Res solutions

[Ninth]

This thread has two purposes. For one, For those of us who hate the concept of spending 35+ on a hunk of acryllic, how did you solve the problem in your solution? This could be as simple as a tline or as complex as a hommade res, post pictures if available, I'm working on some sort of soltion myself and ideas would be welcome.

Secondly, a random little question. Assuming one is building a system with the rad at the top of the loop, against the top of the case, and I was to eliminate the res and stock in a fill line leading to the tube going froom the rad (top of case) to pump (bottom), the fill line leading up to a fillport in the top of the case. Would that work? My fluid mechanics say it would, but there's nothing like an actual test, and I can imagine there might be something I don't know about >< (lots, morelike)

Thanks for any help/ideas.

[gsrcrxsi]

i solved it by buying a swiftech microres. 20 bucks.

[Rickpatbrown]

+1 swiftech micro res.

I don't understand your second question. Please restate.

[voigts]

This thread has two purposes. For one, For those of us who hate the concept of spending 35+ on a hunk of acryllic, how did you solve the problem in your solution? This could be as simple as a tline or as complex as a hommade res, post pictures if available, I'm working on some sort of soltion myself and ideas would be welcome.

Secondly, a random little question. Assuming one is building a system with the rad at the top of the loop, against the top of the case, and I was to eliminate the res and stock in a fill line leading to the tube going froom the rad (top of case) to pump (bottom), the fill line leading up to a fillport in the top of the case. Would that work? My fluid mechanics say it would, but there's nothing like an actual test, and I can imagine there might be something I don't know about >< (lots, morelike)

Thanks for any help/ideas.

What you are talking about is using a T-line. Yes, they work, but the way you are describing it, it won't work well. The T needs to come out of the top of the T and not out of the side since air rises vertically a whole lot easier than horizontally and then vertically. Normally people put the T line on the pump inlet so that the pump doesn't run dry when filling, and this way the line leads vertically up.

As for res, I personally make my own. Although the Swiftech microres and EK reservoirs are pretty good, they are limited in design. This current res Dennis at Danger Den laser cut the round end pieces for me and laser etched the front piece. I used only cast acrylic, and Tap Plastics solvent to weld it together. I designed the res, and it works very well. The inside divider is spaced about 1/4" away from the front, so the water has to go the full length from rear to front and back to the rear which drives the air bubbles nicely toward the bleed area at the top which leads to the fillport. I also wanted it to be a design element and complement the look of the case.

For what most people spend on 1 res, I got the materials to make 3 like this one. If I go through the trouble to get stuff to make a res, I figure I may as well get enough to make a few in case I make changes later or run into issues while putting one together.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/voigts/CustomWoodCaseIII/6feb08/res2.jpg

This is how it mounts.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/voigts/CustomWoodCaseIII/03mar08/resBack.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/voigts/CustomWoodCaseIII/Final_16Apr08/Front1.jpg

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y167/voigts/CustomWoodCaseIII/Final_16Apr08/LightsFront.jpg

[Mycobacteria]

Your work just keeps getting better and better voigts....

I also made my own acrylic res a while back, its not that difficult.

http://img388.imageshack.us/img388/5619/96457798mg9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/5073/53321304cd2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[voigts]

Your work just keeps getting better and better voigts....

I also made my own acrylic res a while back, its not that difficult.

are you still using that huge res Myco?

[billb]

Here's some ideas.......

[Ninth]

voig, I think you misunderstood my tline question. It was simply, would a Tline work with the fillpoint for the tline being barely higher than the top of the loop. I know air moves up :P

Also, that's an absolutely -beautiful- case. I hate to classify it like this, but it has a very steampunk feel about it, which I've never seen anything like.

Considering making my own res, what are some good sealants for the acryllic?

[Ben333]

Voigts, that case looks AWESOME!!

-
I use a T line or a home made res. Sometimes a container with hose holes in the top, sometimes something of PVC or something of acrylic. Its not that hard to build a good looking one if you take the time ;) Good luck!

[QuietIce]

You don't have to worry about the fill-point being higher than the rest of the loop - the water won't spill out.

For a couple of rigs I run one side of my T through the back of the case and secure it there with a pipe clamp. This side feeds the pump, which is located internally on the bottom of the case. The 3/4" 'T' part of it then goes up the back of the case and is secured at the top then topped off with a rubber cork stopper ... :)

[voigts]

voig, I think you misunderstood my tline question. It was simply, would a Tline work with the fillpoint for the tline being barely higher than the top of the loop. I know air moves up :P

Also, that's an absolutely -beautiful- case. I hate to classify it like this, but it has a very steampunk feel about it, which I've never seen anything like.

Considering making my own res, what are some good sealants for the acryllic?

A t-line will work no matter where you place it as long as the part where the bubbles should go faces up vertically. Normally that would be the part going to the fillport.

I made the case after an antique furniture/radio theme. Quietice knows plenty about that!

As far as making your own res, the solvent of choice is IPS Weld On #3, or Tap Plastics Acrylic cement (http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=130&PHPSESSID=200806250846241886628571). You have to have joint without any gaps in order to have good welds. That is why it is a lot easier to use cylindrical acrylic and just solvent weld on ends. Square reservoirs require very square pieces of acrylic in order to solvent weld well. The solvent weld is like water so the joints have to be right.

It takes some doing to get used to working with acrylic to know how to make it work for you. I made and messed up several reservoirs before getting the hang of it.

You don't have to worry about the fill-point being higher than the rest of the loop - the water won't spill out.

If the fillport is below for instance a top mounted radiator, yes water is going to gush out of it. You can't defeat gravity. As long as the fillport is at least level or slightly above the highest part of the loop, you will be fine.

[QuietIce]

If the fillport is below for instance a top mounted radiator, yes water is going to gush out of it. You can't defeat gravity. As long as the fillport is at least level or slightly above the highest part of the loop, you will be fine. Non-sequitur!


We must mis-communicating and I apologize ahead of time if we are.

Fill a sink full of water, submerge a glass completely in the water, keeping it completely submerged turn the glass upside-down, then pull it up out of the water. Gravity is no match for a 60-mile tall column of air - atmospheric pressure on the water in the sink (and glass) will keep the water from spilling out. The water will stay in the glass and becomes quite heavy if it's a big glass. When the rim clears the water level of the sink the water will rush out because the pressure is allowed to equalize.


The same holds true for our closed loops. The water will not come rushing out of the fill port even with a top mounted radiator. I've got two rigs set up just like that with fill ports in the top of the case - the bottom of the rads are ~2" above the top of the case for air flow.

BTW - Bleeding those rigs was not particularly hard, either ... ;)