post your homemade waterblock pictures!

[JFettig]

everyone post pictures of your homemade waterblocks!
ill post mine when i finish it! its gonna be sweeeeeeet!

*edit* what kind of temps is everyone getting with your blocks, and how do they perform against others(if you know)

[Newbie_Doo]

Since you asked:

[Pepsi]

Ok I'll bite Here's the latest. Specs 2"X2"X2" Acrylic Cube 3/4" inlet and outlet hooked to a 450 GPH pump.
Stay Cool
Pepsi

[JFettig]

Originally posted by Newbie_Doo
Since you asked:

how does that block perform? is that copper?
i was about to do something like that for my first block...

and pepsi, that block is sweet!
looks like you changed it from its origional condition.

im just lookin at all the cool waterblocks and how people made them and all

[Pepsi]

Thanks! ah yea I had to make a few changes and more will come. So are you going to try direct contact or a water cooled chunk of copper sitting on your processor? Let me know I've got a few experiments you could test for me ( hehehe).
Stay Cool
Pepsi

[Newbie_Doo]

It is C110 Copper, 2x2x1" thick with a 0.125" base and sides, except where the fittings are it is 0.250". Performance is as good as a Danger Den Maze block on most cpus and a little better on some of the hotter ones. I had a friend mill it for me on a CNC machine. (Actually had 5 made, only kept one and gave the rest away).

It makes a nice waterblock, but there are more economical designs available on the market for a lot less than what I am into this one for. (Don't ask how much, let's just say extravagantly expensive! ;))

N_D

[Yodums]

Those two blocks are really nice. I love the clear copper die block as well as a neat design too Newbie Doo.

Yodums

[Newbie_Doo]

Thanks

[JFettig]

about those little posts, do they help the heat trancefer noticibly?
because i was thinkin of puttin them in my block that im makin if i use a copper base...

[Pepsi]

I suppose you could imbed a copper disk into my cube but I'd think it'd be a bad idea. The copper and acrylic plastic would move too much with heat changes I'd think. Possibly it would fail (leak). But for direct contact cooling and the looks the cube works as well as any Sunny Delight bottle.
Stay Cool
Pepsi
P.S. You know (not to insult you) my cube is direct contact no bottom to the HS water is right on the chip.

[Bender]

Here is my water orb with a mirror finished bottom. I don't know about its temps yet since I havn't been able to try it out yet. I only tested it for leaks and its fine.

http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/watertop.jpg

http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/waterside.jpg

[Pepsi]

Bender,
Looks like my first two attempts. The one you have there I tested, but it was not as well made as yours. I abandoned it because the aluminium had such serious problems when cold water hit it. The thing shrank so fast it lost good contact with processor. My second it worked too well I got frost on the top of the converted HS. Both ran off a small fridge w/ antifreeze. The end result the copper Orb was killer, the water supply soon gained so much heat the fridge was overpowered. But then again I'm not lucky. I have never tried the copper orb w/ my new bong could work maybe. Don't get me wrong I think your work looks great good luck.
Stay Cool
Pepsi

[Bender]

Pepsi how did you mount the copper cap to your orb. I used a hole saw so I could counter sink the cap. The fit was perfect so I then soldered the cap to the base of the orb. In the pic the copper cap is just sitting there but on the finished product the copper cap is flush with the top of the fins.

[MiseryQ]

Here's mine, ain't working too good yet...

[JFettig]

my block without the copper plate on it yet, and no holes drilled, it does have the places were they are gonna be drilled.
its 8 peices of plexiglass bonded together to make it 5/8in high

[JFettig]

DANG! i did it again!

[Miss_Man]

2 inlet block and cross drilled.
http://www.dabros.com/images/lardarse78/41.jpg

http://www.dabros.com/images/lardarse78/in4.jpg

5/8" fitted block for dual peltiers
http://www.dabros.com/images/lardarse78/36.jpg

http://www.dabros.com/images/lardarse78/31.jpg

[flounder43]

Originally posted by Miss_Man
2 inlet block and cross drilled.
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v2/2/32/58/30023258irQqbXnTdO_ph.jpg

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v2/2/32/65/30023265fetqkzWOeC_ph.jpg

5/8" fitted block for dual peltiers
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v2/2/32/54/30023254RQFIpfVdxc_ph.jpg

http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v2/2/32/42/30023242AXoqzcROTQ_ph.jpg

The links are not working...

[Miss_Man]

Fixed... I hope.

