Droping Water Temp with Inline Chiller!!

[2C@nts4U]

I have read several forums. and yet to read anything about useing inline chillers...such as those used for Saltwater Aquariums.

Question is:

Would a 1/4hp Inline Chiller 300gph-600gph be a good solution for droping temps INSTEAD of a radiator. OR would the loop benifit from having both, with the loop being

pump, rad, chiller, cpu, res, pump

[Spawn-Inc]

you have to keep a certain flow rate through those otherwise they will not function correctly and i'm thinking you would need a stronger pump. those will also dump alot of heat into the room.

[aja]

You will be taking a risk because it could be a mess if you dump more heat into the water than the chiller can handle. You would need to use a rad as well probably.

Rather go the proper DIY chiller route or stay with plain water cooling. If you want to have some fun, try TEC's but do your homework or you could burn up your CPU or get bad temperatures...

[2C@nts4U]

How would you dump more heat in when they drop temps from 100f by 15-40degrees!!!

P.S. I have a 60gallon salt. but have had no need for a inline chiller yet.

But if chillers drop Aquarium temps due to the HQ lamps from 100-120f to the ideal salt temp of 73f then whay wouldn't the same chiller work for a OC pc!!

[outhouse]

it would work. im into reef,s going on 13 years.

how well it works depends on allot of things that cant be speculated. money cost for electricity might play into it. [they suck the electricity]

[DoubleB]

Someone please correct me if I am wrong, but I do not think a chiller designed for an aquarium would work. There is nothing in an aquarium that would be constantly generating heat; at least not to the degree that pc components do. I don't think that type of chiller would keep up.

[Spawn-Inc]

the lights will heat the water up alot, enough that it needs the chiller. of all the premaid water cooling below ambeint products that people ask about using (fridge, freezer, etc) i would say water chillers would be best chance.

the fish also generate heat, pumps,

[thorilan]

consider all the other things you must do if your water is below dewpoint once it reaches equalibrium

personally i would rather go full phase change than chiller because if you are going for extreme cool thats the way to go. if you are going for silence then WCing is good but when your trying to combine the 2 you get a so so system in both and in the end you wont be happy , especiallly for all the work required to safegaurd your system

[Conumdrum]

Why won't it work? Because an aquarium to be kept cool doesn't need the chiller to remove 400-500 watts of heat as your planned loop in your sig will need to do under load. Look at the capabilities of how much heat the chiller actually can remove. Also look at if the chiller is meant for the compressor to run 24/7, or anytime the PC is on.

You will see why it won't work once you look at the heat load you will generate vs the heat load you can dissipate.

'Nuff said.

[2C@nts4U]

OK to understand Inline chillers, they are meant to maintain a set temp exmp 70f under a 1000w heat load from the HQ lights, so thats basicly the same temp from a pc.

The inline chillers are never turned off...as the same goes for my pc.

[thorilan]

read my above post then ask yourself this.

is my motherboard water proofed

[mattgmann]

I have to vote with the it won't work crowd. I really don't think they will dissipate nearly enough heat. It's pretty much the same idea as putting a computer in a refrigerator. The inline cooler is designed to keep water cooler, not to counteract a heat load.

A DIY cooler is the only way to go. Personally, I'd also go with a ss phase cooler before messing with a chiller system if you want sub ambient temps. Building a cooler involves both building a liquid cooling system, and a phase system.

Anyway, it won't work. At least not with results that will be worth the effort. Think of it more like trying to cool water that's in a pan on a hot plate. That would be a more accurate comparison.

[Neuromancer]

IF the chillers are designed to remove 1000W heatload then go for it.

It will not be the best or most economical way of doing it but it probably will be the easiest :)

Be sure to post results here :)

[Insane Scyth]

IF the chillers are designed to remove 1000W heatload then go for it.

It will not be the best or most economical way of doing it but it probably will be the easiest

Be sure to post results here

I agree with this, if it is designed to remove 1000W, I would say its worth trying. As for your first question, if you were to do this I would run a radiator with it at first and if temps are great then consider removing it. If you go through with it, best of luck.

[Ben333]

A lot of these post make me wonder if people are reading the posts before their own...

I'll say it should work. If a chiller can cool a very large aquarium which could be in a room above 100F (absorbing heat from the room the tank is in) needing to chill water constantly to around 70F WITH some hot lights beaming down into the tank then I don't see why it shouldn't be able to take the heat of your CPU which I'm guessing is 60 W - 120 W of heat. Try it and just make sure the compressor and condenser of your chiller don't get too hot to touch, if they do then blow an extra fan at them.

[outhouse]

for those that dont think it will work go back and read my first post.

for those of you that dont know these coolers come in different sizes to deal with different heat loads.

these chillers are ment to take water in a aqurium from 10 gallons to 2000 gallons and keep it at 80F when you take into account summer heat in a house plus the lights and pumps involved its not the smartest thing to think that they wont work. [you need to do your homework or know the reality of whats at hand before giving advise] chillers deal with a heat load you dont understand. last time i checked i have 16 power cords going to my 100g aquarium and i use a large swamp cooler to keep my tank cool in the summer.

neuromancer hit the nail on the head as i led onto.

Its not cost effective but will work just fine

[Conumdrum]

Give it a try then. Your set to try it and if it don't you can easily add a better rad and pump later.

Best of luck, I guess thinking what your heat load can be vs what we see a lot here just gives us the willies. Not like you don't have the chiller and planning to buy it.

[2C@nts4U]

OK, I am going for quietness, NOT extreme cooling (although I might later). My goal is to get a little OCing on the build in the SIG, and to be as QUIET as possible (wife barking about the fans) so I conviced her that I need about $1500 to do this.... aka new Lian Li case, Rad, Pump, so I am looking into the best and quiest way to do this and get some OCing in.

The list so far is:

Case: Lian Li 2010V (DIY window)
Rad: Feser TFX 480 X-changer (w/Fan controller undecide brand)
Pump: Laining D5 variable speed
CPU Block: undecided DD TDX UNI Brass or Apogee GTZ or FuZion v2
Tube 1/2 ID
Res.
1 Fill port
1 Drain port

Possible extra loop for Vid Card (soon to be 4870X2) I think ((still on fence))

[thorilan]

if you want quiet then you definately would be better suited to a custom case and cooling config than a chiller.

what it all comes down to is are ou happy with what you achieve and the chiller is a lot of work and much riskier by keeping your temps below ambient.
it isnt a question of if it works its a question of what are you going to do when you see condensation on your block start to drip onto your video card