WC advise

[Cobra26]

Hi folks i'm new to this site, lot of info:)

Need some feedback/advise on these components: please note i'm from the EU the netherlands.

Focus is on sillence although i do know its not going to be inaudible i am aware of that
hope the radiator wich i have in mind is sillent enough (more space between the fins)
And no high overclocking, perhaps a mild overclock to 3.0GHz with i7 920 cpu.

Swiftech MCP655 D5-Pump 12V Vario
D-Tek FuZion v2 universal, beter for multiple blocks i think...(retention kit for 1366?)
XSPC Razor 260 GPU block (for GTX 260)
Black ICE Radiator GT Xtreme 360 lite?
Swiftech MCRES-Micro reservoir rev2
EK-D5 X-TOP G1/4 Rev.2
Feser Tube UV blue - HighFlow - 3/8 4m
10x 13/10mm screw-on fitting 1/4 - copper plated
6x Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe MF12-S2 120mm fan
watercooling additive?

I had plans to use 1/2"ID tubing mainly for cosmetic reasons but the only problem was there are no 13MM (1/2) copper screw-ins. After some research i found out the best way to prevent mixing metals (oxidation) is to use the same kind of metal-parts in your loop. cpu block=copper, gpu block=copper, screw-ins=copper, radiator...:-/:-/ Or am i exaggerating?

It's hard to find copper (copper room and fins) radiators, anyone knows of one good copper 360 radiator?

Some good water additive without color, im not interested in coloring my tubing (hence the choice on Feser Blue tubing) just plain distilled water, do i still need water additive?

Does any one of you have Feser tubing especialy the blue one? see link:

http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=278

If so:Is it clear enough to see possible air or water when you have to drain?
Otherwise i would have choosen black tygon tubing my only consern was not seeing any air/water pockets in the tubing when filling or draining, i could be wrong about that one....

Help is very much appreciated, thanks in advance,
Best regards.

[muddocktor]

:welcome: to OCForums, Cobra26.:attn:

First of all, this for an i7 system, right? The reason I ask is that as far as I know, D-Tek hasn't come out with an LGA1366 adapter kit yet. But Swiftech has come out with one for the Apogee GTZ, which is a great block and fully equal to the Fuzion v2 in performance.

Your pump is a great choice for your loop, with plenty of reserve power to add another block or 2 later if you go SLI with the video cards or want to add a nb block to the loop.

Radiator - Since they are made in the UK, you might look into getting a Thermochill radiator instead of the BI GTX. The Thermochil PA120.3 will work better with quiet fans and is a very good radiator. They are not cheap here in the US but I have seen much more reasonable prices on them listed in UK based online shops (in relation to other brand radiators). Be aware that if you go with the Thermochill radiator, you will need 2 barbs threaded in G3/8 instead of the more normal G1/4. EK makes some good G3/8 barbs and are the ones I'm using on my PA120.3 rad. And I don't know where they are made, but the Feser TFC series radiators are also as good as the Thermochill rads and they are threaded in G1/4 for their fittings.

For barbs, you can use the Swiftech High Flow metal barbs or if you can find them over there the EK Fatboy barbs. Both are G1/4 and come in both 3/8 and 1/2 sizes.

I've never had any of the Feser tubing, but I've heard it is some quality stuff. I have personally been using either the Tygon R3400 or the Tygon Silver Antimicrobial tubing and both of them are very good (but expensive). BTW, the silver Tygon is translucent enough to be able to see big air bubbles in it when you are bleeding down the loop.

For coolant, I use distilled water and PTNuke from Petra's Tech Shop. I don't know what is available to you locally, but you might be able to order the PTNuke from Petra's without shipping killing you.

I have no experience with the gpu block you chose, so I can't help you there.

[Spawn-Inc]

Hi folks i'm new to this site, lot of info:)

Need some feedback/advise on these components: please note i'm from the EU the netherlands.

Focus is on sillence although i do know its not going to be inaudible i am aware of that
hope the radiator wich i have in mind is sillent enough (more space between the fins)
And no high overclocking, perhaps a mild overclock to 3.0GHz with i7 920 cpu.

Swiftech MCP655 D5-Pump 12V VarioGood
D-Tek FuZion v2 universal, beter for multiple blocks i think...(retention kit for 1366?)i would get the Swiftech Apogee GTZ with the 1366 bracket. dtek, the last time i looked, doesn't have one yet.
XSPC Razor 260 GPU block (for GTX 260)
Black ICE Radiator GT Xtreme 360 lite? if you have the money then feser or thermochill work best with low speed fans
Swiftech MCRES-Micro reservoir rev2Good
EK-D5 X-TOP G1/4 Rev.2waste of money IMO the difference from the stock top is small
Feser Tube UV blue - HighFlow - 3/8 4mthat seems to be 3/8" and you want 1/2"
10x 13/10mm screw-on fitting 1/4 - copper platedno need for these (copper plating i mean)
6x Noiseblocker NB-Multiframe MF12-S2 120mm fan
watercooling additive?distilled water and 2 drops of PT nuke

I had plans to use 1/2"ID tubing mainly for cosmetic reasons but the only problem was there are no 13MM (1/2) copper screw-ins. After some research i found out the best way to prevent mixing metals (oxidation) is to use the same kind of metal-parts in your loop. cpu block=copper, gpu block=copper, screw-ins=copper, radiator...:-/:-/ Or am i exaggerating? brass has copper in it so brad and copper is fine. also the barbs are fine, i'm not actually sure what there made from, steel? either way the main 2 metals you don't want mixing are copper and aluminum.

