Water Cooling Advise

[joescastle]

Hello All!!,

I am new to water cooling and have been thinking about it for a very long time. I am ready to take the dive and try it out, so I have done some research and came up with some parts that I like from Swiftech. Looking at my sig what would you do. Here is what I have found so far....

CPU - Apogee GTZ or XT (Which is best)
VGA - Epsilon HD5970 AC
Chipset - MCW-NBMAX
Pump - MCP655 w/spd controller

I know there are a few other things that are needed and that is were I need help. Like hoses, clamps, fittings and most of all res, fluid and maybe a chiller. Thank You All in Advanced that can help....

\\joecastle

[Gotts]

I think for people to give advise, they are going to need to know how much you are willing to spend. Be realistic! I thought I set aside more than enough for a cooling system and wound up spending twice as I originally alotted.

[Conumdrum]

Pretty solid start. You'll need a radiator, guess what you called a chiller.

Swiftech makes some nice rads. They also have one with a built in pump and resiviuor.
Look at the top of this forum for a nice sticky.

Take a look at this link I wrote, it has many good guides etc.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

There are more than a few links in there that I'm sure you will be bookmarking, hint.

You got to have a good idea of the heatload your planning to have to cool. So some research and understanding is gonna be required.

[The_Jizzler]

xt > gtz

youll need a rad! triple 120 fan sized one for all that. personally, i refuse to buy gpu blocks that only fit one kind/generation of card. the cost is just too high for me. try things without the gpu first and see how you get on with it. can always add later.

some tygon tubing, distilled water, and a splash of red radiator fluid for color/corrosion inhibitor in case of mixed metals in the system is my combo of choice.

[Spawn-Inc]

that chipset block only works for a few asus boards, so make sure you have the right one.

otherwise looks like a good build, the apogee XT is better then the Apogee GTZ.

some guides for further help.

http://overclockerstech.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=75:water-cooling-guide-for-beginners&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=88

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide- though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631501

[joescastle]

WOW!! Thank You all for your quick reply!!

Gotts,

I am one of those type of people that wont settle for less. I have always stuck to cheaper is not really cheaper because it can cost you twice if not more than what you originally paid so I much rather by the quality even if it means buying 1 or 2 items at a time until I have what I want...

Conumdrum,

Very nice link. Very knowledgeable advice and I appreciate you sharing your knowledge. Yes, I did mean something that would be to cool the fluid that will run in my loop and your link has given me a lot of details. I have posted a link of my case that I will be using at the end of this thread and lol I would need to know how I would bookmark that link if it gives you any credit I will most deffinately be more than gratefull in doing so. The sticky in this forum also has given me a lot of detail as well and also makes it a bit confusing to what product I whant to purchase so I would ask which rad would be the absolute best for cooling and flow rate...

The_Jizzler,

I do plan on upgrading my bfg8800gtx later on so I will probably wait unless I plan on OC'ing it further which I have not done as of yet but thank you for your knowledge as well. I will be looking for the "ABSOLUTE BEST" tubing and fluids that will help in all aspects of my loop. I have been doing a liitle research and found a very long thread of someone who used different mixures and caused some very ugly gunk build up in his loop so I would not settle for anything cheap when it comes to this part of the build.

Spwawn-Inc,

I have an ASUS P5E. How would I know what chipset block to use for that board? I will be getting that apogee XT and thank you as well for sharing the links and your knowledge...


This is my case
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ImageGallery.aspx?CurImage=11-146-054-TS&ISList=11-146-054-013%2c11-146-054-S02%2c11-146-054-S03%2c11-146-054-S04%2c11-146-054-S05%2c11-146-054-S06%2c11-146-054-S07%2c11-146-054-S08%2c11-146-054-S09%2c11-146-054-S10%2c11-146-054-S11%2c11-146-054-S12&S7ImageFlag=1&Item=N82E16811146054&Depa=0&WaterMark=1&Description=NZXT%20ZERO%202%20Crafted%20Series%20C S-NT-ZERO-2%20Black%20Steel%20%2f%20Plastic%20ATX%20Full%20T ower%20Computer%20Case

[Conumdrum]

Give it some time. Read lots of threads here and other places. Look through all what the stores offer. Read on rad types and test at skinnees. Tubing and fittings will fall into place.

Took me 3 months before I bought a part, probably 2 months before I even began to build a parts list.

Looks like your rad will be on the outside hanging out back.

Bookmarking does nothing for me, but having it bookmarked for your use and to help others by you in the future is what matters. What it gives you is a source for many different links and some thoughts I came up with as I wrote it. It's there for everyone to use, thats all.

[Spawn-Inc]

i don't see how it would fit unless the heatsink can be removed from just the nb chipset.

[joescastle]

i don't see how it would fit unless the heatsink can be removed from just the nb chipset.

Yes it can be removed. There are 3 fillip screws that hold it in place and it is rectangular in size. Looks like it would fit unless the heat pipe that looks like it runs underneath it is in the way...

