thermal probe install

[m4a2t0t]

do i need to cut out a portion of my shim b4 i install my thermal probe?i bought the compunurse

should i cut away some of the plastic around the tip so i can get the probe closer to the core?

[Silversinksam]

You can use plan B:

Drill a hole in the heatsink as close as possible to the core, stick the probe in the heatsinks and seal it all up with arctic Silver adhesive or Alumina adhesive.

IMHO your asking for trouble using a shim and a Compunurse probe...... You would think that the probe would make it lopsided right?

[Hoot]

It's been done before. Yes, you need to expose the tip of the thermistor where it butts up against the core. This is a task you need to perform very carefully so as not to damage the thermistor. I did mine under a stereo microscope with brand new xacto blade. The pictures should help. You can cut a channel through the shim to accomodate the probe.

SilversinkSam, have you tried fitting one of those probes down an HSF hole? They are quite a bit larger than your typical thermocouple wire pair. It would take a hole so large that you would lose too much of the contact surface area for the core.

I am not a big fan of shims either. I see them as one more opportunity to make an error seating the HSF baseplate securely upon the core. They give me the "heebie jeebies". I understand their appeal, I just don't share it.

Anyway, here's those pictures

73, Hoot

[Hoot]

-and-

[m4a2t0t]

i cut the damn thing:D

i cant drill into my waterblock

im really ****ed right now,i thought the sensor the the mobo was bad,gues what NO.fudge me:mad::mad:

im sitting at 39c at idle,i dont want to see what my load temps are,i know people that are air cooled that run cooler:mad:

[Hoot]

Looks like I was too late...
:(

Hoot

[m4a2t0t]

should i throw away da shim?

[m4a2t0t]

hoot,

whats on the tip.

[m4a2t0t]

for the love of god

loaded 46c cpu/29c sys

[Silversinksam]

Hoot, is a compunurse probe roughly the same size as a Digital Doc probe?

Ive used the round bulb probes in the heatsink itself and always filled in the small hole with Arctic silver adhesive.

PS Dont you think if a shim was placed on the cut-down flat probe it would still be lopsided?

http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/attachment.php?s=&postid=442920

[m4a2t0t]

it was lopsided when i checked so that why i cut it

[Oni]

I just did this mod today as a matter of fact. It works great!

Its a little difficult to not kill the probe, but be careful, and use a magnifying glass and you'll get it right.

As for the shim, if you're gunna do this, lose it first, or cut it so the probe will fit w/o displacing or moving the shim at all.

[Hoot]

I hate to tell anyone to throw away the shim, especially if they don't feel confident mounting and unmounting the HSF. After all, that was what the shim was made for. Kind of like training wheels on a first bicycle. If you tossed your shim and them damaged your core, I would feel terrible. You will know when you are ready to get rid of the shim.

46C is not grounds for suicide y'know. A lot of people would be tickled to get 46C. One thing's for sure. If you have the probe nudged up against the core and it says 46C, it's an honest 46C. Pity those who rely upon the insocket thermistor and don't have it implemented correctly. They may be basking in the joy of thinking their CPU is running at one temperature, when, in reality, it is running much hotter. Don't be afraid of the truth. Be grateful.

...sam
Perhape our ideas of what constitutes a "small" hole are different. To me, a "small" hole would be smaller than this o
Most of the epoxy coated thermistors I've seen inside the
ziff socket were at least as big as this O
That is why I usually don't think of fitting a compunurse or digitaldoc probe through a "small" hole. You don't ride the shim on top or bottom of the probe. You cut a channel around it. Shoot, I have a picture on my PC at work of a modified shim, but not here at home. Let me see if I can rough it with mspaint.

Hoot

[m4a2t0t]

thanks hoot ,i'm gonna trow away da shim

the whole reason i went to watercooling was to lower my temps,it did lower my temps but i was expecting too much i guess.

time for peltiers:):)

[Silversinksam]

Hoot,

Your idea of small is the same as mine, keeping the hole just large enough for the probe.

