My First Watercooling Loop

[Navig]

Hi all,

So I've finally taken the plunge to try out some watercooling. Purchased a number of components (mostly used) to get my feet wet (hmm maybe not the phrase I was looking for).


Please take a good look at things, and mention any recommendations!



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/navig/Watercooling%20Frame/Firstloopparts.jpg



Parts list:

Blocks: Swiftech Apogee GT 1/2" barbs
Swiftech MCW60 1/2" barbs

Rads: 2x Swiftech MCR220 QP

Pump: Laing DDC with a Petra's Techshop top

Tubing: I've got some new Masterkleer 1/2" ID 3/4" OD, but for now I'm going to use some used something smaller tube, I presume 7/16" ID 5/8" OD tubing.

Additive: PT nuke, going into some CVS distilled water

Res: EK 250 resevoir

Clamps: Worm drive clamps

Danger Den Fillport

Case: My custom Lubic frame last seen here. (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=398882)


navig

[Navig]

And here is my first loop!



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/navig/Watercooling%20Frame/Firstlooptesting1.jpg




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/navig/Watercooling%20Frame/Firstlooptesting2.jpg




The first thing I've got say is:

1) Worm clamps are really bulky, may have to switch to the ratched clips
2) Pump does vibrate a bit, will definitely need to find a dampening solution.




For the immediate future, this is going to cool a G0 q6600 used primarily for folding, on a IP-35E. It is currently being cooled by an IFX-14, so we'll obviously do a little performance comparison.

This is NOT meant in any way to be a final or aesthetic mod (you could probably infer that by the fact that I've got masking tape all over my radiator). This is purely a starting experiment for a novice watercooler like me. This is a prelude to my next scratch built mod, last kicked about here. (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=545574)

[Th3 F4ll3n P1mp]

Dang, all I can say is NICE LOOP! Also, nice case.

[baditude_df]

That's going to be a cool setup. Nice!

Herbie clips: http://www.petrastechshop.com/tubing.html
Gel Goo (this stuff is awesome!): http://www.petrastechshop.com/pegviabbl.html

Are you on team32? It is the best team you know. hehe

[SkiBum1207]

that looks sweet! had to tell from the pics but maybe shorten some of the tubing legnths, some of them look a little long, remember that the less tubing the better!

[Sarsbaby]

Congrats on making quite a unique PC. I'm really getting interested in building a case. Maybe you just motivated me to do so.

Don't worry, i'm not a copy-cat.

My only suggestion would be to move the Rad so it's lower than your Res. At least until the air is bled out properly. And is the painters tape on the Rad temporary?

[Sndm3mny]

wow that just gave me a great idea on what to do with my case....mmmm

[Navig]

Will putting the res above the radiator aid in bubble removal at this point (leak tested for nearly 24 hours)? I could probably work it pretty easily. Not many bubbles going around now tho.


Now this is actually not the "case" (I use the term liberally) that will end up being watercooled. I've had this Lubic frame in its current form since 2005. I just wanted to make a first experimental attempt at building a loop. Setting up the hardware, getting a feel for distances and tube radius, and also checking out the performance.

That's why the painter's tape is on there, no point in scratching up my radiator while its still just in a experimental loop.


navig

[phil178821]

very nice.. should really perform :). as for bleeding..

making your reservoir (or t-line if you go that route) the highest point in the system will make bleeding the easiest. that is one of the great things about reservoirs, they are much easier to place at the highest point then it is for a t-line. well either, open the cap when its at the highest point and if you have vario pump, turn that guy on medium low, and jostle the case away. should go pretty quick.

tlines take longer to bleed. i use one and i still had air hiding in my rad 15 hrs later.. every couple of hours i would just go and invert my rad, the air would come out and i'd say about half would go up the tline and the rest would zip by. with a res, you dont have to worry about the zipping by part, just about all should exit.

