View Full Version : Are My Juices reacting?
03-03-09, 04:32 PM
I`ve got zalman coolant in my system only upon reading distilled water on the label I immediately thought 4 stage RO water as I used to have a need to produce 400Litres every 24 hours. Then I recalled Id already sold the unit Doh!
So I bought Feser Ultra Pure Water which is effectively the same stuff (ion & cation exchange unit at last phase of production)
Contacted zalman before and asked what they knew about using coolant with even purer forms of water and they said they had no research as to the possible benefits of purer forms.
Anyhow its been in for a month or so and as I thought, because theres little within the purer water for other molecules to bond with. it seems to be starting to line the whole system and the blue tint is defiantly beginning to clear as the water rejects the other substances within the solution.
No other visable reaction thus far.
Is it another pending boo boo to my novice collection?
03-03-09, 05:00 PM
is it a zalman system?
buying feser ultra pure water is pretty much buying snake oil. simply get distilled water from the local supermarket and your good to go. add 2 drops of pt nuke PHN if it's a system with just distilled water.
however if your using a zalman kit there is no doubt mixed metals at play and you need anti-corrosion coolant.
03-03-09, 05:31 PM
Yep I'm mixing my metals alright zalman res1+ + res2 WB5 NBWB, swiftech triple rad erm extra copper drive bay coolers XSPC 280 Block.
I think brass maybe the only one missing.
I started discount zalman and it grew when I blocked the 280.
then they were trying to give away the res2 so I grabbed that and removed more fans.
Using D5 vario to pull round this crazy loop with another 500lph pushing after rads.
must be 6 meter of pipe in it. (still if anyone wanted to steal it Id have plenty of time to buy a guard dog and train it to attack)
03-03-09, 05:37 PM
ah yes i remember your thread. you need to run distilled water, anti freeze and some kind of biocide.
i would go with Pentosin G11 and Pt nuke (http://www.petrastechshop.com/pepcobi1.html) and distilled water. i would mix it the way it says 1:9
03-03-09, 05:56 PM
thats a much cheaper combo. Should have not used the first bottle of zalman.
costs about twice the postage and packing LOL
My ignorance is good for the economy at least.
I`ve been snake oiled!
03-03-09, 06:12 PM
lol, everyone does at some point.
don't run antifreeze and biocide at the same time, nasty reactions can happen. Besides the antifreeze will act as a biocide anyways.
03-04-09, 04:21 PM
Does not compute?
in relation to using Pentison anyhow... I'm getting that confused brain wrong feeling again.
care to explain a little further?
(and no one`s really got my deal with the blue pigment starting to bind to the plastics because of the un-traceable hardness content of LAB grade water and action of pressure when flowing)
there`s no whitening or clouding just a degree of separation evident?
Its the anti corrosive and biocide I would put first in my juice selection?
Im reluctant to do anything until either the mixture clearly is reacting or just expired but whats best for next time is handy to know, I`ll be needing six liters when its time (was`nt a genius design consideration)
03-04-09, 04:43 PM
on my first loop i had crap growing in it only using antifreeze and distilled water, i added pt nuke and dropped the antifreeze and had no more issues.
03-04-09, 05:15 PM
thats why I chose the fesser snake oil water because of my fish breeding and RO production time lab grade water (biologically inert) and good clean practice seemed familiar territory.
(dont wash your hands enough and leave finger prints or cough even the introduction of tap water all introduce the basis for something to exploit the new found environment with heat and light)
there is`nt any specific biocide in zalman`s stuff anyhow just an anti corrosive (its so hostile I think anything biological would have a hard time getting started - im biological and I dont like going near it LOL)
If you properly maintain the system you will never have anything grow in it, change water at least every 6 months. Back in the day, I ran straight tap water for over 2 years with mixed metals and not a drop of algae or corrosion in the loop at all, but we're talking homemade gear from back in the mid 90's, so that really doesn't apply here save the mixed metal part. Most of the biocide and anti-corrosion stuff imo is bat poop, yes it'll help for a while, but the biocide loses it's power with-in a month or so as does anti-freeze albit not as fast as biocide but pretty fast due to low mixture rates. Corrosion takes a long time to come into play to the point of destroying your gear, at work our cooling system (Massive 800 gallon res, commerical grade chiller, and an 800 gpm pump) is completely mixed metal, half alu and half cu, has been for 20 years and still 0 corrosion in the system and the fluid is straight RV Anti-Freeze which has 0 anti-corrosion effect just lower freezing point than water.
03-04-09, 06:58 PM
every six months is not cracking news for me with my 6 litres.
think I may try some kind of RO water and antifreeze by the sounds of how this is shaping up.
(Like that Q66 speed in your sig lol
looks dangerous, gonna pick up a new board to hurt my Q66 more 3060`s all this board wants to try for size)
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