New WC rig, a few questions.

[Kylipso]

So ive bee desinging a new rig for a while now to replace my old
Amd 2200 on a soyo mobo with a radeon 9800 pro gfx card putting down 510 3dmarks in 3dmark 06:)

So far for the WC I have a DD D5 pump ---> MC TDX water block---> BFG tech water cooled Gtx 260--->Bonni heater core with 2 yate moon fans and shroud--->Pump with a T-line between the pump and cpu fed by a fill port/res from DD.

That will be cooling an Intel Q9450 on a EVGA nforce 780i with 8gb Gskill DDR2 800 ram. powered by a ABS Tagan 800w modular psu. all in a Thermaltake armor+ ESA running windows vista ultimate 64bit. phew that was a lot of typing.

I would appreciate any constructive criticism on my rig and WC system. Ive never ran WC before and was inundated with info when I started researching :)
one real main question of mine would be if it would be productive to run an extra rad between the cpu and gpu just because I know the new cards get so damn hot. Thanks!

edit: I forgot to add that its all with 1/2 tubbing and im toying with the idea of all compression fittings or simply the spiral screwdriver clamps from home depot.

[Spawn-Inc]

i would swap out the TDX block out for the Dtek fusion V2 water block. and maybe look into getting a separate water block for the GTX 260, i think its cheaper to get your own block and video card rather than together.

if you do get the Dtek Fusion V2 you will not be able to use compression fittings. you will have to go with worm/gear clamps.

[jr1]

also from what i have been reading around here i would move the t-line to the inlet of the pump
that way it would be t-line ---> pump ---> cpu ---> gpu---> rad ---> t-line
that way you feed the pump first so it wount run dry
as for my selve i went with a swiftec microres just for the ease of bleeding the loop

[Kylipso]

Ah yes the t-line probably should go to the inlet haha that makes way more sense. Ill check out the dtek, I was going to look for a waterblock for the gpu but im kind of worried about installing it myself but I also hear that BFG does a somewhat shoddy job on their wc cards. Im still on the fence for that one.

[jr1]

here is one gpublock i can recomend and it's really easy to install and fits a whole lot of differen cards
http://www.swiftech.com/products/mcw60-R.asp
i think also if you read around here and ask others that knows this better than me you'll find that often it is recomended by them too
here in norway it also came with everything needed to mount it

[QuietIce]

I agree 100% on the MCW-60 video block. Swiftech has been supporting these blocks for over two years making mounting kits when needed for new video cards. They badly need an update for their compatability chart but here's what I could find on the 9800:

The MCW60 in stock configuration is fully compatible with nVidia® 8800GT/GTS (G92), and 9800 GTX series of graphics cards. Optional memory and mosfet cooling is available by using MC14 Ramsinks and MC21 mosfet heatsink, or the new 8800 GT/GTS (G92) or 9800 GTX Mosfet heatsinks.

I also like the D-Tek Fuzion - it did a great job on the OC'ed Q6600.

Cooling a Q and a 9800 with a heater core? Make sure you get Yates D12SH - you'll need 'em ...! ;)

[Kylipso]

do you guys think I should add another rad? like a 120mmx120mm for the gpu?

[jr1]

for myselve i'm running 2 loops
one for cpu and one for gpu
probably a little overkill but that's fine by me
i guess it wouldn't hurt to put in the extra rad . only thing is that it's more expensive
but on the other hand i guess it would make you able to get the noiselevel down a little since you probably could turn down the fans a little instead of running them at max rpm
but again someone with more experience would be able to tell you more about that one since i haven't got any experience with the bonevillerad at all
for the question about compressionfittings or clamps i would go for the clamps
i use only clamps myselve and haven't got one leak so far
this is the ones i'm using http://nettbutikk.bilutstyr.bu.no/TradePoint/CategoryBasic?category=14,100345&categoryName=Slangeklemmer
and of the two types i would recomend the first type of the two
sorry about the language on that page i put it in here just for the images
you'll probably find them on home depo or some store like that
huh became a longer one than i was planning on this here

[QuietIce]

do you guys think I should add another rad? like a 120mmx120mm for the gpu? If you're going to crank up that Q I'd suggest a 120 rad in addition to the HC just so you can quiet the sucker down ...! :)

[Kylipso]

The Q will probably be left stock for a while, I have some OC reading to do before I start messing with the quads :P

[QuietIce]

In that case go with the heater core and add another rad as needed. It's not that big a deal to redo a loop anyway ... :)

[Kylipso]

sweet I should have this think together in a few weeks, as soon as I get all the pieces and parts.

[Spawn-Inc]

pictures please, and get reading on that overclocking. when and if you get winter get your case outside and started cranking up the volts, i hit 4.11GHz.

[Kylipso]

Ok so its been a while since I posted this, I got really busy all the sudden.
So here is the lowdown, using Real Temp my cores are at 37 32 39 39 idle and 45 43 45 47 at load. This is in a hot little room too :) its always about 27c in here. Everything went together with no problems and I even got the Danger Den fill port and res mounted in the coolest place, right behind the ESA module which can be accessed through the sliding door on the top of the case. The rad is at the bottom of the case in a pull configuration pulling through the bottom of the case. I know this hinders performance but im more after quite and clean at the moment. here are some pics! sorry for the dust

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02278.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02281.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02282.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02283.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02284.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02285.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02286.jpg

[Spawn-Inc]

very nice, and clean.

i would buy a Y and put it in place of that T, the way you have it you have a 90 near the pump which will mess with flow rates, though since you don't have all that much in your loop its fine i think.

nice spot, exactly where i put my DD fillport. :)

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/9205/img0466um6.jpg

[Kylipso]

yeah I think ill be changing the setup later anyway, it was a pain to bleed as the bubbles would go straight back to the pump from the rad and avoid the res line.

[Kylipso]

Ok so my water set up has been awesome up till now. The tubes have gotten cloudy and when pinched together become clear telling me that there is some sort of soapy film or something on the inside. Any ideas? Im running feser 1 UV coolant. Im guessing the coolant is breaking down or something?
here are some pictures.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02430.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02435.jpg
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i166/kylipso69/DSC02429.jpg

[Spawn-Inc]

is that tubing clearflex60?

mine did the exact same thing. i used distilled water and pentosin G11 and crap was either growing in there or it was eating at the tubing. but i have also heard that the tubing does that regardless of whats running inside of it.

the first time i took a pipe cleaner and cleaned it out, the second time around it happened again and i did the same thing. since then i switched to just distilled water and pt nuke and so far so good. (3 weeks running)

[Kylipso]

Yeah looks like distilled water and pt nuke are on order for the future, im not to happy about the tubes getting cloudy but at least the temps are great!