Starting my first loop...

[Aynjell]

So, I've bought a QP360 for my ATCS 840. Supposedly it's not compatible, but this thread argues otherwise:

http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?p=1033901334

Since it's one of the cheapest and best performing for the dollar rads that I've read about, I'm pretty confident in buying it (I can always send it back if it doesn't fit). As soon as I get it, I'll test fit it.

oddly enough, the cooling power isn't really that big of a deal for me. I just need to find a good excuse to fill in some of the front bay drive areas because the blanking plates for the ATCS 840 just flat out SUCK. Way to go for tool less jobs, they never work. Almost ever serious mod I've seen of this case worked to fill those bays for this exact reason. Even coolmeisters case filled all the bays and while I don't recall if he listed this reason, I'm sure it was for that.

So where does this come in? Well, I'm going to order some fan controllers, two, to be exact, to control my fans, and then I'm going to order up block, a D-Tek Fuzion V2, to be precise... seems to be one of the best performing for the dollar.

Now, here's where I don't know what to do:

I need a good fan controller and a good 5.25 bay reservoir, if it includes a pump, awesome, if not, I'll need a pump to use. If the reservoir uses to 5.25 bays, that's even better. If it's only one, I'll buy another dvd drive. :D

Anyway, if you guys can help me out with making this great case better by adding to it's cooling potential, I'll be ever grateful. Also, I'm looking for hwich barbs are the best. Wanting 1/2 fittings if I can... I like the look of big tubes.

Cliffnotes:

Need reservoir, fan controllers, pump reccomendations. Pump res combos are probably even better for me since I don't have to mount a pump somewhere. Also, what barbs should I be using?

[EarthDog]

Rad/res combo would be my preference, but that is too late.

Scythe Kazemaster for fans.

I think DDen has a 5.25 bay res

MCW655-b for the pump and you are on your way.

[hokiealumnus]

Res: Assuming the spinning thingy doesn't hinder flow, these (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekekspreac.html)look neat (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ekwaeksprepl.html) and take up two bays. A bit on the pricey side though. Here's a single (http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bi5bayresbla.html) that's much more reasonable. None of those have pumps. I haven't used any of them, just pulling stuff from sidewinder. :)

Controller: If your fans have any horsepower, go with the Sunbeam Rheobus Extreme. I absolutely love mine. It does its job and does it well. FWIW, when I had one of the fans hooked up to a MB header to view RPM, it was pretty darn precise too; I could get to a set RPM point every time I tried.

Pump: MCP355 if going low profile, MCP655 vario if not.

[jr1]

the mcp355 with the xspc top http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsladdctop.html is acording to my memory actually a tad better than the mcp655
the xspc top is bought seperatly and is replacing the stock top on it

[Aynjell]

the mcp355 with the xspc top http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsladdctop.html is acording to my memory actually a tad better than the mcp655
the xspc top is bought seperatly and is replacing the stock top on it

Easy transplant? Also, does that allow metal barbs?

[jr1]

yep it's 4 screws and off it goes
then put on the new one using the provided screws
you need to reuse the sealant between the pump and top ( an oring if i remember right )
and last yes you have to get barbs for it
it's standard g1/4 threads in the xspctop so you can use whatever barbs you prefere

[iLoki]

yup, I have an XSPC res top for my ddc and its very nice, makes bleeding a cinch. I'm using EK fatboy high flow 1/2" fittings with 7/16" ID tubing. It took me all of 30 seconds to get the old top off and the new one on.

*Edit* OOH and it comes with a blue tailed LED, and the top has two holes in it for LED's, I'm going to get a couple of red LED's to use with my new build.

[hokiealumnus]

yup, I have an XSPC res top for my ddc and its very nice, makes bleeding a cinch. I'm using EK fatboy high flow 1/2" fittings with 7/16" ID tubing. It took me all of 30 seconds to get the old top off and the new one on.

*Edit* OOH and it comes with a blue tailed LED, and the top has two holes in it for LED's, I'm going to get a couple of red LED's to use with my new build.
Sidewinder sells them, already connected to a molex, LED's shaped perfectly and pre-sleeved. Ordered green ones for my res top.

Though I think he's looking for a res to go in his 5.25" bays, so the XSPC top might be a better fit than the res top. :beer:

[Aynjell]

What barbs should I be using? What are supposedly be read?

[Spawn-Inc]

i like DD fat boys with 7/16" or 1/2" tubing. or any normal metal barb.

[Aynjell]

i like DD fat boys with 7/16" or 1/2" tubing. or any normal metal barb.


Fat boys is what I was looking at. Figured they'd be good since they're probably wider and cause a tighter fit, by the sounds of it. Which I'd want. If I'm going water, I wanna avoid as many issues as possible.

[Spawn-Inc]

it can be a real pain using 7/16 on them if the 2 parts are close.

i have a t line 3" away from my pump inlet. i also have that same t line another 3" away from my gpu block. it was very hard to get the tubing on. i was worried about breaking my card actually.

[Aynjell]

it can be a real pain using 7/16 on them if the 2 parts are close.

i have a t line 3" away from my pump inlet. i also have that same t line another 3" away from my gpu block. it was very hard to get the tubing on. i was worried about breaking my card actually.

So did I do bad by getting the swiftech rad? Would anybody else of reccomended I get something else?

[Spawn-Inc]

no, i never said anything about swiftech rads being bad.

They are the best price/performance you can buy. i own 2 MCR320's for my 2 single block loops.

unless i need to build a pc with small size then i buy swiftech rads. e.g. a thermochill rad (going to use a tripke 120mm size) is more then twice the cost of a MCR320 rad. i would just buy 2 mcr320's over 1 thermochill and get more cooling for a cheaper price. the only problem is space.

[iLoki]

thats why I would go either Feser or XSPC (I am putting an XSPC RX360 into my new loop, there will be temps posted) if you want to go high end like that.

That being said I have used a Swiftech MCR220 for several months, and kept my QX6850 at 1.6v under 60C with a push/pull fan config with medium/low speed fans, they are by no means a bad radiator. They are excellent for the price :D

[Aynjell]

thats why I would go either Feser or XSPC (I am putting an XSPC RX360 into my new loop, there will be temps posted) if you want to go high end like that.

