WaterSetup *STRICTLY FOR GPU* Only

[Dj Spiel]

EDIT: UPDATE

Well I started @ 7pm and now it's 5:49am Chicago,IL Central Time.I am dead tired..after customizing it so I could mount the radiator on top of the case...diggin in my back closest for some FANS 120MM size. Then hookin the loop up wrong on 1st try then after I fixed that the radiator was leaking due to the barb connector -fixed that. So Now...I have to find out how to get rid of these tiny little bubbles My PUMP is way to strong and I should have gotton a bigger reservoir.

here are the stats as of now--Mind you it's about 80 degrees in my basement and humid as hell.
http://www.djspiel.com/stats.jpg











Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Reservoir

Swiftech MCR220-QP Dual 120mm Radiator Black

Swiftech MCP655 Water Pump

PrimoFlex UV Green 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Tubing

This look ok?


8800 GTS (G92)
*will add another in about 4-6 months


-already purchased-
Swiftech MCW60-R VGA

[saxile]

How many gpu and which gpu?

[Dj Spiel]

Crap my fault!

[phil178821]

did u edit your original post because oyur follow up makes no sense to me . :)

all looks good. remember you need ram, mosfet, and an i/o sinks for your card.

i would go with tygon tubing. last longer, less likely to stain, easier to bend.

i would consider a t-line over a reservoir, but thats more of a personal preference.

if you stick with one vga, then i would just go for a thermochill pa 120.1 rad. if you go with sli liek you said you might, i would go with the pa 120.2 rad. the thermochills are the best rads out there, however, the swiftech like you chose are still good performers.

dont forget fans. i would go with around 100 cfm fans and a fan controller. if you go with a thermochill rad, i would go with 70ish cfm fans. yate loons are great fans.

[Dj Spiel]

haha! yeah man I edited it :) hey man thanks alot for help also.

