Warning: Machine Screws Destroy Radiators

[Resonance]

I haven't seen this fact in any guides yet, and it seems a fairly important thing for people new to watercooling to know, particularly as radiators are apparently shipped without any instructions or warnings:

The screw holes in radiators do NOT safely continue through the radiator, at least not on the XSPC ones, and if your screws are not cut to within 0.25" or so of the bottom of the hole in the outer metal, it will impact the water lines. Those lines are very fragile, and it only takes a few extra turns of the hand wondering why the screw doesn't look like it's descending to bite through the metal.

I am now the owner of a $130 XSPC RX480 doorstop. Don't let it happen to you.

Suggestion for any radiator designers that may be reading this: if you absolutely must put a water line under a screw hole, shield it with a little plastic or rubber plate, or at least tape a warning note to the thing.

I'm really annoyed at XSPC at the moment, but I have a feeling that the design flaw isn't just theirs. If someone knows of a radiator brand that doesn't do this, I'd consider that a major design advantage, given that the only way I have to mount my replacement purchase is going to be to carefully measure remaining length on a screw and then precisely Dremel off the end. Standard size screws will be unusable, given the impossibility of predicting the total length of an arbitrary combination of fan+vibration mats+shroud+radbox.

How the hell did everyone else solve this problem? I can't imagine that everyone else who bought a radiator had to custom cut all of their screws. Is there something really obvious about this that I'm missing?

[icebob]

I haven't seen this fact in any guides yet, and it seems a fairly important thing for people new to watercooling to know, particularly as radiators are apparently shipped without any instructions or warnings:

The screw holes in radiators do NOT safely continue through the radiator, at least not on the XSPC ones, and if your screws are not cut to within 0.25" or so of the bottom of the hole in the outer metal, it will impact the water lines. Those lines are very fragile, and it only takes a few extra turns of the hand wondering why the screw doesn't look like it's descending to bite through the metal.

I am now the owner of a $130 XSPC RX480 doorstop. Don't let it happen to you.

Suggestion for any radiator designers that may be reading this: if you absolutely must put a water line under a screw hole, shield it with a little plastic or rubber plate, or at least tape a warning note to the thing.

I'm really annoyed at XSPC at the moment, but I have a feeling that the design flaw isn't just theirs. If someone knows of a radiator brand that doesn't do this, I'd consider that a major design advantage, given that the only way I have to mount my replacement purchase is going to be to carefully measure remaining length on a screw and then precisely Dremel off the end. Standard size screws will be unusable, given the impossibility of predicting the total length of an arbitrary combination of fan+vibration mats+shroud+radbox.

How the hell did everyone else solve this problem? I can't imagine that everyone else who bought a radiator had to custom cut all of their screws. Is there something really obvious about this that I'm missing?

My XSPC came with a warning all written in red about that same matter, and so both of my swiftech and even my Magicool one, you sure you look at all the paperwork that came with your rad?. I feel sorry for you man but we learn from our mistake.... Home depot sells screw cutter for about 10$ same thing gonna happens with the fans...

[thideras]

Even after watercooling for a year or so, I put a screw right through my radiator, similar to what you did. I grabbed the wrong one and it was a bit longer than I thought. Got the whole system filled and the hole was at the bottom of the radiator, water everywhere.

[Spawn-Inc]

both my swifty rads came with that warning.

sorry to hear that, if you soak it in paint stripper you might be able to solder it and save it. you have nothing to loose.

i ALMOST did that to my second rad, i had 2 screws the same length, one worked fine and the second one scratch the paint of the tube and bent some fins.


i try to buy the right length so i don't have to cut them but a dremel works nice on them.


if you don't want to try to fix it i might buy it off you.

could you get a picture of the damage?

[Resonance]

My XSPC came with a warning all written in red about that same matter, and so both of my swiftech and even my Magicool one, you sure you look at all the paperwork that came with your rad?
No paperwork came with my rad. I purchased from jab-tech, and all I got was a nondescript cardboard box with the radiator and a packet of screws inside, and no additional documentation, papers, stickers, or anything.

I'll go out hunting for screw-cutters at Lowe's tomorrow.

[Resonance]

if you don't want to try to fix it i might buy it off you.

could you get a picture of the damage?

I really need a proper macro lens and a ring flash to do it, but I did the best I could first with a normal flash and then with a flashlight.

http://www.yourimage.name/TN170309/549213b0928cbcbaf034ed49f9252b9b.jpg (http://www.yourimage.name/image.php?id=549213b0928cbcbaf034ed49f9252b9b.jpg) http://www.yourimage.name/TN170309/29ffac228cbb4dfcbdc5a7d8a4aa93c5.jpg (http://www.yourimage.name/image.php?id=29ffac228cbb4dfcbdc5a7d8a4aa93c5.jpg)

[hokiealumnus]

HWLabs has the same design. Almost did the same thing but I noticed it hitting b/f cranking it down. My rad was also by itself in a nondescript box, but it only cost $30. Sorry that happened to you.