That being said I have used a Swiftech MCR220 for several months, and kept my QX6850 at 1.6v under 60C with a push/pull fan config with medium/low speed fans, they are by no means a bad radiator. They are excellent for the price :D

That's what I want to hear. I don't care about ultra high end. It's a stupid idea to me. If I wanted to spend 500$ to OC, I'd spend it on the better chip. You buy low end chips to get low cost improvements, high performance setups.

[Aynjell]

A quick update, I had a credit coming from newegg so ordered up the MCP355, and I'll probably be ordering the XSPC top asap, so I can bolt that puppy onto it, but I do want to make 100% sure that they're compatible parts. I believe they are, but I am anal about making sure of these things.

After that, all I'll need are barbs, a block, and tubing, so roughly 120$ to go. :)

[jr1]

i take it you already got a res
and exelent choise of pump by the way
i do have one myselve without the xspctop to it but still a greate pump even without the top

[Spawn-Inc]

ya those are the right parts.

are you getting the res top or plain top for it?

[Aynjell]

ya those are the right parts.

are you getting the res top or plain top for it?

Only real reason I want it is because it lets me pick the barbs I wanna use. this is the reason I bought the MCP355 in the first place, this part. Then I found out it PERFORMS BETTER, and that pretty much ended it for me... best pump money can buy is MCP355 and XSPC top. :D

This guy!
http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/yhst-65556269779593_2052_82229317 (http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsladdctop.html)

Here's my current shopping list:

1x The Aforementioned Top
2x Sunbeam Rheobus (http://www.petrastechshop.com/surhfanspcob.html)
8x Fat Boy Barbs 3/8" OD (http://www.petrastechshop.com/dadepofbofig1.html)
1x D-Tek Fuzion v2 (http://www.petrastechshop.com/dfuv2uncpuwa.html)

I haven't picked a reservor yet... I want one though because I want to fill up my bays in this case. The toolless blank panels are half the motivation to go water, actually.

Anyway, prolly getting a single slot XSPC Reservoir.

barbs and worm drive clamps are still the best way to go, right? Also, anything else I should be adding to my setup?

I also wanna buy the following parts so I can mount the pump without drilling any holes:

1x Z Bracket (http://store.yahoo.com/yhst-65556269779593/uzbrf12fanmo.html)
1x 3G Bracket (http://store.yahoo.com/yhst-65556269779593/u3gbrreflad5.html)

Also, should I be going 1/2" or 3/8" OD on the barbs? (I know I gotta go with 1/4" to mount to the block, res, etc, but on the barb side not sure what size to use)

[jr1]

for block rad and pump you can pick whatever size you want
i prefere 1/2" barbs but that's me
i would be kind of suprized if you wouldn't be able to pick your choise of barbs for the xspc res too
the G 1/4" is just the threading you mount the barbs to the block and so on with

[Aynjell]

for block rad and pump you can pick whatever size you want
i prefere 1/2" barbs but that's me
i would be kind of suprized if you wouldn't be able to pick your choise of barbs for the xspc res too
the G 1/4" is just the threading you mount the barbs to the block and so on with

I know that. But is there reasonable gains to be had by running the thicker 1/2" tubes? Or should I be sticking with 3/8" to save a bit of space?

[Aynjell]

Oh wow, I just read about compression fittings. Apparently they're "The ****(TM)"...

Any objections? They'd sure look nicer than worm drive clamps. It's 35$ more to go compression fittings, and if they truly are safer, I can't compromise on it.

[hokiealumnus]

They're no safer than barbs + clamps, but they sure do look nice. Too rich for my blood though. :)

[Aynjell]

They're no safer than barbs + clamps, but they sure do look nice. Too rich for my blood though. :)

I'm looking forward to htis more and more.

[Spawn-Inc]

they perform the same as far as leaks go, or lack of leaks :)

you spend more money but it does look cleaner. but they are huge, i could only use them on my rads. on both my blocks the barbs are to close for me to get 2 of them on. as it is with the dtek you need worm/gear clamps with 1/2"ID 3/4"OD tubing.


but they do sell 45 fittings which it would then work with.

[Aynjell]

they perform the same as far as leaks go, or lack of leaks :)

you spend more money but it does look cleaner. but they are huge, i could only use them on my rads. on both my blocks the barbs are to close for me to get 2 of them on. as it is with the dtek you need worm/gear clamps with 1/2"ID 3/4"OD tubing.


but they do sell 45 fittings which it would then work with.

Are you saying 45 degree fittings that angle outward?

[Conumdrum]

Bitspower makes 45 and 90 rotary fittings that swivel. I have some, very nice stuff. You screw the G1/4 part into the block, rad, res whatever, it has G1/4 on the end. This allows you to move the fat (about 1") part of a 3/4OD comprssion fitting way in what ever angle you like. The fittings will also hold a standard barb, which is what I do. You can see one off my rad and two on my GPU if you zoom in on this pic.

Biggest problem is a rotary and a compression fitting gets you close if not over $20 per connection, adds up really fast.
Linky.
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=346_393&sort=20a&page=5
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg49/Conumdrum_2007/Banchettoleft.jpg

[Spawn-Inc]

Are you saying 45 degree fittings that angle outward?

ya you need 2 45's , might get away with 1

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=570510

[Aynjell]

ya you need 2 45's , might get away with 1

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=570510

These'd work, right? http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393&products_id=24260

[Spawn-Inc]

it should work. i'm pretty sure i've seen someone with it on. but can't say for sure.

[Aynjell]

Awesome. I just ordered the XSPC top and a bracket that mounts the MCP355 to a 120MM fan, of all things. Since I have a 120MM fan mount in the bottom of my case actually... several of them, it's the perfect mounting solution for me. Or hell, I could mount it to the back 120MM fan also, which I just might do since it'd mean shorter lines throughout (by several feet if you add it all up).

Shorter lines make for better cooling, I'm assuming, right?

At this point, theoretically, I'll need barbs (bitspower compression fittings with some 45 degree bitspower fittings), some tubing (will probably go masterkleer from petras), a CPU block (definitely going Fuzion v2 since this cooling system is actually being designed for a core i7 systme I'm going to be building in then ext few months), and if I really wanted to, a reservoir, which I think I will. I'm really getting excited to learn something new! :D

Another thing I want to factor into the project is a window for my ATCS 840, and some black lights. There's not a chance in hell I wont' make changes so I can't monitor the system at a glance. I need to be able to look in, and see that there's no drips or dribbles sitting on my motherboard or video card.

