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Deciding on waterblock

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Elluzion

Member
Joined
Jul 3, 2007
Location
[NorCal]
trying to decide on a waterblock for my cpu.

My price range: $70 and below

I had these in my top 2 picks:

Apogee GTX Extreme
http://jab-tech.com/Apogee-GTX-Extreme-Performance-CPU-Waterblock-pr-3730.html

or Dtek Fuzion
http://jab-tech.com/D-tek-FuZion-CPU-Water-Block-pr-3667.html

anyone see a difference in the 2 as far as performance? thanks


Also, i am having trouble deciding if i should do a T-line or a Reservoir. my Radiator is giong to be at the top of the inside of my case ( it is a full tower) i thought that it would be hard to bleed with a t line because doesn't it have to be higher than all the other components? Any help is appreciated. im fairly new to watercooling
 
For a Quad, I'd say Go with the DTEK Fuzion

As for res or T line. Either would work. It won't matter if your Radiator is at the top, but with that arangemnt, I would say go T-Line.
 
For a Quad, I'd say Go with the DTEK Fuzion

As for res or T line. Either would work. It won't matter if your Radiator is at the top, but with that arangemnt, I would say go T-Line.

all i need for a t line is just a bracket that goes =||= right? and then a cap for the top of the line. do i need a fill port? like this one:

http://jab-tech.com/Dangerden-Fillport-Delrin-pr-3489.html

yeah i heard the Dtek fuzion does the best.
 
Those Danger Den fill ports are great, I would recomend one if you plan to use a T.

As for the 'T' it's self, go to the hardware store and pick up a 3/8" ID Nibco Copper T fitting for copper pipe.

Here's why, first off, it's all copper, we like that. Second, its actually not 3/8" ID, it's actually ~7/16" ID, with an OD of about 9/16" (It's a fitting made ot go over 3/8" ID pipe, so it; sbigger than the 3/8" pipe) . You can just slip 1/2" Id tubbing right over it, and clamp it down. You get virtually no restriction with it, it's nice and wide, and it's cheap, a single one is less than a buck.

You'll find them in the plumbing section.
 
GTX!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! if you want looks anyway, i will be getting it plus the copper top for looks.

otherwise the dtek is i believe 1 degree cooler.

EDIT: the gtx and copper top will put you over so get the dtek.
 
where is a good place to find how to fill my loop and setup all my components etc??? stickies didn't come up with much for me.
 
It's pretty simple really.

Assuming you are using a T line. You would fill up the T lien till it reaches the top. Then you would turn on the pump. (this is usually done by "shorting" the PSU) Let pump run for a coupel seconds, switch it off, Top of fyour T line, and keep repeating till the loop is full.

As the loop fills yo uwill be able to leave th epump on for longer bursts, until finally when the loop i nearly full you can just leave it on and top off the T line as it lowers.

To Short the PSU, get a paper clip, bend it into a U shape. Stick one end in the mothe rboard connector where you see the GREEN wire near the clip. Stick the second end into ANY BLACK wire.
 
^why can't you just run it and then slowly fill it up while its running till its topped off?

Also, what is the difference between connecting the t-line to a fill port like the one i posted up above: http://jab-tech.com/Dangerden-Fillport-Delrin-pr-3489.html

or a cap?
like this:
http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadentuplf1i.html
just putting a cap on the end of the tubing so the water can't get out. is the fillport worth it? advantages? disadvantages?

does the cap or the fillport have to be copper just like the cpu block? it says for the fillport that the thing is nickel plated brass. will this affect anything?

Sorry i ask so many questions.
 
Last edited:
Well, tyou don't want to burn out your pump, so it's best to just switch it one and off in short bursts till the loop is nearly full. If you leave the Paper clip connected, you can just use the power switch on the bakc of the PSU to turn things on and off.

The fill port can act as a cap, but it's main purpose is to allow yo uto fill the loop easily. If yo uuse a 1" hole saw, and cut a hoel in the top of your cas,e yo ucan moutn the fill port there, attach the tub to it, and then fill it through the fill port. It's nice and easy.
 
Well, tyou don't want to burn out your pump, so it's best to just switch it one and off in short bursts till the loop is nearly full. If you leave the Paper clip connected, you can just use the power switch on the bakc of the PSU to turn things on and off.

The fill port can act as a cap, but it's main purpose is to allow yo uto fill the loop easily. If yo uuse a 1" hole saw, and cut a hoel in the top of your cas,e yo ucan moutn the fill port there, attach the tub to it, and then fill it through the fill port. It's nice and easy.

yeah good point.

I want to use the fill port but will it be ok on the back side of my case? actually i dont know how it would fill up if it wasn't straight up. you know some cases come with those watercooling holes in the back, could i put the fill port through there? but then i would be filling it up sideways and im not sure how that would work.
 
You'd have to tilt the case side ways. Probably not the best solution. All you need is a 1" hole saw, and a drill. Takes less than a minute to cut the hole, and then install the fill port. Other wis,e you can just attach it to the t lin etubing and let it rest inside your case and then you just unscrew the nut on top, and fill.
 
I forgot that i had black tubing, so i might go with a res or i could get a foot of clear tubing just for the t line.
 
Well, emptying a loop cna be done a number of ways. You can put in a "drain", which can take many different forms. A common practise is a 2nd T that faced downwards, and is capped. to drian you just uncapp it, and open up your main T or res (so air can get in). Some people will actuall ymodify resevoirs, or even Radiators to have a drain on them.

I prefer the simple route. I just put a bucket next to the case, disconnect a tube, letting it drain, and then I just go down the line removing components, and drinaing them out one at a time.
 
Well, emptying a loop cna be done a number of ways. You can put in a "drain", which can take many different forms. A common practise is a 2nd T that faced downwards, and is capped. to drian you just uncapp it, and open up your main T or res (so air can get in). Some people will actuall ymodify resevoirs, or even Radiators to have a drain on them.

I prefer the simple route. I just put a bucket next to the case, disconnect a tube, letting it drain, and then I just go down the line removing components, and drinaing them out one at a time.

Yeah that sounds pretty easy. Well if I did a T-line it wouldn't be much cheaper than getting a res because i would need another foot of clear tubing and then a fillport. but i might just get a cap instead of a fill port coming out of my computer. decisions decisions.... pshhhh.
 
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