Final Specs - I hope

[River2971]

Ok, after some questions and readings (and sending back some wrongly ordered parts:-/), I've almost decided on the following (for system in sig).


Swiftech APOGEE GTZ with LGA1366 hold down.
Feser X-Changer 360mm Rad with Scythe Gentle Typhoon High Speed Fans.
Swiftech MCP655 fixed speed pump (will control with rheostat).
EK-D5 X-TOP Version 2 for Pump.
3G Pump Bracket for D4/D5 (Deep Red)
Bitspower MCP655 Mod Kit
Swiftech MCRES-MICRO Rev 2 Res.
Danger Den Fill Port.
Bitspower G 1/4" High Flow 3/8" barbs throughout.
Tygon 3603 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) Tubing.
1/2" OD Black hose clamps.
Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme 6 channel (30w per channel) to control pump and lighting.
NZXT Sentry LX to control fans and temp sensors.
G1/4" Temperature sensor (for Res).
Electronic Flow sensor (with fan tach converter).
Feser One F1 Fluid (Black/UV Blue).


Initial loop will be:
Pump->Rad->CPU->M/B->GPU*->Res->Pump

Fill port will be connected to top of res.

I will be painting the inside of the case a deep red as well and then using a UV reactive (red) clear coat and adding CC-UV lighting.

So what am I missing or overlooking?

*Will be adding a 295GTX once card comes out ( and block is available).

[Spawn-Inc]

i would change to 1/2" tubing with all that you want cooled.

and that pump top is not for the D4/D5's its for the laing DDC's pumps (Swiftech MCP350/355)

[River2971]

i would change to 1/2" tubing with all that you want cooled.

and that pump top is not for the D4/D5's its for the laing DDC's pumps (Swiftech MCP350/355)

Yep, Clicked on the wrong one. It'll be the EK-D5 X-TOP Version 2.

As for the tubing size, I'd have to add a reducer in the loop since my m/b has 3/8" barbs already and they don't appear to be changeable. I'd rather take the hit on the tubing then stick a pair of reducers in the middle of the loop.

[BigBadBaz]

1. What are yopu going to be using for your M/B (nb, sb, both?) and GPU?

2. For the pump, you would probably be better off with the MCP355 with XSPC Laing DDC top.

3. Like Spawn said, you would be better off with 1/2" or 7/16" (better for routing) tubing.

4. Clear distilled water (with biocide) is better than Feser 1 or any other premixes. If your going to mix it with water for the uv/color you may want to look into getting uv/color tubing with clear water. Feser 1 will gunk up your blocks over time.

5. When you say the fillport will connect to the top of the res, I assume you mean fillport->tube->barb attatched to res?

[Spawn-Inc]

i think he means the built in block on the motherboard, which i wouldn't include since it uses anodized aluminum for the cover, which is a no-no.

[BigBadBaz]

Oh, I never looked into that board. Looks like it's all copper though. Looks like it's all copper though? http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3409650#post3409650

If it does have alu though, I wouldn't use it. Unless you REALLY want to, in which case there are OK ways around it.

[River2971]

1. What are yopu going to be using for your M/B (nb, sb, both?) and GPU?

2. For the pump, you would probably be better off with the MCP355 with XSPC Laing DDC top.

3. Like Spawn said, you would be better off with 1/2" or 7/16" (better for routing) tubing.

4. Clear distilled water (with biocide) is better than Feser 1 or any other premixes. If your going to mix it with water for the uv/color you may want to look into getting uv/color tubing with clear water. Feser 1 will gunk up your blocks over time.

5. When you say the fillport will connect to the top of the res, I assume you mean fillport->tube->barb attatched to res?

The GA-EX58-EXTREME has an all copper water block built in. It is bolted onto the aluminum cooling frame. There is no fluid coming in contact with any of the aluminum so I can't see a corrosion issue there. The problem is that it has fixed 3/8" barbs and I do not want to put reducers in the loop.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the MCP655 quieter then the MCP355? Not to mention that I like the look of it. I will trade some head pressure for the higher flow rate and a quieter build.

Yes, the fillport->tube->Top of Res.

I'll do some further reading on the coolant issues.

[Spawn-Inc]

oh, if its all copper then your good to go. i thought it was copper base with a aluminum top.

[axis01]

I'd also get some slower speed fans. I don't think those fans can be turned down enough to be really quiet. Once you lower them past a point, they just shut off. The Fesser rads are very efficient and work very well with low speed fans. The difference between a a good set of low speed fans and monster 3k rpm fans is only a degree or two. A set of good medium speed (1.2-2k rpm) fans would be ideal since you could lower them down to be almost dead silent yet have a little extra overhead should you think you need it.

Axis

[River2971]

I'd also get some slower speed fans. I don't think those fans can be turned down enough to be really quiet. Once you lower them past a point, they just shut off. The Fesser rads are very efficient and work very well with low speed fans. The difference between a a good set of low speed fans and monster 3k rpm fans is only a degree or two. A set of good medium speed (1.2-2k rpm) fans would be ideal since you could lower them down to be almost dead silent yet have a little extra overhead should you think you need it.

Axis

Going by this Scythe Gentle Typhoon - 120mm - pics and impressions (http://www.silentpcreview.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=431970&sid=f14046ffb2cbf59aeccd2ca04b610029), I'll probably get the medium speed (1450rpm) ones. It appears that they can be taken down to 7v and still run. They have a distinctive look and you can get both the sleeve and the shrink wrap (which I assume is covering the wires coming out) in various color combination's.

edit-> I am also looking at the Noctua NF-S12-1200 fans. It sounds like they would be even quieter.

[BigBadBaz]

This is what is usually recommended: http://www.petrastechshop.com/12yalod1cafa1.html