What are your Watercooled Temps?

[NovaCX12]

Now that I got my Watercooled setup going. Im just curious too see if my temps are ok or not. I am running a OCH CPU and GF3 Waterblock, Leufkin Pump/Resevoir on top of computer case, and a OCH 12x5 Radiator in a fridge/chiller sitting in a small tub with water/waterwetter. Im just thinking to my self, did I REALLY need all this? Or could I have just AIRCOOLED? Oh well, I am still thinking of ways to improve the way my setup is. I will post pics when I get the camera. Otherwise, temps are as follows.

Water Temp before entering CPU : 21C
Motherboard Reported Temp @ Idle : 28C
Motherboard Reported Temp @ Load :31C
Motherboard System Temp : 28C

Thanks Again!
:D

[Amair_sc]

Athlon T-bird 1.4 @ 1.6 with 1.85v
Koolance water cooling system :
Idle : 30C
Full load : 33C

My room is in the basement so the air is quite chilly.

[ColdMiser]

My only way of measuring right now is the ASUS probe on my A7V, but here goes:

Right now:
Ambient (digital thermometer) = 18.5 C

System: (Asus Probe) = 21 C
CPU Full Load (Asus Probe) = 35 C

I am watercooling a stock T-Bird 900 with a Swiftech MCW462, Eheim 1048, Blackice Extreme rad with 2 Panaflo 120 H1A's in push-pull, 1/2" ID all around.

[Tiger]

Details in my sig.

[Greedy Guido]

Worst case

Ambient 39°C
System 41°C
CPU 37°C Full load

Duron 750 @ 1000 with JARON Deep Freeze cooling block, 12V LVM Amazon and Cooling Tower.

[Hoot]

See my signature, but try to keep in mind asking other people what they get is like asking people how their gas mileage goes. A lot of variance can be attributed to the wattage their CPU is generating, their PC room temperature, the size of and layout of their case, how loud they will tolerate their cooling system being, the list goes on and on. No two will be the same.

73, Hoot

[Bubba]

Tiger, are you using a pelt also?Also how are you keeping your liquid so cool in the resevoir,or are you having to mess with it somehow every 5 minutes?

[Tiger]

Originally posted by Bubba
Tiger, are you using a pelt also?Also how are you keeping your liquid so cool in the resevoir,or are you having to mess with it somehow every 5 minutes?
No pelts. I wrote the article on the main page "Sub-zero cooling for $21? or http://www.overclockers.com/tips777/ Have a look at the article and you will see the details of the system there.

[The Overclocker]

mine is 4 degrees above ambient and does not change when running full load, my ambient it 20 degrees celecus

[Dissolved]

mines pretty high, but i question my temp prob on my mobo..
but im around 45c idle.. and my room temp changes alot.. so that afects my temp grealy.. but usualy 44~48c idle.. i dont stress my cpu with seti or nething.. other details in sig..

[TruckChase!]

I get up to 43 deg. C. W/ my 1600+ @ 1698Mhz @ 2.1v. Running a Danger Den Maze2 block, 12 pass copper radiator dual 120mm fans, and a eheim 1250 pump. It runs 35 deg. at idle. Ambient is around 21 deg. C. Temps as reported by Abit in-socket thermistor. Load temp with a thermaright SK6/delta was 54 deg. C. @ 1620Mhz/2.0v.

[Dissolved]

Originally posted by Amair_sc
Athlon T-bird 1.4 @ 1.6 with 1.85v
Koolance water cooling system :
Idle : 30C
Full load : 33C

My room is in the basement so the air is quite chilly.

are you very stable at 1.85v?
im brealy stable at my oc and im @ 1.92v

[Trap]

I am an old school overclocker and i'm still stuck with air cooling but im self proclaimed guru considering it lol
But i still cant believe that its possible to run electronic components @ sub-zero temps just cant believe it lol
I have to read and check those articles and start gettin into it cuz it sounds pretty damn interestin hehehehe:)

[Dissolved]

Originally posted by Trap
I am an old school overclocker and i'm still stuck with air cooling but im self proclaimed guru considering it lol
But i still cant believe that its possible to run electronic components @ sub-zero temps just cant believe it lol
I have to read and check thos articles and start gettin into it hehehehe:)

well you should get into it, its like my life now.. i think about overclocking everything.. its now on my mind more then girls.. so im a deadicated oc'er, i just need to learn alot more to be good.. ;)

[Trap]

hehehhe i was thinkin to overclock some babes too hehehhe
:D :D ;) ;)
P.S. actually i did manage to ...some of them

[Dissolved]

Originally posted by Trap
hehehhe i was thinkin to overclock some babes too hehehhe
:D :D ;) ;)

babes?
lmao..
i was thinking about overclocking a micky dee's chessebuger ;)

[Gravity Man]

Ambient: 22c
CPU Load: 36c
CPU Idle: Never (http://www.ocsetiteam.com)

All CPU temp is from MBM, ambient is from a thermostat about 5 feet from my computer.

[Trap]

I am like Porsche,they had almost the best sports car in the world and it stayed a long time cooled only by air...they switched to watercooling couple a years ago.. rotfl
:D :D :D :D

[Dissolved]

Originally posted by Trap
I am like Porsche,they had almost the best sports car in the world and it stayed a long time cooled only by air...they switched to watercooling couple a years ago.. rotfl
:D :D :D :D


heh :cool:

[JFettig]

i havent got my wc up yet but im getting 20c idle 21 load and i wonder if ill get like 19 on wc. and it hasnt changed eaven when i raized the fsb to 110 ( my mobo that im running rite now) cuz it doesnt allow me to change multiplier, but when i get my dragon set up tonite WHOA ill have fun!!!
i hope i get my psu tonite!
and rite now i got my 800 at 850 cuz of the non multiplier suported board and ill see what i can pull out of my dragon...
the temps are the same, and i got it to boot at almost 900 with the same temps, but it didnt get very far into winbloze...

