (MCP655) would do yo unicely, or if you want to stick with 3/8" ID tubing, a MCP355.

Sorry, that was a typo I keep on making. 8800 gts.

I'm looking around at the various retailers now for your recommendations.

Sidwinder, and Jab-tech seem to have the best prices right now.

If you wanted to just buy a whoel new setup, that will water cool the CPU and GPU, Here is what I would suggest:

CPU BLock: DTEK Fuzion $60
GPU Block: Swifteck MCW60 $44
Pump: MCP655 (D5) $80
Ram Sinks: Swiftech MC8800 kit $35 Or two MC14 8 packs.
Radiator: Swiftech MCR320 $45
Tubing: 10' Clearflex 60 $10
Hose clamps: ~$2.50
Copper 3/8"ID T fitting from hardware store : $.90
Optional fillport: $13

You'd be looking at around $300 for all that shipped.

You could knock maybe $50 off if you went with cheaper blocks.

I just put together a similar setup using the apogee gt ($42) and no gpu cooling. I think that would be better suited as an upgrade for my first coolant change. Including a fill port.

Some questions about the gt, gtx and fuzion. The gtx comes with an aluminum top. In the long run has that shown to corrode and it should be replaced with the $30 copper top? The fuzion doesn't appear to have a back plate, is it not needed does it come with one but I am missing it? And it looks like the GT has plastic barbs. Should those be replaced?

Oh and this is all using 1/2" barbs and tubing. No real reason except this case should be able to use them without having sharp turns and kinks.

The GT uses plastic barbs yes, and they work just fine. The GTX is actualy a plated top, no worry about corrosion.

As far as the "back plate" you mean for the motherboard? You shouldn't need a back plate for mounting.

The apogee GT will work just fine for you, the DTEK fuzion will give you slightly better temps on a quad, only reaosn i reocmended it.

yoippari said:

Some questions about the gt, gtx and fuzion. The gtx comes with an aluminum top. In the long run has that shown to corrode and it should be replaced with the $30 copper top? The fuzion doesn't appear to have a back plate, is it not needed does it come with one but I am missing it? And it looks like the GT has plastic barbs. Should those be replaced?

Oh and this is all using 1/2" barbs and tubing. No real reason except this case should be able to use them without having sharp turns and kinks.

Click to expand...

Spend $4 and get a Thermalright backplate for the CPU block as either block does bow the MB. -http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/lgbowiscsp.html

7/16"ID or 1/2"ID with 1/2" barbs on your blocks are both good ways to go. If you want less bulk, then the 7/16"ID 5/8"OD is fine. I have a larger case so I just go ahead and use 1/2"ID 3/4"OD since it is very easy to slip over barbs, whereas the 7/16"ID takes soaking the ends in hot water to get on.

I personally won't spend the money on a block that uses Alu, although the plating should prevent any corrosion indefinitely. I really do like the construction of the Fuzion better. If you do get the Fuzion, go ahead and get a nozzle kit for it for $7 as it provides some nice extra options.

Kudos to you for doing your homework and reading around on this. If you know what you are looking for and do some research on it, you will be happier with the result.

I had my order in before you posted last night Voigts. I got the gt and only 1/2"x5/8" tubing.

And it seems I should have read the gt's description closer. They said "baseplate" enough that I misread at least one of them and thought "backplate" so I'll need to order one of those.

Is there any thing else I am missing?
Swiftech Apogee GT universal water block
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump
Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator- Barbs: 1/2" Plastic Barbs
Dangerden Fillport - Delrin
Dangerden Fill Syringe
Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black x 10
Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID 5/8" OD Chemical Tubing 6
ARCTIC SILVER ARCTICLEAN 60ML KIT - THERMAL MATERIAL REMOVER

Which now that I look at it it is almost a swiftech kit isn't it? I already have some arctic silver 5 and my current TT radiator is I think exactly the same thickness as this one so the rad cage should fit. The main difference will be the hose routing. Speaking of hoses I could have sworn I ordered a T. I guess I'll have to get one at home depot.

Ok, yo uwill have some issues with that tubing. It's thin walled, and very soft, and will kink like crazy. I HIGHLY recomend you order some 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing. You can get Clearflex 60 at under $1 a foot.

As for a backplate, you won't need one with the Gt. The mounting hardware supplied shouldn't put enough pressure on the block to bow the mobo. It wouldn't hurt ot get one, but shouldn't be necessary.

I guess I'll try it without first and see what happens. And I'll see what happens with the tubing since I'm waiting for the block anyway. On second thought... with the radiator mounted in the door the tubes will move around more often than most. I guess for that alone I should order the 3/4"OD. Darn.

Trust me, you'll want new tubing. I accidently ordered some thin walled tygon a few years ago, 25' of it. You'll see just how soft it is when you get it. It doesn't take well to anything but large radius bends, and even then it has a tendency to collapse on itself. It works fine for strain shots, I use the thin walled stuff for my T line tubing that runs form the fill port to the T. That is just a strait shot so no wory about kinking there.

I ordered the new tubing and the back plate just to be on the safe side. For the tubing I went for the tygon silver for less maintenance. One more question before stuff starts arriving. Are all the parts I have here aluminum free? I assume so because these seem to be very common parts but I don't want to assume and run into problems after running straight distilled water.

Doesn't the Apogee GT come with a backplate?

The product description has a hold down plate which sits on top of the block but never says anything about a backplate.

yoippari said:

The product description has a hold down plate which sits on top of the block but never says anything about a backplate.

Click to expand...

No, the Apogee also comes with a black backplate. I believe this started around June last year. I bought two Apogee Gt blocks since than and both came with a backplate for lga775 socket.

I used TT 745 kit, believe me you're doing the right thing to get real stuff as recommended above. The only stuff worth your time from TT are the TMG radiators and the TT Brazing Series GPU block, that's all.

yoippari said:

I ordered the new tubing and the back plate just to be on the safe side. For the tubing I went for the tygon silver for less maintenance. One more question before stuff starts arriving. Are all the parts I have here aluminum free? I assume so because these seem to be very common parts but I don't want to assume and run into problems after running straight distilled water.

Click to expand...

Yes, they are all copper. And with Tygon silver, you won't need any anti-algae additives.

What about for the T-line? Would using the thin walled clear stuff so I can use it as a res cause any problems, like with letting light in.

Yeah, if you are going to use the silver use it for everything. Otherwise you might see some algea growth in the T line.