:)

[m4a2t0t]

hoot

whats that on the tip of ur thermistor?,looks like AS grease or adhesive

[Warlord2]

yes he put AS2 or that artic aluminum at the tip to increase the heat transfer

m4a2t0t

thats not a bad temp
what size of pump do you have? in gph?

I see your cooling 2 other chipsets so that could be raising your temp too

[m4a2t0t]

it's about 200gph maybe a little less

i only cool the cpu and north

im not overclocking right now.damn GF went out,stuck with a POS 16mb card

[ButcherUK]

Um to fit the sort of probe you have there we're talking a 2mm hole at most, that's hardly a large hole (I use the hole mounting method - it works great).

[Hoot]

Hoot's feeling pretty silly right now. I need to read more carefully. I did not realize you were getting 46C with water cooling. Unless you PC room is like 40C, I'd say something is wrong with your implementation of your water cooling setup. Before you go off and ponder using Peltiers, you better have a look at your water cooling setup. Can you give us a block diagram and/or pictures to look at?

Oh yeah, the silver stuff on the tip of my probe is AS epoxy. Just a tiny dot to stabilize the thermistor up against the side of the core. Even with Capton holding it down, it will shift a little every now and then from handling it without some kind of adhesive. At least that's been my experience.

73, Hoot

[ButcherUK]

Hey I'm water cooled and can hit 48C on the socket thermistor - that's with ambient around 25C.

[m4a2t0t]

Originally posted by Hoot
Hoot's feeling pretty silly right now. I need to read more carefully. I did not realize you were getting 46C with water cooling. Unless you PC room is like 40C, I'd say something is wrong with your implementation of your water cooling setup. Before you go off and ponder using Peltiers, you better have a look at your water cooling setup. Can you give us a block diagram and/or pictures to look at?

Oh yeah, the silver stuff on the tip of my probe is AS epoxy. Just a tiny dot to stabilize the thermistor up against the side of the core. Even with Capton holding it down, it will shift a little every now and then from handling it without some kind of adhesive. At least that's been my experience.

73, Hoot

http://m4a2t0t.homestead.com/computer.html


i've tried routing the hoses both ways and lapped the WB
i checked the temps of the WB and resivor and they are like 85F

[Hoot]

What voltage do you run your CPU at to get such a fine overclock?
I'm trying to get an idea of the wattage you are trying to dissipate.

Hoot

[pHaestus]

If you are using a compunurse, make sure that you remove the outer layer of heatshrink on the probe. Underneath that the individual leads will still be heatshrinked. If the outer heatshrink is still on the probe you may be causing the waterblock to be mounted at a slight angle. In fact you are lucky the CPU isn't dead if that is the case.

If your CPU temp is that high, feel the tubing on the outlet fitting of the block. Is it noticeably warmer than the room temp? If so then your waterblock is mounted properly and either your pump or your radiator isn't powerful enough. If you are hitting 47C and your water is still room temp then the block probably isn't making good contact. If you suspect the radiator, then first try to shake it again and see if there is air in it. You can get some pretty bad temps with air in the radiator since it drastically cuts down on surface area for heat transfer.

What block are you using? If it is a maze2 then tighten those nuts down all the way. Do it a little at a time in a diagonal fashion to make sure the pressure is applied evenly. I have no daylight at all through my springs.

Compunurses on the side of the core read low, but at least they are reasonably consistent. I at last get sensible trends in CPU temp with a compunurse. With my socket probe water cooling was higher in temp than air cooling for example :/

And finally, shims are for girls. :)

[pHaestus]

I just looked at the pics on your site. I see a couple of things. First of all, I would reverse the mounting of the maze2 so that the outlet fitting is on the top. As it stands now air in the block has no way to get out. The radiator is another spot where air would tend to collect; check for air in it.

