Some advice on a setup

[liftedcj7on44s]

Ok i have posted a few questions on what water cooling stuff to get. I am now finally ready to start getting stuff for my WC build. First off i already have a Swiftech Apogee GTZ. All my stuff will be going into a Thermaltake Armor. The armor is getting painted pearl white on the outside and black on the inside. I want my water setup to stand out but also be 100% functional. What i would like advice about is what rad i should get? I was looking over at Frozen CPU and saw the DD black ice Extreme triple rad. I want to use that rad if it is any good and mount it in the front drive bays. What color dye will go good against black? Also i need suggestions on a Pump And a Res. Will be cooling a Core i7 940 only, No GPU's in the loop.
Just thought about something. If i mount the Rad in the front with the fans pulling air from the front this is going to allow the hot air to enter the case. Would i be better off mounting the Rad at the top with the air exiting the case?

I will be overclocking the 940 heavily also so the setup must be as efficient as possible.

[OldSkool]

Ok i have posted a few questions on what water cooling stuff to get. I am now finally ready to start getting stuff for my WC build. First off i already have a Swiftech Apogee GTZ. All my stuff will be going into a Thermaltake Armor. The armor is getting painted pearl white on the outside and black on the inside. I want my water setup to stand out but also be 100% functional. What i would like advice about is what rad i should get? I was looking over at Frozen CPU and saw the DD black ice Extreme triple rad. I want to use that rad if it is any good and mount it in the front drive bays. What color dye will go good against black? Also i need suggestions on a Pump And a Res. Will be cooling a Core i7 940 only, No GPU's in the loop.
Just thought about something. If i mount the Rad in the front with the fans pulling air from the front this is going to allow the hot air to enter the case. Would i be better off mounting the Rad at the top with the air exiting the case?

I will be overclocking the 940 heavily also so the setup must be as efficient as possible.

I've no experience with that Rad, but I would definitely suggest mounting the rad in such a fashion that it pushes air out of the case.

As for the color liquid, yellow would be really neat to contrast the Black.

[liftedcj7on44s]

Thank's Oldskool. I saw someone here had a yellow loop and it looked great. I will wait for others opinions as well though.
Let me get this straight though. The res should be higher than the pump so the pump can never get starved for water and the rad can be pretty much anywhere correct?

[DarkFury]

black + white like the new look im doing =]

[liftedcj7on44s]

Black and white is my original plan. Hence why the outside of the case will be pearl white and the inside black. I originally was thinking of having a white loop but how can you make water white?

[axis01]

The BIX rads are suited for highspeed/high pressure fans. This means considerably more noise. If you'd like a much quieter system, while still getting good temps, i'd higly recommend the Swiftech MCR320. It will cool a I7 without a problem, use MUCH quieter fans, get pretty close to the temps of the BIX (2-4C), and will cost you half the price. For a CPU only loop, I doubt you could come close to maxing out just about any of the better triple rads. For pumps, the MCP355 and 655 (D5) are the most commonly used pumps and you can't go wrong with either of them. I don't recommend dyes at all. They make very nice colored tubing that is much easier on your parts and pump. Dyes have a habit of clogging up CPU blocks. I'd also recommend grabbing a NB block for your board. I hear the I7 NB can get very hot. Adding the NB into the loop would cost you 1-3C at most. Certainly wouldn't be a problem for a triple rad.

Axis

[Spawn-Inc]

if you use dye's go with feser view dye's.

pump and res - Swiftech MCP355 (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP-355-12v-DC-Pump-pr-3510.html) with XSPC Res top (http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic-Reservoir-for-Laing-DDC-pr-4123.html) is one of the best.

the only problem with that rad BI GTX is you need high pressure/high speed fans which means louder.

i would pay the bit extra and go feser triple 120mm rad (http://www.jab-tech.com/Feser-X-Changer-Triple-120mm-Xtreme-Performance-Radiator-pr-4278.html).


i would also recommend Jabtech or Petras tech shop for parts, good prices and excellent service.

