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questions regarding bleeding a loop.

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omniskillz

Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2002
Location
philly pa
i've msg voigts and got some insight but i have more questions.

i went with the black ice extreme iii. 59.99.

swiftech mcp655-b pump 69.95

fuzion cpu block with fuzion 1/2 high flow barbs 66.95

Breeze Miniature Hose Clamp 7/16 in. to 25/32 in. 20 for 7.20

KwikCut SS100 Stainless Steel Tube Cutter - Yellow
to cut the tubes

Tygon R3603 1/2in. ID 11/16in. OD Laboratory Tubing 8ft worth 18.00 bux

swiftec mcres micro for 17 bux

Danger Den Solid Brass Tubing Plug 1.99
to plug the t-line.

Black Nylon 1/2in. Barbed Equal Tee Fitting 1.35
to make t-line.


now i was told to fill the reservoir, turn the pump on for a sec, turn it off. fill some more, turn on, repeat til the loop is full.
and to take out all the air bubbles.
i will have the watercooling just sitting on my table, no case. do i just tilt the radiator back and forth? and check tubing to see no air bubbles? is that it?

thanks :)
 
When the pump is pumping, you will see bubbles moving in the tubing. When there are no bubbles, you won't be able to tell the water is moving in the loop without looking at the res/tee-line.

I'm going to assume you're going to have it on the table because you're running your rig without a case. Leak testing without it being in the position it will be in when installed is useless, you have to leak test when the loop is installed in your case and blocks mounted. Again, assuming you're running caseless.
 
When the pump is pumping, you will see bubbles moving in the tubing. When there are no bubbles, you won't be able to tell the water is moving in the loop without looking at the res/tee-line.

I'm going to assume you're going to have it on the table because you're running your rig without a case. Leak testing without it being in the position it will be in when installed is useless, you have to leak test when the loop is installed in your case and blocks mounted. Again, assuming you're running caseless.

yeah i will be running caseless. i have been for awhile using a tec cooler on the cpu :p decided to try water cooling with a new computer i am making.
so basically run it til i see no bubbles or see water moving :)
 
I find mine eventually bleeds it self.

I had a res with a divider that prevnets bubbles of air being sucked back into the pump...
 
I find mine eventually bleeds it self.

I had a res with a divider that prevnets bubbles of air being sucked back into the pump...


Even if there was no divider it would still bleed out, that just speeds it up drastically.

Yeah, in essence, fill the loop and run it until the bubbles are out. For good measure, shake the rad after all the bubbles look to be out, bubbles can get stuck in the inside. I never had this happen to me but I hear it a lot.

Elluzion: The FuZion goes for cheaper than $66 pretty much everywhere ($59 at PTS and Sidewinder, among others I believe). Guess I was wrong, the raised the prices :(
 
Yeah took about a day to bleed. I got dual loop and I cant shake my rad firmly attached to the MM U2UFO.

The swiftec microres has the little divider thing so air doesnt get sucked back into the pump...

Not sure how long it takes if you just got a T-line...
 
Mine do the major bleed in about an hour, sometimes less. Full bleeding (getting all the micro-bubbles out) takes a couple of hours at a minimum and a day or more sometimes, depending on your pump, loop components, and coolant mixture.

If you've got the MCP655 "Vario" turn it down to P3 to fill most of the loop and get the BIG bubbles out, then crank it up to P5 to get the rest of them out. Pinching the tubing off & on in short bursts will sometimes help in problem areas like the rad.

I've never used a res - just a 3/4" T-line. With proper placement I think it's as good or better than a res since it takes up less room and (IMO) is easier to fill. One foot of 3/4" tubing holds about half what a MicroRes holds - my T's are ~16" long, about 2/3 the capacity of a MicroRes. The external T's use a rubber stopper for a cap, internal ones are connected to a Delrin fillport using a short piece of 1/2" x 3/4" OD tubing inside the 3/4" tube as a bushing ...
 
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That's another thing I forgot to touch on. If you can vary your pump's speed, turn it all the way down. This slows down the speed of the water in the loop and the bubbles will be able to escape faster.

My loop did bleed out ready to use in under the time it takes me to mount blocks. Let's say it bled out in around... 2 minutes to be usable. There were microbubbles that worked their way out in a few hours. This was with the Swiftech Micro-Res. When I was using a small hardware store t-line (not the 3/4" one QuietIce mentioned, which is MUCH better), it took maybe 8-9 hours to bleed out.
 
That's another thing I forgot to touch on. If you can vary your pump's speed, turn it all the way down. This slows down the speed of the water in the loop and the bubbles will be able to escape faster.

My loop did bleed out ready to use in under the time it takes me to mount blocks. Let's say it bled out in around... 2 minutes to be usable. There were microbubbles that worked their way out in a few hours. This was with the Swiftech Micro-Res. When I was using a small hardware store t-line (not the 3/4" one QuietIce mentioned, which is MUCH better), it took maybe 8-9 hours to bleed out.

well i have everything now. sadly i didnt get any distilled water. will get it tomorrow after work. and being my journey into watercooling.

also the radiator im using is black ice xtreme 3 and the pump is one speed i believe :)
 
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