New to WC and Seeking Suggestions

[Phantom9309]

Hi guys! I'm currently thinking about wc'ing my Q6600. My current case is the Silverstone TJ09 and I'm using an EVGA 680i mb. I'm basically trying get my feet wet and squeeze out some performance so I can hold out for at least another year before I do complete system rebuild. :)

I am looking to spend around $200 and would prefer to buy all the parts separately so I have experience doing that. Here is what I've priced out from performance-pcs.com:

EK-Supreme LT (LIGHT) CPU Water Block (S 775, 1156, 1366) - Acetal
- Fitting Size 3/8" Barb for 3/8" ID tube

Black Ice® GT Stealth 240 XFlow Highest Performance Radiator
- Radiator Color Onyx Black
- Fitting Size 3/8" OD

Swiftech MCP350™ 12 VDC Pump

Siverstone RadSupport09 - Radiator Support for TJ09/TJ10 Chassis

ClearFlex 60 Tubing 3/8" ID 5/8" OD

Koolance Reusable Hose Clamp [10mm, 3/8" OD]

Polypropylene "T" Fitting 3/8"

Total Price: $179.69 (before shipping)

At first I had all the parts with a 1/2" fittings but I switched them all to 3/8" because the pump had 3/8" barbs on it. Wasn't sure if I could convert that on the pump. Also I'm a little confused about the ID/OD after the fitting sizes. I didn't go with a reservoir because I wanted to save some money and figured I should at least try a T line once in my wc career.

Other questions that I have. Will I need to wc my current mb's chipset? And do you think reusing this dual 120 rad in the future is worth it. I ask because I'd like to run a dual loop for my future system build. It seems like running 2 triple 120s is the most ideal set up. But do you think one loop with either a dual and a single 120 or two dual 120s will be enough for a cpu/nb/sb?

So to recap. Does my parts list look complete/correct? What is the difference between ID/OD for fittings? Should I wc my mb's chipset. What is the useful life for radiators? Should I go with a triple 120 or single/dual 120 or 2 dual 120 rad setup in the future?

[Spawn-Inc]

parts list looks good accept for the rad, its not that good with it being so thin and the single pass part of it.

i would go with a swiftech dual or triple 120mm rad.
other then that it looks good.

[jr1]

Agreed on the swiftech rad
For a little ore futureproofing i would go for a triple rad ,
that way you would have a way better chanse to just move it over to your next cpu when that time comes

[hokiealumnus]

+1 to the Swiftech triple rad.

Pump: Any reason you're going with the 350 instead of the 355? In either case, I'd suggest replacing the top with an aftermarket solution. Those pumps are great, but really come into their own with an a/m top. It will also allow you to go with 1/2" barbs if you'd like.

NB/SB: You'll run out of gas on the 680i before you will need to push enough volts to hurt it. They just don't like clocking quads (or duals for that matter). Not trying to insult your board, just being up front. If you do start pushing enough volts to hurt it, you'll only get a few more MHz and it won't be worth the trouble. Good airflow on there should be all you need.

Since you're new to the scene, feel free to read around. This Water Cooling Guide for Beginners (http://gilgameshreviews.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:water-cooling-guide-for-beginners&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=86) will explain the diff between I/D & O/D among other things.

Any more questions, just ask!

[deadlysyn]

Also, I would like to recommend Jab-Tech (http://www.jab-tech.com) for your parts. Their prices are a little lower, shipping rates are a bit cheaper, and their service can't be beat. They also have a rep who is a member here, and he checks in quite regularly, in case you have any questions.

Also, a big +1 for the Swiftech rads. I am getting ready to take the dive, so I have been doing a lot of research, and quite a bit of the Swiftech stuff seems to be getting rave reviews.

[hank123]

Also, I would like to recommend Jab-Tech (http://www.jab-tech.com) for your parts. Their prices are a little lower, shipping rates are a bit cheaper, and their service can't be beat. They also have a rep who is a member here, and he checks in quite regularly, in case you have any questions.

Also, a big +1 for the Swiftech rads. I am getting ready to take the dive, so I have been doing a lot of research, and quite a bit of the Swiftech stuff seems to be getting rave reviews.

yes Jab-Tec is bad ass! I have a 120x3 and it works great but I would rather have a nice thick swiftech.

[billb]

At first I had all the parts with a 1/2" fittings but I switched them all to 3/8" because the pump had 3/8" barbs on it. Wasn't sure if I could convert that on the pump. The reason for using 1/2" tubing is because it will give you higher flow rates (less restriction for the pump to work against) not because it just happens to match the barb size on the pump. You can always use a 3/8" x 1/2" adapter.

[Phantom9309]

Thanks for the replies! :beer:

Hokiealumnus - your link to that guide was most helpful! Thanks

Deadlysyn - Jab-Tech is awesome!

So going off of Jab-Tech's site. My new parts list:

Swiftech Storm Universal Waterblock Rev 2
Swiftech MCR320-QP-K Triple 120mm Radiator
Swiftech MCP655-B™ 12 VDC Pump Without speed controller
Swiftech RadBox MCB-120 Revision 2 - Black
XSPC G1/4 Barb to 1/2" Fitting
1/2" T Line for 1/2" ID Tubing - Black
Plastic Tubing Clamps - Black
ClearFLEX 60 Tubing 1/2" ID / 3/4" OD

Is there anything else I need? Also do you think the MCP 655 is too much? It was the same price as the MCP355, plus already had 1/2" barbs on it. So I said why not. Just a little worried that it will be too much for just cooling my cpu. How many feet of tubing would you suggest I get for my first build? I'm going to have to mount my radiator out side and probably mounting the pump in the 5.25 bay area.

