WC Noob Needs Advice

Xerran · Jan 27, 2008

Hello all, after 7 years of building my own rigs I just started overclocking and after seeing the performance gains I'm completely hooked on the subject. I'm first and foremost a hardcore PC gamer who settles for nothing less than maxed out in game settings, except of course CRYSIS because that games settings are insane. My reasons for wanting to switch to WC are to beat the summer heat, achieve my OC'ing goal of "3.20GHz/1420FSB" and kill fan noise.

My system will basically be the same but my Q6600 B3 will be upgraded to a G0 stepping and my RAM replaced with OCZ PC2-6400 ReaperX HPC Enhanced Bandwidth 4GB Dual Channel.
I've been putting together a list of components and would be most grateful to hear any feedback.
I do want to use compression fittings where possible but I need you guys to please educate me on the whole fittings and tubing size business.
Money is not that much of an issue as I will be blowing my tax return, hope its not lame this year.
Thanks in advance guys.

WC Component List:-
Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump w/ 3/8" Conversion Kit $89.95
Swiftech Apogee GTX Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock $75.95
Enzotech SNBW-SLI Northbridge Waterblock $49.95
EK GeForce 8800 GT Waterblock (EK-FC88 GT/GTS-G92) x2 $223.90
ThermoChill PA120.2 Dual 120mm Radiator $124.95
SWIFTECH MCRES-Micro Reservoir $14.95
7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Tygon R-3603 Laboratory-Grade Tubing
G1/4" Compression Fittings x8 $55.92
Petra'sTech "Gel-Stuff" Vibration Absorption Block $3

meionm · Jan 27, 2008

For Rady either MCR320 or thermochill PA120.3
CPU Block: Maybe dtek fuzion since it has no aluminium top.
Northbridge: Northbridge waterblock in my opinion are useless, they reduce flow and add some heat. Maybe a air cooled northbrdge.
GPU block: Ek blocks are nice though they probably will not work on next generation of cards, maybe swiftech mcw60 with some heatsinks.

Xerran · Jan 27, 2008

Thanks for your input

meionm said:
For Rady either MCR320 or thermochill PA120.3
CPU Block: Maybe dtek fuzion since it has no aluminium top.
Northbridge: Northbridge waterblock in my opinion are useless, they reduce flow and add some heat. Maybe a air cooled northbrdge.
GPU block: Ek blocks are nice though they probably will not work on next generation of cards, maybe swiftech mcw60 with some heatsinks.

I have revised the list but what about fans? Will three "120mm Scythe SFF21E S-FLEX Case Fans (49 CFM/20.1 dBA)" be ok for the radiator?

LIST:-
Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump w/ 3/8" Conversion Kit $89.95
Swiftech Apogee GTX Extreme Performance CPU Waterblock $75.95
Swiftech MCW60 VGA Waterblock x2 $89.2
Enzotech Forged Copper VGA Memory Heatsink Multipack (BMR-C1) x2 $25
Swiftech MCR320 Triple 120mm Radiator (MCR320-QP-K) $56.99
Swiftech MCB-120 Revision 2 "Radbox" Radiator/Fan Housing $19.95
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir $14.95
Tygon Silver Antimicrobial Tubing
Horizon Blue UV Reactive CoolSleeve for 3/8" ID Tubing (40" Piece) $4.99
1/2" OD Reusable Tubing Clamp x12 $12
Petra'sTech "Gel-Stuff" Vibration Absorption Block $3

billb · Jan 27, 2008

Xerran said:
120mm Scythe SFF21E S-FLEX Case Fans (49 CFM/20.1 dBA)

LIST:-
Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump w/ 3/8" Conversion Kit $89.95
Swiftech MCR320 Triple 120mm Radiator (MCR320-QP-K) $56.99
Swiftech MCB-120 Revision 2 "Radbox" Radiator/Fan Housing $19.95
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir $14.95
Tygon Silver Antimicrobial Tubing
Horizon Blue UV Reactive CoolSleeve for 3/8" ID Tubing (40" Piece) $4.99
1/2" OD Reusable Tubing Clamp x12 $12

First off, your requirements for "achieve my OC'ing goal of "3.20GHz/1420FSB" and kill fan noise." are rather bizzare.
1.) You have no idea how far a system wilkl OC until you actually do it.
2.) 3.2 for a Q6600 is rather modest
3.) With watercooling, killing fan noise and overclock are as mutually exclusive as high end gaming rig and not a lot of money.

That being said:
"Water Pump w/ 3/8" ...1/2"
"MCR320 Triple" ...a PA120.3 will vastly outperform that
"Radbox" Radiator/Fan Housing" ...just use standoffs
"Reservoir" ...a T-line will save you money and grief
"Reusable Tubing Clamp" ..Stainless steel worm clamps
"Tubing" 1/2" or 7/16"
"CoolSleeve for 3/8" ...1/2" and you won't know if you need this until you actually route the tubing.