If your water temps are 85F (I assume your room isn't that hot) then your rad may be overpowered. You can find a heatercore that handles 2 120s that would provide a ton more heat dissipation than that tranny cooler at an auto store for under $20.

[m4a2t0t]

i run the Vcore at 2.05V and about 3.5-3.6 I/O.

i removed the stupid shim,i dunno if i tightened the WB more this time of what nut now im sittin at 42-44c.maybe im not tightening down the WB enough,DD's site says to tighten it down till the block doesnt rotate but under how much turning force?

edit:the current vcore is at 1.95,cant go any lower with the vmod

[Warlord2]

well the temps are better....

are you sure the inlet of the wb is right over the cpu core?

Im setting hear at 34idle and have alot less airflow going though the radiator/s thin you so your rad should be fine

[m4a2t0t]

thats how DD's site shows how to install it so it's over the core

http://dangerden.com/Instructions/MAZE2.htm

i could try it the other way

[f155mph]

You are lucky the shim didn't kill your cpu, those damn thing killed mine. Wasted $10 for them and then cost me more money.

After looking at pics of your setup(very nice), i think you should make your system run in-line if possible. It looks to me that you have the pump submerged which will add a lot of heat to the water. You might also want to get a bigger rad if you can get it to fit in your case. You have an Antec sx1200 right? I think you can put a 12x5.75 heater core from Autozone in the top of your case. What kind of material is that rad made of? Since your block is made of copper, your rad should be the same material. If it alumium the chemical reaction between the two metal can cause the water to have less heat exchange property.

I have a question: It is possible to put the probe on the underside of the cpu? I crush one of those probe b4 so I don't want to put it between teh block.

[m4a2t0t]

the rad is made of aluminum.

if i got a inline pump what would be reccomended?enhiem?

[Warlord2]

Eheim 1250 is probly the best pump you can get

Danner are also supposed to be good and cheaper however I havent had good luck with mine

[Hoot]

Originally posted by m4a2t0t
i run the Vcore at 2.05V and about 3.5-3.6 I/O.


Holy Moley!

1650 Mhz at 2.05Vcore is 115W of heat. The math does not lie. Ambient=25C, CPU=46C Your system is delivering .18c/w. That is not as good as a the best water cooled system can do, but it may be as good as your water cooled system can do. I am getting .15c/w, but I have all my components at the same height and the highest point is where my bleeder tap is. The other guys are right in that your radiator is situated so that you will have trouble getting the air bled out of it. I don't care for a reservoir, but if I was going to use one, it would be at the highest point in the system. FWIW, here is my layout.

73, Hoot

[m4a2t0t]

currently i am not oc'ing and my vcore is at 1.95 and my temps are 42-44c cpu now that i removed the shim and tightened the WB down more.

how about i put the resivor above my dvd drive and unbolt the rad and lay it down so its below the resivor,let run like that for a while and then bolt it backup

why is it best to keep all the components at the same level.how did u figure how many watts it put out

[Hoot]

Just do it...

Most of the fun with Overclocking comes from experimenting and trying different approaches. That's how you milk all you can from your system.

FWIW 1650 Mhz @ 1.95 Vcore @ 25C Ambient @ 42-44C CPU = .16-.18 c/w

I can't say this enough, but that is an excellent OC!

I envy you being able to get such high FSB.

Enjoy

Hoot

[f155mph]

The best in-line pump would be the Eheim since it German made(I think). But it cost $60 for the 1250. If you don't want to spend that much I would get the Maxi-jet 1200 (made in Italy). They are high quality pumps, I have many aquariums so I have experience in this. The pump cost around $22 at petsmart.com and is very small.(Eheim is big)

http://www.aquariumsystems.com/pumps.htm

Here is a pic of my rig:

I haven't put it in the case yet, since my Tbird is toasted. I am waiting for the Epox 8kha2 to come out and the price of the 2000 xp to come down.