[J37X]

Here's mine, just a simple cross-drilled block. 3/8" fittings. what you see on the top is just some thick foam tape, to keep the waterblock from making contact with the aluminum holddown plate im using.

[BladeRunner]

http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/pictures/jpg/ramblockmk2finishedsmall.jpg (www.zerofanzone.co.uk) http://www.zerofanzone.co.uk/pictures/jpg/hdd3small.jpg (www.zerofanzone.co.uk)

[JFettig]

wow some people have resorces!

i have next to none!
the only thing i bought for mine is the fittings, pump, and hose! and im using plexiglass i found laying around and a peice of aluminum i found.....


hehe my block glows RED

[RangerJoe]

hey bladerunner, i want to make a waterblock like you did for my gf3, if at all possible, could you email me some dimensions? i have a solid block of copper that is like 8" x 6" x 1", and im trying to figure out what the sizes are, so could you please help

[Pepsi]

Bender,
Sorry I did not get back as soon as I wanted. My conversion was done on a milling machine I milled out the guts of the Orb to slightly larger than a stock 1.250 copper plumbing cap so it would slide inside the hole. It's glued in with marine epoxy and heat cured in a oven to set up. It never leaked. I set the cap deep enough to still be able to install the stock fan. Thats why my inlet and outlet are on the low side. When are you going to test yours?
Stay Cool
Pepsi
BTW nice thread !

[Ralphing]

Great stuff guys, I love the innovation:D
Here's my latest:
http://paran0id.homestead.com/files/copperspirals.jpg
http://paran0id.homestead.com/files/hopperblock.jpg
http://paran0id.homestead.com/files/mbm.JPG

Compared to my Maze 2 idle temps dropped by 5C and full load temps dropped by 10C.

[The Overclocker]

here is mine: it's a er... plug, i dont have any tools for metal work or any metal so i did this:

it's a uk plug direct die waterblock. ambient is 20. idle is 24 and load is 24

[Ozzman]

overclocker is that FOAM??!! hmm

P.S i feel left out o well i guess i will have to make do with my alpha pal8045 which is on its way,,

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Ozzman
overclocker is that FOAM??!! hmm

P.S i feel left out o well i guess i will have to make do with my alpha pal8045 which is on its way,,

nah, it is a PVC UK mains power plug with everything inside removed. just the right size

[loggo]

http://x-streem.ec.ksk.sala.se/kylning/waterblock

Thats my first waterblock.. No numbers yet!

[iggybaseball]

Originally posted by the overclocker
here is mine: it's a er... plug, i dont have any tools for metal work or any metal so i did this:

it's a uk plug direct die waterblock. ambient is 20. idle is 24 and load is 24


What kind of glue did u use and what kind of extra preparations did u make to the chip? How did u attach the barbs also? Thanx

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by iggybaseball



What kind of glue did u use and what kind of extra preparations did u make to the chip? How did u attach the barbs also? Thanx

i used Aradite epoxy all the way, i also covered all the bridges and resistor on the chip with epoxy (it wans't a good chip anyway) the barbs are just bits of 10mm copper which are glued into the holes. it all works though

[The Overclocker]

here is my other heatsink: a gpu heatsink for my geforce 2 Ti, cant use it yet because i dont have enough hose or any Y bits

[The Overclocker]

sorry about that, the picture should be here now

[JFettig]

cool man, thats how i made my first waterblock for my cpu but it was to big and i couldnt mount it.... the block was too close to the mounting holes...so iv been planing!
but i think i need to find a peice of 1/2in plexi b/c the one that i have 8 peices of 1/16in all glued to gether and they probably arnt gonna be all that great

[Strangelove]

Well mine will hopefully look something like this when I get it done (only not cut into slices ;)). Working on it, got the drilling done:D I'll let you know how it works.

[Strangelove]

Here it is connected ;)

[JFettig]

cool cool

check out my top of my waterblock!!! i just got done etching it!!!! its so sweeeeeet!

i cant wait, and when its lit up!!! itll be so awesome!!!

[JFettig]

strangelove- you could use copper wire and soldier it to the block kinda like the swiftech heatsinks....
well i dont really knwo how you have that of what your doing to it....unless you already have them little squair thingys....

[Ozzman]

hmm could u take a wire out of like a old radio like speaker wire and criss cross it around the holes of ur CPU like the ones that are used on the bigger heatsinks and vapochill?? would that work?? i thought i would throw that into the chat..

