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elfboy999
01-22-02, 08:37 PM
I was wonderin if anybody out there had any idea on how to remove the heat plate from a k6/2 without harming the processor. I want to know this because i am theorizing a way to cool the chip far better and I need to know whats under it. I know, i know, sound like a stupid noob question but the help would be great.

Mike K
01-22-02, 08:44 PM
First off, Welcome to the forums
No questions r stupid, we all have to ask sometime

Heatplate? Do you mean heatsink? If so you can use a flathead screwdriver and press down and outwards on the clip and it should come off fairly easy. Someone else will be able to give better instructions. Its easy to do once youve done it a few times like me. Didnt know that k6-2s need that good cooling

repo man11
01-22-02, 08:49 PM
I've never tried, but I've read that they are very fragile with the plate removed. I remember one person posting that they had done it themselves, but they wouldn't reccomend anyone else try it. Don't worry about newbie questions, but this should probably go under AMD CPU's.
Without a doubt, if you're looking for a big speed increase, moving up to a socket A board is the way to go. If you're on a serious budget, and just want a reasonable speed increase, Tiger Direct has K6-2+ 450's on sale for $35.00. If your board can run it, this would give you a good boost for the money. The + series K6's have level 2 cache onboard, which speeds thing up quite a bit. They also run much cooler, because they are made with the .18 micron architecture.
Just some thoughts.

Resqme
01-22-02, 08:56 PM
What he means is the k6 cpus have a metal plate that covers the core of the chip, Yes i have read that people have taken of the plate and basicaly it will look like the duron and thunderbird chips under it. From what i have read the plate is glued in the 4 corners
as how hard it is to get of im not sure never tried it. But i would be very very carefull trying to pry it of

Good luck

Kingslayer
01-22-02, 09:22 PM
Actually it is glued on around the whole thing. That little indent that runs around the whole cap? That's where the glue is. You can remove it with a screw driver and pry up if your VERY vareful or use a razor blade to cut the glue if your VERY careful.

eobard
01-22-02, 09:30 PM
Originally posted by repo man11
I've never tried, but I've read that they are very fragile with the plate removed. I remember one person posting that they had done it themselves, but they wouldn't reccomend anyone else try it.

Yes I have and no I wouldn't. When I did it I had no advice and really gouged up my chip but fortunately the damage was cosmetic. Did recommend it prior to someone else loosing a chip after following my advice. I can't specifically blame the cap removal but that could have been part (or all) of the problem. If you're really intent on removing it you need to cut the epoxy at the corners and only the corners There are surface monuted components on the chip top and if you dig in deeply you could rip them off and kill the chip. Here's a diagram of what you will find underneath. Once the glue in the corner is gone the top should pop off easily enough.

rogerdugans
01-22-02, 10:07 PM
I also have removed the heat spreader from a K6-2 450. And I also don't recommend the procedure! But I did it once and will probably do it again:)

Glue at 4 corners, and it is not easy to cut, but use a sharp blade and take your time.

IMPORTANT NOTE: I burnt mine up right away by lack of attention to detail! When the heat spreader is removed the chip is considerably shorter than before: YOU NEED TO MAKE CERTAIN to get the hsf in good, solid contact with the chip!

Good luck if you choose to continue- and have a spare chip ready! <LOL>

repo man11
01-22-02, 10:15 PM
Now I have a question. Did you guys get anymore speed out of the chip after you did this?

eobard
01-22-02, 10:28 PM
My 450 will do 600mhz with a combination of increased voltage (core and io), no more cap/heat spreader, a socket A heatsink, heavy duty fannage and a grounding wire on my heatsink. How much of that is from removing the cap/heat spreader I couldn't tell you though, sorry.

rogerdugans
01-22-02, 10:29 PM
I was installing linux when my chip burnt up:mad:
I had hoped to go from 450@500 to 450@550, but since my HEATSINK WAS TOO LOOSE I don't know!

repo man11
01-22-02, 10:46 PM
I was asking because I'm picking up a 100 mhz socket 7 board for my backup. I have a K6-2+ 475 that I've run at 500 on an old Asus board. But that was as high as it can go on that board (6x83). I've heard that the + series are good for over 600, and I'm going to see how high I can get it to go. But I'm not going to go overboard either. I think 6x100 ought to be easy, I'll see what else I can get out of it with soft FSB. The plus CPU's run much cooler, so I think I'll be ok with the plate on. Thanks for the answer.

eobard
01-22-02, 11:18 PM
Something else to consider is the composition of the cap. I heard from one or two places that it has an outer coating of zinc around the aluminum, which isn't the best material for removing heat. If you keep it on you may just want to lap it instead.

repo man11
01-22-02, 11:27 PM
Sounds like a good idea.

elfboy999
01-23-02, 04:46 PM
the reason i bring this up is because im testing a homemade hsf and it doesn't fit well over the heat plate. i need just a slightly thiner chip. It should work wel without the plate.