[DarkFury]

use white tubing =]

[liftedcj7on44s]

well noise isnt something that concerns me really. I ran my 2 gtx295's at 100% fan speed 24/7 when i had them and the noise didnt bother me. I was looking at those feser rads also.
What about this. What color tubing would turn white under a UV light? I planned to use white Cathodes inside the case.

If you guys have not figured it out i am going for a pure sex looking setup. I will have a Navig station in about 3 weeks and all the non pretty stuff will be going on that. I just want something asthetically pleasing. I want white water though i know that!

Dark you beat my post. So i should just get some white tubing. This would be sweet that way i wont need any dyes.

[liftedcj7on44s]

Dont see any white tubing at Jab-Tech.
Ok i found some white tubing. It is feser active UV white. Its 3/8 inside diameter and 1/2 outside diameter. Dont i need 1/2 inside diameter to fit the 1/2 barbs in the apogee gtz?

[DarkFury]

same thing basically, just dip the end in hot water and it will expand.

you get thicker walls and better leak protection =]


^ lol just thought about what i typed.

[liftedcj7on44s]

LMAO Dark. After looking at the tubing it seems it turns blue under a UV light. So maybe i just might have to run a Non UV white light?

[blakem]

FYI... coming from experience in the past couple days....

Black Ice GTX's are BIG... i mean freaking BIG....

I had to send both my back beucase they wouldnt fit in my case....

go to www.hwlabs.com (DangerDen dont make them) and check the measures to make sure they will fit.... ;)

Also... the Black Ice series take HIGH Cfm to get good performance.... DD recommend (for me) not LESS then 70 Cfm....
If you dont want to have high CfM (more noise) then go with either a Fesser or a Thermochil, they can get great performance at less RPM

[DarkFury]

white CCFL'

[Spawn-Inc]

its hard enough to fit 7/16" id over 1/2" barbs let alone 3/8"...

if you can find 1/2" id tubing, go for that otherwise the GTZ ships with both 1/2" and 3/8" barbs.

[liftedcj7on44s]

yeah ive got both 3/8 and 1/2. I know in the automotive world that its not good to try and force smaller hose onto larger fittings as this causes the end of the hose to swell over time. But thats rubber hose so i dont know how the Hoses for PC water cooling react to that. Guess the tubing is some kind of urethane/plastic mix i suppose.

[downer]

It's not that bad fitting 3/8" over 1/2" as long as you boil the tubing. I used to use 3/8" Clearflex over 1/2". Some 1/2" barbs are a little harder to get it over though. 7/16" is preferable, unless you want a 'clampless' look.

Also all the 360 radiators perform pretty much the same. The Feser and Q-Power rads don't need fans that are quite as powerful, but for optimal performance you'd still want to go with a medium speed fan which aren't silent. I have a Black Ice GTX 360 myself and I'm happy with it. I'm using 120x38mm Panaflo L1A's (Low speed, 69CFM) Fans. The extra static pressure helps with the thicker rads, and if you use high speed fans the thicker rads do perform slightly better.

[liftedcj7on44s]

Ok i am getting ready to order the pump and the rad today. Want to make sure i am getting the best stuff for the money. For the pump i want the Swiftech MCP-355. And for the Rad im gonna grab the Swiftech MCR-320 which they have the "quiet power" one.
Now how would a DD D4 pump compare to the MCP-355?

What about the variable speed MCP-655? Is that a better pump than the 355?

[liftedcj7on44s]

Ok did some research on my own and found out the MCP-355 is a better pump. So with that in mind here is the list of what i will be ordering today.
Pump-Swiftech MCP-355
Reservoir-XPSC Res top or a Koolance TNK-120 Inline Reservoir????
Radiator-Swiftech MCR-320
Tubing- Feser 3/8 inside diameter Active UV tubing in White
Cpu Block-Swiftech Apogee GTZ which i already have.