[JFettig]

Originally posted by Ozzman
hmm could u take a wire out of like a old radio like speaker wire and criss cross it around the holes of ur CPU like the ones that are used on the bigger heatsinks and vapochill?? would that work?? i thought i would throw that into the chat..

i dont think your talkin about the same thing as me....
im talkin about the heatsink on the waterblock....
and how he could make it if he haznt already...

[Strangelove]

Originally posted by maskedgeek
strangelove- you could use copper wire and soldier it to the block kinda like the swiftech heatsinks....
well i dont really knwo how you have that of what your doing to it....unless you already have them little squair thingys....

The block is made out of one solid block of cobber, which is cross drilled. The top will be cut with a circular saw

[JFettig]

thats a great idea!! so are you gonna put a fan on it for safety when/if your pump dies? and how are you plannin on mounting it?

[Strangelove]

With regard to the fan...Yes that was the general idea. Mounting is another question ;) the fan will propably be mounted on to the WB by making holes in the outer "tabs". Mounting the WB.... I don't know yet :confused:

[KFB]

had to resurrect this thread to finally post my pics.
Dorb3 water mod:
http://sweb.uky.edu/~ddfoye2/dorb_top2.jpg

and my first waterblokk attempt:

http://sweb.uky.edu/~ddfoye2/waterblock1_side1.jpg

obviously I like JB Weld.
:D

[woodenman80]

I made this block about 6months back it works as a cpu block but not to well as it dose not have the mass or the throughput of my copper block but as a Northbridge and a geforce cooler it excelled, Sorry i have no pic of it complete as my digi camera has died :(. Took 3 hrs to make so its a bit ruff..

Woodenman

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by woodenman80
I made this block about 6months back it works as a cpu block but not to well as it dose not have the mass or the throughput of my copper block but as a Northbridge and a geforce cooler it excelled, Sorry i have no pic of it complete as my digi camera has died :(. Took 3 hrs to make so its a bit ruff..

Woodenman

that is very nice, i am surprided that is does not work well. it looks well amde and aluminum does still work quite well

[Portishead]

I'm pretty much a Noob to overclocking...but am taking on the challenge to fill my spare time!!! I haven't seen a design exactly like this for a WB and was wondering if anyone had input. I've applied my engineering background to try to improve on some old designs a bit.

The WB will be 2 copper caps soldered on a thin copper plate. Water will flow into the top center of the first cap, then pass out 3 holes at the bottom, traveling up the inner sides and out a port located at the top/side of the larger cap.

This design should minimize short-circuiting of water. Also I hope the thin bottom plate more efficiently transfers heat to the water rather than becoming a hot sink. If I need more surface area I may fill the inside with copper bb's, and put a small screen over the outlets.

Sorry for the long post....but any comments???

[Portishead]

Pic below showing my proposed WB......

[MiseryQ]

I'm new to water cooling but I think you would need some fins under the center cap... And the the passges for the water into the 2nd cap would have to be low in resistance to keep the flow up... BB's in the water stream would act a lot like the older catalytic convertors on cars... Very restrictive and they would have to be attached to the copper base to absord the heat from it...

[ButcherUK]

I threw this together pretty quick so it's a bit ghetto but it worked. Pretty high flow - 2 pass with 4 5mm passeges internally in each direction. Mainly soldered with a bit of epoxy to seal the bits I couldn't solder well. Temps were about 2C above my maze2 (in-socket thermistor). The 4 bolt mount is Al and is epoxied to the sides, worked like a charm with 37lb force from some springs on it - the same springs are now on my maze2 ;)

http://www-users.york.ac.uk/~rec108/oldblock.jpg

[The Overclocker]

these are really cool, i anyone else has anything to add to them please do

[Portishead]

Re: my post and pic above.

Thx for the suggestions MiseryQ. I think I will put several fins inside the first chamber....and add a couple more outlets so I have one outlet between each radial fin. I still should get good flow without restriction or dead spots....with the added benifit of more contact surface area.

I'll post pics when I put this together over the weekend.

[Bender]

Sorry about the bad webcam pic. I'll get some nice ones this weekend. The Alpha cools the peltier, the peltier cools the waterblock plus water flowing through, then the waterblock cools the CPU. The nice part about this setup is that the water isn't affected by the extra heat the pelt makes. This way I can run my 80 watt peltier on my Athlon without burning the chip out. All I need for this project now is the hose barbs. The block is cross drilled with 4 seperate mounting holes for the pelt and there are also 4 mounting holes for use on a slot intel chip or a socket A AMD board.
http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/wap.jpg

[JFettig]

WOW! thats such a great idea!
but how does it perform? does it actually cool the water?
i kinda wanna make a inline waterchiller like that sometime...if it actuallyworks...some people say it doesnt.
someone is gonna try cooling the pelt with waterblock wile another block is recieving the coldnessnessness of the pelt!

i think that mite perform pretty good....

