Help! New mcx462 installation problem.

[x94blair3]

Ok, not sure if anyone has had this problem or not, but after some consulting here, I decided to upgrade to the swiftech heatsink. It shows up and seems great. However, I installed the heatsink and now everything will spin up, but nothing "fires" so to speak. It doesn't go to the BIOS, and the monitor doesn't get green from being initialized.

I have removed and reapplyed serveral times. This last time I noticed that the outside ring of arctic siver II was on the heatsink (from brushing out when applying I guess), but the middle of the heatsink ring had very little paste. It's almost like the center is "doming" and not making contact. I think it's preventing the CPU from starting...

Although when I was using the other heatsink even if it wouldn't boot up, it would at least hit bios even at a hot temp. So it must REALLY not be making contact if this is the case.

Anyone use this heatsink or have any suggestions as to what might be the problem? I think I'll test the system with the old heatsink just to make sure something else crazy hasn't happened :(

Help!!!

Nick

[instant]

I'm having trouble with this heatsink myself.

I must be lame in the head or something, but my cpu is probably 30C higher than it should be,and i have this mcx462 which should be 'super'..

Perhaps I Should try using double "plastic thingys" and see if that improves the temperature..

I dont suppose it would have a negative effect if the heatsink is REALLY tight on the cpu core?

[f155mph]

Um you sure you put on the heatsink right the first time? If you are not getting anything you might have fried you chip. I have the MC462a and I never have that problem. I always crank the hsf down to make sure it have good contact. Try putting on your old hsf and see what happen.

[res0r9lm]

if you don't have raised lip washers inside holes it will keep heat sink from make contact with core. if you have mb with the small holes there are special washer that you are suppose to use

[res0r9lm]

ok just check site if mb has large holes use shouldered washer.
if you have the small holes use the black fiber washers and if you have grounded holes(holes with metal ring)you need not use any washer at all on mb

[instant]

Well, the A7V266-E board I have has grounded holes, so I did not use any washers,guess I should just screw it tighter.. just reapply the arctic alumina compound first.

[x94blair3]

Yes, I'm afraid I may have fried the chip. The first time I did have problems getting it down all the way (although I didn't really realize it till I see how efficient it is now). It wasn't "turned on" for very long though so I can't believe it would have burned up that quick. However, I put the old heatsink on, and I assume I should at lest get some BIOS action and I get nothing :(.

And although I guess it could be a bunch of other stuff, since that's the one think that was "modified", I would find it hard to believe it's something else. I tried reseeding the ram, etc and nothing. I assume the MB is okay because it seems to make everything spin up ok...haha.

Just no turn on "beep" and action.

Very sad...it's hard to believe I was getting that poor a contact. Love burning money!... :(

[instant]

If i start playing a 3D game the my cpu will also burn up,atleast if I should trust the two different temperature sensors on the A7V266-E with a difference of 15C! between them!!.. right now I'm using the one "supposedly" for XP processor, showing 51C.. the other would have shown 66c!..

The swiftech 462B is one nasty motherf*r... to fasten..

And those plastic 'things' are not very good.

[res0r9lm]

Originally posted by instant
Well, the A7V266-E board I have has grounded holes, so I did not use any washers,guess I should just screw it tighter.. just reapply the arctic alumina compound first.
make sure you tighten them in a criss cross pattern just for piece of mind that it is making good contact also might just be your board reporting the wrong temp asus board's are infamous for reporting to high by atleast 5c

[res0r9lm]

Originally posted by x94blair3
Yes, I'm afraid I may have fried the chip. The first time I did have problems getting it down all the way (although I didn't really realize it till I see how efficient it is now). It wasn't "turned on" for very long though so I can't believe it would have burned up that quick. However, I put the old heatsink on, and I assume I should at lest get some BIOS action and I get nothing :(.

And although I guess it could be a bunch of other stuff, since that's the one think that was "modified", I would find it hard to believe it's something else. I tried reseeding the ram, etc and nothing. I assume the MB is okay because it seems to make everything spin up ok...haha.

Just no turn on "beep" and action.

Very sad...it's hard to believe I was getting that poor a contact. Love burning money!... :(
unplug for a minute or 2 then plug back in and see if it will boot if not you know what up....good luck

[x94blair3]

The problem i was having was the anchor for putting the screw into and the nylon nut system through the board didn't seem to secure very well. So then it starts spinning. I finally had to work (very carefully) with crazy glue as suggested to secure the fastners that recieve the long screws. As I said it may be too late now! arrrghhH...

[x94blair3]

Yes, trust me...it's been on and off at least 20 times since last night. unless I forgot to plug something back in, I don't know what else it could be. And i'm pretty sure everything is indeed plugged back in :(

Wife will be happy about that one ;)

[res0r9lm]

Originally posted by instant
If i start playing a 3D game the my cpu will also burn up,atleast if I should trust the two different temperature sensors on the A7V266-E with a difference of 15C! between them!!.. right now I'm using the one "supposedly" for XP processor, showing 51C.. the other would have shown 66c!..

The swiftech 462B is one nasty motherf*r... to fasten..

And those plastic 'things' are not very good.

