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Pedantic
01-29-08, 11:01 PM
Hello OCF,

I'm afraid I may have destroyed my Q6600 (G0). I know the risks associated with adjusting clocks, and am prepared to deal with the results. I try to learn on my own as much as I can; though I did read quite a bit beforehand -- it apparently was not enough.

I have had my setup a few weeks. I ran it stock for a while, until I was prepared to attempt an overclock. I reached about 2940mhz with the processor, with the stock 9x multiplier at a FSB of about 325mhz.

After observing load temperatures (one instance of Prime95 "blend", as well as one "small" for each of the four cores), I decided once I reached 71C (Intel's limit to the G0 stepping) that I was unsatisfied though it was stable so far.

"I did not use the thermal paste correctly," was my conclusion. Which is true; I applied AS5 on the heatsink as well as the CPU. It was also spread unevenly.

Since I was going to reapply the TIM, I decided I may as well try my hands at lapping the surface of the die heatspreader. The Rosewill heatsink's surface was already smooth as could be. I probably did not do a perfect job (which lapping requires, however is besides the point), since after rebooting, the core's temperatures were about the same.

Then, I figured since I just reapplied the AS5 as TIM, I may as well burn it in. I only knew of the concept at the conception of the idea, but learned recently it requires lowering the voltage. (Some may argue this is feckless; however, I wanted to see for myself. I also learned it may not actually have anything to do with the TIM, although it does change characteristics under alternating heat and cold conditions -- Correct me if I'm wrong about that, for the AS5 paste.)

For those unfamiliar with what I am talking about, I'll skim the surface of the burn process: Lower the core voltage after a fresh installation, in small increments, using stress tests to confirm stability. Once instability occurs, raise the voltage to the previous stable level. Run the stress test(s) for an extended period of time, and repeat until desired.

If you can see where I'm getting, this (supposedly) allows you to end up with lower voltages for stock FSB speeds, which translates to a higher overclock potential, or generally less power usage. It seemed like good logic to me; and I was ready to give it a shot.

Only to be shot down. With the only software (that I know of) to lower voltages unavailable -- Clockgen -- I resorted to my own flawed logic.

If I lower the multiplier, I could use less voltage. If I raise the FSB to match stock speeds, maybe it could essentially be the same as lowering the voltage - while achieving stock clock speeds - without the option to do so in the BIOS (or through software).

Well, I can see where that went wrong. I should have lowered the multiplier, checked if I was correct in thinking that the CPU used less volts at a lower clock speed, and then proceeded to up the FSB to a level teeter-tottering on stable (again by stress-testing), then checked the voltage at that point to see if I could essentially pull off under-poweing the CPU without a software/BIOS option.

The motherboard I'm using has a feature in which it detects failed overclock attempts on the fourth failure to boot. However, I am receiving a grim outlook..

I installed as well, an optional bracket in an expansion slot, which uses a system of four red or green LEDs to communicate 16 possible processes on the motherboard.

The system won't POST. The message I get from the LED signal is, quoted from my mainboard manual: "System power on. The D-LED will hang here if the processor is damaged or not installed properly."

Gulp.

I assume the rash sudden increase in FSB (1066 stock at 9x, as opposed to 1600 at x6) toasted something. If I were to get a new processor, I'd like it to be one using 45nm technology, in which case I'd have to flash the BIOS, which I couldn't do without a processor to begin with (I have no friends with the same motherboard to swap ROM chips [if that's even possible on my motherboard, I haven't checked], and I don't even trust myself to do that).

Is it possible to save my mainboard, or CPU?

I should also mention this is my first build. Whoops..

jmsanders2
01-29-08, 11:08 PM
What is your motherboard? I would try clearing the cmos and thus moving back to the default bios. This should set everything back to stock and try posting from there.

devsain
01-29-08, 11:23 PM
this doesnt make sence to me, i was able to do this on stock volts and not have a problem and even then when i pushed it to far all i had to do was restart my bios... try removing your bios battery and putting it back in make sure the computer is off when doing this.

and yeah what is your mother board?

Pedantic
01-29-08, 11:24 PM
My configuration of components is as follows:
MSI P6N Platinum (650i chipset)
Corsair XMS 800mhz DDR2 memory (two GB)
Intel Q6600 G0* (Rosewill heatsink)
MSI Nvidia 8600GT (256MB DDR3, 128bit pipeline)
Silverstone 500w power supply
Two 92mm intake fans and a single 120mm exhaust (Antec SOLO case), as well as an small fan sitting on the Northbridge, right under the heatsink on my video card

Forgot to add that, sorry.

I'm currently thumbing through my motherboard manual. I remember reading about clearing the CMOS but I can't recall for sure how to do so, since it didn't apply at the time. What is an example of a way to clear the CMOS data?

edit: I will try removing the battery if I cannot figure out how else to 'reset' it.

Shiggity
01-29-08, 11:31 PM
Clearing / Resetting the CMOS (bios) should make it work again. Sorry I can't be of more help on doing that, but that will most likely solve your problem.

(I'm spoiled because the abit IP35PRO has a little switch on the back that clears the CMOS for you =D)

Do searches based on your mobo and "CMOS" or "BIOS RESET" or something along those lines and you should be able to find what you need.

jmsanders2
01-29-08, 11:50 PM
it should have it in the manual, a quick google search didn't lead me anywhere. my abit has a 3 pin 'switch' in a corner that clears the cmos when you switch the two pin jumper position. i would think yours would have something like this. mine also has a cmos reset switch on the back of the computer. removing the battery would be my last option imo.

Pedantic
01-29-08, 11:54 PM
I found it. There is a button next to the battery that resets the CMOS. I'm glad it's as simple as that! I was bracing for the worst.

I'm appreciative for all your prompt assistance!

WarriorII
01-29-08, 11:55 PM
There should be a jumper close to the battery, I would guess it is that one to reset.

I should show in the manual too, if not also a picture / diagram of where it is located on the mobo.

jason4207
01-30-08, 01:03 PM
I believe your logic about reducing the multi, and raising the FSB to adjust voltage is faulty. I've never heard of the MoBo responding in that way. I feel your attempts to OC using that MoBo and a quad will not be indicative of what most of us on here can do w/ a quad. I just don't think that MoBo has the juice to get the FSB up very high w/ a quad.

Are you saying the MoBo doesn't have any options to adjust CPU voltage? I'm sure your CPU is fine. At stock voltages, and only 400FSB I can't see you having fried it. Not sure about the Mobo, though.

Did the reset CMOS thing allow you to POST?

pascalbrown
01-30-08, 01:08 PM
This may sound elementary, but have you unplugged it from the wall socket for 10 mins?

terran2k
01-30-08, 03:19 PM
what heatsink do you have?

glockjs
01-30-08, 05:08 PM
This may sound elementary, but have you unplugged it from the wall socket for 10 mins?

the cmos works off of battery so that wouldnt work at all x.O and would suck if it worked that way everytime there was a power outtage or when you unplugged ur puter just to move it :D

looks like op fixed his prob btw