-Spiel


~~~Watercooling~~~
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Reservoir
Swiftech MCR220-QP Dual 120mm Radiator Black
Swiftech MCP655 Water Pump
Tygon tubing 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Tubing -Edit: how mant feet should I buy?-

Do I need anything else guys? Fittings.. Oh crap! coolant..What do you recommended?

****
Unfortunately I have already committed to the bottom as I have charged it on my credit card already


Video Card Crap**
MSI NX8800GTS 512M OC GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512M
Swiftech MC14 Copper Heatsinks (2) orders
Arctic Silver ASTA-7G (2-PC-SET) Premium Silver Thermal Adhesive *1 order*
Swiftech MC21 Mosfet Heatsinks (2) orders
Swiftech MCW60-R VGA Waterblock (already comes with barbs) *1 order*

[saxile]

ok, that edit helps a bit Dj, next time it happens I'll have to get my stick! :santa: yep, everything is just peachy there, but as phil suggested ram/pwm sinks are a must. Don't go tygon, not worth the price, go with the nonbranded tygon that www.sidewindercomputers.com sells, same stuff yet only costs .60 compaired to almost 3 dollars...

edit: Coolant wise, distilled water with biocide is only thing needed, if color is wanted I suggest primochill dye bombs, liquid utopia is also very handy, just inject and run, contains biocide and pump lube.

edit2: Tubing suggestion http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dupvctu7id5o.html easier to route than 1/2, I would buy at least 10 feet, just to have extra just in case you screw up, hell at the price go for 20'
rad fittings: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/dthiflfi1bst.html

[Dj Spiel]

Funny thing^^ I just put Tygon (lol) it was actually

ClearFlex 60 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Tubing - Identical to Tygon.
Price: $1.60 per foot



ok, perhaps you guys can school me..this is where I get confused and frustrated. I tried google and some other sites. None talked about barbs/tube sizes. How can 7/16in. ID 5/8in work with something like a Swiftech MCP655 Water Pump (½" barb fittings (fits 1/2 ID tubing) Arent you suppose to match the sizes up? I am kinda all new to this...but i have been reading alot.

Swiftech MCR220-QP Dual 120mm Radiator Black and selecting Barbs for this 1/4-3/8 vs
1/4 1/2

I need to find something that talks about barbs ....or maybe u guys can explain. Sorry for being a pain!

[phil178821]

agree about the coolant.
if its true, agree about the tubing
agree about tubing diameter, 7/16" is becoming, if it isnt already, more popular than 1/2" ID

be weary of the arctic silver thermal adhesive. once those sinks are on, they will not come off; a warning if you have to rma your card and reattach the stock cooler. i personally prefer a thermal tape. sidewinder sells akasa tape thats cheap and works great.

i would think that the swiftech rads do, but verify they also include barbs.

clamps, there are worm drive and herbie clips. use whichever you like; the worm drive are more reliable in that herbies can slip off in time and moving. if you go with 7/16" ID tubing you will already have a pretty reliable, tight fit with the 1/2" barbs.

[Dj Spiel]

Hmm..well I can go ahead and pick up that thermal tape. ^^ Even though it's a tight fit I am still going to need clamps/clips :)

[phil178821]

reason a lot of people like the 7/16" ID tubing is because of the tight fit you get over the 1/2" barbs. 7/16 is very close 1/2, however, it will offer a mode snug fit on those 1/2" barbs giving you less risk of leaking.

some do have trouble squeezing the tubing over 1/2" barbs, however, i have never heard of someone never being able to get it. most people will soak the tubing in hot water so its softer, then force it over the barbs.

[phil178821]

some do not use clamps with 7/16" tubing since it is that tight fit. others will use zip ties. personally, i would send the extra money on clamps since its not worth the leak, but its up to you. you can buy herbies, which are cheap; then do you build and if you dont want um, dont use them. :)

[saxile]

eh, I used thermal epoxy on my ramsinks and a slight twist and they easily popped off. I suggest thermal tape at any rate too. Durelene tubing is made by Saint-Gobain, which also make tygon, same stuff, you're just paying for the brand name on the Tygon. Swiftech rads DO NOT include barbs so they are a must. If you use 7/16 tubing you need no clamps, zip ties work wonders on those. On to the question about pairing sizes, this tubing streches a mile, I can fit 7/16 over my pump which is 5/8 barbs with ease, can even fit 3/8 over it with a bit more effort.

[Dj Spiel]

ADDED:
Durelene PVC tubing 7/16in. ID 5/8in. OD by Saint-Gobain
DTek High Flow Fittings 1/4in BSPP thread to 1/2in ID Hose Barb *QUANTITY 2*

^^^^
Alright guys am i ready?



~~~Watercooling~~~
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Reservoir
Swiftech MCR220-QP Dual 120mm Radiator Black
Swiftech MCP655 Water Pump
Tygon tubing 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD Tubing -Edit: how mant feet should I buy?-

Do I need anything else guys? Fittings.. Oh crap! coolant..What do you recommended?

****
Unfortunately I have already committed to the bottom as I have charged it on my credit card already


Video Card Crap**
MSI NX8800GTS 512M OC GeForce 8800GTS (G92) 512M
Swiftech MC14 Copper Heatsinks (2) orders
Arctic Silver ASTA-7G (2-PC-SET) Premium Silver Thermal Adhesive *1 order*
Swiftech MC21 Mosfet Heatsinks (2) orders
Swiftech MCW60-R VGA Waterblock (already comes with barbs) *1 order*

[saxile]

looks good to me Dj, soak that puppy down!

[Dj Spiel]

*s l-l 1 t


**lol** I wanna get all this by Friday so i can get my g33k on this weekend :)

[saxile]

Just a bit of info, sidewinder is FAST, ordered something Sat via USPS Express, had it Early Sun morning!

[Perseus]

Don't go tygon, not worth the price, go with the nonbranded tygon that sells, same stuff yet only costs .60 compaired to almost 3 dollars...

Don't get me wrong saxile, if saving a few bucks is important, that's fine, but the product discription clearly states that this stuff is NOT the same as 3603. My personal opinion when it come to tubing is this: $35 for 10 feet of tubing every year or so is nothing if it buys my some peace of mind. Even a simple mix like distilled and biocide (not to mention dye of any sort) becomes a fairly toxic brew after a few million circuits.

[phil178821]

Just a bit of info, sidewinder is FAST, ordered something Sat via USPS Express, had it Early Sun morning!


