Bought A Fridge From Walmart $80

[NovaCX12]

Well, after talking to a buddy. I decided to get a fridge with a small freezer/chiller mounted in the upper right hand corner. The unit is a 1.7cu. ft. The little freezer is about 13" deep, about 4.5" high, and about 7" wide. So my buddy tells me to get the 12x5 radiator from overclockershideout.com and we will place it in the freezer section. Then drill 2 holes for the 2 3/8" Copper Barbs. In sense...it will be rad/hose/90degree/barb. And if i need *extra cooling* i'll run 2 rads cause I can fit 2 of them in there. Any thoughts on this IDEA. Is it a dead end or is it ok? I'll appreciate any ideas/thoughts. Thanks.

[Tiger]

I have been doing some work on this for a few weeks as I am using a fridge as a water chiller. I personally don't think the fridge is going to cope with the heat load. This is because you are trying to cool air. You have a 3 stage exchange here;
1. water/rad
2. rad/air
3. air/evaporator.
You loose efficiency at each stage. You need to reduce the number of stages to reduce in-efficiency.
Have a go and see how you get on.

[NovaCX12]

Originally posted by Tiger
This is because you are trying to cool air.

Air, I thought I was gonna be cooling a liquid? I was thinking of letting the freezer section freeze up around the rad, then turn on the pump before I start overclocking. I don't think you get the picture, or do you but typed a typo?:)

[Tiger]

No typos. Look carefully at what I have stated. In order for the water in the rad to be cooled the heat in the water has to be transferred to the rad metal then from the rad metal to the air then from the air to the evaporator. The greatest in-efficiency occurs in the last stage. There will be some areas of the rads that are in direct contact with the metal of the evaporator and the air phase will be bye-passed.

[Pepsi]

More or less this is what I am doing. My radiator is a coil of 1/4 copper that sits in the cold plate. I have a bottle that holds one gallon. I think your system might work but the temps will go up steady as the little fridge won't be able to ditch all that heat you passing through it. To help keep your temps down insulate the fridge inside and out as well as the lines to and from the computer. What temps are you getting inside your little fridge? I have a thread going that might interest you read Homemade Hoilday Water Cooling possibly it might help you.
Pepsi

[NovaCX12]

waiting on waterblocks, rad, and pump :mad:

[Yodums]

Originally posted by NovaCX12
waiting on waterblocks, rad, and pump :mad:

Your not planning to do this on your Dell rig right?

[f155mph]

Don't waste you $$$ getting a rad from them. Go to autozone and get a heater core. It all copper and it only 18.99 part #399078. Cut the tube off and go to home depot to get a brass barb for it and sweat it on. The core isn't pretty but it get the job done, plus is not like you are going to keep the fridge open. The size of the core is 11.5 x 5.75 x 2.:p

[NovaCX12]

Oh NO!:cool: Sorry..I have some new toys here sitting next to me.

Aopen H600A Tower
Abit ST6
Intel Celery 1.2Ghz

Waiting for:
WaterBlock, Radiator, GF3 Waterblock from www.overclockershidout.com

Pump/Sump, and Inline Thermal Temp Sensor from www.leufkentechnologies.com

Everything else is coming out of the DELL

[ButcherUK]

Originally posted by f155mph
Cut the tube off and go to home depot to get a brass barb for it and sweat it on.

Ok, how exactly do you sweat something onto a heater core? I'm assuming you don't mean you run a lot to get warm and drip some sweat off your brow on it... :p

[f155mph]

Sweating is a plumber term for soldering. Which mean melting solder to join two pieces of pipeing. I guess you dont use that term in the UK.:eh?:

[ButcherUK]

No we call that soldering, oddly enough ;)

[Ice Breaker 489]

there was one site that turned a mini-fridge into a pc...very cold...ideal for ocing they said...

[Ice Breaker 489]

http://www.pcrivals.com/projects/computerator/index.shtml

thats the site with the computer freezer...pretty crazy...no condensation too unless u unplug it

[f155mph]

ButcherUK

Very nice O/C job!!! What are you using for cooling and what is your temp range?

Thanks


:)

[AntmanMike]

Im building a freezer coooler too. No condensation when off, because of the way i cool it. Basically, i freeze the air through the freezer, then duct it into a subcase with the motherboard in it, then right out. THat way, no water. Not even when i turn it off. The main problem is that when the cables come out, it opens the door a bit, and the chiller loses chillyness from that. That is BAD..

[WyrmMaster]

What i would do is ditch the radiator and put a big container for water in the fridge. Then mod the fridge so the cooling coils is inside this tray. Dump the water from your system into this container and pump it out the other side. This would eliminate two stages from the cooling cycleby cooling the water directly from the cooler coil in the fridge, rather than first cooling the air and then blowing the cool air through a radiator.

I dont know how hard it would be to change the location of the coil in the fridge, but I dont think it would be TOO hard.

[ButcherUK]

Originally posted by f155mph
ButcherUK

Very nice O/C job!!! What are you using for cooling and what is your temp range?