[Spawn-Inc]

the pics are good, that is pretty bad. what made you stop or notice it before putting in the other ones?


i think i could fix it if i really tried but it would be hard. it would also hurt efficiency.

[Conumdrum]

Warning, not being very very careful when your putting screws into a rad you can ruin a rad. Pay attention everyone. This is what can happen.

When I put my first rad and fans together, I had a flashlight and a thin piece of plastic and slowy put the screw in, squinting in the tiny space with my reading glasses on. Luckily as I did each screw as carefully as I could I didn't put a hole in my rad. Oh I also threaded each screw into the holes to make sure no holes or screws were bad.
Ohh I did measure the screw and the fan thickness first. Luckily I had been reading so much for 3 months or so and had read about this issue before I ordered my WC gear.

This is by far not the first punctured rad I have read about and I'm sorry for your loss. Sorry ya had to learn this way. Take it to a rad shop, bet they can fix it for $30 or so.

In fact on a rad I was prepping two weeks ago I bought screws from a HW store, and 3 of the 30 would not thread in properly. They would of ruined the hole if I had just been building stuff, I might of forced it. Glad I was so anal to check all the screws.

[Resonance]

the pics are good, that is pretty bad. what made you stop or notice it before putting in the other ones?
The screw made a clicking sound when I turned the handle, like I had just stripped it. I was expecting some kind of weird damage to the screw hole that I'd have to work around, but not that.


i think i could fix it if i really tried but it would be hard. it would also hurt efficiency.
Yeah, I'm just going to write it off as an expensive watercooling problem.

[hokiealumnus]

Don't just write it off...ship it to me, I'll see if a rad shop can fix it!

[Diggrr]

I've fixed that boo boo once using some JB Weld and a toothpick to cover the damaged area...just a thought, cheap to try it out, eh?
Plus it's not like a spot of JB Weld is blocking much airflow underneath a fan mounting tab.

JB Weld is the only one I'd try though, many 5 minute epoxy's are hygroscopic and won't stand up to water forever.

I made my shrouds from fiberglass in two halves so that I use regular fan screws to affix the fans to one half, then the rad to the other half using short case screws (I re-tapped the Swifty's holes to 6-32 thread). Took a long time to arrive at that solution, though I know not everyone can do the same...

And yeah, my MCR 320QP-Res came with a sheet explaining the long screw danger...with pictures for the Men whom don't like to read directions.

[jr1]

i'm pretty sure a radshop would be able to fix that one
i for sure would get it checked out before i wrote it off

[Nebulous]

My MCR320 didn't come with any warnings. It did, however, come with a few fan mounting screws.

Sorry for your loss and hope you get it replaced/repaired.

[thorilan]

No paperwork came with my rad. I purchased from jab-tech, and all I got was a nondescript cardboard box with the radiator and a packet of screws inside, and no additional documentation, papers, stickers, or anything.

I'll go out hunting for screw-cutters at Lowe's tomorrow.
dont bother.
jabtech needs to fix this issue. they failed to give you all the proper documentation.

[WonderingSoul]

I would think that you could easily put a blob of solder on the hole to seal it.

[zbo]

dont bother.


jabtech needs to fix this issue. they failed to give you all the proper documentation.

Agreed, you did nothing wrong so you shouldn't have to pay to fix it.

[dealmaster]

Don't just write it off...ship it to me, I'll see if a rad shop can fix it!

Or me!

[joedymueller]

would a nasty glob of silicone work?

i think a wooden shim under the fan tab during install would be a safe plan.. when you hit the wood stop screwing.

[henzo]

I wonder if it would have still happened if you were using a fan dampener (read small rubber washer or gasket for fan silencing)?

[jr1]

some solder i too think would fix it but it would have to be properly cleaned

[Resonance]

Agreed, you did nothing wrong so you shouldn't have to pay to fix it.
Well, technically I did do something wrong: I overdescended a screw. I doubt jab-tech is going to allow a return on equipment I damaged just because a warning page was missing, but I opened a ticket with them asking about it anyway. We'll see what happens.

If I can't return it, and someone wants to pay me half-price for it, I'm not opposed to mailing it out. I don't have the time to strip paint and play with a soldering iron, myself, I'm afraid.

[Resonance]

i think a wooden shim under the fan tab during install would be a safe plan.. when you hit the wood stop screwing.
I've got a little plastic insert I plan to use in place of the wood, but yes, that's definitely planned for next time. It's the kind of thing I wish I'd have known to do before I started.

[Resonance]

I wonder if it would have still happened if you were using a fan dampener (read small rubber washer or gasket for fan silencing)?
I was, actually. Two full-circumference silicone fan pads.