USPS delivers on sunday?

[Dj Spiel]

Which brings me to my next question....I read that UV Dye focks the waterpump and tubes up. Thoughts?

[Perseus]

Which brings me to my next question....I read that UV Dye focks the waterpump and tubes up. Thoughts?

:) That depends on what you mean by "focks". It can stain into the wall of your tube, giving it a permanent tint. Chemicals in your loop can catalyze\combine into unanticipated things and become toxic. Reactions like this can make tubing brittle, and you know what that could mean. :eek: This is why it's good to flush regularly no matter what you use.

[Dj Spiel]

Hmm..... i was on some fourms and some dude used dye and like 2 weeks later his pump broke.

[saxile]

depends on the dye, some have heavier pigments than others, I've been using primochill dye bombs and it has not stained my tubing at all, nor any gunk build up on any parts as some dyes can.

[Dj Spiel]

I just bought some DYE from primochill along with some liquid utopia

[Dj Spiel]

Total: $190.98

For all the watercooling parts!

Tubing,Fittings,Coils,Dye and other crap

[saxile]

with the liquid utopia you don't add anything else to lines other than the dye, and stuff works great, should't have to worry about changing water for long while.

[Dj Spiel]

EDIT:

Does this seem right?
http://www.djspiel.com/SETUPh2o.JPG








Since I am not running any sort of "LOOP"

How am i routing my setup?

Radiator/PUMP/GPU BLOCK ? ? ?

What order do I do this crap.

[saxile]

Don't get me wrong saxile, if saving a few bucks is important, that's fine, but the product discription clearly states that this stuff is NOT the same as 3603. My personal opinion when it come to tubing is this: $35 for 10 feet of tubing every year or so is nothing if it buys my some peace of mind. Even a simple mix like distilled and biocide (not to mention dye of any sort) becomes a fairly toxic brew after a few million circuits.

Only difference according to spec sheets of both, plus I have both with me, is the Durelene is a bit harder than Tygon, but still just as gummy in my opinion.

[saxile]

I always go pump, rad, blocks and it is a loop btw, ends aren't open ;)

[Perseus]

Only difference according to spec sheets of both, plus I have both with me, is the Durelene is a bit harder than Tygon, but still just as gummy in my opinion.

It can't be both harder and as gummy 3603. That's a contradiction in terms as well as design.

[Conumdrum]

Only thing is the fill mechanism has to be right before the pump. Besides that the shortest smartest loop is all that matters.

[Dj Spiel]

Like this?


http://www.djspiel.com/SETUPh2o.JPG

[Conumdrum]

Yep.

Nice drawing, neato, but warped. I like it.

[Dj Spiel]

ahahha!! thanks man. :)

[saxile]

It can't be both harder and as gummy 3603. That's a contradiction in terms as well as design.

I mean according to specs it's harder, but to me just feeling it it feels just as gummy, should have been more clear in my message, was sitting in doctor's office when I was typing, sorry.

[Perseus]

I mean according to specs it's harder, but to me just feeling it it feels just as gummy, should have been more clear in my message, was sitting in doctor's office when I was typing, sorry.

No problem, saxile. You know you're cool with me! :D

[Dj Spiel]

wooo!! cant wait! all parts should be here tomM!

[Perseus]

Dude, I know just how you feel, and on a Friday too??? :D

[Dj Spiel]

yeah entire weekend!!! the best man! ahah

[Perseus]

And to you, Dj. Good luck on the refit! :thup:

[maxspam]

if you haven't already
I would go from pump to rad to block to res. back to pump that way its sucking from the res pushing through the rad then right to the block that would make the most sense IMOHO

[Dj Spiel]

Can u draw it up for me in mspaint please?

[maxspam]

so the pump sucks the water from the res. for the least ammount of resistance then pushes it through the rad. to cool off the water then it goes straight to the block with the cold water then out the block and into the res. to cool off a little bit then down to the pump. if you had the pump pushing the water through the res. it would build up pressure and get rid of the chanse for the air to escape the loop. it would also have to push the water through more stuff and reduce flow rate instead of letting gravity let the water "fall" out of the res down the tube to the pump.

pardon my grammar and or spelling :beer:

[g14novak]

maxspam has the right idea.