I'll probably go with purple UV dye for the coolant and prolly blue uv fans to make it look spiffy. :D

I hope I'm not making any obviously newb mistakes and throwing together a bunch of stuff that "sounds good" but will be a ****ty sum ofi t's parts. That's why I'm turning to you guys for input. I think I have an idea of what's going on but I know I don't. As long as I get teh consensus approval, I'm all go.

[Spawn-Inc]

shorter loops are better yes, but don't make a tight bend to save a couple of inch's of tubing. the kink will hurt more then the extra bit of tubing.

and also make sure to get the right tubing for the right compression fittings.

eg. 1/2"ID 3/4"OD fittings with the same size tubing. you can't go with 1/2"ID 5/8" OD. it will leak.

[Aynjell]

shorter loops are better yes, but don't make a tight bend to save a couple of inch's of tubing. the kink will hurt more then the extra bit of tubing.

and also make sure to get the right tubing for the right compression fittings.

eg. 1/2"ID 3/4"OD fittings with the same size tubing. you can't go with 1/2"ID 5/8" OD. it will leak.

Yep yep! I'm making careful sure to get all 1/2"ID 3/4"OD stuff, I probably linked the wrong stuff in the thread. I haven't ordered any of the fittings stuff yet but when I do I'll probably do it all at once to make sure I get all teh right stuff. So far I've only ordered the non fitting specific stuff:

QP 320, XSPC Laing DDC top, MCP355 pump, and a UN Bracket Z2 (which mounts a MCP355 to a 120mm fan).

My next order will probably include the block, fittings, and tubing. I'm hoping petras will get the block in stock because I don't care to order from performance-pcs anymore. I really like the service I get from petras... but with this order they just didn't ahve the stuff I needed. :\

[Spawn-Inc]

Yep yep! I'm making careful sure to get all 1/2"ID 3/4"OD stuff, I probably linked the wrong stuff in the thread. I haven't ordered any of the fittings stuff yet but when I do I'll probably do it all at once to make sure I get all teh right stuff. So far I've only ordered the non fitting specific stuff:

QP 320, XSPC Laing DDC top, MCP355 pump, and a UN Bracket Z2 (which mounts a MCP355 to a 120mm fan).

My next order will probably include the block, fittings, and tubing. I'm hoping petras will get the block in stock because I don't care to order from performance-pcs anymore. I really like the service I get from petras... but with this order they just didn't ahve the stuff I needed. :\

wasn't sure so thought i would say it anyway.

ya petras is a great shop, but to bad they don't have stock. sidewinders or jabtech are other good places.

[hokiealumnus]

shorter loops are better yes, but don't make a tight bend to save a couple of inch's of tubing. the kink will hurt more then the extra bit of tubing.
I can vouch for that. Went quite a bit too long from the NB block to the res. Meh, it ended up looking different at least. Well, that's what I try and tell myself. :screwy:

[Aynjell]

So I've finalized my loop up to one last thing: The reservoir.

To start with, I'll be cooling my CPU with a swiftech Apogee GTZ (http://store.yahoo.com/yhst-65556269779593/swapgtzcpuwa.html), which apparently is almost if not as good as the D-Tek Fuzion v2 (possibly better, I've seen the reviews swing either way), but has the primary advantage of giving me freedon in choosing my fasteners, and since I'm wanting to go with bitspower compression fittings, I'm stuck with the Apogee GTZ, or spending more money on the D-Tek to get hte fittings to fit. Winner? Apogee, by 20$, especially when it performs as well as the D-Tek in most cases. I'll be purchasing it when I purchase the tubing and fittings.

We already know I'm getting a 320QP and a swiftech MCP355 (already shipped, got the radiator now, waiting on MCP355 parts).

Then comes the fittings (http://store.yahoo.com/yhst-65556269779593/dadepocofig1.html), I really like the bitspower fittings I've selected. They're 1/2|3/4 compression fittings. I like them so much it changed which block I'd use, although between the two there's scant difference in performance. I'll prolly be getting masterkleer tubing as well, or tygon, that'll be decided when I go to buy.

So now here's where I'm stuck: what rez should I get, what do you reccomend? Doesn't matter where it mounts, I just need a good reservoir that won't cause bubbles to get into the loop... or do i even want a reservoir for my cpu only loop?

[EarthDog]

A res is a res is a res....

Swiftech Micro should be just fine.

[Aynjell]

A res is a res is a res....

Swiftech Micro should be just fine.

I had my eye on that one. Supposedly it being taller than it is long helps prevent bubbles etc.

[jr1]

could also use the xspc restop for the mcp355
found here http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsretopforla.html
that would eliminate the need for an " external " res eg microres or bayres since it would be mounted on the pump
another advantage is that it makes the pump better than stock and that it will shorten the tubing a little

[Aynjell]

could also use the xspc restop for the mcp355
found here http://www.petrastechshop.com/xsretopforla.html
that would eliminate the need for an " external " res eg microres or bayres since it would be mounted on the pump
another advantage is that it makes the pump better than stock and that it will shorten the tubing a little

Already ordered the other xspc top. :( the advantage of the altter is also cheaper had I of not ordered the xspc top. Oh well, I'm getting a different reservoir, no harm done really and truly. How much does it actually weaken the loop to have a reservoir?

[jr1]

for my part it doesn't weaken it at all
i'm using the microres myselve and i love it since it hardly take any space at all
and it also do make the bleeding of the system easier

edit
easier than with a t-line that should be

[Spawn-Inc]

Already ordered the other xspc top. :( the advantage of the altter is also cheaper had I of not ordered the xspc top. Oh well, I'm getting a different reservoir, no harm done really and truly. How much does it actually weaken the loop to have a reservoir?

res's make little to no difference in performance.


you NEED a res OR t-line.


i would just grab the swiftech micro res. otherwise the XSPC res top for your pump would have been best for space and performance.

[Aynjell]

res's make little to no difference in performance.


you NEED a res OR t-line.


i would just grab the swiftech micro res. otherwise the XSPC res top for your pump would have been best for space and performance.

Yeah, already made the mistake of getting the small top for my pump... I suppose I'm still glad I did, since you might have to deal with vortexes with the res top. This way the vortex isn't near a pump that "shouldn't be run dry" and might be easier to control. Funny though, all the parts I bought were swiftech. SHould have got a kit!

[Spawn-Inc]

i guess, but you wouldn't get compression fittings or a triple rad.