[MiseryQ]

Bender, does the temps from the Peltier travel "through" the copper to the cpu side?!?

[Bender]

Originally posted by MiseryQ
Bender, does the temps from the Peltier travel "through" the copper to the cpu side?!?

Actually this block is aluminum. I will go copper some other time. The peltiers cooling does transfer all the way to the cpu core. It also acts as a water chiller. Cant wait to give it a try.

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Bender


Actually this block is aluminum. I will go copper some other time. The peltiers cooling does transfer all the way to the cpu core. It also acts as a water chiller. Cant wait to give it a try.


i would have thought you would get much better temps with the peltier next to the cpu and the fan/heatsink incase your pump fails

[Bender]

Well TheOverclocker I couldn't do that with an 80 watt pelt or it wuld burn out the athlon. 80 watts allone isn't enought to cool an athlon.

[Bender]

Here is my latest creation.

http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/wb1.jpg
http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/wb1-2.jpg

[The Overclocker]

bender that is very nice, i really wish i had the resorces to make something like that

[Bender]

Hey I don't have all that much and I do a good job making blocks. All you really need is a drill. I have huge a drill press so it makes things much easier. I might try and find a cross slide for my drill press to convert it into a cheep mill. It would be crap as far as mills are concerned but things don't need to be all that precise inside a water blcok. I used some really nice plsatic elbows from 2 rio pumps. Something that you cant see about the block is the threading inside the channels. The threading makes for a ton more surface area and causes more turbulance.

[UserName]

turbulance will occure on the smoothest of surfaces if the flow is fast enough. Most of our pumps is fast enough

[Spec_Ops2087]

Yo...how did you get all those fans to work when there are only like 3 places to plug the fans in?

[JFettig]

Originally posted by Spec_Ops2087
Yo...how did you get all those fans to work when there are only like 3 places to plug the fans in?


fanbus man.....fanbus....
go to virtual-hideout.net then the guides and itll tell you how to make one...


hey bender,
what kind of waterflow do you have in that block?
you should make a diagram to show how it flows...


what mine is gonna be like... its almost finished...prob finishing it friday or sunday...

[JFettig]

crap the pic didnt go..........

[UserName]

i'd inject from the top center

[JFettig]

its the hole idea of the swirlynessnessness...............

have you seen the "tidepool" block? it is made of aluminum and performed the same as some other good coper block...
its in the watercooling section on the homepage in the reviews and tips or whatever...

[The Overclocker]

i am making my new block now, it is a very small bit of plastic that will be a V tuned direct die waterblock, should work well. pics soon

[MiseryQ]

What do you mean "v tuned"?!?

[JFettig]

Originally posted by MiseryQ
What do you mean "v tuned"?!?

go visit ocwc (http://www.overclock-watercool.com)
check their blocks.....



and that v tuned thing, i was thinkin of one like that but im gonna make a better one! thats direct die....
well maby better but if not better a million times cooler! looking that is..

[MiseryQ]

I'm still no closer to knowing what "v tuned" is...

Some nice blocks though... I love that silver base and plexi unit...

[JFettig]

http://www.overclockwatercool.com/products/V-Tune2.jpg

thats prob what he means....

[JFettig]

Originally posted by Pepsi
Bender,
Looks like my first two attempts. The one you have there I tested, but it was not as well made as yours. I abandoned it because the aluminium had such serious problems when cold water hit it. The thing shrank so fast it lost good contact with processor. My second it worked too well I got frost on the top of the converted HS. Both ran off a small fridge w/ antifreeze. The end result the copper Orb was killer, the water supply soon gained so much heat the fridge was overpowered. But then again I'm not lucky. I have never tried the copper orb w/ my new bong could work maybe. Don't get me wrong I think your work looks great good luck.
Stay Cool
Pepsi

pepsi - you should show us more of that orb3 and how you did all that.......is it cross drilled or how did you do it? and how does it perform.....?

[woofer]

Currently woking on these....

[woofer]

"2"

[woofer]

"3"

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by MiseryQ
I'm still no closer to knowing what "v tuned" is...

Some nice blocks though... I love that silver base and plexi unit...

