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View Full Version : What is the correct resistance after Unlocking????


Silvel2edge
01-14-02, 01:21 PM
How do you properly use the multimeter to measure resistance before and after unlocking the XP?

I know the conductive material should be about 0 ohms, but how do you measure and what should the other measurements be of the l1 bridges connected together and such after you are done unlocking/think you are done unlocking?

wild_andy_c
01-14-02, 01:26 PM
The correct resistance between bridge ends should be equal to that of a processor that will work at any multiplier - or in other words - fire it in the board and have a go !!

Suck it and see !

Wa11y
01-14-02, 01:28 PM
Originally posted by Silvel2edge
How do you properly use the multimeter to measure resistance before and after unlocking the XP?

I know the conductive material should be about 0 ohms, but how do you measure and what should the other measurements be of the l1 bridges connected together and such after you are done unlocking/think you are done unlocking?

I think the resistance should still be 0. You don't want resistance, or the electricity won't flow. hence you use something to unlock the bridges that is electrically conductive.

Silvel2edge
01-14-02, 01:30 PM
That's not helpful!

Silvel2edge
01-14-02, 01:33 PM
Last post was not to you Wally. What i mean though is how to tell if there is truly a connection when measuring. If it says 0 ohms, that's good... but how will i know if there is truly a connection there and not just knowing if the resistance is good? If i didn't have the bridge connected, would it not still display 0 ohms?

Also, is there another measuring means i have to do? Like measure the voltage or something between the ground and the other bottom or upperside of the l1?

wild_andy_c
01-14-02, 02:01 PM
I'm in electonics in PC hardware for a living and for something as mundane as this - one would not waste the time or effort checking their work with a prop - they would simply so the job and test it. We have unlocked with Electrolube conductive paint some large amount of XP's for testwork (50 ?) and not never measured one, and we have IWATSU oscilloscopes coming out of our bumholes.

It's a bit like the mountain out of a molehill kind of thing really - don't get making one.

Silvel2edge
01-14-02, 03:01 PM
I understand... but i'm sure you understand my concern, being one of my first overclocking attempts.

Strangelove
01-14-02, 03:53 PM
If you are still concerned I think THG did an extensive article on unlocking the XP's.

Godfodda
01-14-02, 04:14 PM
A good multimeter will show "OL" for no connection (zero load, I think). Just plain zero is good. Test by touching the probes together. Should show a zero (and a beep if sound is on). Separate them, and it should show "OL". That's the way it works on the Flukes we use, anyway.

Wa11y
01-14-02, 04:20 PM
Originally posted by wild_andy_c
I'm in electonics in PC hardware for a living and for something as mundane as this - one would not waste the time or effort checking their work with a prop - they would simply so the job and test it. We have unlocked with Electrolube conductive paint some large amount of XP's for testwork (50 ?) and not never measured one, and we have IWATSU oscilloscopes coming out of our bumholes.

It's a bit like the mountain out of a molehill kind of thing really - don't get making one.

i think Andy's hit the nail right on the head.

Just do it, and run with it. If it doesn't work, it shouldn't damage anything, just won't let you change multipliers. Just pull your rig apart and try again. Overclocking is more of an art than a science.