They seem to be somewhat behind. they don't offer a kit with their MCR320 or have a mcr420... i would love a set or 3 of those!

[Aynjell]

i guess, but you wouldn't get compression fittings or a triple rad.

They seem to be somewhat behind. they don't offer a kit with their MCR320 or have a mcr420... i would love a set or 3 of those!

PEtra's ultimate kit is 270 and has the triple rad. Just no compression fittings.

[Spawn-Inc]

i read your last post to fast... i thought you said you should have gotten a swiftech kit.

[Aynjell]

It's finished now... i've ordered the swiftech GTZ. I just need fittings and tubing and the reservoir, which is another 100$. And on top of that, I've decided I want an NZXT sentry LX, which just looks sexy to me... and since I'll have 5 fans working on my radiator, it works out perfectly.

So so far:

Laing DDC w/ XSPC non-res top
Swiftech QP-320 radiator
Swiftech Apogee GTZ

Still need:

8xCompression Fittings
15x feet of tubing
Swiftech Reservoir (Mini)
Fluid Additive (Probably purple)

Still Want:
NZXT Sentry LX
3x LED fans for my ATCS 840 (230MM)
3x LED Yate Loons
Window Kit for ATCS 840 (I refuse to run water without being able to see it at a glance)

[Aynjell]

The bracket cost me some 18$, but that's one less case mod I have to do, and a little bit nicer of an installation process, so it was well worth it if you ask me. :)

I'll take pictures of teh radiator when I get some fans on it. :D I'm thinking blue led yate loons, no objections? Should I order up some grommets to go on it, would that help at all with noise?

Parts purchased off of newegg and performance-pcs.com

[Aynjell]

Okay everybody, I'm at the final step of my project: aside from having stupidly huge and cool looking tubing, is 1/2" tubing beneficial when all your inlets are 1/4" (half the size)? or should I be moving to 3/8"? I know with air you wouldn't want to do something like this because of the turbulence it would cause, but with air you can direct it a bit more purposefully.


Seems like 1/2" isn't beneficial aside from allowing more flow... but 3/8 should be sufficient. Providing they cost the same, which would you pick?

[hokiealumnus]

G1/4 is actually just about 1/2" diameter. I believe the 1/4" is referencing the radius. See the chart on this page (http://www.newmantools.com/taps/bsp.htm). The G1/4 tapping drill size is to be 29/64". Since they're the same price, I'd go for 1/2". Well, I'd go for (and went for) 7/16", for a nice tight fit. What you do go for is really a personal choice though. The difference as far as flow rate between the two is very minimal (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=515368).

[Aynjell]

G1/4 is actually just about 1/2" diameter. I believe the 1/4" is referencing the radius. See the chart on this page (http://www.newmantools.com/taps/bsp.htm). The G1/4 tapping drill size is to be 29/64". Since they're the same price, I'd go for 1/2". Well, I'd go for (and went for) 7/16", for a nice tight fit. What you do go for is really a personal choice though. The difference as far as flow rate between the two is very minimal (http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=515368).

I had figured as much, and I've got plenty of room when it comes to case room since I've got a ATCS 840, it's frakking HUGE.

[Aynjell]

Has the GTZ arrived? Check.

Now I need barbs, tubing, and a reservoir, and then I'm good to go.

[Conumdrum]

Fatboy barbs, also known as renamed Bitspower barbs, Swifttech V2 res, and Primochill LRT tubing. Hose/screw clamps. Petras PHN Nuke and distilled water. Your done.

[Perseus]

The functional reason for fatboys is to help with immediate tight turns. If you don't have that to consider, and want the added security of slightly longer barbs you can run without the FB's. If you're mating LRT with the correct OD barb, worm clamps aren't required, unless you just like the industrial look. ;) LRT 1/2-3/4 has a slightly smaller than listed ID, so for ease of install you'll need to hot-soak it. The resulting fit is surpisingly tight and secure on a multi-ring barb. If you're paranoid, like any good water cooler, slap some nylon clamps on.

Good luck and hopes that you don't have a close encounter with Mr. Drippy during install, Aynjell. :beer:

[Aynjell]

The functional reason for fatboys is to help with immediate tight turns. If you don't have that to consider, and want the added security of slightly longer barbs you can run without the FB's. If you're mating LRT with the correct OD barb, worm clamps aren't required, unless you just like the industrial look. ;) LRT 1/2-3/4 has a slightly smaller than listed ID, so for ease of install you'll need to hot-soak it. The resulting fit is surpisingly tight and secure on a multi-ring barb. If you're paranoid, like any good water cooler, slap some nylon clamps on.

Good luck and hopes that you don't have a close encounter with Mr. Drippy during install, Aynjell. :beer:


I dumped the idea of fat boys a while ago. I've decided to go with compression fittings.

[Perseus]

I dumped the idea of fat boys a while ago. I've decided to go with compression fittings.

Good choice, sir. You'll be very pleased with the results. :attn:

[Conumdrum]

Fatboys are regular barbs, just fatter, shinier and very good sharp edges to grasp the ID of the hose. Maybe your thinking of bitspower swivel fittings? They are the best (for now) 45 and 90 deg bends. In tests they are almost neglegeble to flow reduction. They look sweet too, just wish they cost less.

[Aynjell]

Fatboys are regular barbs, just fatter, shinier and very good sharp edges to grasp the ID of the hose. Maybe your thinking of bitspower swivel fittings? They are the best (for now) 45 and 90 deg bends. In tests they are almost neglegeble to flow reduction. They look sweet too, just wish they cost less.

What? I have no idea what anybody is talking about anymore.

I've decided to buy compression fittings and 1/2 tubing. I also need a reservoir and then I'm done. The kit is sitting in a pile on my desk right now.

[Perseus]

Fatboys are regular barbs, just fatter, shinier and very good sharp edges to grasp the ID of the hose.

You're right. I bought a set of what was advertised as "fatboy" barbs about a year+ ago, and they look nothing like what they're calling fatboy barbs now. They look just like these (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_342&products_id=21503), but with rings.

What DD is calling fatboys now appear to be very close to these (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393&products_id=23694) rebranded. Ah well, compressions are better in most respects anywho. ;)

[Spawn-Inc]

You're right. I bought a set of what was advertised as "fatboy" barbs about a year+ ago, and they look nothing like what they're calling fatboy barbs now. They look just like these (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_342&products_id=21503), but with rings.