If you run the loop like he has it set up, their will be less turbulent water and thus better flow through the block and other components. You want to have the pump as close after the block as possible. That way, after the water gets pushed through the pump, it has time to calm down as it goes through the rad and gets to the block.

[maxspam]

with my limited knowledge of water cooling i succeeded in helping someone:clap:

[Dj Spiel]

IM READY!!!

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/new%20watercooling/IMG_0535.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/new%20watercooling/IMG_0547.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/new%20watercooling/IMG_0550.jpg


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/new%20watercooling/IMG_0551.jpg


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/new%20watercooling/IMG_0553.jpg


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/new%20watercooling/IMG_0554.jpg


here's what my Pc looks like now


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/new%20watercooling/IMG_0558.jpg

[Perseus]

Yup, that it! :beer:

[maxspam]

is that last pic of it done? or a previous setup? :beer:

[Perseus]

with my limited knowledge of water cooling i succeeded in helping someone:clap:

Actually, and I hate to deflate you, but a loop doesn't work quite that way. After combined restriction is taken into account flow is constant. Component placement isn't really all that important. Your loop will reach a thermal equilibrium based on the surface area of your rad and how well, or poorly it's blown. For all of this to work your pump needs to move 1GPM or better.

[maxspam]

I would think it would take more effort for the pump to push through the res. before the rad rather than the watter being pulled or "falling" down into the pump from the res.

[Dj Spiel]

hmmm-so should I stick with my orignal method?

[Perseus]

It depends on res, but in general, no. A res does present some restriction, but not all that much. Remember that intake and exhaust barbs are very likely the same size, and also what I said about restriction/flow being constant across a loop, not something that ebbs and flows.

[maxspam]

i think it depends what kind of res you have if you have one with a airbubble in it or if its sealed tight mirite?

ex: if you have a res similar to this http://images.devshed.com/dh/stories/BayRes/bay_res_sm2.jpg and you have it mounted vertically water in is at the top and water out at the bottom and there is a small air gap like .5 of a inch across the top so that the top barb is half under the water or not under at all that would mean that *click* oh i just realized that perseus is right the res would just fill up with water doh*

but from a thermal standpoint i think that if the water came from pump to rad to block it would make the water coldest for the block. the water wouldent be "warmed" at all in the res before hitting the block

[Perseus]

There's only one way to mount a bayres, unless you REALLY want to do things differently. ;) You're right, having all heat sources upstream of your rad, and your rad exhausting into your first block will yield better temps, this is the way MY loop is configured, but the difference isn't going to be as much as you seem to think. In fact, from what I understand, the pay off will be about 1c on the plus side, which is nothing in the scheme of things.

I suggest going for tube runs that are as short as feasibly possible, popping for a powerful pump(s), selecting good blocks and using a big rad with high static pressure fans. With a rig like this the little things really don't matter.

And yeah, the res will just fill with coolant, which will just as quickly be sucked out. :D

[maxspam]

i know the yields will be nil i already knew that but he was like what should i do so i thought i would contribute the best way that i know of to do things IMOHO :D

[Perseus]

Contribute all you want, dude. I'd never try to stop you. My response was designed to indicate that your perspective was incorrect as I understood it.

[Dj Spiel]

all done guys---still gotta work out some small kinds tho

[Perseus]

Geez, that was fast! :D Is your rig pretty much what you thought it would be? Temps? Looks?

[Dj Spiel]

http://www.djspiel.com/gputemps.JPG



http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/IMG_0580.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/IMG_0578.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/IMG_0577.jpg


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/IMG_0576.jpg


http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/IMG_0575.jpg

http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g49/DjSpiel/IMG_0571.jpg

[maxspam]

lookin good gotta work on that pump mounting/placement tho.:D

[Dj Spiel]

haha-yeah i know :p

[phil178821]

kinda of hard to tell, but it looks liek ou have a lot of extra tubing in there. either way, your temps look great; maybe some more tidying tho? :) good job

[Dj Spiel]

taking more pics tonight-battery charging

[maxspam]

:D