To rad or not to rad?

[deadlyapollo]

Ok, so for my first loop, I decided to go with cooling just the CPU and I am still not going to WC my GPU's as they only get to 61C load after a VERY long time of gaming. My question is, I only have a swift tech 120mm quiet rad for my Phenom II. My load temps reach 49C at 3.6Ghz. Do I really need another Rad?

I need a new Res, as I currently own a thermaltake one and I can't see through it to judge liquid levels so as I am searching petras I came across a swift tech 120.2 and 120.3 rad for only $49 and $59 respectivly. I don't know if I NEED it or WANT it.

[EarthDog]

Judging from your temps, you WANT it. There is clearly no NEED for it.

[Spawn-Inc]

i'm in the overkill boat as you've seen my build and i would grab some more rad if you have the money, space and plan to cool your gpu's later on. you can awalys reuse them later on. those temps are within safety limits so any rad you get is for your own peace of mind.

[Bobnova]

If your max temp is <55 and you don't want a higher OC, you don't need one.
I personally would want one, as i would be water cooling in search of very low temps. Personally i would go hunting for an automotive heater core and add that, costs a lot less that way.
(Ok really i'd buy a $32 shipped 97 civic radiator off ebay and use that, but that's because i'm a bit out there :P)

But yeah, you don't need one as your current system is keeping your CPU well below danger temps.

[Spawn-Inc]

the only problem with car rads (heater cores) are they need high cfm/pressure fans.

and with radiators they would put a strain on the pump.

but both are easily doable and have been since the beginning, hell thats what this all started with.

[Springbok]

Remember it's summertime, if your system is working without a hitch consider your cooling system good as-is! I switched from an acrylic res to a T line and everything is much easier to deal with, fewer tubes, fewer barbs, and less space taken up in the case. You've gotta spend too much to buy a good reservoir, IMO.

[Spawn-Inc]

Remember it's summertime, if your system is working without a hitch consider your cooling system good as-is! I switched from an acrylic res to a T line and everything is much easier to deal with, fewer tubes, fewer barbs, and less space taken up in the case. You've gotta spend too much to buy a good reservoir, IMO.


more barbs actually, a T uses 3, a res (if no tubing is hooked up to the fill port) and if you have a fill port for the T thats a 4th barb :)

but yes t lines are plenty good, especially for tight cases like the antec 900.

[baditude_df]

but yes t lines are plenty good, especially for tight cases like the antec 900.
Yup, Fo Sho. Just take longer to bleed your loop is all. No biggie.

You've gotta spend too much to buy a good reservoir, IMO.
MicroresV2. $22.95 at Sidewinders. That's not expensive for such a nice and functional piece of gear. I was a t-line man until I tried one of these. What a kick ass reservoir.

For the OP, I would agree with the rest in this thread when they say you really don't need the upgrade. Assuming that your temperature monitoring program is functioning properly and or you're reading it properly, you appear to be no where near the chips max temperature rating.

[Bobnova]

A straight up civic rad flows 13-20gpm(minute, mind you, not hour) with .5" of head pressure, not taxing to a pump at all :D


Not practical at all other, but whatever :P

[deadlyapollo]

Hehe, I always seem to want more. I was looking at that micro res v2, baditude and thats the one im going to get. I don't need a car heatercore as the computer made ones work just as well IMO. I' am really kind of a neat freak and I really don't like the look of those ugly *** heater cores. My house is almost always around 20-23C and the lowest temps I get with a 120.1 rad is 30-33C at 3.6ghz. I just want to know if a triple rad would bring it down anymore for it to be a practical buy.

That and I have been wondering, I looked on the watercooling stickies and it did not help me, I want everything to be internal as to have a shorter loop and have everything nice and neat. I know you have to have the coldest air coming through (of course) to get the coolest temps, since I have my Antec 1200 front fans bringing in fresh cold air in from the front, my temps should stay the same as if it was externally mounted right?