What DD is calling fatboys now appear to be very close to these (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_346_393&products_id=23694) rebranded. Ah well, compressions are better in most respects anywho. ;)

ya, it's just rebranded and cheaper, stupid bits power.

[Perseus]

ya, it's just rebranded and cheaper, stupid bits power.

Yeah, BP's milking it, but good. However, I'm still very grateful to the them for figuring out that 1/2-3/4 folks wanted to use compressions too. Have you been watching Koolance lately? Their selection of fittings is started to be fairly nice too, and a bit cheaper. The barbs I got with my sensors are fairly attractive (they look like they're titanium coated with red silicon O-rings), and functional. I love competition! :D

[Aynjell]

Right now I'm torn between a biocide and a killcoil. In theory, a killcoil and some good distilled water is sufficient, right?

If so that's the path I want to take. I'm also considering on my first rebuild to going with solid black tubing and while that's bad for seeing into your loop I just think it looks kick ass. I figure if it's good for the first 2 or 3 months I can switch over and not worry myself about it and just have a clean looking system. :)

[Conumdrum]

A killcoil and distilled is all ya need. Black tubing is fine, you still have a res/tline to check water levels.

[Aynjell]

A killcoil and distilled is all ya need. Black tubing is fine, you still have a res/tline to check water levels.

Awesome. I think that's what I ultimately want to do then!

[Perseus]

Right now I'm torn between a biocide and a killcoil. In theory, a killcoil and some good distilled water is sufficient, right?

Consider two, if you're of a mind. Due to the way silver works in a loop, and depending on your volume of coolant, it takes a while for those needed ions to reach the proper concentration. Two allows this process happen more quickly.

[Aynjell]

Consider two, if you're of a mind. Due to the way silver works in a loop, and depending on your volume of coolant, it takes a while for those needed ions to reach the proper concentration. Two allows this process happen more quickly.

Two kill coils, eh?

Okay, so one after my pump and 1 before my reservoir, that sound good?

[Perseus]

It doesn't really matter all that much where you place them. Just slap them in somewhere. ;)

[Aynjell]

Ordered 2 kill coils and 15 feet of 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing, and will be ordering some barbs tonite. After that, just need a reservoir, and some fans, which I'll most likely be getting for my birthday on the 30th. Sucks to have to wait, but I really shouldn't spend anymore money if I can help it.

[Aynjell]

Ordered a window kit so I can observe and monitor the water cooling loop. I'll be having a local guy do the cutting and drill and mounting... he's pretty pro at this sort of thing. Naturally once it's all setup I'll of course post pictures.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/7573/win-133/Lian_Li_V1XXX_Series_Antec_1200_Cooler_Master_840_ Custom_DIY_Bolt-On_Full_Window_Kit_508_x_438mm.html?tl=g42c353s850

^^^ Link to Window Kit ^^^

www.losias.net

^^^ Link to local modder with more tools, more skill, and more skill with aforementioned tools ^^^

[Aynjell]

Ordered reservoir, teflon tape, and fans.

Just gotta order dye and the barbs.

[Perseus]

Be careful about what you toss in your in your loop in terms of dye, Aynjell. I've seen enough anecdotal data to think that there really is a high degree of risk in using dye.

[Aynjell]

Be careful about what you toss in your in your loop in terms of dye, Aynjell. I've seen enough anecdotal data to think that there really is a high degree of risk in using dye.

Can anybody reccomend against petras dye?

http://www.petrastechshop.com/peuvreddye1.html

[jediman]

i don't have any experience watercooling other than second hand. But from what i can see is don't use dye unless you are willing to deal with a possibly terribly terribly messed up loop

[Perseus]

I use red UV tubing and a UV reactive bayres. There are other, safer options if you want some color in your loop, Aynjell.

Edit: Also, if your barbs are modern, with recessed O-rings, plumbers tape is superfluous. Of the 18 barbs in my loop none have p-tape.

[Aynjell]

I use red UV tubing and a UV reactive bayres. There are other, safer options if you want some color in your loop, Aynjell.

Edit: Also, if your barbs are modern, with recessed O-rings, plumbers tape is superfluous. Of the 18 barbs in my loop none have p-tape.

I'll still use it to be extra safe. I think I'll go sans dye and just get the black tubing. I want performance more than I want hot looks.

[Perseus]

Your choice, of course, but p-tape can flake off into your loop over time. I pulled and replaced my last two taped barbs about 2-month ago. They never leaked, but the tape was in terrible shape. Using contemporary parts means that we don't have to meatball things like we did in the old days, and still have a degree of security. Dude, black tubing is plenty hot looking! :D BTW Aynjell, you're a bad influence. Seeing you ordering stuff made me pull the trigger on some fans and other stuff today, just because. ;)

[jediman]

i want to run some norprene in my line but im worried as a first time wc'er that i'll have silly amount of air that i will never know about if the tubing isn't clear

[Aynjell]

Your choice, of course, but p-tape can flake off into your loop over time. I pulled and replaced my last two taped barbs about 2-month ago. They never leaked, but the tape was in terrible shape. Using contemporary parts means that we don't have to meatball things like we did in the old days, and still have a degree of security. Dude, black tubing is plenty hot looking! :D BTW Aynjell, you're a bad influence. Seeing you ordering stuff made me pull the trigger on some fans and other stuff today, just because. ;)

Hehe, i can't wait to get my water loop up. :)

[Perseus]

I know the feeling, dude! :D

[Aynjell]

Okay guys, it's almost there. All the final parts are in the mail.

How should the order be? It's only 4 parts, so I suppose it won't matter so much, but how should it be setup?

Parts in the loop:
Radiator - Quiet Power 320
CPU Block - Swiftech Apogee GTZ
Pump - Modifified Swiftech MCP 355 (XSPC Top)
Reservoir - Swiftech Micro Res 2


I was thinking something along the lines of right after the block and right before the radiator is where I'd put my pump, that way I'm pulling through the block, and pushing through the radiator. But maybe I don't know yet. If I do it that way I'd have all straight lines and no overlap as far as the tubing is concerned.

The radiator will be top mounted internally, reservoir will be rear mounted internall on the rear 120mm fan, and the reservoir will probably be mounted in my 5 1/4 bay drive slots I got left over. Not really sure at this point, though.

I need input, and fast.

Also, after I make sure the loop is solid I'll be making one final order from performance-pcs, for an NZXT sentry lx (to control all the fans on the radiator) and a length of black primochill tubing.

