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View Full Version : Ordered my final WC setup! Am I missing anything?


pood
07-21-08, 06:06 PM
I've been going back and forth between WC and Air, decided I would commit to WC, here's what I bought.

Thermochill PA102.3 + Thermochill PA 120.3 Shroud
Swiftech MCW60-R VGA cooler + MC8800 Kit
D-tek Fuzion V2 + D-tek Fuzion V2 Quad Core Insert
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir
Swiftech MCP655™ 12 VDC Pump
10x Word-drive clamps
Swiftech High-flow fittings 1/2
Tygon 1/2 ID R-3603
PT-Nuke
3x Yate Yoon D12SL-12, low from Petra.

Comes to $510 with shipping.

am I missing anything?

atomic ferret
07-21-08, 06:32 PM
Wish I had $510 to throw at WCing. Looks like you've got everything covered.

pood
07-21-08, 06:41 PM
Wish I had $510 to throw at WCing. Looks like you've got everything covered.

yah, I was kind of surprised I spent that much, I guess I should of gave myself a budget, heh.

Oh, well I'll be set for along time now though.

pood
07-21-08, 06:46 PM
should I get some Pentosin G11 to add to my coolant? only purchased biocide

updawg
07-21-08, 06:47 PM
A good case/psu/and water cooling setup will last longer than any of your actual computer hardware. That should be one sweet setup. Take pictures of your project!

DoubleB
07-21-08, 07:48 PM
You've made good choices there...let her rip!

Spawn-Inc
07-21-08, 08:26 PM
should I get some Pentosin G11 to add to my coolant? only purchased biocide


all i have in my loop, aside from distilled water, is g11. so far its worked out great, then again its not even a month old yet.

Rickpatbrown
07-21-08, 11:55 PM
The best mixture is distilled and a little biocide. PT Nuke is a popular choice. All other additives reduce the cooling capability of water (only slightly though). More so they can goop up your loop.

I had hydrx and distilled in my loop and within a couple of months, there was algae growing in it. Algaecide is necessary in my opinion. I now have distilled with a teaspoon of idodine from the drug store.

Some guys don't have any problems. I think that they just have exceptionally clean loops and they keep them out of the light and they change their water all the time. Or they just don't realize all the crap that's in their loop because it is stuck to the blocks and radiators and not floating around.

Does the 8800 kit include ramsinks or is that just the mounting kit for the block. If it is the (G80) 8800 GTS 640MB, I can show you a picture.

pood
07-22-08, 12:00 AM
The best mixture is distilled and a little biocide. PT Nuke is a popular choice. All other additives reduce the cooling capability of water (only slightly though). More so they can goop up your loop.

I had hydrx and distilled in my loop and within a couple of months, there was algae growing in it. Algaecide is necessary in my opinion. I now have distilled with a teaspoon of idodine from the drug store.

Some guys don't have any problems. I think that they just have exceptionally clean loops and they keep them out of the light and they change their water all the time. Or they just don't realize all the crap that's in their loop because it is stuck to the blocks and radiators and not floating around.

that's what I've been reading, but a lot of people are suggesting anti corrosive additive to the coolant because both blocks are copper.

jkresh
07-22-08, 12:27 AM
pood you don't need an anticorrosive unless you are mixing metals (if everything is copper and brass you are fine, if you have any aliuminum then you need an anti corrosive)

pood
07-22-08, 01:58 AM
what is the thermochill made of?

Conumdrum
07-25-08, 10:16 AM
The TC rads are copper and brass, so no worries.

pood
07-26-08, 04:17 AM
update:

leak testing.

brass barbs wouldn't fit on the CPU and GPU with that tygon tube, so I had to switch to plastic barbs and plastic clamps.

so much for spending all that money on metal barbs.

Nebulous
07-26-08, 06:34 AM
update:

leak testing.

brass barbs wouldn't fit on the CPU and GPU with that tygon tube, so I had to switch to plastic barbs and plastic clamps.

so much for spending all that money on metal barbs.

All you had to do was boil some water and place the tip ( about 2") of the tubing in the water. This will soften the tubing up and it would slide on the metal barbs with ease. You can still do it, just drain the system, swap the barbs, remount and refill. Then leak test.

repilce
07-26-08, 07:33 AM
dont forget to slide your claMps on your hose first or it will be fun pulling them off :D

edit: :P~

Nebulous
07-26-08, 07:41 AM
dont forget to slide your claps on your hose first or it will be fun pulling them off :D

Hmm, I gotta try sliding the "claps" on my hose. I wonder if it'll do any good? :p

pood
07-26-08, 11:46 AM
I can get the tubes on, but there is no room for a 2nd tube + worm clamps.

so, now, I'm using plastic clamps and barb on my GPU
1 plastic barb and 1 brass barb on my CPU, zip ties on the metal barb, plastic clamp on the plastic barb (ran out of the plastic barb)

Sparda
07-26-08, 02:44 PM
I can get the tubes on, but there is no room for a 2nd tube + worm clamps.

so, now, I'm using plastic clamps and barb on my GPU
1 plastic barb and 1 brass barb on my CPU, zip ties on the metal barb, plastic clamp on the plastic barb (ran out of the plastic barb)

Just buy 10 feet of this cheap tube for one loop Masterkleer 7/16 (http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html) and it will on your 1/2 barbs and also the mcw60 and Fuzion.
It is a good tube + dirt cheap.
You dont need any wormclamps any more. All you need is zipties.
But you need a boiling water to make the tube soft to fit on the oversize barbs.