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DS3L P35

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cooling2027

New Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2009
Had a question about my Northbridge temps. My Sys temp temp reads 35C at idle and load . When I use the gmch overvolt even to + .3, the temp stays the same again at idle and load which is 35C. I had the case side off and the temp actually moved to about 36-38C. Once I slap the side back on it eventually went down to 35C. In Everest, The NB Voltage still reads 1.25 even when I increase to + .3 in bios. Do I have a problem here?! I can't tell if the option in the bios is actually increasing the voltage. Cannot reach stable fsb speeds above 437~ with e8500.
 
northbridge temp

No you don’t have a problem yet. That northbridge can be pushed even farther. And the fact that the voltage set in bios in not the voltage seen in Windows is a normal thing, Vdroop having the biggest influence there. You should consider buying decent northbridge fan if you plan to OC more. DS3L series of motherboards has passive heatsink that cannot be removed, so u shouldn’t (can’t) buy passive cooling solutions. You also asked about the mobo temp when you remove case side of the computer. Have no answer for you there, the whole system should be cooler, except if the air or room temps are higher than those in your case. Could be something with your intrusion detection system that mobo has, but that wouldn’t raise the temps. Is maybe some kind of blower or heat source near the computer and is directed in the diretion of your case?

Also what are your specs when overclocking?
 
:welcome: to ocf good case air flow is a must for cooling mb and parts as the nb memory good fan in front pulling in cool air fan in the back pushing out hot air Rich
 
My specs

E8500 437x9.5 vcore 1.318, 1.264 under load.
OCZ Reaper 2x2gb @ 1093 15-5-5-5

PCI, FSB, MCH are at normal as no matter what these are at i still can't overclock past 437ish stable. Also the heatsink only feels warms not burning hot. Still investin in fan tomorrow and I will try that. This processor runs stable at such low voltage. I've increase cpu vcore with no luck. I've determined either i'm hittin the cpu wall which I highly doubt. Or the board just will not become stable past 437. The board will easily post @ 500x9.5 and even load into windows. Just not stable.
 
if your worried about nb temps just pop some as5 TIM on the stock heatsink and a 40mm fan on top of the stock heatsink, that will do wonders to keep temps down.

i love my p35 ds3l.
 
reply

I’m running P45 chipset and an EP45-DS3L mb, heard that P35 isn’t that stable at high speeds as 45 is but nonetheless u have to be aware that some CPU-s just can’t reach 4.5GHz. You should be happy with 4GHz!!! You should definitely buy some cooling solutions for your case as w2richwood mentioned. It’s a good investment (or buy some good wine, good stakes and have a garden party).

Before I start to tell you what I would do different in OC-ing yr configuration make sure you have the latest BIOS update, maybe that’s the (easy fixable) problem. Some BIOS-s are more stable then the other (especially if they are new, and if u r running Vista).

My suggestion is that your Vcore is a maybe a tad higher than I would go with that CPU (if you use it in everyday computer and u want it to live forever). My e8400 reaches 4 GHz with only 1.27500. Also what is your CPU stepping? In Everest CPUID you should be able to see your stepping. You should up your CPU termination to 1.34V cause of your high FSB. CPU PLL should be manually set to stock and CPU reference left on auto. MCH Core should be up also, with 4GB of high speed RAM I would go up to 1.4V, but you should likely hit the jackpot at 1.3V. Use some more voltage for yr RAM than recommended by manufacturers’ website. OCZ can take it (we all hope). And make sure you don’t push the RAM too much, it can ruin a perfectly good overclock. Use yr RAM stock speed, if u can, and set RAM to auto timings in BIOS (at first, later on you can set them manual to value you prefer). If you have to OC your RAM, try to OC it as little as possible. There is one option in BIOS that lets you choose RAM settings out of the box, DRAM performance enhance, choose Standard when you’re overclocking. Never leave any of the options on auto if you don’t have to, Gigabyte loves to overvolt (except CPU and MCH reference, like I said, leave those on auto, those r just a matter of simple mathematics, not even Gigabyte can mess those up)!
 
Never thank for any reply someone posted. We are just doing it to see if you’ll post again saying that your whole house burnt in flames (never mind the computer). Than we put a tick by your old configuration and we swear to ourselves that we won’t do it the same way you did. Later on, we do it anyway, just to see if we can pull it off.
 
My CPU is E0 stepping A. I had AS5 on the heatsink already and bought a 40mm fan today. The heatsink is much cooler but the overclock is still the same. I would believe either I've reached max freq of this chip or the motherboard far as the front side bus. Even with the multi at 437+x6 it is still unstable. I am tempted to purchase the DFI LP LT X48-T2R or a similar gigabyte version for more head room for graphics upgrade. Bought thisboard when it first came out.
 
You can’t reach wanted frequency by reducing your multiplier. Why you wonder? It affects the real fsb clock. It goes something like this; original multiplier divided by set multiplier times fsb. So in your case 9.5 (or 10 maybe) /6 * 437 = 691 MHz of real fsb on your Nb, no wonder the board can’t take it. Ideally you should raise only multiplier when you OC, but on e8500 or no-extreme editions CPU-s we don’t have that luxury. Raise FSB, don’t lower multiplier. Do agree that you maybe reached the max out of P35 chipset. My advice is to go for Gigabyte EP45-DS3X board, much cheaper solution, good BIOS (at least you are familiar with it) and as I can see u only use one VGA card (you don’t want to use CrossFire, right?).

I myself have EP45-DS3L and it can overclock like no other, warm recommendations. If you go for gigabyte solution stay in touch, i have few tricks up my sleeve.
 
PiratX - DS3L series of motherboards has passive heatsink that cannot be removed, so u shouldn’t (can’t) buy passive cooling solutions

Since when cant you remove NB heatsink on DS3L series M/B ,, I have one and have a HR-05 on it which is a much better cooling solution
 
I know for a fact that u can`t remove heatsink of my EP45-DS3L motherboard. Maybe it`s the revision number that makes them different. I have 1.0 revision, plus i live in Europe, lots of hardware here differs from hardware sold in US stores.
 
I know for a fact that u can`t remove heatsink of my EP45-DS3L motherboard. Maybe it`s the revision number that makes them different. I have 1.0 revision, plus i live in Europe, lots of hardware here differs from hardware sold in US stores.

the p35 is very diffrent form your p45, I have a p35 DS3L and I can remove my NB heatsink
 
AHCI SATA

So how many of you guys use SATA AHCI? Tried it myself on Win7 and it works fine but disk bursts rate are lower and overall speed doesn`t increase. I don`t plan to use ncq or hotpluging so i wonder should i leave it on or not?
All my testing suggest OFF! But it`s new, and it should be useful when multitasking. What are your opinions??? Write me a line, will you!
 
I know it's been a while guys since I posted anything. I found a MSI x48c board from Tiger Direct for 99 bucks. Works like a champ currently prime 95'in at 465x9.5. Doing 1mhz increments for now. Just taking my time and adjusting settings accordingly. I also bought a XFX 4870 1 Gb and 700 OCZ Mod PS. I wonder if it was a power supply problem. Had an Ultra 580 Watt before. But either way if it was my board or power supply. I'm happy I can use dd3 or dd2 and xfire support. I7 not looking so tasty now :santa:
 
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