[hokiealumnus]

I think you're on the right track. Reservoir -> Pump -> Radiator -> Block -> back to Reservoir. That way the little bit of heat you dump into the loop with your pump will be dissipated prior to reaching the CPU.

Placement is largely irrelevant though, so you can put it however you want if you need to for tubing routing/length reasons.

[Aynjell]

I think you're on the right track. Reservoir -> Pump -> Radiator -> Block -> back to Reservoir. That way the little bit of heat you dump into the loop with your pump will be dissipated prior to reaching the CPU.

Placement is largely irrelevant though, so you can put it however you want if you need to for tubing routing/length reasons.

Wouldn't you want to dump the heat before returning to the reservoir for cycling, though?

[hokiealumnus]

Not particularly. That's partly why I said it's a wash. The heat is the same, regardless of where it's dumped.

[Spawn-Inc]

loop order doesn't make much of a difference as it will be 1 or 2C anywhere within the loop.

just make sure to put the res before the pump.

[Perseus]

Wouldn't you want to dump the heat before returning to the reservoir for cycling, though?

You're fine.

[Aynjell]

You're fine.


Going reservoir and then pump is going to put me in a world of hurt.

[Perseus]

In terms of trying to plumb res>pump you mean? Can you slap in a T before your pump? That'll work just as well. Just keep filling you res until the coolant level is stable and then start priming the pump through the T.

[Aynjell]

In terms of trying to plumb res>pump you mean? Can you slap in a T before your pump? That'll work just as well. Just keep filling you res until the coolant level is stable and then start priming the pump through the T.
Actually it won't be all that bad. I'm trying to avoid a rats nest and also trying to avoid having issues with too long of cables. I want the shortest tubes and least bending possible... naturally.

[Aynjell]

Okay, so, my birthday is on the 30th. my g irlfriend ordered me two gifts today.

Some new cans... (http://www.amazon.com/Sony-MDR-V6-Monitor-Headphones-Voice/dp/B00001WRSJ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1245191096&sr=1-1)

The ultimate fan controller... (http://www.amazon.com/Sentry-LX-Performance-Controller-Black/dp/B001E0JH5E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1245191082&sr=8-1)

[Perseus]

Marry her! :D

[Aynjell]

Marry her! :D

She told me at the very least I can have the fan controller early so I can get my water cooling loop up and running. This naturally makes daddy very happy.

[hokiealumnus]

Marry her! :D
+1!

My kind wife lets me order my own stuff and just keeps the box until the applicable day. I love my wife. :)

[Perseus]

+1!

My kind wife lets me order my own stuff and just keeps the box until the applicable day. I love my wife. :)

+1 My wife is a real peach too when it comes computer stuff.

We're lucky men! :D

[Aynjell]

+1 My wife is a real peach too when it comes computer stuff.

We're lucky men! :D

Am I a lucky man too? :(

[Perseus]

Am I a lucky man too? :(

I don't know. Do you have a wife who indulges your hobbies? It's more pronounced in my case because my wife is the family CFO too. She even lets me spend her Xmas bonus every year on whatever I want. ;)

[Aynjell]

I don't know. Do you have a wife who indulges your hobbies? It's more pronounced in my case because my wife is the family CFO too. She even lets me spend her Xmas bonus every year on whatever I want. ;)

O.o

[Aynjell]

Since the woman bought me the final part to my water cooling setup I decided it was a good idea to grab the OCZ XTC cooler to complete the setup. :)

I figured that since I'd be removing the flow from the CPU cooler it was a wise idea to get some air moving on the ram some other way.

[Spawn-Inc]

yes, one of the things that some people miss is that if you get rid of the air heatsink you no longer have air moving over your mosfets and ram etc.

[Aynjell]

Tomorrow the rest of the parts arrive. I'll be putting it together and leak testing it on the table tomorrow.

[Conumdrum]

Congrats, the fun starts, check out this linky
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743

[Aynjell]

Any more tips and tricks?

[Aynjell]

Water cooling is neat. O.o

I fired off occt and my temps didn't change. (And yes I waited a minute for it to actually start)

I think the temp sensors are not reporting perfectly but even still based on old numbers I'm 20C lower under load right now. :)

I had two minor leaks and 1 issue I had to work around.

Block had a very slight dripple. tightening down the barbs resolved that. And the reservoir was leaking, some tape fixed that. The issue with teh reservoir is my fittings wouldn't fit on to it like you'd normally install it so I had to put one on the bottom. this lead to me having to buy some brass extenders. Now I got everything up and running and I'm posting on the WC'd Rig. I'm fairly certain the only thing that can go wrong is a minor leak here and there that I haven't caught yet. But the pump is solid, and the block is solid so far for longer than anything went withuot a leak prior. Initial startup caused leaks before, now I can't see any water and it's been up for about 20 minutes now. So yeah, 6 hours including timei t took to hit the hardware store to buy the emergency parts...

Not bad. :)

I'll be buying some bitspower angled fittings to play the roel of teh cheap brass parts I bought.

[Aynjell]

I'll get some pics tomorrow when I'm happy with the setup. :)

[Conumdrum]

You did leak test for a long long time with just the WC running before you fired up the mobo?

[MongGrel]

My wifes pretty cool on the computer stuff too, but she gets to drive little blue and has a horse that she visits on the weekend a lot that I pay room and board on also.

Is her one thing, I have a lot more bad habits than that.

:eek:

Good luck getting the water solid :thup:

:beer:

[Perseus]

I'll get some pics tomorrow when I'm happy with the setup. :)

Good! I look forward to the pictures.

[Aynjell]

You did leak test for a long long time with just the WC running before you fired up the mobo?

Somebody linked me to a thread that actually suggested that I build inside of the PC, and unfortunately, I didn't leak test prior to that. It was too much work to tear it down all my cabling etc... and it was the only way to get my loop running unfortunately. Plus, this PC was almost free not counting things taht wouldn't of been touched by teh water (HDD's).


All the spots I had concerns about are leak free now. BTW, my finger tips are sore as hell from working the knurls.

[Aynjell]

My reservoir is probably at 80% fill rate. Should I top it off?

Also, I have to say, the hardest part of this whole project was bumping the pump. That's a task, I tell ya'. Getting the air bubbles out of there when I set my reservoir initially to be lower than my pump was a task, I tell ya'!

[Aynjell]

Still no leaks. Still wondering if I should be topping my res off to full fill.

