Re-do watercooling. help

[Elluzion]

Ok well i have been out of it for a while, had my rig up about 4 months ago, then it was having problems from a re-cable thing I did and finally figured it out.

Well i have the black tygon tubing, but I can't tell if their is 100% water in it and it makes me nervous.. I wanna re-do mine so i can use clear tubing and possibly use no bends.

I have about 8 90 degree bends, is that bad at all?

Also when i first did my watercooling, i had the pump before the reservoir, so I wanna do it right the next time.

ALso what kind of tubing? i don't want to spend that much, and i want something that isn't TOO hard to put on the barbs of the pump especially i think i had 7/16 and it was a bitch to put on the pump and rad


Thanks for your help guys!!!


also i need a little retouch on how to set up the rig, also how do I get the water out of my current stuff? and what solutions, ex: iodine etc....

[Ben333]

90 degree fittings cause a lot of back pressure. Just bend the hose and if you can't maybe try replacing those 90s with pairs of 45s or copper 90s. Copper 90s have less restriction.

[Perseus]

There's a price to be paid for using 90's but it won't kill your flow automatically. It depends on how many you use and how much pumping pressure you apply to them. Download the flow estimator from here and tell us what you think:

MartinsFlowRateEstimator.html (http://www.martinsliquidlab.com/MartinsFlowRateEstimator.html)

I've got one 90 and a T (both Delrin using HF metal barbs) and my loop works great. I think this would still be true if I slapped in a couple of more 90's.

[Elluzion]

Yeah i am going to try not to use an 90 degrees in my next rebuild. What kind of tubing to get? also how do I drain/ re-fill my loop in the future?

[QuietIce]

What is it you have now? Can you link to another thread that lists existing hardware or something? MasterKleer tubing (available at Petra's) is a good, economical choice. If you want to go with 1/2" I assume you have an MCP-655 pump???

That's a very good pump for most loops but a LOT of elbows can slow things down a bit. Standard copper elbows are much less restrictive than plastic ones and with 1/2" tubing is not too hard to put on - much easier if the elbows have 1/2" copper nipples. Sweeping curves with a 3"+ radius are even better if space allows. With 8x 1/2" copper elbows you basically add an Apogee water block to your loop. Using 8x plastic elbows with 10mm barbs adds ~2x that much at 1 GPM and ~2.3x at 1.5 GPM. If you're going to use elbows switch to copper FTW! :)

Typical loop order is res/T-line -> pump then whatever makes the shortest loop with the fewest bends.

To drain a loop I take the lowest component and pull it out of the case over a large bowl, then just disconnect one of the clamps and let it drain. For your re-fill coolant I like distilled water, a few drops of iodine-based antiseptic (8 drops/gallon for regular iodine, 4 drops/gallon for Betadine), and some algaecide for ponds/aquariums (use as directed on package label - they vary a lot). Get a copper-based algaecide if you have a choice.


Good luck on your re-build - it's always easier the second time around ...! :)

[saxile]

at www.sidewindercomputers.com they carry the tubing made by the same people as tygon just without the brand name for about 50c a foot, it's the best buy imho, and no different the tygon brand name. Elbows can hurt the flow rate, but if your pump has enough head they won''t hurt you that much, I run 4 of em myself.

[Nebulous]

at www.sidewindercomputers.com they carry the tubing made by the same people as tygon just without the brand name for about 50c a foot, it's the best buy imho, and no different the tygon brand name. Elbows can hurt the flow rate, but if your pump has enough head they won''t hurt you that much, I run 4 of em myself.

Nice deal! I might just have to pick up a few feet of this stuff :)

Back on topic:

I just finished redoing my wc setup. I don't use any bends. If you're gonna use 90 deg. bends, then I advise using a maximum of 2 in the entire system. Using 8 will definately kill the pump because of back pressure unless you're using an Iwaki pump. The tubing will bend, just try not to get it to kink.

QI is right on the mark :thup:

[Elluzion]

What is it you have now? Can you link to another thread that lists existing hardware or something? MasterKleer tubing (available at Petra's) is a good, economical choice. If you want to go with 1/2" I assume you have an MCP-655 pump???

That's a very good pump for most loops but a LOT of elbows can slow things down a bit. Standard copper elbows are much less restrictive than plastic ones and with 1/2" tubing is not too hard to put on - much easier if the elbows have 1/2" copper nipples. Sweeping curves with a 3"+ radius are even better if space allows. With 8x 1/2" copper elbows you basically add an Apogee water block to your loop. Using 8x plastic elbows with 10mm barbs adds ~2x that much at 1 GPM and ~2.3x at 1.5 GPM. If you're going to use elbows switch to copper FTW! :)

Typical loop order is res/T-line -> pump then whatever makes the shortest loop with the fewest bends.

To drain a loop I take the lowest component and pull it out of the case over a large bowl, then just disconnect one of the clamps and let it drain. For your re-fill coolant I like distilled water, a few drops of iodine-based antiseptic (8 drops/gallon for regular iodine, 4 drops/gallon for Betadine), and some algaecide for ponds/aquariums (use as directed on package label - they vary a lot). Get a copper-based algaecide if you have a choice.