Now i was browsing Northbridge blocks and didnt see one that would fit my board. I will be running a MSI X58 Eclipse SLI and i will also be getting EVGA X58 Classified shortly so i would like a block that would fit both.

Now coolant. Since the tubing is going to be white i dont need any dyes so i should just be able to run Distilled water. I know in the automotive world that straight water is not good for radiators heatercores and especially water pumps. Alot of people dont realize that antifreeze acts as a lubricant for the water pump as well as corrosion protection. So what should i add to the distilled water to prolong the life of the pump and radiator?

[Conumdrum]

355 and the res top. It increases flow and pressue due to redesigned channels.

Hold off on the NB till you see your NB temps under operation.

The pump needs just water. Add a few drops of PHN Nuke. The pump is plenty lubricated by the water on a tiny ceramic bearing. The radiator is copper/brass, car rads aluminum now a days a lot wear due to the high heat, pressures, and corrosion. Your rad won't wear out.

[liftedcj7on44s]

well i already know the northbridge on the MSi board runs pretty hot. At 4ghz on my i7920 the northbridge was hitting 76c.

[liftedcj7on44s]

Ok i still have not ordered anything yet. I need a clarification. Is this the right res for the MCP-355?
http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-Acrylic-Reservoir-for-Laing-DDC-pr-4123.html

I need to know ASAP because i will be ordering tonight.

[icebob]

yep that's what ya need

[Spawn-Inc]

yup

[liftedcj7on44s]

Thank you guys. ordered that along with the white tubing. Too bad i dont have a chip to run this on yet!

[liftedcj7on44s]

And here is the reason i am going with white tubing.
http://www.abload.de/img/_mg_8370dut.jpg

This tubing is 3/8 inside diameter but 5/8 outside diameter.
Its DD tubing.
http://www.dangerden.com/store/product.php?productid=374

[Spawn-Inc]

ya thats a nice rig but to bad its mixed metals..

[bryan_d]

ya thats a nice rig but to bad its mixed metals..

An no clamps... not even blingy Bitpower restrictors. :)

[liftedcj7on44s]

you dont really need clamps when you stretch 3/8 tubing over a 1/2 barb and especially since the tubing is 3/8ID and 5/8OD.

[Spawn-Inc]

you dont really need clamps when you stretch 3/8 tubing over a 1/2 barb and especially since the tubing is 3/8ID and 5/8OD.

it will leak over time though as the tubing stretches.

but i do seem to recall he used some special barbs that slightly cut into the tubing like a barb on a fish hook.

[liftedcj7on44s]

im not saying to not run clamps. I would never run without clamps personally. But in certain situations you can get by without them. Sort of like in the automotive world and plastic fuel lines. Alot of manufacturers heat the tube to go over the barb and thats it. The average car today runs on anywhere from 40-60 PSI. So there running upwards of 60PSI on a plastic hose without hose clamps on something that could potentially kill someone if it were to leak.

[Conumdrum]

im not saying to not run clamps. I would never run without clamps personally. But in certain situations you can get by without them. Sort of like in the automotive world and plastic fuel lines. Alot of manufacturers heat the tube to go over the barb and thats it. The average car today runs on anywhere from 40-60 PSI. So there running upwards of 60PSI on a plastic hose without hose clamps on something that could potentially kill someone if it were to leak.

Sure, in every world except the PC world it's okay. Your twisting the facts, politics is your new job methinks.

I like to think that any reason, any chance of a leak on my brand new $300 mobo will fry it is plenty of reason to use clamps.

Now, a water leak onto a piece of car frame material or a slight fuel leak onto a hot manifold is of not even of any significance on THIS FORUM, NONE at all. It's a PC watercool forum and prev experiances building rocket ships means garbage here.

I don't care. It's my PC and taking every precaution not to ruin anything.

I reply to this for one reason, to not fill the new guys heads that as a new builder they can not use clamps. Some fool will see this post someday and put 1/2ID over 1/2OD barbs and it will leak all over the place. It's irresponsible to say that without strong "Don't do this at home" unless you can afford it statements.