V-tuned means that the flowreate it the same all the way through the block, so the volume of the hole does not increase or decrese

[The Overclocker]

woofer - that is a really well made block, in the last picture it looks finished, why aren't you using it?

[JFettig]

I FINISHED MY BLOCK!!!!
heres some pics
http://www.geocities.com/jonfettig/block/b1.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/jonfettig/block/b2.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/jonfettig/block/b3.jpg
http://www.geocities.com/jonfettig/block/b4.jpg
looks like i need another led
sorry the pics arent all that good as in one of them you can see my camera....

[JFettig]

ok geocities isnt working for me and mite not be workin for you so go here for the pics.......


http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?s=&postid=492026&t=1056#post492026

[ButcherUK]

Wow woofer that is sweet, damn wish I had a CNC :D

[JFettig]

gonna get another led in it........

[MiseryQ]

Oh...

[woofer]

Originally posted by the overclocker
woofer - that is a really well made block, in the last picture it looks finished, why aren't you using it?

I have been making several blocks for a friend here in Australia , a regular at our forums here at O/Clockers Australia ( Bravo).

Bravo had some excellent ideas but not the equipment to manufacture what he wanted. I am a Machinist by trade, so I volunteered to make several blocks as i was interested in the end results..

The one in the pictures above was a prototype GPU block which Bravo has been testing.
The results are excellent!!
I am currently working on 2 other GPU designs and a multichannel AMD Socket WB which will be finished shortly.

My main CPU is taken care of by the Vapochill but i will be eventually using one of the GPU blocks on my own Video Card.

[Silver]

And this is what one makes when one has ideas but only a jigsaw and a drill. Oh, and a kitchen stove.

[Bender]

Here is a picture of my water air peltier block. This is the block that has the peltier on top and an Alpha PEP66t to cool the pelt. The countersunk holes are made so the alpha can bolt right on and the heads of the screws are flush with the bottom of the block. The large countersunk holes are drilled different on both sides of the block to compensate for the funky base of the alpha. The 4 other holes are there for the motherboard mounting.

Here is just the block
http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/wap2.jpg

Here is the monste assembled but with no hose barbs.
http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/wap.jpg

[Silver]

And how did that effect the temps with the pelt on top of the block? I have often thought of integrating the pelt in some way.

[Bender]

Well silver the block just got its barbs and I have to cap off 1 hole yet. I cant wait to give it a try. I am also waiting to finish my celeron system to test it out on. If you hadn't had enough here is another block I made.
http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/maze.jpg

[JFettig]

Originally posted by Silver
And this is what one makes when one has ideas but only a jigsaw and a drill. Oh, and a kitchen stove.

thats the biggest block iv seen!
iv thought of multiple outlets and only 1inlet but never 3 in and 3 out....do ya have 3 pumps or something? and how does it perform?

[Silver]

Flow is GREAT. Head in bong is moving a lot of water spray with all holes open. Thinking was to cool the water more while keeping the block as close to ambient as I could. The t-bird 1.4 does not overheat now (up to 2.35v) however this has not really helped me in oc. More stable but not really much higher. I am pushing 140w and it is time for a little pelt action on an xp as I believe that with cooler processors coming pelts of reasonable wattage will again come into use. I use a 500 gph danner to feed it. One pump is more than enough. The dd block (even after I modded it) would get warm to the touch. This block does not. Had to mod the socket a little to get the block on flat. Even cut the block around mofsets. Went for about all the area I could. This of course show that virtually unlimited pelt area is available to use. Thought of lower wattage pelts multiples but am presntly working on direct pelt cooling on the cpu due to the lower heat issues I expect from the future amd processors. Outperforms the dd maze2/1.

[Silver]

Originally posted by Bender
Well silver the block just got its barbs and I have to cap off 1 hole yet. I cant wait to give it a try. I am also waiting to finish my celeron system to test it out on. If you hadn't had enough here is another block I made.
http://www.daocplace.com/~bender/maze.jpg

Have often thought about a simple block with a solid core over the cpu with a small pelt (85w maybe?) over the core air cooled. This would give me a good hit on the core while using water all around it (close in). It would be a balancing act to get the core/water right in order to not kill the pelts contribution while getting close enough to get good water cooling. The block would not need the volume or dimension of a larger one and the power requiements on the pelt are easily achievable. My present setup is handling 140w with water. The pelts contribution would have to be somewhat isolated but not entirely.