Good luck on your re-build - it's always easier the second time around ...! :)

Very helpful.

My parts list/currently what I have:

THIS IS COOLING MY Q6600 CPU:

-Dtek Fuzion
-Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir
-Swiftech MCR-320 Radiator
-Tygon R-3400 7/16" ID 9/16" OD - UV Resistant black Tubing
-Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller


I want tubing that will bend easily without bunching up, i do have a full tower case, maybe i will post pictures to try and get a better view to figure out how to set it up...

also will the 1/2'' tubing fit better ?? because it was a pain in the asss to put over the pump and every other component. Also what can I use for clamps that will still be stylish???

would this tubing work: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1id5o.htmlhttp://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1id5o.html

do i want 1/2in. ID x 5/8in. OD or 1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD?


THANKS FOR THAT LINK SAXILE!

[QuietIce]

Very helpful.

My parts list/currently what I have:

THIS IS COOLING MY Q6600 CPU:

-Dtek Fuzion
-Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Hi-Flo Reservoir
-Swiftech MCR-320 Radiator
-Tygon R-3400 7/16" ID 9/16" OD - UV Resistant black Tubing
-Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller


I want tubing that will bend easily without bunching up, i do have a full tower case, maybe i will post pictures to try and get a better view to figure out how to set it up...

also will the 1/2'' tubing fit better ?? because it was a pain in the asss to put over the pump and every other component. Also what can I use for clamps that will still be stylish???

would this tubing work: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1id5o.htmlhttp://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu1id5o.html

do i want 1/2in. ID x 5/8in. OD or 1/2in. ID x 3/4in. OD?


THANKS FOR THAT LINK SAXILE! 1/2" tubing fits MUCH better onto almost everything. It's still a little tough getting on the MCP-655 but I'd rather deal with that than a leaky connection! :)

Personally, I like 1/2" ID - 5/8" OD tubing for inside the case but you almost have to use SmartCoils (or CoolSleeves) to stiffen up the curves. It's more work but you can make very tight bends with the SmartCoils and still avoid kinks.


Clamps come in a huge variety but common stainless steel screw clamps are the most cost efficient, just trim the ends if you want it looking a little cleaner. Get the screw clamps from the auto parts store and make sure they're the good ones with brass screws. Some of those hardware store clamps are just junk.

>A little nicer screw clamps are the non-perforated clamps at McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/). They're smooth on the inside so the clamp doesn't mess up the tubing. (p.249)
>Rounded spring clamps are also very good clamps. They are often silver and look slick but I wouldn't use them without getting the special pliers needed to install them safely. (p.255)
>I've also used flat spring clamps but they can be a little tricky to install. They are clean looking and clamp very well but finding them thin enough for most barb connections is a problem. Since I often use copper nipples that's not an issue for me. (p.252)
>Band & buckle is also a possibility but are kind of a pain to install inside a case. The tensioner you need to use on those are kinda' big. (p.258)

I'm sure there are others I'm forgetting but these are the ones I've tried and all work very well if they fit your situation.


As a side note, since you're re-building your loop anyway I would suggest getting the Quad nozzle for Fuzion if you don't already have it. I use a home-made one but the principle is still the same and they really do increase cooling performance ... :)

[saxile]

get the thickest they make imho, the thin stuff kinks real easy where it's so gummy, that stuff also strechs a mile so you won't have no problems getting it on anything, my dual headed iwaki has 5/8 barbs and the 1/2 goes on fairly easy with twisting it on.

[Elluzion]

1/2" tubing fits MUCH better onto almost everything. It's still a little tough getting on the MCP-655 but I'd rather deal with that than a leaky connection! :)

Personally, I like 1/2" ID - 5/8" OD tubing for inside the case but you almost have to use SmartCoils (or CoolSleeves) to stiffen up the curves. It's more work but you can make very tight bends with the SmartCoils and still avoid kinks.


Clamps come in a huge variety but common stainless steel screw clamps are the most cost efficient, just trim the ends if you want it looking a little cleaner. Get the screw clamps from the auto parts store and make sure they're the good ones with brass screws. Some of those hardware store clamps are just junk.

>A little nicer screw clamps are the non-perforated clamps at McMaster-Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com/). They're smooth on the inside so the clamp doesn't mess up the tubing. (p.249)
>Rounded spring clamps are also very good clamps. They are often silver and look slick but I wouldn't use them without getting the special pliers needed to install them safely. (p.255)
>I've also used flat spring clamps but they can be a little tricky to install. They are clean looking and clamp very well but finding them thin enough for most barb connections is a problem. Since I often use copper nipples that's not an issue for me. (p.252)
>Band & buckle is also a possibility but are kind of a pain to install inside a case. The tensioner you need to use on those are kinda' big. (p.258)

I'm sure there are others I'm forgetting but these are the ones I've tried and all work very well if they fit your situation.