[hokiealumnus]

I would, or close to full at least. Can't hurt.

[Aynjell]

I made a lot of mistakes in the tubing, and it needs some more attention to how things are going. I'm going to rotate the pump a little bit, do the cpu in tube is pointing up and out instead of down and out.

The tubing was cut and ran for putting the reservoir on the other side of the case, up closer to where the radiator is, but that didn't work out to be a very good mounting place as it was too hard to remove and pull out for filling.

Basically, I'll be redoing it with shorter tubes next weekend, for now I'm just enjoying the scenery. I should cut somewhere around a foot and a half out of the loop that day. I'm probably also going to switch the radiator in and out tubes around so that the cpu block is on the back and the reservoir is on the front, since it only makes sense... like I said, as of right now it's jimmy rigged from what I origionally planned.

See the bras fittings on the reservoir? Yeah, the big ass fittings I bought don't fit side by side on it, and they are too wide to fit in the recessed portions on top and bottom, so I had to improvise. 13$ at the local hardware store. When I get my bitspower angled fittings to replace those is when I'll be retubing. Overall though, I've observed no change from idle to load in temps, I used to hit roughly 60C according to real temp and now it just doesn't change. :)

Check the pix everybody, suggestions other than what I've already put myself down on are very welcome! (UNless it's totally constructive)

[Conumdrum]

I can see why your pump is so hard to bump. You got it so air pockets can develop in it. Can you remount it in a more conventional way? Maybe on the bottom of the case?

[Aynjell]

I can see why your pump is so hard to bump. You got it so air pockets can develop in it. Can you remount it in a more conventional way with the outlet facing up? Maybe on the bottom of the case?

I'll look into this later on. It's running fine for now, I'm probably going to tear it all out this weekend when i get the extra fittings so I'll probably mount it towards or on the bottom then. I shouldn't have nay issues with that as I have a fan mount on the bottom. :)

[Aynjell]

Quick vote, everybody:

This:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/XSPC-LAING-RES_01.jpg (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23357)
or 2 of these to make the current reservoir work:

http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/yhst-65556269779593_2057_46716244 (http://www.petrastechshop.com/bipo45rofig1.html)

I think the reservoir top might be the better deal, since I should be relocating my pump to the bottom, so it'd stand up, I origionally planned tp put the pump like it's mounted but that's obviously not working too great.

[Conumdrum]

The restop is such a nice option, I'm running two of them. Less fittings too. Hate to see you have to spend more money. Ohh look at the 90 instead of the 45's, they bend in so may ways.

[Perseus]

I origionally planned tp put the pump like it's mounted but that's obviously not working too great.

The problem is that your pump doesn't prime as easy as you'd like in its current position?

[Spawn-Inc]

looks good , though it looks like there is a kink on the water block tubing.

as for the res or fittings since you already own a top for it i would jut get the fittings.

[Aynjell]

looks good , though it looks like there is a kink on the water block tubing.

as for the res or fittings since you already own a top for it i would jut get the fittings.

Yeah, I was thinking that, as it'd be cheaper. And sure I hear the res top is better performance wise, but I looked at it again and I think I'd run into the same problem, since the fill port is so close to the top line.

As for the fittings, I don't know what angle I'll get, as long as it works. Probably will do the 90 since it's more flexible and can be bent to 45 if I recall.

[Aynjell]

Re-arranged things as you guys suggested, not sure how it runs, but we'll see. :attn:

[Spawn-Inc]

thats a bunch better. once u get the fitting i would put the outlet of the res on the side bottom instead of the bottom. should cut out abotu 6-8 inchs of tubing.

[Aynjell]

thats a bunch better. once u get the fitting i would put the outlet of the res on the side bottom instead of the bottom. should cut out abotu 6-8 inchs of tubing.

If I can do that, I will. :)

Once I get the tubing measurements and my desired configurations all figuredo ut, and I've established that my kill coils and a little bit of dye won't hurt the setup, I'll go and get me some black tubing. :)

[sandyduff]

Looking good!! :D

[Aynjell]

Looking good!! :D

I love the fact that it's all internal. I'm still waiting on somebody to do my window cut. :clap:

The guy that is doing it does everything at www.losias.net

[sandyduff]

Where is your rad mounted...?

[Aynjell]

Where is your rad mounted...?

At the top. :)

I'll get some more inclusive pictures tomorrow. I'm still learning to use the camera on my cell phone to it's fullest potential. It's very finicky.

[sandyduff]

Can you post a pic of the whole rig? not super close up?

Edit: Just read your post... i should learn to read things fully... :D

[Aynjell]

Can you post a pic of the whole rig? not super close up?

Edit: Just read your post... i should learn to read things fully... :D

I will post some more pix tonite. :D

[sandyduff]

I will post some more pix tonite. :D

Coolio... looking forward to it!!

[Aynjell]

Coolio... looking forward to it!!

As promised, sandy. :)

[hokiealumnus]

Looks nice! The clear tubing & liquid looks great against the aluminum case. :)

[Aynjell]

Sentry LX installed, and it looks bomb. Only problem is with it controlling my fans temps are lil' higher.

[sandyduff]

Me likes...

I really like how the rad is hidden at the top... very cool... :D

[Aynjell]

So, my E5300 is currently priming at 3.9, I'm not sure if the temps are accurate, though. It says temps are 55C. O.o

[Aynjell]

Got my OCZ XTC cooler, it's crap for mounting but it single handedly cooled my chipset and ram to very comfortable levels. both are no cool to the touch. I ordered up the fittings, some fan screws, and soon I'll get an order in for a uv light to plug into my pump, that or a blue light. I haven't decided. I'll get some pictures of the whole rig soon.

[Aynjell]

I'll posts pics in a little bit, but I got the setup tweaked a bit as far as wire management goes, and figured out how to more securely fasten my memory cooler. it looks really nice in here now. :)

Again, pics in a bit.

Still waiting on my 45* bitspower fittings. :(

[Aynjell]

Here you guys go. :)

[Aynjell]

How do I drain this system? What do you guys reccomend?

[Spawn-Inc]

How do I drain this system? What do you guys reccomend?


oh? you wanted to drain the system? you need a $200 fitting for that :)

i wish i added a second T and fill port at the bottom but i just pull the tube on my rads to drain. i flush it out with some distilled.