You can't just "pick" fans. They are sized according to the amount of cooling you need.

If you haven't seen these so far, they may help:
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showtopic=20277
http://www.thermochill.com/PATesting/ (in particular, the last graph)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=77260
http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=12581&highlight=optimal+fan

Ben333 · Jan 27, 2008

a b3 on water should do around 4 GHz I'd think...

billb · Jan 27, 2008

ben333 said:
a b3 on water should do around 4 GHz I'd think...

3.8 for sure!

Xerran · Jan 27, 2008

billb said:
First off, your requirements for "achieve my OC'ing goal of "3.20GHz/1420FSB" and kill fan noise." are rather bizzare.
1.) You have no idea how far a system wilkl OC until you actually do it.
2.) 3.2 for a Q6600 is rather modest
3.) With watercooling, killing fan noise and overclock are as mutually exclusive as high end gaming rig and not a lot of money.

That being said:
"Water Pump w/ 3/8" ...1/2"
"MCR320 Triple" ...a PA120.3 will vastly outperform that
"Radbox" Radiator/Fan Housing" ...just use standoffs
"Reservoir" ...a T-line will save you money and grief
"Reusable Tubing Clamp" ..Stainless steel worm clamps
"Tubing" 1/2" or 7/16"
"CoolSleeve for 3/8" ...1/2" and you won't know if you need this until you actually route the tubing.

You can't just "pick" fans. They are sized according to the amount of cooling

The Coolsleeve is just for aesthetics only and the loudest thing in my rig are my two 8800 GT's. I know my OC'ing goal may seem lame to some but hey thats me, I take baby steps. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

Xerran · Feb 3, 2008

OK after days of searching the net my final revised WC components list.

What do you guys think?

Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump $89.95
D-tek FuZion CPU Waterblock $69.99
D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit $6.99 @ jab-tech.com
Danger Den Maze5 Video Card Waterblock x2 $97.9
Enzotech VGA Memory Heatsink Multipack (BMR-C1) x2 $25
ThermoChill PA120.2 Dual 120mm Radiator $124.95
ThermoChill PA120.2 Dual 120mm Shroud $22.99
Danger Den G 1/4" High Flow Thread Barb - 1/2" ID x2 (for the Radiator)
ZALMAN ZM-F3 120x25mm Fan x2 $19.98
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir $14.95
Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (1/8" Wall) Tubing
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band w/Liner) x10 $12.50
Feser VS.C° - Heat Carrier x2
Pentek In-Line Water Filter $22.99

Thermaltake Armor+ VH6000BWS Chassis

DoubleB · Feb 3, 2008

Sidewinder Computers has that pump for seventy something $....just got one from them.

I don't see a need for an inline filter...nix that. I have no clue on gpu coolers. Everything else looks pretty good.

jrank001 · Feb 3, 2008

Xerran. Please let me know how these items work out for you. I want to go water also and would like your feedback on these parts.

Dice · Feb 3, 2008

Xerran said:
OK after days of searching the net my final revised WC components list.

What do you guys think?

Swiftech MCP655-B 12v Water Pump $89.95
D-tek FuZion CPU Waterblock $69.99
D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit $6.99 @ jab-tech.com
Danger Den Maze5 Video Card Waterblock x2 $97.9
Enzotech VGA Memory Heatsink Multipack (BMR-C1) x2 $25
ThermoChill PA120.2 Dual 120mm Radiator $124.95
ThermoChill PA120.2 Dual 120mm Shroud $22.99
Danger Den G 1/4" High Flow Thread Barb - 1/2" ID x2 (for the Radiator)
ZALMAN ZM-F3 120x25mm Fan x2 $19.98
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir $14.95
Tygon R-3603 1/2" ID 3/4" OD (1/8" Wall) Tubing
Stainless Steel Worm-Drive Hose Clamp (Wide Band w/Liner) x10 $12.50
Feser VS.C° - Heat Carrier x2
Pentek In-Line Water Filter $22.99

Thermaltake Armor+ VH6000BWS Chassis

For the most part this list looks good. I am not sure about those fans, but I will trust that you have done your homework on them.

I will raise my eyebrow on the inline water filter, though. Judging by the price, I will assume you are talking about this: http://www.petrastechshop.com/peinwafi.html According to the label of the coolant you plan to use "Feser VS.C - Heat Carrier x2" I cannot fathom why on earth you would need or even want an inline filter.

May I suggest you forget about the filter and that coolant, and instead use a 1:10 solution of antifreeze (Pet safe if you can) and distilled water? I'd also to the solution a drop or 2 of alcohol-free iodine to kill any algae before it can grow.

Xerran · Feb 3, 2008

Dice said:
For the most part this list looks good. I am not sure about those fans, but I will trust that you have done your homework on them.

