Kandalf LCS configuration

[JulesKor]

Hi,

I'm a new member here and have been inspired by some of the mods to the Kandalf LCS posted here and I would like to improve my system with the aid of your advice.
Currently I have a standard Kandalf LCS set-up (stock pump, rad, res, CPU block). I have also added to my single loop, 2 x TT Aqua RX Series-R1a RAM blocks, TT GPU block, EK NB block, EK SB block and 2 x EK mosfet blocks.
My loop is: pump -> 1/4" RAM cooler -> 1/4" RAM cooler -> 3/8" CPU cooler -> 1/4" GPU cooler -> 3/8" mosfet cooler -> 3/8" mosfet cooler -> 3/8" NB cooler -> 3/8" SB cooler -> TT radiator
My mobo is an Asus P5K-E WiFi/AP running a Q9450 @ 3400Mhz (temps are about 32 degrees C idle and up to 61 degrees C running Intel burn test) and 2 x 2GB DDR2 800 RAM clocked @ 850MHz.
Apart from the fact I am running inferior cooling equipment, I think my cooling is also impeded by running through 2 different sizes at 2 different points in the loop.
What I would like to do is run the larger stock radiator with a Swiftech MCP-655 pump, EK-Supreme - Plexi CPU block and EK-Bay Spin Reservoir Acetal through a first loop consisting of all my 3/8" blocks (CPU -> mosfet -> mosfet -> NB -> SB). Then run a second loop using a Swiftech MCR120-QP Radiator attached internally to the rear 120mm FAN and using the stock TT pump and res to take care of my 1/4" components (RAM cooler -> RAM cooler -> GPU cooler).
What do you think? Would this help improve performance?

[Spawn-Inc]

it would greatly help to get rid of all that thermaltake stuff. there is no need for ram water cooling ever so i wouldn't invest more money in cooling it. also i would upgrade your gpu block to something other then tt.

the revised cpu loop looks great but what rad will you be using for it?

have a look through this http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:hokiealumnus&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86

[atomic ferret]

You don't want to use the Supreme in a loop with all those other blocks. Also, how do you plan on using the MCP655 with 3/8" tubing?

[JulesKor]

Hi Spawn-Inc

Thanks for the reply. If I took the RAM LC out of the loop, would I run the GPU block on its own loop through a single 120mm radiator and run the CPU, mosfets, NB and SB blocks through the triple 120mm radiator? I was just hoping I could get by using the standard TT radiator.
I would prefer to keep everything internal, so I was hoping to use the single radiator attached to the rear case fan.
The revised set-up I put forward, with coolant and tubing, etc. is going to cost $AUD454 at the moment, so I didn't want to bump the price up any more if I can avoid it.

Hi atomic ferret,
My bad, I see that the MCP655 is 1/2". I clearly didn't think that through. Is it worth running an adapter barb to convert 1/2" to 3/8"?

[ChanceCoats123]

No, you could probably get away with 7/16 tubing (in between 1/2 inch and 3/8) and that way with worm clamps you could fit it onto 3/8 barbs, but still (possibly get enough stretch to get it onto 1/2 barbs.

[Spawn-Inc]

dammit, your from aus, so parts are hard to get and cost alot. if you can afford it i would change it but you might as well keep it till the stuff dies.

you can, i've been told and have seen it, put 3/8" tubing on a 1/2" barb, but you need to put the tip of the tubing in boiling water to soften it up. but adapters are cheap enough so might as well make things easy.

[hokiealumnus]

The problem with your current radiator is that it's Thermaltake (ha, ha...ok, I crack myself up)...seriously, the problem is that it's made of aluminum. Mixed-metal loops are bad juju. They lead to corrosion over time and that's not fun to clean up, if it can be cleaned up and doesn't ruin your proposed blocks.

I wouldn't run 3/8-1/2" adapters. Why not get an MCP355 + the aftermarket top of your choice (stock really is bad compared with the alternatives) + 3/8" barbs instead? Or, if you're really wanting to run the MCP655, get an after market top for it + 3/8" barbs.

If you really want to run blocks on all of that stuff, I'd leave the SB alone (no need to water cool it, especially on LGA775 platforms) and run the CPU & NB on one loop and GPU & MOSFETs on another. As Spawn mentioned, RAM water cooling is rather pointless and will only operate to the detriment of your loop.

[JulesKor]

Hi hokiealumnus,

I can get the MCP355 here in Australia for $AUD30 cheaper than the MCP655, but I've read that the 355 is considerably louder than the 655? Also, what do you mean by "+ the aftermarket top of your choice"?
I will have to stick with the TT rad for now, but will hopefully change it later (I mean hopefully before the thing corrodes and leaks all over the place).

My Asus board had a pseudo-heatpipe thingy that was super hot to the touch under load and filled with nothing. I think it was actually aluminium painted copper - very nasty.

As far as the rad for the second loop would the single 120mm rad suffice to cool the GPU and mosfets?

[Conumdrum]

I run TWO MCP355 with the XSPC restop. They are silent. And My rig is quiet, and the pumps are quiettttt. They are silent.

Quiet. The MCP 355 aka DDC3.2 is a awesome awesome pump. Sooo many watercoolers run it.