Modern Intel CPUs incorporate an internal thermal diode that can be read by a few select motherboards. While this diode and the motherboard circuits are not calibrated and therefore may not display the actual temperature, the error is constant. (I.e. 30 is actually 34, 40 is actually 44, 45 is actually 49.) Since the design goal of a thermal solution is to keep the CPU core within allowable temperatures, Intel's internal diode is the only valid means of comparison between different heatsinks, or thermal compounds. The diode and motherboard may lie a bit about the actual temperature, but they will tell the same lie every time. So when a compound or heatsink change results in a 5 degree CPU temperature change you will see a 5 degree change

here is a link on how to caliblate diode here (http://arcticsilver.com/diode_calibration.htm)

[x94blair3]

The wierd thing is that it did it the very first time (when I obviously wasn't making contact). it didn't beep or hit the bios or anything from the very first try....what did it do? isnta-fry? I would have thought I would have gotten something the first time and then it died or something with overheating. but from starting it hadn't done anything except start spinning the fans and checking the drives. very disappointing. Of course i could have just jacked up the cables, but I find that hard to believe at this point.

[res0r9lm]

yea it only takes a second to fry

[Ozzman]

nope takes 4 secs to fry a athlon also u did screw it in evenly right? i mean u did not screw on side or corner all the way then the others right?? because ive heard without a shim u could crack like that.. u should do a little then go to the opsite corner do a little there and repeat with the others till they are all done (basing this on the pal8045 info i know)

[res0r9lm]

sounds like you have a little experence on burning them up:)

[res0r9lm]

I have only killed duron's

[x94blair3]

Well, I can't say that it wouldn't have been on 4 seconds...because it must have taken that long to realize the video wasn't "starting" so to speak. So I guess that's what I probably did. I would love to say it's something else, but I spent a good 10+ hours last night trying different configurations. So it looks like I either cracked the cpu or burned it up I guess. Guess I'll be getting another one...after 1 week. Yipes. At least the price has come down $20 already.....

[f155mph]

Bad news I think you fried it. I fried mine too a few weeks back. It only take 8 sec to kill a Tbird. So by the time the monitor come on it already too late. Yes those nylon nuts suck, I super glue my to the mobo. But one of them strip out on me and I can't get it off. I would switch to metal lock nuts, I think they will work better and won't spin and strip so easy. I am waiting to see how much the 2200+ with .13 is. If it too expensive I might go *ntel since they o/c so nice with the northwood.

[x94blair3]

I had purchased the 1800+, not sure what I'll do now. hard to believe I'm already out a cpu. But I guess live and learn...expensively.

All because i wanted it to run COOLER!!!...guess everything is running cooler right now...arrghhhh

[muddocktor]

I have 1 of the original mc462's and it didn't come with the good directions like they come with now. It took me a while to figure out that the shoulder washers wouldn't work on the KK266 board I had then, but I checked everything out before I put the motherboard back in the case and noticed that the heatsink wasn't making good contact with the core. I went ahead and subbed some thin plastic washers I manufactured out of a clorox bottle and didn't have any problems after that. Those plastic nuts do kind of suck in that they are easy to strip out. I'm presently using the Alpha 8045 on my t-bird but I'm about to switch back because I think the MC462 is a little better hsf. Also, I thought that the stock springs didn't put enough tension so I made some stronger springs for it out of a long spring that I bought from Ace hardware.

[Ozzman]

well the 8045 and the mc462 seems to be the same amount of cooling and i dont think its worth 35 extra bucks for .5 to 1 degree less do u??

also i have a kk266plus r and i just ordered a alpha and should be here tomarrow or after tomarrow and i was wonding if i should use the stock plastic nuts.. what do u think??

P.S LOL yeah i burned my first chip a while back that i had ordered from a site BUT a few calls later and 40 min drive and i had a new cpu in my hands had to pay for 15 restocking but i thought it was well worth it then to pay for a new CPU

[res0r9lm]

the swiftech mcxc370 is supposed to cool better than alpha.



Swiftech MC462A: .30 c/w
Swiftech MCX462: .31 c/w
Swiftech MCXC370: .32 c/w
Alpha PAL 8045: . 34 c/w
Cooler Master HHC-001: .34 c/w
Millennium Glaciator II: .34 c/w

[instant]

Lets just add that "Junkyard Tech(tm) ûbercooler" would probably run an AMD 1800XP overclocked to 2GHZ cooler than my AMD 1800XP at 1.5ghz (default) with Swiftech 462B is running at the moment.

Atleast, that is IF i trust the onboard sensors..
Cant even trust them, can I ..

A r g H !


So.

I can create my own nylon strips.
OR
Use "bolts".

Perhaps I should try that, find some metal thingy, use something inbetween so I dont short circuit the s.o.b, and then screw it -"# &"- tight with pliers, then try fastening the s.o.b Swiftech 462B once more...

If that does'nt work i'm driving 100KiloMetres to the store I purchased my cooling gear from and ask them to install it... coz i'm obviously Cooling-impaired.

[x94blair3]

Quick update, the chip was fried. I can't believe it went that quick. However upon testing it all, that was the broken piece. Expensive lesson. However, I think I've perfected the installation now so I don't see how I'll possibly have the problem now!!!! (famous last words)

Nick