[baditude_df]

For the Rad yes, for the rest of your machine no. I've done this, and it works, but your ambient air temperature inside the case will be slightly higher. Shouldn't be an issue though.
I found it was a good idea to put a push pull configuration to keep the air moving through the rad, into the case and out the exhaust at a good clip.
I did the same thing in a 900: http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=558492

[deadlyapollo]

yea, ambient air in case is not an issue at all. According to bios it's at 27-30C with my CPU just above that. I really like the 1200's airflow. It makes me happy! :)

[baditude_df]

Airflow in the 900 is proportional to the 1200. You can fit a double rad in the 900 and a triple in the 1200 afaik. Your increase in internal air temperature will likely be proportional as well is what I'm trying to say. You can have the best airflow in the world, but your still putting a big restrictive rad in front of the intakes. The whole point of the rad is to have heat blown away from it, and that is going right into your case. It will be most noticable when the machine is under load (particularly if you use it to fold or crunch DC). Other than that, the airflow of the 1200 will take over and your internal temps will be only a few degrees higher than normal.

[deadlyapollo]

My problem is that I am in so much love with the case, Im trying not to cut it. Im looking for the optimal placement for the rad so my case looks it's best. I am constantly looking at it and when I do, I want it to look nice.....

[Conumdrum]

Want some links of an internal 120x2 times TWO in a 900? It's done with TONS of cutting, but not a lot and the outside looks marvy.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=211950
It's amazing and doable for sure.

Seen more than a few with a 120x2 put in the front with medium fans blowing into the case, but this one really really stands out as a awesome job.

My son is off to the military and will get his own PC in a year when his school is done. He's off to sub duty so he'll leave the old 900 behind (my old PC). Looks like I'll be doing the same as Petra did and having an awesome media PC someday.

I'm doing this yes I am, it's an awesome build by Petra. Just gonna copy it like crazy.

[deadlyapollo]

That was an awesome job but way beyond my abilities and tool limit as of now. Im in a apartment and im sure they won't take to kindly to my dremel cutting and spray painting. I already painted my porch plasma blue when I was modding my case, I can't afford to mess it up any more. I do like the idea of removing the drive bays and sticking a 120.3 rad in there with a push pull method going on. That would be nice :)

[baditude_df]

My problem is that I am in so much love with the case, Im trying not to cut it. Im looking for the optimal placement for the rad so my case looks it's best. I am constantly looking at it and when I do, I want it to look nice.....
Who said anything about cutting?

That was an awesome job but way beyond my abilities and tool limit as of now. Im in a apartment and im sure they won't take to kindly to my dremel cutting and spray painting. I already painted my porch plasma blue when I was modding my case, I can't afford to mess it up any more. I do like the idea of removing the drive bays and sticking a 120.3 rad in there with a push pull method going on. That would be nice :)
This is what I meant in my last post. Everything is removable.
If you read the link I posted above, the only real problem you will run into is how to fix the rad in place so it doesn't move around. I found a good way to do it if you have a look.

[deadlyapollo]

No, I was refering to what conumdrum posted. I had seen that picture before of the modded 1200's and 900's and I don't have the tools nor the skills to cut into my case. I am curious how you mount the rad to the sides of the case so air is pulled in through it.....

[Conumdrum]

Okay...,. It's pretty easy to put a 120x2 in the front of the 900, it still leaves you with two slots. You have to make a easy bracket/tape/glue to hold the rad in place. Google Antec 900 radiator. You'll get enuff hits to learn.

On to a pro setup:
The rads on the sides of the case is a whole another ballgame. An hour ++ if not more to cut the sides, another hour to cut the side panels, and by someone who is good at that. You can see it in the pics if you take the time to enjoy the postings. Build logs are like that, and it's a fun one with great results. Imagine removing/drilling out every single case rivet to paint and then putting it all back together. Not that hard but really time consuming for sure.

[deadlyapollo]

O I will be able to do that someday. In the process of learning. A simple paint mod was a good start, That triple Rad in front will be my next mod. My loop will then consist of Pump>Triple rad>CPU>single rad>Res>pump

[grishenko45]

like most people have said...you dont need one, but i bet you WANT one!!! just get a double if you decide to WC your gpu's at a later date, if not you might get slightly lower cpu temps (like 1 degree or something!)

[deadlyapollo]

Well, i finally bit the bullet and got two swift tech GPU blocks, ramsinks, a new pump (DD pro something) and a 120.3 Swifttech rad. $230 later, I am going to mount the Rad were the HDD bays are but am still going to use the tri cool fans on the Rad. I will post pics when I am done. (I hate contradicting myself)

[grishenko45]

gd choice to water cool your gpus, with a triple rad you should have nice temps!!