[RangerJoe]

----QUICK SKETCH-----

[Inteleron]

how would u make one of those plexiglass blocks... those are so purty :D

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Silver
And this is what one makes when one has ideas but only a jigsaw and a drill. Oh, and a kitchen stove.

silver that is MAD, can i see a sketch of the layout inside.

[JFettig]

Originally posted by Inteleron
how would u make one of those plexiglass blocks... those are so purty :D

plex blocks are the easiest ones too!,
what i did because i only have 1/16in plexi is i cut a 8 or 9 of them out of the plexi window, then i contact cemented them all together and i fogged them real good for the light to spread

i sanded the edges and that, then i went and marked the center of the block for the hole and took a holesaw to it... then did all 4 mounting holes. and turned it on its side and drilled out the inlet and outlet
then i drilled the led lite hole and i was mostly done,
basicly i took another peice of plexi(that i etched) and contact cemented it on top and JBwelded the copper on the bottom
im installing it rite now and waiting for the rest of the fam to wake up so i dont wake them up when i use the hair dryer to change hose arangements.......

or you can take an old heatsink and make a plexi box around it like that other gpu or north bridge one on this post...
thats how i made my first one but the sink was to big


ill let you all know how it turns out!

[Silver]

Originally posted by the overclocker


silver that is MAD, can i see a sketch of the layout inside.


If there is one here that would understand the lack of resources and the need to make do, it would be you. I have often referred to you to others short on funding however (sorry) I think I used the wrong name. Dumb me. More than happy to send some. Was a real pain to do as without boring equipment all of the block is pieces. Had to heat the whole thing up on the stove and solder all so as to have no leaks. Real pain, but got it. Knowledge gained. All of the internals of course had to be curved in order to keep them vertical when their solder re-melted while soldering the exterior pieces. This block fits and will only fit a shuttle board as cut outs where made to get around a few obstacles. Carefully broke one side of the slider off (the socket) so that I could sand it down below the core height and thus allow the block to lay flat. would have been a real pain to solder the block to get over the top of the socket. Just used a touch of superglue to put the slider back together and popped it back on. Tried this on my abit first for an over sized plexi-water-sink first. Also on a epox board before doing it on this brand new shuttle.

[Silver]

Getting used to this. Think this is the bottom.

[Silver]

These are the adapters to handle the volume. 3x3/8

[Silver]

This is the inside. No comments on soldering skills please. I am not a pro and this is the kithcen stove.

[Silver]

Not a great pic but there is just enough room when sanded to get the block on flat for full core contact.

[Silver]

And finally the pic of what the socket top looks like modded.

[Silver]

Overclocker, want to build a direct cooled pelt on the cheap and with limited tools. Ideas? Saw one article but said pelt cracked. Due most likely to expansion variances? Is the marine goop somewhat elastic? Could it (if somewhat elastic) not be used with a pvc cap to account for some expansion and thus prevent the cracking? Direct cooling on the pelt should add some wattage back to the pelt. I.E. 75%xwattage= plus a little added back no? A 156w pelt might therefore be 156x.75=117w+maybe 10w=127w (and if you could get 20w it would be perfect). With the xp chips and even more so the future revisions, lower wattage pelts ought to be useable.

[JFettig]

well i started filling my system....well lets just say that i have a few fans aimed at the motherboard.......

everyone says that test it for leaks for a day or 2 but i didnt see a reason.....well now i do......
and i wish i would have..... any ideas of a good way to bond plexi to plexi on short resources.......?

[Silver]

Oh mannnn. Did you hurt anything? I use newspaper for 24 hours min. I do it in the kitchen, wife loves it. I used a two part epoxy rated for something like 150 celcius. Loved my watersink but you should be aware, on an aluminum heatsink with 1/4 inch plexi I got heat stress cracks around the base. Now I admit I used 2.3v at times and generally run around 2.25v and the aluminum may have expanded greatly while the epoxy would not budge. A more elastic bond may have been better. Sink never did leak and was about 2c better than a dd maze 2/1. Looked really good. Used three intakes and three outlets 1/4 inch on it too.

[Karsta]

I am still making mine. Here are some pictures:
NB, GPU and CPU blocks after drilling. They are currently almost ready -still some polishing left
http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/blocks1.jpg

GPU block just after last soldering
http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/wbgpu2.JPG

GF3 memory block at its current state
http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/wbmem1.JPG

I would have used somewhat different approach if would have had access to a mill from the beginning - and if I've had all the knowledge I've gathered during the work...