It's hard to find copper (copper room and fins) radiators, anyone knows of one good copper 360 radiator?
feser and thermochill rads are your friends, otherwise the Swiftech series are excellent price/performance

Some good water additive without color, im not interested in coloring my tubing (hence the choice on Feser Blue tubing) just plain distilled water, do i still need water additive?
Distilled water and Pt nuke (http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html) are what alot of people use.
Does any one of you have Feser tubing especialy the blue one? see link:

http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=278

If so:Is it clear enough to see possible air or water when you have to drain?
Otherwise i would have choosen black tygon tubing my only consern was not seeing any air/water pockets in the tubing when filling or draining, i could be wrong about that one....

Help is very much appreciated, thanks in advance,
Best regards.


welcome BTW

[atomic ferret]

I would swap that rad for a Swiftech MCR320. Also, I would ditch the D5 top as it doesn't significantly improve performance. D-Tek still doesn't have their i7 hold down plate as far as I know, so I would go with the Swiftech GTZ. Any barb you find on main water cooling sites are fine to use. They are mostly nickel plated which doesn't react with copper, so you're fine with those, you don't need all copper barbs. Most rads are a combination of copper and brass. The term 'mixing metals' is a little misleading because many common metals do not react in a negative way with copper such as nickel or brass. It mostly applies to aluminum.

[jr1]

what i did was to go to a local petstore and get some antialgaestuff from there
never had any growt in my loop with that stuff in the water

[axis01]

You could save a little $$ by getting different fans. The Scythe S-flex 1200rpm fans and the Yate loon 1200rpm fans are widely used and are considerably cheaper than the ones you listed. They are both high quality fans and work very well with the rad you listed. YL's are a staple for watercoolers for their price, good airflow, good sound level, and good static pressure.

Axis

[Cobra26]

Thanks for the feedback guys

All i can say is wauw! Only from these 5 reply's i learned a lot!!. I made a good choice coming here.:) (The watercooling scene in the USA is much bigger and have more experience with it IMO, the scene started earlier then in the EU i'm not saying the level of skill here is bad its just smaller here). Especialy my main consern: mixing metals, so aluminum with copper is a big no got it:)
I found the TFC Xchanger 360 Triple and the Thermochil PA120.3, realy looks good but it wont come cheap, but thats the price you pay for quality.

Finally i can get those big 1/2" (13mm) ID tubing.
And as for the PTNuke couldnt find it here il have to look harder.
The Swiftech Apogee looks great definitely i good to go.

Just have one question: are screw-ins the best choice regarding best protection for leaking?, and also it looks much better then other types of fittings.

Thanks again for all your help guys, your help is much appriciated
Best regards.

[jr1]

i just use regular barbs and automotive clamps prefably the fuel line ones since i feel they give a better tightening and less of a chanse of cutting anything at all in the tubing
but that's just my opinion

[Spawn-Inc]

And as for the PTNuke couldnt find it here il have to look harder.

send off a email to petras international orders email. i over ordered thinking i would dump a bottle in my loop each time so i got 4 bottles. but you should only put in tops 2 drops. so now i have pt nuke for life, lol. here is there email (international@petrastech.com).
just ask them how much shipping is to where you live and what and how much of it you want.

Just have one question: are screw-ins the best choice regarding best protection for leaking?, and also it looks much better then other types of fittings.

not sure what you mean by screw-ins? if you mean barbs there are 2 types. standard barbs that you need a hose clamp of sorts for and compression fittings which don't need clamps and look nice but cost an arm and a leg.

[axis01]

send off a email to petras international orders email. i over ordered thinking i would dump a bottle in my loop each time so i got 4 bottles. but you should only put in tops 2 drops. so now i have pt nuke for life, lol. here is there email (international@petrastech.com).
just ask them how much shipping is to where you live and what and how much of it you want.

+1

While you're at it, order a few YL fans and a Sunbeam fan controller to make shipping worth while. :thup: The guys at Petras are VERY nice to talk to and very knowledgeable. You could grab a MCR320 and save yourself quite a bit more $$. The savings might even cover shipping.

Axis

[Conumdrum]

I had the absolute pleasure of meeting Petra at Fuggers OC competition at CES in Las Vegas. A very fine, very caring individual.

And BTW, seeing a AMD processor cooled to -236C with liquid helium was very very cool. I think they got it to boot at 6.6G, and was able to run 3DMark at 6.3G. And, their 3DMark score was a tad over 45000!

[Spawn-Inc]

I had the absolute pleasure of meeting Petra at Fuggers OC competition at CES in Las Vegas. A very fine, very caring individual.