[JulesKor]

I have just read through hokiealumnus's "Water cooling guide for beginners" and WOW! great guide, a lot to take in in a short time, but very informative. I'm a little more lost now than when I started and don't really know which way to turn.
I guess making this a competition to see who can come up with the best solution for me is out of the question?
These are the options available to me here (http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=207_160) or here (http://www.chilledpc.com.au/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=3). If anyone is interested in sifting through this and coming up with a good solution, I will be eternally grateful. Well, in any case, I would praise you a lot.
I would like to keep my "EK-NB/SB ASUS 1 - Plexi", "EK-NB/SB ASUS 4 - Plexi" and my "EK-Mosfet ASUS 1 - Plexis". I am happy to change/add a better pump, a second radiator, superior CPU block and GPU (8500GT) block. Would a pic of my current set-up help? I can post one when I get home from work tonight.

[Conumdrum]

The solution is really up to you. With research, good questions, your ability and budget you should be okay.

Keep at it, don't look for an easy fix. Find the right fix.

More links:
Guides
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=282232 Pretty up to date info and buying guide HAS AU STORES AT THE BOTTOM
http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:hokiealumnus&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86 Another good guide
http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=312743 What to do once all the stuff is in the door
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=223835 Many build logs on MANY cases, great learning tool.

My latest rig:
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=604016

Forums
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/index.php? Not a noob site, but great stickies
http://www.ocforums.com/ My fav, good peeps, know their stuff, less hardcore
http://www.over-clock.com/ivb/inde [...] opic=20277 A GREAT Europe site
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/ Decent site

Tests on equipment, not reviews, truly scientific tests
http://translate.google.com/transl [...] n&ie=UTF-8 Info on rad testing
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=220593 More rad testing
http://skinneelabs.com/ Host for Martins lab and some newer tests
http://www.skinneelabs.com/MartinsLiquidLab/ Test results, very technical


Stores
http://www.dangerden.com
http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/
http://www.performance-pcs.com
http://www.frozencpu.com/

[hokiealumnus]

Thanks for the compliment! Unfortunately you're correct, no one but yourself can come up with the best solution for you.

Keeping your present blocks is an option, I don't see why not. However, since they've been run with aluminum, I'd highly recommend you given them a thorough cleaning when you tear the system down. If possible, take them apart and take a toothbrush to them. If not, rinse the heck out of them with tap water as hot as you can stand it, then run some distilled through them to get rid of anything the tap might have left.

Since money is an issue being in Australia and you have 3/8" barbs already on the blocks you want to keep, stick with 3/8"...it won't negatively impact performance (well, the impact is negligible).

Now, running NB, SB, MOSFET (x2), CPU & GPU blocks in a single loop is not necessarily a good idea. The restriction from all of those blocks adds up. You're most of the way to a dual loop system though. The only reason I'm asking this is due to the pricing restrictions - how long have you had your Tt pump? If you have enough money to replace it, great; if not and it's not too old, it may suffice until you do (but keep an eye on it!).

Do you have your stock HS for the SB? I assure you, water cooling a SB is not really necessary at all. If you're stuck on keeping it, here's what I'd do in your situation:


First, start by getting the RAM coolers and anything 1/4" out of the system. Replace the stock RAM sinks.
Next, get rid of that flow meter.
Replace the radiator in the front of the case with a better, copper 120.3 unit (loving my Swiftech MCR-320, FWIW).
Get your 120.1 for the rear of the case.
Since this scenario is keeping the SB block, I'd run the loops as follows:
Res > Pump > 120.3 Rad > CPU > GPU > back to Res
Res > Pump > 120.1 Rad > MOSFET 1 > MOSFET 2 > NB > SB > back to Res
If you decide to take the SB out (recommended), I'd run them like this:
Res > Pump > 120.3 Rad > CPU > NB > back to Res
Res > Pump > 120.1 Rad > MOSFET 1 > MOSFET 2 > GPU > back to Res
Some will present other options; there are any number of combinations that would work for you, these are just a couple theoretical runs.

That's my $.02 this early in the morning. Don't just do what I said though, I'm not that smart. Do the research and decide which solution is best for you. Hold on to your funds until you're sure you've come upon what works best. Get it right the first time, then you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor!

[JulesKor]

Thanks hokiealumnus,
I think that's just what I need to hear.
To get the 1/4" out of the system I can get the Swiftech MCW60 VGA Waterblock (I think it's 8500GT compatible). There's a newer version I think the Swiftech MCW60-R but not sure if that will work (and not sure if I can get it in Aus).
I can also get the Swiftech MCR320-QP Radiator. I've noticed some differences in dimensions between the stock rad and the MCR320-QP Rad (Swiftech MCR320-QP Radiator Dimensions W=128mm H=410mm D=34mm v Kandalf LCS stock Radiator Dimensions W=120mm H=407mm D=35mm) Would the stock TT radiator support bracket fit on the new rad?
I still have the stock SB heatsink, but it's a low quality aluminium painted to look like copper number so I will have to source something else if I take it out of the loop.
Thanks again, I very much appreciate your help. Everyone's help so far.

[ricflairw000]

http://www.petrastechshop.com/
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/
http://www.jab-tech.com/

I have dealt with these vendors they are great!

[hokiealumnus]

Ric, he's in Australia. While Sidewinder ships internationally of the three, I doubt it's reasonable for him to do so.

As far as fitting the rad in your current brackets, you'll have to see if they have enough play to allow the adjustment. If not, you may have to fabricate something.

[icebob]

Ric, he's in Australia. While Sidewinder ships internationally of the three, I doubt it's reasonable for him to do so.

As far as fitting the rad in your current brackets, you'll have to see if they have enough play to allow the adjustment. If not, you may have to fabricate something.

You just flip your mounting brackets over and you need to build yourself 4 little brackets with 2 holes on and the swiftech fit fine in the front door

[JulesKor]

Thanks guys,
Icebob, your sig says you have the Kandalf and the rad upgrad, can you upload or email an image of the brackets you're referring to?