[phil178821]

reading through above again i see you said you are going with the small tubing, the 7/16 vs the 1/2" at this point in time. While 1/2" ID tubing was and still is the staple, 7/16" ID is becoming more and more popular. It is able to make better turns and bends without kinking then the thick 1/2" ID tubing, it has pretty much the same flow as 1/2" ID tubing, and it fits your barbs tighter so less chance of leaking. as for tubing types; i see you have masterkleer, which will definitely do. but, if you have the option, tygon is the best. worth it over masterkleer? from experience, I cannot say for sure, from discussion and research, it is supposed to be. less susceptible to staining, less sweating (Causing coolant evap), and better longevity.

also, not sure what your GPU is that you are throwing the MCW60 on (which are awesome blocks), but if its an 8800 ( i definitely know this with the G80s but not sure for the G92) and you use 3/4" OD tubing, then you will need 2 smaller sinks then the MC8800 gives you for just bellow where the tubing comes into the gpu block. the sinks in that kit are a little tall and cause the tubing to remain up slightly, not allowing the block to mount flush. you can bend the pins on the sinks or by smaller ones. again, i know this for the G80 8800s. figured i'd let you know, i found this out the hard way.

[Navig]

Thanks for all the advice. I do like the 7/16th, I may go with some black Tygon, I'll have to feel out the aesthetics when it comes to me final build.

The MCW60 is just the block. As you can see here (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=539601) I have the handiness and means to put together my heatsink packages. As the fnal build for my planned watercooling is several months off tho, I'm really not sure what components will be going into it.



Well, here is the loop, with the motherboard installed:



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/navig/Watercooling%20Frame/Firstloopinstalled.jpg






Here is the system I replaced:


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/navig/Watercooling%20Frame/Firstloopreplacement.jpg






Comparison:

System: q6600 at 9*360 1.2575v

Air: lapped Thermalright IFX-14, 2x Yate Loons D12SL12, one Yate Loon D12SM12 (75cfms, 33 db, approx 1500rpms)

Water: unlapped Swiftech Apogee GT, as above. Radiators topped with 2x Yate Loon D12SL12 approximately 10v.

Test: Prime95, small FTTs, 3 minutes


IFX-14 (celsius)
Idle 32/28/28/32
Load 57/45/47/57


Water (celsius)
Idle 27/25/27/28
Load 46/43/46/39



Obviously, the water does a good job of thashing the IFX-14, arguably one of the best air coolers. Not only so, it does so at what I would term very soft sound levels (pump is the loudest). The IFX-14 has a medium Yate Loon, humming at semi-quiet levels.


navig

[nicayotte]

Just curious where did you get that case or how did you make it?

[Navig]

This was actually one of my very first attempts at a scratch built case: Link here. (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=398882) Its made from modular components called "Aerocool Lubic" parts. Not made anymore, but you may be able to find some for sale (last I saw knownkiller was selling some).


As sort of a self promotion, this watercooling is going to soon make it into my latest project, what I've been calling my Framer project.

Link here. (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=574299)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v363/navig/Framer%20Project/Lightingtest2.jpg

[Blazing fire]

reading through above again i see you said you are going with the small tubing, the 7/16 vs the 1/2" at this point in time. While 1/2" ID tubing was and still is the staple, 7/16" ID is becoming more and more popular. It is able to make better turns and bends without kinking then the thick 1/2" ID tubing, it has pretty much the same flow as 1/2" ID tubing, and it fits your barbs tighter so less chance of leaking. as for tubing types; i see you have masterkleer, which will definitely do. but, if you have the option, tygon is the best. worth it over masterkleer? from experience, I cannot say for sure, from discussion and research, it is supposed to be. less susceptible to staining, less sweating (Causing coolant evap), and better longevity.

also, not sure what your GPU is that you are throwing the MCW60 on (which are awesome blocks), but if its an 8800 ( i definitely know this with the G80s but not sure for the G92) and you use 3/4" OD tubing, then you will need 2 smaller sinks then the MC8800 gives you for just bellow where the tubing comes into the gpu block. the sinks in that kit are a little tall and cause the tubing to remain up slightly, not allowing the block to mount flush. you can bend the pins on the sinks or by smaller ones. again, i know this for the G80 8800s. figured i'd let you know, i found this out the hard way.

:: Why 7/16” and 3/8" ID Tubing are The Best Choices (http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showpost.php?p=3114991&postcount=5):: (http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showpost.php?p=3114991&postcount=5)

http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showpost.php?p=3114991&postcount=5