[DodgeViper]

Why not incorporate a heat sink into the water block? Would this not help remove heat from the water block? Most water-cooling case designs still have fans pushing and pulling air through the case. Why not use this moving air to help dissipate the heat from the W/B.

[Silver]

And here is my favorite (though not best performing) block. If you look closely at the bottom left corner you will see why it had to go. Hairline cracks at the base on three sides. Maybe a different adhesive? Though not the best performing it did do better than a dd maze 2/1 by about 2c.

[JFettig]

YES IM SO HAPPY! it didnt ruin anything! rite now i just put a delta wannabe on it from a 6cu+ and its a screemin away! at 32c instead of like 40!

i did read the lable more carefully and it said"let cure for at least 72hrs" and on the front it said "dry in 20-30 min." hmmm.... and i think i let it cure for about a day....CRAP! well its dryin away again!....gonna wait till saturday or longer till i install everything

[JFettig]

Originally posted by Silver
And here is my favorite (though not best performing) block. If you look closely at the bottom left corner you will see why it had to go. Hairline cracks at the base on three sides. Maybe a different adhesive? Though not the best performing it did do better than a dd maze 2/1 by about 2c.

aluminum shrinks and expands to much........ if it was copper....

[MiseryQ]

Silver, What was your temps with that?!?... I was thinking to make something like that with a K6-2 heatsink...

[JFettig]

Originally posted by DodgeViper
Why not incorporate a heat sink into the water block? Would this not help remove heat from the water block? Most water-cooling case designs still have fans pushing and pulling air through the case. Why not use this moving air to help dissipate the heat from the W/B.

yes actually this does work, and if you check the first page of this post a guy is gonna do that... and someone has and he turned off his pump, it was a regular hsf, and his temps went up to 60c then back down to 40! amasing! its like a fail safe thing! and it performs pretty good with the waterpumping....
very good idea

[Bender]

Why don't all of you waterblock designers get a scrap of alu, copper or hack up an old heatsink to enter in our wateblock competition. Pretty much anything goes as far as design. I really want to have more blocks in the competition. Mayby a little prize is in order for the winner. I havn't thought up anything but I'm open to suggestions.

Sign up Here (http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=63376)

[Silver]

Originally posted by MiseryQ
Silver, What was your temps with that?!?... I was thinking to make something like that with a K6-2 heatsink...

I got about 45c at full load on 2.3v. At 2.35 the sink would rise in temp and would not stop (at least as far as my nerves went). It grew at the rate of about 1c per 30 seconds. The aluminum was obviously less forgiving than the copper at high wattage. The copper dd would do the same but at a much slower rate. The dd would also get warm to the touch (not hot, just warm). This new block does'nt get warm and can handle the 2.35 when I use it. The plexi block is pretty cool looking though and I wish it had worked. Knowing that it cracked I am afraid to try a copper based water sink. Maybe acrylic would hold up better?

[DodgeViper]

Try using Lexan over Plexiglass. At work I made a cover to keep the heat retained on a large commercial linen ironer. I made a steel frame box cover about 6’x14’x12" and covered it with 1/8” Lexan. This machine is steam feed and the heat retained was very hot.

Lexan can be drilled, heated and bent without breaking or chipping.

[Nate242]

Here are a few pics of my waterblock.

http://www.242.hostmb.com/cgi-bin/i/images/pics/case_26.JPG

http://242.hostmb.com/waterblock_4.jpg

and here's a link to more pics at my site:
www.242.hostmb.com

[Ralphing]

Originally posted by Nate242
Here are a few pics of my waterblock.

http://www.242.hostmb.com/cgi-bin/i/images/pics/case_26.JPG

http://242.hostmb.com/waterblock_4.jpg

and here's a link to more pics at my site:
www.242.hostmb.com

Well done on the case, I like it. Just out of curiousity, where are you going to school?

[woodenman80]

I like your cas Nate and must ask what is the inside chassis, what type of wood and its a damn shame you painted it black! you could go into buisness with those wooden case!!!

(coming from a Woodenman who lives in a wood and loves wood!!)


