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cool res?

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boorishid

Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2008
Does an acrylic drivebay res disapate heat very well? i have an antec900 and ithink the fans would cool a drivebay res very well, not to sure about acrylic as a heat disapation material. I was also thinking about the resonator with a fan on it, i know adding aluminium to your loop causes corrsion ill just use some anti freeze so i would appreciate it if no adviseded against the resonator becuase of the material, also some ov my blocks will stay aluminium and copper so no matter what the loop wont be pure copper.
 
An acrylic res of any kind won't dissipate heat. That is why waterblocks are made out of copper as copper does dissipate heat very well. Putting fans on it won't make any difference. And stay away from bay reservoirs- get a Swiftech Microres.

Using a single rad with a built in res area and then adding a thermochill makes no sense to me. Use a t-line or a microres, and then add your thermochill, or just go with dual or triple Swiftech rad.
 
No i was talking about like an aluminuim res with a fan on it. Im trying to get my cpu about as cool as it can get on water, i live in the sesert in so cal and it gets like 115 in the summer usually only keep the ac at 78 so im thinking im gonna get a dtek block with a thermochill three fan since both of those are hands down winners but i would really like to keep the res at the lowest possible temp too so i was thinking using that single rad/res passivly my keep my loop alot closer to ambient than a normal res, im even thinking about brazing copper hard lines for the loop. Im working about seventy hours a week at the moment and the cost isnt the issue. The only reson i dont want to use a phase changer is becuase frankly im a lil paranoid about insulating the board and im sure it will drive my power bill way up, and lastly if my thinking is correct the phase changer my not fit a new socket type when one comes out.
 
A reservoir no matter what's it made of ain't gonna transfer enough heat to make any significant difference in temp. You'll need to add another radiator. I keep my house about 80 degrees F in the summer and I have no problem with my watercooling system.
 
Zalman made a res with fins and it could disipate heat...

I have seen a res made out of large copper tubes and I bet that could disipate heat...

I consider a bong to be a collective res and it could disipate heat...

But your not going to get very far with acrylic...
 
One thing I have learned about WC'ing, building the large setups I have built, is this.

It doesn't matter if you have a res or not. Its main purposes are:
1 - easy removal of air in the loop
2 - ease of filling IF its positioned for that in the case
3 - steady input of water to the pump for ease of startup

It doesn't matter how much water is in your loop as long as your loop is full. You can have a loop that holds a gallon or 1 that holds a quart, the amount is irrelevent. Once your water gets heat saturated to the cooling ability of your radiator with fans, passive res, bong or what have you, you will then know how well you water setup is cooling. Adding fans to other parts of the loop nets you a minimal decrease of temp, say 1 to 2 degrees C, IF your lucky. Adding a second rad to the loop will be pretty much the same.

The radiator (or whatever you choose) is the most important cooling object in the loop for lowering the water temp. The Thermochill's are supposed to be the best as far as rads go, but also the most expensive I believe. People try all kinds of ways to cool the water, but in the end its the heat saturation point and the radiators cooling ability that determine how cool the water will be.
 
The price of thermochill is shocking... for that kinda money can you buy a small car rad. which would have more surface area and hold more water...
 
wouldnt using a small car rad be a bad idea? i mean arent thermochills and other wc rads set up for maximum pressure?
 
Does an acrylic drivebay res disapate heat very well?

The passive aluminium reservoir is one option I suppose, but the first post was asking about bay reservoirs. Besides, as was already pointed out, aluminum is not good to have in the loop.
 
Ehhh I dont think we are on the same page...

Do you think less restricive means .... water travels though the rad better...??
 
The only effective way of cooling with only a res is to get a very large one. The heat dissipation on a small res is pretty much nil. Also the Reserator is more akin to a home heating radiator than a real res.
 
I think if you have a very large res it kinda acts as a heat sink...

ie if the res was the size of a swimming pool you would never need a rad...
 
When thermochill say its less restrictive.... they meant its less restrictive air flow wise so you can use a quiet low speed fan and still get air movin though the rad.

They NEVER mention that its less restricive water flow wise.
 
When thermochill say its less restrictive.... they meant its less restrictive air flow wise so you can use a quiet low speed fan and still get air movin though the rad.

They NEVER mention that its less restricive water flow wise.

Sorry Myco, take a look at: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=77260&highlight=challenge

"Pressure Drop - flow set at 4lpm at pump, pressure measured after radiator. % loss shown - smaller the loss, better the head pressure... listed best to worst.

Least Pressure Drop...
ThermoChill PA120.3 - 6%
Watercool HTFX3-x - 14%
HWLabs BlackIce GT360 - 17%
HWLabs BlackIce GT360 XFlow - 17%
HWLabs BlackIce Xtreme - 17%
HWLabs BlackIce Xtreme XFlow - 17%
Watercool HTSF - 17%
Cooltek MCR320 - 18%
NexXxos Xtreme - 23%
NexXxos Pro - 27%
...highest Pressure Drop

As you can see, you could theoretically run TWO Thermochill rads, and still have better head pressure than if you were using a SINGLE rad of any other brand."
 
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