Tubing & Fitting Sizes Sound Off

I know I made a mess of the first thread, sorry.

Lets try this again.

Please sound off on the tubing & fitting sizes in your loops. Also, tell us about your clamps. What you think are the most secure and why.

Thanks in advance

1/2" thin-walled Tygon w/SmartCoils - a PITA to install but nothing takes bends w/out kinks like this combination! I use stock Swiftech 1/2" "plastic" barbs for the blocks and 1/2" copper pipe fittings everywhere else, 3/4" copper for the "T". I've used and tested a variety of clamps.

Easiest to get are screw clamp from the auto-parts store assuming they carry good ones, which have brass screws! Other excellent clamps are McMaster smooth-wall screw clamps (or whatever they're called). The bands are slotted like a normal screw clamp but the slot doesn't go all the way through, leaving a smooth wall on the tubing side of the clamp. I avoid cheap screw clamps like the plague!

I've also used the thin, flat variety of spring clamps. They work very well if you get the right size. Others have use the rounded spring clamps, which (IMO) really need the right set of pliers to put on correctly and safely. But they're also very good, secure clamps

For experimental loops that run < a month I've used the stock black plastic clamps that come with most blocks. They work fine if you're careful about how you put them on and use pliers to tighten them. They would probably last much longer than a month, I've seen others using them for extended periods w/out problems. However, if you're fiddling inside your case you may accidentally disconnect one if it's not tightened correctly. It's not easy to do but some people are kinda' forceful inside their case, even if they shouldn't be ...

You may find this interesting: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=469114

Many people use 3/4" copper plumbing ells too. I find the plastic to be easier to work with. The beige, thin wall CPVC pipe available in most hardware/home improvement stores works well. The standard, white PVC fittings are a little to bulky.

Hi

7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing on 1/2" barbs.

I use 1/2" barbs on everything. Of course, the barbs are always different. In my up and coming loop, my CPU, GPU and Res will have Swiftech High-Flow 1/2" barbs (G1/4" thread), my Thermochill Rad has similar barbs, and my pump has standard 1/2" plastic barbs. I'm going to be using 7/16" MasterKleer tubing. It's cheaper, easier to route, puts less torque on blocks (possibly less chances on leaks if I screw up). I don't use clamps when I use 7/16" tubing, it is very snug and I've never had any leaks (only time I've ever had leaks was when I was using 1/2"x3/4" Clearflex60 and didn't tighten the clamps down enough). That said, using clamps can't hurt at all. I use standard $.60 worm drive clamps from home depot, but the best clamps out there are smooth-band worm-drive clamps. QuietIce explained them prior to my post.

Previously I was using primoflex which is nice tubing. Right now I'm using some Masterklear as I'm transitioning cases yet again (yes there will be a build thread at some point ).

My tubing is 1/2" with 1/8" wall and I'm using clamps from the 99¢ store.

I've used both 1/2" and 3/8" and preferred the later for the better turn radius. Although as I hear 7/16" is where its at. I remember Cathar advocating it a while back. I prefer to use tygon when possible but I've used some cheap home depot stuff before in a jam and had a pleasant experience with it.

As far as clamps go I've done it all. Zip ties, worm clamps, and none at all. I don't recommend the last option. For the most secure and easy to remove worm clamps win hands down. But zip ties work fine and are cheaper than dirt. I got some UV ones a while back and have been using those.

i WILL use ClearFelx 60 1/2"ID 3/4"OD with wrom clamps.

Plasmah said:

7/16" ID (5/8" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing on 1/2" barbs.

Click to expand...

Ditto. Easy to bend around corners, meaning less tubing is required. Smart coils eliminate the kinks. With no performance difference from 1/2" tubing, there's no sense in making it more difficult to setup, and risking leaks since the 7/16" seals better around the barb.

The clamps from Mcmaster being referred to are the "Type 430 Stainless Steel Nonperforated Worm-Drive Hose and Tube Clamps". They are the best metal clamps, and are worth every cent.

For my last loop reworking, I went with double "Nylon Snap-Grip Hose and Tube Clamps" from Mcmaster. They hold like there is no tomorrow, and are black which is why I chose them.

I use all 1/2" fittings, and about to change out all barbs to the Bitspower barbs. Frozen CPU and performance-pcs has them, and danger den as well, but DD calls them FB fittings. They have a retainer for the o-ring so that you can't as easily overstretch it, and have a very large ID. If any of you hasn't taken a look at them, do.

For tubing, I currently am using mostly 1/2" flexible copper with some 1/2"ID 5/8"OD black vinyl tubing (to match the copper which is painted black).

For tubing I'm using the cheapest PVC tubing you can find in hardware store. Anything happens to them I can just go buy more at almost no cost.
They are 12.5mm ID (1/2") and 5/8" OD so fairly thin walled. Using CoolSleeves625 on any bends. For the tightest bend I use a combination of hot water on tubing and CoolSleeves to bend into shape then chill them.
Barbs are mixture of mostly DD Hi-flow, two DD perfect seal (PITA) and two D-tek from FuZion block
For clamps I just bought a few pack of 12-16mm worm drive clamp from hardware store. Again, extremely cheap.

I don't see how any worm drive clamp and metal barb combo can leak honestly. Just make sure the width of your clamp's screw-bit doesn't exceed what the barb allows.

voigts: copper? I missed that. You have a thread/link?

I beleive it's in his other build thread, near the end: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=476159

Tygon 3603 1/2" x 3/4" tubing

Bitspower compression fittings for that tygon, all fittings(no barbs)

SS worm drive Hose clamps for the D5 pumps only. (because I hate the plastic clamps)

Absolutely no leakage from these fittings, which honestly impressed me. Recessed orings, good looking, easy to put together but a bit of a hassle to take apart after tightening on hose. Maybe I'm going to tight, prolly so. 1" in diameter when all together, so wont fit all items because of closeness of holes. Must have a flat surface for oring to seal properly. If hole is countersunk (like on some blocks or res's) then wont seal properly or you have to use a fatter oring. Fatter oring is only way to use these on Apogee GTX because of top fins.