[NovaCX12]

So i guess i'm one of the *cooler* guys then I guess eh? :D

Thanks for the responses.

[eh?]

my temps suck... full load is 45 and idle is 41. im pretty sure its my raditor but i haven't got around to changing yet so i will let you know if they change any.

[DarkArctic]

Both processors @ 27C full load. No pelts, just a block.
Ambient 24C
I've never experienced idle before.

-DarkArctic

[GoldenTiger]

Sigh... I can't wait to get my watercooled setup ****it! Stop making me jealous :D!

[Dissolved]

Originally posted by GoldenTiger
Sigh... I can't wait to get my watercooled setup ****it! Stop making me jealous :D!

hehe, i may get a freg too ;P

[m4a2t0t]

42-44c loaded

i have a window a/c unit that keeps my room cool in the summer,i have put a 3 in flexible duct attached to it and it goes to the puter,i can get my temps down to 26c.i usually keep it at 76f and i run 33-38c

[UserName]

Tiger;
Have you considered Direct Die cooling?

Have you considered throwing away you case and putting all your stuff in your freezer, to get rid of the condensation problem?

[Tiger]

Originally posted by UserName
Tiger;
Have you considered Direct Die cooling?

Have you considered throwing away you case and putting all your stuff in your freezer, to get rid of the condensation problem?
Yes I have considered the DD approach and have been hesitant to go the route because of one very important unknown - the contraction factor. I know with my current rig there are pronounced effects going on between +4C and -1C. It would appear that the core may be actually contracting as having run it for a while I have noticed that the full load temps are lower than the idle. i.e. getting -6C at full load but -5C at idle. Since the thermistor is underneath this to my way of thinking indicates the core expanding and making better contact with the block. I am very concerned about the effect of these contraction factors on the adhesion of any attached device. Do't forget at start the system is going from +20C to -20C in a minute. That is 40C change in temp in a very short period.
In regard to putting it inside. Its fairly complex and condensation would be a problem. At present the tank has thick layers of insulation around it to minimise the heat gain. I want to keep the tank at -20C. The interior of the fridge is probably around 10C. The moment the insulation is removed then the tank temps are going to be difficult to maintain.

[UserName]

The expansion and contraction wont be a problem. There is a manufacture that sells a refrigerated overclocked CPU system. When you turn it on it cools the CPU to –40 before the machine can boot. They worked with AMD to see if everything was OK. I can’t seem to find their web site quickly.

I didn’t think if you put the entire CPU in the Fridge with the door on there would be a condensation issue as the system is sealed.

[Tiger]

That is KryoTech. They use a an evaporator block on the cpu.
There would still be a 20C differential between the coolant and the w/b unless the interior is left open and then there wil be a sacrifice in coolant temps. Probably best temp achievable for coolant would be in the -10C zone

[UserName]

So you don't think your fridge could handle a 300W load?

[Tiger]

There is no way any domestic appliance can handle 300W. There are various different applications of refrigeration. I am using a medium transfer system i.e. I am taking heat from the core into a coolant and then out through the evaporator and then to refrigerant and then to the air. There are inefficiencies on each transfer. The shorter the route the more efficient it bcomes. By going the next step of taking the evaporator and placing it on the die the efficiency improves dramatically. In my case the system would be overkill as the system would be too powerful for the application. It is however a complex system and the configuration of refrigerant/compressor/condenser/evaporator ratios is critical.

[UserName]

I just went to check my house Fridge. Rated 115@6.5Amps is about 750 watts. If the fridge is 70% efficient that’s more than 500W. But that’s a house fridge not a bar fridge. What’s your little machine rated?

[Tiger]

Its not as simple as taking a power reading P=IV. A compressor is rated for its output. My unit is 220V 5A but the ouput is 110W. I'll get the calcs for you but most modern fridges have improved the efficiencies and have compressors in the region of 90-100W.

[UserName]

My fridge compressor says 762 BTU/Hr.. That’s 220+ watts. So even my big fridge couldn’t handle the whole thing I guess. But you could put the power supply and the drives outside the fridge (to reduce load). Just the motherboard and CPU to load the compressor and still cool just the CPU, just no insulation and a cleaner package. What do you think?

[Tiger]

The power of a compressor is defined as being equal to the actual refrigerating capacity x theoretical power per unit refrigerating capacity.
The refrigerating capacity is the refigerants mass flow rate x refrigerating effect.
The theoretical power is the actual power plus the losses incurred by work x the inverse factor of efficiency. In an example given the theoretical power is 1.4KW but the actual power is 2.8KW

[Tiger]

For a deeper look at refrigeration have a look at this excellent site
http://www.refrigerationbasics.com/800x600/rb1.htm

[Tiger]

Originally posted by UserName
My fridge compressor says 762 BTU/Hr.. That’s 220+ watts. So even my big fridge couldn’t handle the whole thing I guess. But you could put the power supply and the drives outside the fridge (to reduce load). Just the motherboard and CPU to load the compressor and still cool just the CPU, just no insulation and a cleaner package. What do you think?
I assume you are looking purely at air cooling. It's quite difficult looking at a problem using different units of measurement. A BTU is the amount of energy required to heat 1lb of water by 1F. So you must either convert your watts which is metric to imperial units or convert BTU to Joules to get metric.
The basic formula is
Q=A x U x TD
Q = evaporator rate in watts
where A = the surface area of the evaporator
U = conductance factor of the medium (air, water etc) in W/m2K
TD= temp difference in K (or C)