View Full Version : Best additive for distilled water
Toaster2812
02-13-09, 10:53 PM
so... distilled waters the best thermal transfer for water cooling??
I need to know whats a good corrosion inhibitor and a good anti alge thingy?? whatever thats called lol.
A friend recommended Water Wetter and thats what I use. Good stuff, $10/bottle at your local auto parts store.
Spawn-Inc
02-13-09, 11:02 PM
just use distilled water and 2 drops of PT nuke (http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html).
Toaster2812
02-13-09, 11:09 PM
I was waiting for oyu to reply Spawn inc. your helpful, and provide links ((: TY
Does pt nuke prevent corrosion??
Conumdrum
02-13-09, 11:32 PM
It prevents bio growth like algea and other things. Nothing corrodes in a loop with copper, brass, stainless, etc. We stay away from ANY aluminum type stuff.
Watter wetter was used long ago a lot. It's used in racing setups where they have the need for very high flow rates and dissilar metals. It actually decreases performance in inpingment type CPU blocks because you want radical wild water molecules bouncing. Water wetter increases the linearity of water. You don't need it, and it stinks to high heaven too.
Links, just take your time.
For your benefit please spend a few days reading a LOT. Here and at the busiest places for WC masters. Guys who have done it for YEARS at OC forums and xtreme forums. It took me a while (I was OCing on air, aftermarket stuff, bios settings, best chipsets etc etc) to learn the language and the tricks to a easy install.
Don't expect miracles, or SUPER DOOPER over clocks. What you will get is a quiet system that can handle OC to the max of your hardware IF you buy quality and buy smart. And minor maintenance too, a bonus for the water cooler.
Also while there please read on case mods etc. The radiators are not for small cases, the pumps and hose routing, wire management and other things are important to understand. Google your planned case and the word water-cooled in one line. You might get lucky.
IF you just cool your CPU and your NB if you want, you can get by with a 120.2 sized radiator (RAD). And MAYBE fit in inside depending on your mod skillz. You want to cool your GPU too, you'll need a 120.3 sized rad, and it won't fit inside. The rear external rad really works great. No matter what your adding 15lbs to your PC, maybe 20lbs.
Once you got an idea of what is good/bad then start getting your system for WC put together and we'll be glad to help.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/index.php?showtopic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/
http://translate.google.com/translate?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.effizienzgurus.de%2Fm ain%2Findex.php%3Fcontent%3Darticle%26action%3Dvie w_spec_article%26article_id%3D222&langpair=de%7Cen&hl=en&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/
http://www.dangerden.com/index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
rainless
02-13-09, 11:58 PM
The radiators are not for small cases,
BAH! I've seen people fit watercoolng setups into xbox 360's and PS3s! :p
But yeah... my eyes bugged-out the first time I took my radiator out of the box... and I only have a 120.2
You can mod a radiator to be just about anywhere though. The build that I just finished was my first foray into case modding (I've got the cuts and band-aids to prove it!), like condo said: depending on your skills. And if you aren't bleeding by the time you've finished, then you might be better than me (depending, of course, on how well YOU can drill eight perfectly-lined screw holes... http://www.ocforums.com/showpost.php?p=5982536&postcount=1 )
I had no idea how big my rad would be, if it were any bigger, then I would've attached it to the cabinet or desk above my PC. But there's always a way... depending on how determined you are.
THE most important thing is to take your time with the build. It was three whole days before I even started my first leak test, a week before I finished leak testing, and a couple more days before I turned my computer on.
Toaster2812
02-14-09, 12:35 AM
well i got everything put together to be honest conundrum,
already built the system,
I'm running this
Case:Nzxt Tempest
Processer:Intel 2 duo e8400
Video Card:EVGA GTS+ 9800
Mother Board:EVGA 750I FTW
Memory/RAM:Corsair RAM, (4 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400)
Power Supply:Corsair 850 watts
Hard Drive:500GIG Seagate
I wanna take a picture of wire managment... just don't have a camera. but i did a hell of a job, it's similar to this guys if not better
Click here to see a similar but probably not as good wiremanagement with my case (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SWpZUxY6R94)
I already purchased my CPU Block, and my pump:
CPU Block:Swiftech Apogee GTZ (http://petrastechshop.com/swapgtzcpuwa.html)
Pump:Swiftech D5-655 (http://petrastechshop.com/swmcin12pu.html)
this is what i'm about to purchase rad and res wise,
Radiator:Swiftech MC-220 (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCR-220-Radiator-Black-pr-3199.html)
Resevior:Swiftech Micro (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCRES-Micro-Rev-2-pr-4312.html)
Tubing:1/2 blue feser (http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-7-16-ID-5-8-OD-High-Flex-Tubing-Clear-UV-Blue-pr-4233.html)
Additives:PT Nuke (http://petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html),G11 (http://petrastechshop.com/peg11coadb4o.html)
I got a pretty good idea of what I'm doing i just need to learn more, i have been reading for a month straight on this, i just recently join the forums and i find it helpful for people to tell me whats good and bad, because sometime you read wrong.