Woodenman

[Nate242]

Ralphing, I'm going to OIT in Klamath Falls, OR and studying mechanical engineering at the monent.

woodenman80, I used aluminum angle "iron" from home depot for the cage, and some plate aluminum for the solid parts. The case seems to be working really well so far, I can dissasemble the entire thing if I want too; the only part I can't take apart using a screwdriver is the cage, I'd have to drill the rivits out, so it makes working on it really nice. I can flip it on it's side and just work on that side or keep it level and work on it that way, it makes mounting waterblocks and heatsinks really easiy. I have gotten several replies saying the same thing about painting the wood(I actually used vinyl die so you could still see the wood grain), and in some ways I agree, but with this case I wanted to have it all black(havn't dyed the cd drives yet) and kinda inconspicuous. The neat thing about this case design is you can really change the way it looks very easily, all I have to do is re-skin the outside in some new wood, and I basically have a new case. Thanks for the comments :)

[ol' man]

Here it is.

http://hhrol.bobsville.com/block8.jpg

A tutorial for it,

http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=49297

Did it on the stove.

[JFettig]

check the block that i made from a pop can thats gonna be a direct heatspreader or direct die for either a k6-2 or an athlon or something like that

basicly its a pop can bottom with holes cut in it

[JFettig]

well, my block didnt turn out because of the crappy glue that i used....because i didnt have any other stuff....
but i did make one out of a pop can

and i used my old block as a clamp

[JFettig]

another pic with the clamp on it...

[MiseryQ]

Where do you get those blocks of copper?!? I've been looking all week with no luck...

[Silver]

Give this a go www.onlinemetals.com.

[MiseryQ]

Thanks...

[JFettig]

well, im running my watercooling system now!
but...i had better temps with my hsf....
i think its the contact, because my core is chipped on 3 of the 4 sides......
what should i clean my core with?

rite now im running at 40c
with my everflow on my coolermaster i was running around 35

[wolfsid]

I see alot of nice blocks.... how about some more gpu blocks or some memory blocks...:D

[JFettig]

my popcan gpu block!
i couldnt use it yet because of my tv tuner on my voodoo3 so i had raize up a fitting...

[JFettig]

oops forgot the pic

[The Overclocker]

Originally posted by Silver
Overclocker, want to build a direct cooled pelt on the cheap and with limited tools. Ideas? Saw one article but said pelt cracked. Due most likely to expansion variances? Is the marine goop somewhat elastic? Could it (if somewhat elastic) not be used with a pvc cap to account for some expansion and thus prevent the cracking? Direct cooling on the pelt should add some wattage back to the pelt. I.E. 75%xwattage= plus a little added back no? A 156w pelt might therefore be 156x.75=117w+maybe 10w=127w (and if you could get 20w it would be perfect). With the xp chips and even more so the future revisions, lower wattage pelts ought to be useable.

hmm, i didn't realise so many people had continued with this article.

my direct die chip is dead, nothing to do with the direct die cooling but when i took it out of water the core became porus.

i havn't had any experiance with pelts yet but will very soon.

i doubt the pvc cap will allow as much expanstion. the best idea is to have a silicon seal around it, which would offer maximum flex.

[JFettig]

i just thought i should make this thread alive again! so people can still post their waterblock pictures and see ones that other people have made

[Karsta]

Here my Asus V8200d with blocks. At the moment pictures were taken they lacked tube connecting them. I will make some sort of page of WC system with links to higher resolution pictures later.

http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/GF3WC1.jpg

http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/GF3WC2.jpg

[Karsta]

And here are cpu and northbridge blocks:

http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/Bcpud.jpg

http://koti.mbnet.fi/tuokarsk/Bnbd.JPG

[JFettig]

those are perdy!!!!!!!!!!!

[Silver]

Real Perdy.:D

[overdoze]

Karsta, Those are so nice to look at
how could you get them so shiny like that. Would it oxidize over time too? or you have some clear paint over it?

[Karsta]

Thank You:)

I sanded them with sandpaper going up to 1200 grit (some with 2000). After that I used a soft cloth and some sort of grinding paste and finally polished with Pol metal polish.

After removing the metal polish with thinner I varnished them with acrylic spay varnish. It was going to look terrible so I to had remove the varnish with thinner before it dried. I ended up polishing it again with Pol to have a protective layer on the surface. Blocks will get slowly darker but now after about 2 months I can't notice yet any difference in colour.

The cpu block is not sandpapered from the top because milling left a beatiful pattern on it. It can't be seen on the picture (actually I could not get a good picture of the surface) but I like it in nature. I meant to do the same for other blocks too but soldering and acid treatment oxidized/disrupted the pattern so I decided to polish them.

[Snewp0rs]

Those are all cool, I wish I could find copper blocks to make one! :(

[overdoze]

Snewp0rs, you can find metal block at your local scrap metals or at http://www.dangerden.com or http://www.onlinemetals.com/