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View Full Version : Easier unlocking method


Chakrum
01-31-02, 10:50 AM
Don't know if anybody's here has seen or heard of this yet, so I thought I'd post a link for it. It was news to me :D

http://www.amdmb.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=97442

Now if I could just find a place that has these pads....

Christoph
01-31-02, 10:59 AM
I hadn't seen that method before. Thanks.
BTW, one of the last posts mentioned that you can get them at any cell phone repair shop for about 50¢ a piece.

Chakrum
01-31-02, 11:01 AM
I saw that, but so far I'm not having any luck finding a shop that has them(or is willing to sell them :mad: )

Hugovsky
01-31-02, 11:48 AM
going to try this on a xp's friend tonight. i work in a cell phone store. Never thought about that... is so easy. i'll post the results in this thread tomorrow

MrRobOtto
01-31-02, 02:30 PM
Nice post! I'm still not sure what method I'm going to use to unlock my XP. I'm intrigued by the one poster who said he unlocked his chip using only the rearwindow defroster repair kit though. I'm afraid I don't understand enough about how you should bridge the L1 to get this to work. It just looks to me like they are laying a conductive layer all the way across the pins. Maybe if you covered up the pins not in use it would work?

:eh?:

edit: SP

Hugovsky
02-01-02, 06:18 AM
You have to connect the bridges that are cut. No update yet in if it works or not because i had no time to try it. Tonight i'll try it.

Hoot
02-01-02, 08:19 AM
That's a great idea, but having used these to repair LCD displays, they depend a lot upon pressure holding them down upon what they are contacting. I have a hard time imagining a piece of tape providing that pressure reliably over time.

Hoot

Chakrum
02-01-02, 02:06 PM
If I read it right, the idea of the tape was not to hold it down, but to hold it into place until the heatsink was put into place. I think the idea is to cut it to the same size as the rubber feet that are already on the chip, so that the sink puts pressure on the pad.

Hoot
02-02-02, 09:58 AM
Okay, that makes more sense now.

Hoot

killem1x1
02-02-02, 04:00 PM
I have an old cell phone here, If I take it apart will I find this material, and if so, where will it be in the phone? Under the keypad?

Ozzman
02-02-02, 04:17 PM
but wont the HS put more pressure on the bottom now??

killem1x1
02-02-02, 04:20 PM
OK, I just scrapped the phone. The only thing I could find even resembling this stuff was a very small strip, at the top of the LED display. Anyone know how I can be sure I've got the right stuff here?

killem1x1
02-02-02, 04:31 PM
I marked in the pic what I got out of the phone. Any suggestions please?

I guess the worst thing that can happen is that I short the L1's. Now will that fry my beauty, or will it simply not work?

killem1x1
02-02-02, 04:51 PM
bump for some ideas or suggestions please!

stompah
02-02-02, 05:28 PM
I have spare parts laying around too. I imagine if the pad is to short just use some sort of backing.

stompah
02-02-02, 05:35 PM
Killem1x1 get on AIM...


The conductive pad doesnt have to be as high as the foam rubber pads but just a little higher than the CPU's core.

Hoot
02-02-02, 05:37 PM
What you have is one form of conductive strip. The variable in the equation is how many conductive paths are there? You will need enough of them side-by-side to make sure at least one closes the bridge for each of the 5 L1 bridges. If they are spaced too far apart from one another, you might miss some of the bridges. as far as causing too much pressure to be applied to a specific part of the CPU, you have to use some common sense there and not cut the strip too tall, so as to compete with the four cushion pads on the foru corners of your CPU. Ideally, it seems you would want the strip just as tall as the top of the CPU core. They do not need a lot of pressure to work, but they do need some. That's the gist I got from reading the article. I have not tried this approach. I have only read about it. It does make sense though.

Hoot

killem1x1
02-02-02, 05:53 PM
I'm on my way back to AIM, but a quick update:
I grabbed my trusty fluke, and I can't find closure anywhere in this pad. I stuck the leads in on both sides just to be sure, and in several places, but nodda on my meter, I'll try again though.

I metered all over every side, everywhere, and never could get closure.

stompah
02-02-02, 05:59 PM
It didnt work for me. I may have to cut the pad from that corner to make sure it isnt competing for pressure with the conductive pad.


Note: my pad came from a use LCD and it was a little deformed. Maybe a night between some book pages will help to flatten it out.




But now I have to go to work.

killem1x1
02-02-02, 09:00 PM
could anyone that has done this succesfully tell me
1
How long to let the nailpolish dry before removing the tape
2
did you tape off each bridge while using the defogger, or just freehand?

killem1x1
02-02-02, 09:59 PM
I did it!!!
I've gotta go spend some time with my family, I'll give evryone the details in the morning! ;)

ALL multipliers

Cowboy X
02-02-02, 10:22 PM
This is a very interesting thread . i've a few questions :


1/ Can I therfore use thec conductive pads found below the keys of many cheap calcuators.

2/ these strips i think also exist in watches...... could I use these?
unfotunately I just threw out a bagfull of old watchges and lcd parts :(

killem1x1
02-03-02, 11:31 AM
As I stated earlier in this thread, I did get mine unlocked last night, and it ran fine for hours, but then this (http://forums.overclockers.ws/vb/showthread.php?threadid=63606) happened. Now I'm not sure if it is because I did something wrong during the unlocking, or if things heated up and caused the problem.
If anyone else has any experiences/ideas, please let me know.