I just needed to know about the coolant, i wanna run distilled like you told me conundrum with those 2 additives.
What loop should I do?
Pump<Res<Cpu Block<Radiator<pump????
Spawn-Inc
02-14-09, 01:44 AM
np.
as for the loop order you ALWAYS want the res/t-line before the pump so it has water to pump. after that it makes no significant difference. but if you can set it up as follows
res/t-line>pump>rad>cpu>res/t-line
not sure why you are getting the G11 coolant when you have the blue tubing. there is no mixed metals in that loop so no need for it.
Toaster2812
02-14-09, 03:26 AM
i thought the g11 helped with corrosion, even if it's not there i wanna be safe, and i liked the color, so i was ok with that, i am going to have blue tubing anyway, will hardly notice the color.
Is that going to get in the way with the PTNuke.?
Nebulous
02-14-09, 08:13 AM
No need for anti-corrosion additives as you're not mixing metals ( copper with aluminum). All you need is this:
just use distilled water and 2 drops of PT nuke (http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html).
Nothing else. The more crap you add to your distilled water you'll hinder the cooling properties of the water. Keep it simple.
Actually, if you are running straight distilled water, you may want to use the PT Nuke tailored for just that: http://www.petrastechshop.com/peptpcobi1.html
A bit of G11 isn't going to kill anything, but it will stain some of your stuff a bit. If you are using colored tubing, you have absolutely no need for it. As long as you have no aluminum, you will have no corrosion. There are no dissimilar metals to corrode.
As for loop routing, as was said, the t-line/res ideally need to be feeding the pump inlet mainly so that you don't run the pump dry when filling. Otherwise, use the shortest and easiest tube routing that makes sense. Order really doesn't matter much at all. Also remember that air rises, so don't leave air a place to get trapped easily. I always try to route my tubing in a roughly circular flow pattern from bottom to top and back to the bottom. I prefer to have my res at or as near the top as possible to make bleeding easier and faster without having to do case gymnastics to get the air out.
Toaster2812
02-14-09, 12:04 PM
ok, ty for all the help, my final question that i'm concerned about it t-line or resevior.
I don't want it to look bad and the thought of a tlin in this case to me seems like it will look outta place, but same with the res, and good suggestions to what looks the cleanest and doesn't harm the flow rates and cooling capabilities?
Buy a reservoir. its so easy and handle. I have the V1 micro res from Swiftech. My system is free of air within the hour w/ it. They arent much more, and make life EASY!
gomerpile
02-14-09, 01:57 PM
Myself i find antifreeze restorer workz wonderful.
Myself i find antifreeze restorer workz wonderful.
For what? If you don't have aluminum and copper/brass in the same loop, you have no need for anti-corrosives. It's just adding chemicals that don't do anything.
Axis
gomerpile
02-14-09, 02:46 PM
For what? If you don't have aluminum and copper/brass in the same loop, you have no need for anti-corrosives. It's just adding chemicals that don't do anything.
Axis
I waz not responding to corrosion in general, I use this for algae and as a additive for the cool ability. I have experienced in the past algae and coolent restore was available. But if that is a problem works for that too.
Edit I'd also like to add I cannot remember the last time I filled my reservoir with the antifreeze restorer
schmide
02-14-09, 05:23 PM
Ocelot urine
Nebulous
02-14-09, 05:30 PM
Ocelot urine
Hmm, have proof this works? :rolleyes:
I waz not responding to corrosion in general, I use this for algae and as a additive for the cool ability. I have experienced in the past algae and coolent restore was available. But if that is a problem works for that too.
Edit I'd also like to add I cannot remember the last time I filled my reservoir with the antifreeze restorer
I have no idea what might be in that but antifreeze in general doesn't prevent algae growth, nor does it increase the cooling ability of the water. It lowers the freezing point and slows corrosion.
Axis
gomerpile
02-16-09, 12:19 AM
I have no idea what might be in that but antifreeze in general doesn't prevent algae growth, nor does it increase the cooling ability of the water. It lowers the freezing point and slows corrosion.
Axisgo to the auto shop and read the label. It is not antifreeze and the information does say prevent algae build up in rad or should i say slime anyways I dont use antifreeze i use like mention. It works great and if corrosion is a problem it works for that too.
http://www.mpc-home.com/data/data-AFR-10.pdf
gomerpile
02-16-09, 12:38 AM
also like to add since using this I've had no slime algae, and the fluid does not evaporate as quickly.
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/6002/photo10015gn.jpgI have not filled in 2 year with the restorer
vBulletin® v3.8.7, Copyright ©2000-2012, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.