Parts, what u think?

Tell me what you think. I plan to add a second rad and block for my "future" nvidia series card when it comes out. All of this is applying to the specs in my comment (minus VC) in an antec 1200.

I dont thin ka triple rad can handle gt300 seris + an O.C i7 if u O.C

Buy Swiftech XT / Heatkiller 3.0
Buy Res/Pump combo

I think you can put a triple rad internaly in aN antec 1200

waterblock - I have no idea about that one. Personally I would go with an Apogee XT or Heatkiller 3.0 and save some coin. Both are known high performance blocks on i7.

pump - good choice. But I would go with either the XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25in Reservoir for Laing DDC or the XSPC Acrylic Reservoir for Laing DDC instead of that EK res, since they both combine a high performance fluid end for that DDC pump and also accept either 3/8" or 1/2" barbs. The stock pump doesn't have replaceable barbs and they are 3/8". And going this route will neaten up the inside of your case. I have the second one I linked (the res top) and it's really good and it's easy to bleed and fill.

radiator - Good choice. Price performance leader.

tubing - No experience with the Feser tubing. But I have used the PrimoFlex Pro LRT White Tubing and it's great stuff. But it isn't UV sensitive.

Radbox - The new Rev 2 radbox is made of plastic and is fragile. The older original model was made of steel and much sturdier. Unfortunately they don't make the steel model any more and PTS is sold out on them too. You might want to see if you can get some aluminum stock and just make yourself some standoffs instead. If you do go with the radbox, make a couple of standoffs for the end of the rad furthest away from the radbox to keep from stressing it in case you bump the rad or something. My plastic rev 2 radbox is in a drawer because it's so fragile.

Points to think about: Barbs, you will need them. You can go regular barbs such as the Bitspower/Fatboys or you can go compression fittings. If you go compression fittings, be sure to get the correct ones for the diameter and thickness of your tubing.

kk well i will get that resev and a different water block 4 cpu also i am adding a second radiator when the card comes.


So does the mpc335 work with the the laing arcylic?

Might want to consider adding another loop when you get the card.

I was planning on adding a second radiator n stuff when the card comes and we truly see how hot it runs. Am i correct that the MPC335 works with the laing arcylic top yes?

The DDC3.2 aka the MCP355 works very well with this restop.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/xsacreforlad.html

It actually icrease the pump output quite a bit when you look at the charts provided in the link.

I believe this is the one Mud meant. I have two pumps set up like this, very very nice setup.

Big review on 10 DDC3.2 tops here. Great page to bookmark.
http://www.skinneelabs.com/

nothing else to add from whats been said already.

Ohh you see the New rads with the pumps built in from Swiftech? Very nice! Makes for a very clean setup. They cost more than the total of the seperate parts, but very nice stuff.

Also it had been awhile since I have done a loop. What order do you suggest?
Pump/Rez to rez f to CPU then back?

ALWAYS res to pump, the rest doesn't matter much. The water temp diff anywhere in a loop is only 1-3 C diff anywhere.

Generally you won't need a chipset cooler unless you lived in Death Vally and have no A/C to cool things, or are going to run your PC in extreme overclocked (ie double the stock CPU frequency), air is generally good enough for chipset. Same with RAM.

One more question, whats a good technique or way people have been mounting a 120.3 rad in the front of the case? I haven't found anything specific after doing some hunting.

nicayotte said:

One more question, whats a good technique or way people have been mounting a 120.3 rad in the front of the case? I haven't found anything specific after doing some hunting.

Click to expand...

You can use small "L" bracket and screws to hold it up.

Example