And BTW, seeing a AMD processor cooled to -236C with liquid helium was very very cool. I think they got it to boot at 6.6G, and was able to run 3DMark at 6.3G. And, their 3DMark score was a tad over 45000!

3dmark what? 06?

[Conumdrum]

You'll have to go to pg 15 or so of the thread to see the actual day of the event.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=3571193#post3571193

[Cobra26]

I just looked at one of your online stores for watercooling and i must say the price difference is HUGE!!! very HUGE example:

Swiftech MCP655 pump €79.95 = 106.97 USD
Swiftech Apogee GTZ €69,95 = 93.58 USD
Swiftech MCRES-Micro Reservoir €25,95 = 34.72 USD
EK-FC280 GTX GTX 260 block €89,99 = 120.41 USD
Thermochill PA120.3 Triple €90,49 = 121.22 USD
Feser Tube UV HighFlow 1/2 ID 4m €31,60 = 42.27 USD
13MM (1/2) Feser compression fitting €49,90 = 66.80 USD

Total = €437.83 = 586.63 USD

The problem with ordering stuff from the USA is when they arrive in Europe in this case the Netherlands the border customs will force you to pay taxes:(
of the product(s) you have purchased, from abroad. (and offcourse warranty issues) I did contact the online store here and ques what they are willing to order the PTnuke because more people are interested in the product (they have their own forum) so they order a lot of PTnuke in 1 go, just have to tell them i'm intterested.

As for the screw ins i ment Compression Fittings, yes they are pricey but hopefully they provide better protection against leaking and it looks good.

Thanks again guys you helped me a lot.:beer:

[Blazing fire]

I will change the MCP655 to MCP355 +XSPC top.

[Cobra26]

I will change the MCP655 to MCP355 +XSPC top.

Its a good pump no doubt about that, but....its noisy a whining sound... i did read the customer reviews. That's why il get the 655 it has good reviews especialy the sound: the whining sound is gone and its relatively sillent, wich i prefer.

but thanks.

[Ric2L]

Its a good pump no doubt about that, but....its noisy a whining sound... i did read the customer reviews. That's why il get the 655 it has good reviews especialy the sound: the whining sound is gone and its relatively sillent, wich i prefer.

but thanks.

Hmmm.... my MPC355 (w/XSPC top Res) makes no noise at all, If I shut down all my fans I still can't hear it! I think your confusing the 350 with the 355? Or maybe I just got lucky:shrug:

[Blazing fire]

I don't know but subjectively, the MCP655 has a whining sound, not the MCP355. :shrugs:

[muddocktor]

I have an MCP355 and if you get real close to it in a very quiet room you can hear it running. But with the case sides on and a couple of quiet fans running in the case you will not hear the pump.

[Blazing fire]

What about the whining noise, dock?

Btw, you have a PM!

[axis01]

Hmmm.... my MPC355 (w/XSPC top Res) makes no noise at all, If I shut down all my fans I still can't hear it! I think your confusing the 350 with the 355? Or maybe I just got lucky:shrug:

Theoretically the 350 should be quieter than the 355 since it's basically the same pump that uses less power. If the 655 vario is set to 5, there is a slight humming but set to 3 or 4 it's very quiet. You don't NEED to run your pump full blast to get the best performance from it. All you really need is to get more than 1gpm as there is very little gain from using more than that. Make sure you have the pump sitting on a gel or foam pad to dampen the motor noise. If attatched directly to the case, it can transmit noise.

Axis

[Ric2L]

Theoretically the 350 should be quieter than the 355 since it's basically the same pump that uses less power. If the 655 vario is set to 5, there is a slight humming but set to 3 or 4 it's very quiet. You don't NEED to run your pump full blast to get the best performance from it. All you really need is to get more than 1gpm as there is very little gain from using more than that. Make sure you have the pump sitting on a gel or foam pad to dampen the motor noise. If attatched directly to the case, it can transmit noise.

Axis

Something I forgot about....... When I installed my pump I put 4 small self adhesive rubber feet on the bottom of it which lifts if off the bottom of case about 1/8". I did this because at the time I remember reading where the 355 needs good air flow all around the base of pump, and I really did'nt like the look of the "Gel Stuff". Now I'm glad I did it that way, been reading where some pumps have been dieing due to excessive heat when mounted on "Gel Stuff". Anyway, maybe thats why mine is so quiet?

[Spawn-Inc]

well my 665 is very quiet and you pretty much have to have everything else turned off to hear it.

now the D4 is loud...

[axis01]

now the D4 is loud...

That will no longer be a problem for future builders unless you buy them second hand. Petras is now out of them and won't be getting anymore. It was a one time deal and they bought a BUNCH of em.

Axis

[Spawn-Inc]

That will no longer be a problem for future builders unless you buy them second hand. Petras is now out of them and won't be getting anymore. It was a one time deal and they bought a BUNCH of em.

Axis

i'm surprise it took so long to sell out, i guess they did buy a massive amount. i got one so i'm happy. can deal with the sound as my fans will silence the pump up.