[Conumdrum]

Thats an old CPU block, any reason you chose it? There is better for sure.

There is only 4 pumps we recommend. In decending order.
DDC3.25
DDC3.2
D5 vario
D5 non vario < your pump

Your fine with the pump you selected. Now the CPU block? Have you read ANY modern reviews/tests?
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/
http://www.skinneelabs.com/

And here is another big helpful buncha guides etc. Take your time, your looking good so far.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

[Daddyjaxx]

That's the reason that block is now 20 something dollars and not 90 like it used to be when it was the flagship of CPU blocks. It looks like they are out of stock of the 775 GTZ.

If you are looking for good, cheap blocks:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_495&products_id=25213

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_498_494&products_id=22739

And lastly, a very good block for 35.00.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708019

[Phantom9309]

Hmm, well after reading some of those reviews, I'm thinking of going with the Swiftech Apogee XT. I like the free lga 775 mounting plate that I can get from swiftech and the option to use it on a future cpu. I am a little worried that lga 1366 will be worthless by the time I do my system re-haul. I'm really caught between saving money and having options in the future.

My predictions for when I do build a new system is that I'll be doing it in 2-3 phases. First phase will be parts with the intention of high end performance. Phase 2 will most likely be my first loop for the CPU/MB, also a new case but that might happen in phase 1 (ATM I love the Obsidian 800d) Phase 3 will be the second loop for the gpu(s). I do plan on making my system aesthetically pleasing, so most likely I'll need to build a new cooling system.

I'm hoping to use the cooling parts I buy today for phase 1. I'm not going to go crazy on the over clocking during this phase but I'm thinking I can use it some gauge for my future need on lc components. Is it pointless to think this far ahead?

I was also wondering if it would be worth it to lc a dedicated physx card. I was thinking of getting two top of the line gpu cards and get a decent card to be my physx.

[Daddyjaxx]

The next generation of Intel CPU's will probably not be on 1156 or 1366, so neither would have the longetivity of 775.

[Spawn-Inc]

since your changing pumps, i would grab some masterkleer 7/16" ID x 5/8" OD tubing instead of the clearflex 60. i have tried both and masterkleer is much better imo.

3/4" OD tubing is bulky, the 5/8" still gives you the big tubing feel but is easier to use.

[doz]

Id look into the new Swiftech XT waterblock. Its supposed to outperform the HK 3.0 by a small margin.

[hokiealumnus]

Hmm, well after reading some of those reviews, I'm thinking of going with the Swiftech Apogee XT. I like the free lga 775 mounting plate that I can get from swiftech and the option to use it on a future cpu. I am a little worried that lga 1366 will be worthless by the time I do my system re-haul. I'm really caught between saving money and having options in the future.

My predictions for when I do build a new system is that I'll be doing it in 2-3 phases. First phase will be parts with the intention of high end performance. Phase 2 will most likely be my first loop for the CPU/MB, also a new case but that might happen in phase 1 (ATM I love the Obsidian 800d) Phase 3 will be the second loop for the gpu(s). I do plan on making my system aesthetically pleasing, so most likely I'll need to build a new cooling system.

I'm hoping to use the cooling parts I buy today for phase 1. I'm not going to go crazy on the over clocking during this phase but I'm thinking I can use it some gauge for my future need on lc components. Is it pointless to think this far ahead?

I was also wondering if it would be worth it to lc a dedicated physx card. I was thinking of getting two top of the line gpu cards and get a decent card to be my physx.
No need to worry about sockets with Swiftech. They are always good about adapting their blocks to new sockets. The MCW-60 has been around for a couple generations now and gets updated regularly with new brackets.

The Obsidian is a very good looking case; wish I could get one. Be sure to share pics!

Hmm....not sure if you need to water cool a physx card. Doubtful, but it certainly wouldn't hurt if you have the money to spend on it.

[deadlysyn]

Also, you can save around $15 plus shipping by using bolts and nuts instead of the RadBox. Someone around here has a link in their sig about a water cooled RC690, which demonstrates it perfectly.

Edit: I feel :screwy: Look one post above this one, in hokie's sig. :p

[muddocktor]

The thing I do like about the Radbox is that it deflects the warm air being bvlown out of your case by the back side case fan and lets the fan feeding the rad pull cooler outside air in. The plate on the Radbox closest to the case is just about totally solid, with just some slots for the mount screws to move around in.

[deadlysyn]

The thing I do like about the Radbox is that it deflects the warm air being bvlown out of your case by the back side case fan and lets the fan feeding the rad pull cooler outside air in. The plate on the Radbox closest to the case is just about totally solid, with just some slots for the mount screws to move around in.

This is something about the RadBox that I did not know about. It makes me wonder how much the case temp can affect the temps of a loop. I don't doubt at all that the warm air being pushed out the back of the case can warm the loop up, but it does make me curious to find out how much.