My setup is a bit crappy atm, hence the less than stunning temps:
Pump - Eheim 1048, mounted on rubber grommets for vibration reduction.
Rad - modded out Senfu pos (1/2" barbs and shroud trim), 2" duct to fan.
Rad Fan - 235cfm 172mm monster, 24V rated runs at 8-10V on an LM317 and temp sensor. pushes a good amount of air, feels like about 80 cfm but hard to say without a meter, quiet.
Block - homemade copper cross drilled small block (about 1.25" square), 1/4" BSPT barbs bored out to 9mmØ, 4 5mmØ channels in block. Mounted with an epoxied on Al frame with 4 bolts mounting using springs for 37lb clamping force. AS2 goop used, block is mirror lapped.
HDD block - 1-6-1 mm sandwich block with 20mm wide channels. 10mm tube flattened at one end and soldered into block, 3/8" BSPT barb fitted over end and soldered on (3/8" is an almost perfect 10mm bore).
Al junction box res for filling/bleeding.
Coolant - 31:32 Deionised water with 1:32 water wetter.

Temps are 36C idle, 42C load, 26C water with ambient at about 20C.

[mx]

Originally posted by NovaCX12
Well, after talking to a buddy. I decided to get a fridge with a small freezer/chiller mounted in the upper right hand corner. The unit is a 1.7cu. ft. The little freezer is about 13" deep, about 4.5" high, and about 7" wide. So my buddy tells me to get the 12x5 radiator from overclockershideout.com and we will place it in the freezer section. Then drill 2 holes for the 2 3/8" Copper Barbs. In sense...it will be rad/hose/90degree/barb. And if i need *extra cooling* i'll run 2 rads cause I can fit 2 of them in there. Any thoughts on this IDEA. Is it a dead end or is it ok? I'll appreciate any ideas/thoughts. Thanks.


I agree with Wyrmaster......submerge the freezer coil inside a large container of coolant and then submerge your radiator coil in that.

:burn:

[NovaCX12]

Ok, so since I already have the rad coming, i gotta make some box to fit the rad right? then fill it with water/coolant/watterwetter? and put the submersible pump in it? What mixture of *stuff* do i want to do? Im pretty sure it will be below freezing temps. Thanks.

[NovaCX12]

Ok, another idea, what if i get two of those portable blue ice blocks and sandwich the radiator in the freezer/chiller section and prefreeze them before I start cycling the water? Will this help the situtaion of the refrigerator cope with keeping the water cool?

[Ohdannnyboy]

I have been using a freezer (about 50' away--in my garage) and cool 4 gals of water-antifreeze (prestone 50-50). Aquarium pump runs 24-7 whether I use the computer or not. the plastic plumbing tubes are both insulated thru my hot attic and down my office wall -out into case and finally to the CPU. Direct water is directed onto the die which I conformally coated but leaving the metal surface bare. I simply "Marine Goop"ed a 2" plastic pipe cap to the CPU. Water in freezer is 25F but picks up a lot of heat in the attic. Reaches the case entry in SUMMER at avg of 39F in WINTER (AR) it is sometimes 20-25F when it reaches the CPU. Celeron 600 @ 950 adds only about +3F to the liquid.
I thought I would have condensation problems, but solved them with vasoline and used bee's wax to coat EVERY possible surface around the ZIF socket and also insulated (Foam) the back of the Slotket which runs on a Slot 1 MB. I have used this system for 2 years as my only computer. Just a week ago I upgraded to a new MB TUSL2-C and a Celeron 1200 which I have a 1611 with a retail Fan and HS. But I surfaced the HS and heat spreader and used Artic Silver II. Did not have to do the voltage VID wireing Mod. in order to boot at 133FSB. But I did have to upgrade to the 1010 BIOS and set the voltage to 1.675.
At present I may stick with the Air and free up my freezer for more BEEF. These .13 Tualatin Celerons DO run fast.
4524 CPU MIPS in SiSoft Sandra and I didn't even have Ram set to CAS 2 yet.
Good luck on the cool water idea----I can be made to work, but really is a lot of trouble since you can never move your case around.....can't even take it to a repair shop!!

ohdannnboy,

[mx]

Originally posted by NovaCX12
Ok, so since I already have the rad coming, i gotta make some box to fit the rad right? then fill it with water/coolant/watterwetter? and put the submersible pump in it? What mixture of *stuff* do i want to do? Im pretty sure it will be below freezing temps. Thanks.

I would use at least %30 antifreeze, anything less could be a disaster if it freezes and you also may want to add some water wetter to compensate for the antifreeze......good luck!:cool:

[Ohdannnyboy]

MX,

I had to use half and half water and prestone and even then the water vapor will collect at the top of the 4 gal. plastic tank that is inside my freezer. Yours may not get that cold --- mine is a large upright freezer that has a larger compressor capacity that a small refrigerator would have.
There are MANY problems that have to be worked out with this sort of system. One is you must have a way to tell if the coolant is still circulating (and not frozen up and stopped). I use a small digital indoor/outdoor temp (from wal mart-$15) to keep tabs on the incoming cool water temp. If it raises I know that the water is not coming!! Keeping air out is another problem. On and On.
It really is not worth all that effort, but it does really make a chip that is a good one fly.
Luck,
Ohdannnyboy