As a side note, since you're re-building your loop anyway I would suggest getting the Quad nozzle for Fuzion if you don't already have it. I use a home-made one but the principle is still the same and they really do increase cooling performance ... :)

1/2 5/8 sounds goood. What is the Quad nozzle? link pls. I will probably use the screw clamps in the end, but i will look into the other ones that you showed me... Thanks

[QuietIce]

1/2 5/8 sounds goood. What is the Quad nozzle? link pls. It's one of several nozzles in the accelerator kit. I'd just pick one up whenever you order soemthing else - most sites with WC parts have them:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfuacnokit.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dtfunoackit.html

[Elluzion]

It's one of several nozzles in the accelerator kit. I'd just pick one up whenever you order soemthing else - most sites with WC parts have them:

http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfuacnokit.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dtfunoackit.html

Thanks for that link man :D

yeah i gotta start workin on this looop. :D

[Elluzion]

Ok so for WHAT to add to the water, it is distilled water correct? and then what to add?

Water + Iodine? + Algecide? + UV Reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue) ? or PT nuke?

would that be ok? how much of each

for my current water cooling i did a few drops of iodine and a capfull of algecide. I wanted a UV blue color to my loop so would the Pentosin G11 be a good match to add to it also?

also would 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing work fine for fitting over everything easily?


if i got that ^ i could get this too: http://jab-tech.com/PrimoChill-Anti-Kink-Coils-3-4-UV-Blue-pr-3988.html


Thanks!

[saxile]

the iodine is algecide ;) I suggest you get the tubing from sidewindercomputers.com tho, they carry the nonbranded tygon for about 50c. I usually just use primochill dye bombs for colour myself, never had one gunk up blocks yet.

[QuietIce]

Ok so for WHAT to add to the water, it is distilled water correct? and then what to add?

Water + Iodine? + Algecide? + UV Reactive Pentosin G11 Coolant Additive (Blue) ? or PT nuke?

would that be ok? how much of each

for my current water cooling i did a few drops of iodine and a capfull of algecide. I wanted a UV blue color to my loop so would the Pentosin G11 be a good match to add to it also?

also would 1/2" ID (3/4" OD) Masterkleer General Purpose Clear PVC Tubing work fine for fitting over everything easily?


if i got that ^ i could get this too: http://jab-tech.com/PrimoChill-Anti-Kink-Coils-3-4-UV-Blue-pr-3988.html


Thanks! Looks good! Additives are on the mark as is. If you use G11 as a coloring agent make sure it's no more than 10%. But I think I'd take saxile's advise and get a GOOD coloring agent instead of anti-freeze. Adding anti-freeze to a loop reduces the heat transfer capacity ...

[saxile]

yeah, only time antifreeze is needed is if you're mixing metals, other than that it will result in higher temps

[Elluzion]

the iodine is algecide ;) I suggest you get the tubing from sidewindercomputers.com tho, they carry the nonbranded tygon for about 50c. I usually just use primochill dye bombs for colour myself, never had one gunk up blocks yet.

haha oh ok well i will just use the fish tank algecide then, cap full. Yeah well sidewinder is out of the kind of tubing i need for the nonbrand tygon! I was about to buy it too and then it went out of stock so I am thinking of getting masterkleer or clearflex... Whats a good color dye thats priced well at either sidewinder , jab-tech, or petrastechshop?

k i will drop the G11 because yeah I don't need it slowing my loop down/ lowering the heat transfer etc,,

so the primochill dye bomb would be best if i want color correct? http://jab-tech.com/Primochill-PC-Ice-With-UV-Blue-Dye-Bomb-pr-3540.html

[saxile]

I've always had good luck with primochill products, even the liquid utopia, which is biocide, pump lub, and other things, 1 tube is enough for 1 gallon of water and I would pick up two or three dye bombs if you gonna mix in a gallon jug (cheap enough) but if you inject the bomb into the loop direct 1 is enough, very powerful.

[Elluzion]

I've always had good luck with primochill products, even the liquid utopia, which is biocide, pump lub, and other things, 1 tube is enough for 1 gallon of water and I would pick up two or three dye bombs if you gonna mix in a gallon jug (cheap enough) but if you inject the bomb into the loop direct 1 is enough, very powerful.

i think im gonna go with the
Primochill Liquid Utopia - UV Blue , its $10 and it should be powerful enough to protect my loop and give me the blue i want.

Thanks

[saxile]

don't get the invis blue, just get the normal uv blue btw, the invis blue is very faint, and you'll be happy with the liquid utopia, you don't need to add anything else into the loop besides that.

[Elluzion]

don't get the invis blue, just get the normal uv blue btw, the invis blue is very faint, and you'll be happy with the liquid utopia, you don't need to add anything else into the loop besides that.

yeah the one that i just posted is UV blue, not invisible.

THANKS

[saxile]

Some pics will be thanks enough, gotta love pics

[Elluzion]

here is what I ordered from jab-tech guys:
PrimoChill Anti-Kink Coils 3/4"- UV Blue
ClearFLEX 60 Tubing 1/2" ID / 3/4" OD
D-Tek FuZion Accelerator Nozzle Kit
Plastic Tubing Clamps - Blue Large Size (F)
Primochill Liquid Utopia - Steel Blue

so I am going to take my loop apart soon and then get it ready for the new stuff coming in..

For taking off thermal paste of off my cpu, do i use isoproponal ? what %

Thanks