[hokiealumnus]

I'd start your drain by removing the res, holding it outside the case over a bucket and disconnecting one of the leads. That should allow you to get a fair bit of it out. Move the case around a bit and get as much out of it as you can.

If you really want to drain the entire thing, remove all the components and drain them as you go.

Why do you want to drain it?

[Spawn-Inc]

Why do you want to drain it?


hybrid air-water cooling :)

[Aynjell]

I'd start your drain by removing the res, holding it outside the case over a bucket and disconnecting one of the leads. That should allow you to get a fair bit of it out. Move the case around a bit and get as much out of it as you can.

If you really want to drain the entire thing, remove all the components and drain them as you go.

Why do you want to drain it?

I need to install my 45 degree bitspower fittings I got, trim the tubing, etc.

[CharlieCS]

every time i look at this tread i mean to say how much i like your case but always forget , that thing is awesome , so much space you could probably stand up a quad rad there , if i ever contemplate another case it would probably be it .

[hokiealumnus]

I need to install my 45 degree bitspower fittings I got, trim the tubing, etc.
Gotcha. It's really not as bad as it sounds. I had mine completely torn down to clean every component and from the first drop poured out of the res until re-bleeding was only a couple hours. You'll have a little bit of an easier time though b/c you don't have to deal with tubing through holes in your case (as I drained, I was always physically tied to the case).

[Aynjell]

Took me about 4 hours, but...

I re-used the origional tubing, first picture is how much tube I cut out of the loop thanks to the rotating 45 degree bitspower fittings. Almost 2 feet of tubing.

[Spawn-Inc]

nicely done, looks much better.

did temps change any?

[hokiealumnus]

nicely done, looks much better.

did temps change any?

+1; looking great! :clap:

[sandyduff]

Looks a lot better now that you have trimmed the tubing (looked good in the first place)

Good Job Aynjell.... What case is that you're using? Sorry if you have said earlier but i cant be bothered searching thru 5 pages!! :)

Edit: Just noticed it in your sig... d'oh!! :D

[Aynjell]

nicely done, looks much better.

did temps change any?

I have no way of knowing, to be truthful. I think they'll be about the same. If you think about it, it's got LESS head so more velocity and better and more consistent flow, but it's got a LOT less water, however much 2 feet of tube can hold. Possibly negligible. I think the benefits of less tubing will slightly outweigh the negatives of less water in the system... so temps probably won't change. If they do, it could go either way. I also applied a more appropriate amount of TIM. I had quite a bit too much on prior.

ALSO, I'm going to order hte special edition GTZ from P-PC's tomorrow morning, and I'm RMA'ing this one. The delrin top is junk and I won't settle for anything less than a bloc with a metal top now.

Since I like the GTZ so well, that's going to mean I'll be getting the SE GTZ.

I tore down the whole setup, and rebuild it entirely in 4 hours. 0 leaks. I'm getting good at this. :D (that included the full tear down of the PC itself)

Also since I've got it figured out, I think the only thing I'm ading to the setup is a few more of those 45 degree fittings, the SE GTZ, and black tubing, then done. :D

[Spawn-Inc]

the amount of water in your loop has no effect on cooling. it only reduces or increases the time it takes to reach equilibrium. so the more liquid the longer it will take to reach and the better temps you will get to start with. and the less water the less time there is with cooler temps.

[Aynjell]

Got the new GTZ SE installed, I'm not touching a thing until I get the RMA for the block done. I had a problem with it leaking something fierce. After replacing the rubber o-rings on my compression fittings iwth the ones that came with the 1/2 barbs, it resolved hte issue.

For those of you using compression fittings against a metal surface (with a lowered section where the o-ring seals) like the the GTZ Special Edition that Performance-Pc's sells, be very careful when installing the barbs, if it doesn't work, try what I did... remove your old o-rings and use the ones included with the 1/2 inch barbs.

They're smaller, thicker, and they worked just fine. :)

Got small puddles on my sound card and video card, but no damage.

[Spawn-Inc]

ya those gtz need bigger o-rings, take them from the stock barbs like you did seems to work for most.

pics?

[Perseus]

For the record the GTZ top doesn't require thicker O-rings just because. The area immediately around the threading is recessed into the top, for no good reason that I can see. This fact doesn't detract from the block's solid performance, it's just weird.

[Aynjell]

ya those gtz need bigger o-rings, take them from the stock barbs like you did seems to work for most.

pics?

I'll take pix tonite. *sigh*

[Conumdrum]

Ohh ohh if using compression fittings some have taken the ST label off the block. Not needed on a barb setup.

[Aynjell]

I hate it do it to you guys, but I'm in a bit of a sour mood today, not really sure why, just really mellowed/bummed. I'll take pictures tomorrow, I get my panel back with the window cut then anyway.

Then I can show the rig off in it's semi-finished state.

Things I still need to do:

Buy a second DVD-ROM drive, so I can fill up the front bays enough.
Get colored tubing.
Decide on a fan led color, the obvious pick is blue though, thanks to the motherboard and ram cooler... and the pump if you count the fins being blue.

[Spawn-Inc]

don't worry about the pictures, i just like seeing how people do there stuff for ideas, and i wanted to see a personal picture of that gtz SE. have a drink, helps me :)

[Conumdrum]

Ohh fan colors can brighten up the day! Get plaid fans! I like the mix of colors in a crosshatch pattern, always makes my day when I fire it up.

[Aynjell]

I'll try and clean up the tubing tonite, and after I get that all done I'll post up some pictures for you needy ********. :)

Still trying to decide, should I get some Akasa Pax.Mate or other accoustic dampening material for the case? I imagine it wouldn't be too loud as it stands but...

[Aynjell]

Our sponsor, and what he has to show you. :)

[Aynjell]

And some more... please don't mind the bay thingy being cock eyed, it's fixable but that's half the reason I started water cooling. I figured I could fill up some if not all of the bays with something related so I wouldn't have that problem. They just don't freaking stay put.

[Aynjell]

I realize how messy that is having the video card power cables in front of the water, I'll move them next time I'm in there, but it's not worth going in. :(

[Spawn-Inc]

nice, are those feser 45's ont he microres?

good routing on the tubing as well, looks like Zoro did it, looking in the mirror anyhow.

[Aynjell]

nice, are those feser 45's ont he microres?

good routing on the tubing as well, looks like Zoro did it, looking in the mirror anyhow.

Ell oh ell.

It's bitspower, bee tee dubya.