I will raise my eyebrow on the inline water filter, though. Judging by the price, I will assume you are talking about this: http://www.petrastechshop.com/peinwafi.html According to the label of the coolant you plan to use "Feser VS.C - Heat Carrier x2" I cannot fathom why on earth you would need or even want an inline filter.

May I suggest you forget about the filter and that coolant, and instead use a 1:10 solution of antifreeze (Pet safe if you can) and distilled water? I'd also to the solution a drop or 2 of alcohol-free iodine to kill any algae before it can grow.

The filter would be in my loop for no more than a week to catch any potential debris from entering the CPU and GPU blocks.

Dice · Feb 3, 2008

Xerran said:
The filter would be in my loop for no more than a week to catch any potential debris from entering the CPU and GPU blocks.

I understand your concern; you are laying down quite a sum of money for this cooling system (not to mention the hardware it is to cool) and want to protect your investments. I also know you said money is not the limiting factor, and that is sweet. But let me try to clarify the issue of having that filter in your system.

Let us start with the order in which the W/C components should be.

Pump -> [CPU/GPU/Radiator] -> res ->pump. (The items in [] can really be in any order, but the res should feed the pump.)

Now, to protect the blocks from particulate suspended in the coolant isn't really neccessary. They are pretty tough. If I were concerned about saving a component from that stuff, it would be either the pump itself, or the rad, or both. But I would be far more concerned about the pump. This is due to it being the only (wet) moving part in the loop and it grinding up the metal/paint/whatever flakes would do the most damage to the entire loop. This would mean the filter should be before the pump in order to clean the coolant. Here is the caveat: Having a restrictive part just before the inlet of the pump will negatively affect the ability of your loop to cool the hardware, and this defeats the whole purpose of this project. I will provide links to back up this statement, should you desire.

On the other hand, you could rinse out the blocks, rad, tubing, and res in the kitchen sink before installing them.

leftheaded · Feb 4, 2008

i think the pump you have listed is MCP655-B, where b is for "basic", but they have MCP655 without the "-B" and it has a variable speed. i'm not exactly sure, but I just ordered the pump on friday and i picked the MCP655

Xerran · Feb 4, 2008

jrank001 said:
Xerran. Please let me know how these items work out for you. I want to go water also and would like your feedback on these parts.

Most certainly will do. I have an ok tax return this year and should get my check next week then its off to the wonderful PETRAS I keep hearing great things about. :beer:

Xerran · Feb 4, 2008

Dice said:
I understand your concern; you are laying down quite a sum of money for this cooling system (not to mention the hardware it is to cool) and want to protect your investments. I also know you said money is not the limiting factor, and that is sweet. But let me try to clarify the issue of having that filter in your system.

Let us start with the order in which the W/C components should be.

Pump -> [CPU/GPU/Radiator] -> res ->pump. (The items in [] can really be in any order, but the res should feed the pump.)

Now, to protect the blocks from particulate suspended in the coolant isn't really neccessary. They are pretty tough. If I were concerned about saving a component from that stuff, it would be either the pump itself, or the rad, or both. But I would be far more concerned about the pump. This is due to it being the only (wet) moving part in the loop and it grinding up the metal/paint/whatever flakes would do the most damage to the entire loop. This would mean the filter should be before the pump in order to clean the coolant. Here is the caveat: Having a restrictive part just before the inlet of the pump will negatively affect the ability of your loop to cool the hardware, and this defeats the whole purpose of this project. I will provide links to back up this statement, should you desire.

On the other hand, you could rinse out the blocks, rad, tubing, and res in the kitchen sink before installing them.

After looking in some manuals of WC kits to get a basic idea, I decided on the following:-

Pump outlet --> CPU inlet
CPU outlet --> GPU1 inlet
GPU1 outlet --> GPU2 inlet
GPU2 outlet --> Radiator inlet
Radiator outlet --> Reservoir inlet
Reservoir outlet --> Pump inlet

Conumdrum · Feb 5, 2008

Yea, that's an absolutely normal idea. Res then pump, then wherever the hoses fit best.

You need more than 10 clamps.....

Xerran · Feb 5, 2008

Conumdrum said:
Yea, that's an absolutely normal idea. Res then pump, then wherever the hoses fit best.

You need more than 10 clamps.....

I know you think I came up short on the clamps but the Swiftech Reservoir comes with 2 plastic barbs and 2 plastic clamps. Do you think I should get metal barbs and worm-drive clamps for the reservoir?

Conumdrum · Feb 5, 2008

The plastic clamps aren't as good as is the plastic barbs. But lotta peeps use em. As long as the res is in the 'non-drip zone' you should be okay.

Xerran · Feb 5, 2008

Conumdrum said:
The plastic clamps aren't as good as is the plastic barbs. But lotta peeps use em. As long as the res is in the 'non-drip zone' you should be okay.

I can use 1/2 metal barbs with Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir though right?

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