[Juggalo23451]

standard set up
1/2 inch barbs for everything

mcp655 pump or mcp355
http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP...r-pr-3803.html
65.00

tubing
http://www.petrastechshop.com/7id5odmagepu.html
.59 a ft

rad feser performance but not the price
RX360 74.99
http://www.tilatech.com/products/XSPC-RX360-Triple-Radiator.html
or RS360 39.99
http://www.tilatech.com/products/XSPC-RS360-Triple-Radiator.html

fans
http://www.jab-tech.com/YATE-LOON-120mm-Case-Fan-D12SH-12-High-Speed-pr-3771.html
3.70
or
panaflos better choice
http://bestbyte.net/merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=FA12PAM1BX&Category_Code=FA12&Store_Code=BB

fan controller
http://www.xpcgear.com/rheobusext.html
28.99
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811998808
15.00

reservoirs or tline
http://www.crazypc.com/products/watercooling_reservoirs.html
20-xxx

cpu
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708019&cm_re=enzotech_sapphire_rev._a-_-35-708-019-_-Product
best bang for the buck block out there period.

Thermal paste : OCZ Freeze or IC Diamond

Coolant: distilled water and 2 drops of pt nuke

one is for just distilled other is used with U/v dye
http://search.store.yahoo.net/cgi-bin/nsearch?catalog=yhst-65556269779593&.autodone=nsearch.html&x=0&y=0&query=pt%20nuke

Loop should go
res-pump-rad-cpu-res

Comparison of i7 waterblocks using the RS360
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/509875-another-round-waterblocks-i7.html

Rad Comparison
http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/518786-huge-radiators-roundup.html

[Conumdrum]

Umm the RS360 is an older rad and has been way beat by their newer one, the RX360.

The CPU block you listed is pretty good and is the best bang for the $. There is better at more cost.

[Juggalo23451]

Umm the RS360 is an older rad and has been way beat by their newer one, the RX360.

The CPU block you listed is pretty good and is the best bang for the $. There is better at more cost.

That is a given. The RX is thicker and bigger meaning more surface area which interns better heat dissipation. I am giving him options depending on his budget
Also with a better block it may be like a 1-5 degree difference really when comparing to the Sapphire Rev A

[Conumdrum]

Here are some specifics on the RX360. It's not just thicker. It's internals are better and it has less FPI. Much improved over the RS360. The pressure restriction is dropped by over half. At 400 watts of heat using close to the same fans at the same RPM a RS has a DT of 7.5. The RX with close to the same fans has a DT of 6, and thats with lower RPM than the RS test.

So there is more to just thickness on a rad.

RX360 test
http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360.html?page=1

RS360 test
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/XSPC-RS360-Radiator-Review.html

Found a great comparison on the blocks. Yea, it's about 2.5C away from the current top block. For the price it's a good block.
http://skinneelabs.com/i7-blocks-2.html

[Juggalo23451]

Here are some specifics on the RX360. It's not just thicker. It's internals are better and it has less FPI. Much improved over the RS360. The pressure restriction is dropped by over half. At 400 watts of heat using close to the same fans at the same RPM a RS has a DT of 7.5. The RX with the same fans has a DT of 6, and thats with lower RPM than the RS test.

So there is more to just thickness on a rad.

RX360 test
http://skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360.html?page=1

RS360 test
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/XSPC-RS360-Radiator-Review.html
Already know that. I am the watercooling editor on Overclock.net

[Conumdrum]

Ohhh. I used to go there.

[joescastle]

I just remebered I have an old Lian Li case that I used for about a day on one of my builds and decided to use another case. Here it is http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112074 I think this one would be better for my loop build.

Juggalo,

I thank you for the advise as I thank all who share there knowledge and expertise. I am really only interested in the best quality and what is going to be the best water cooling solution for my loop. I have decided to stick with what I have listed above (Apogee XT, Epsilon HD5970 AC, Chipset - MCW-NBMAX ( if it is the right one for my board), MCP655 w/spd controller) which to me swiftech has the better blocks out there I think IMPO. So I need to start thinking of what RAD, RES Tubing and fittings I want to get, again, what is the best RAD out there that will work for the above case and most of all "best cooling" as well as the rest of the puzzle....

Thanks

\\joescastle

[deadlysyn]

For tubing, I recommend Primochill Pro LRT. It's about $2 a foot from Jab-Tech (http://www.jab-tech.com), but it is very well worth the price. The bending radius is amazing.

[muddocktor]

Yes, I will second the Primochill LRT tubing. I love the stuff and it's easy to work with. And seems to hold up well over time too.

[joescastle]

My build so far will be,

CASE - LianLi (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811112074)
CPU - Apogee XT (http://www.swiftnets.com/)
VGA - Epsilon HD5970 AC (http://www.swiftnets.com/)
Chipset - MCW-NBMAX (http://www.swiftnets.com/)
Pump - MCP655 w/spd controller (http://www.swiftnets.com/)
XSPC RAD - RX480 Quad (http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9391/ex-rad-160/XSPC_RX480_Quad_120mm_Radiator.html)
Tubing - PromoFlex Pro (http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Tube-c-319.html) Have not decided what color..

What size Tubing, fittings am I going to need? Are there fittings that have led lighting? I have seen many pics in this forum and in others with tubing that have and do not have clamps to hold them in place. Which no clamps look aesthetically better. What are your thoughts? Once I have my entire list made up, then I will start to purchase in pieces...

Thanks

\\joescastle

[Conumdrum]

Please run clamps. Some don't, very very few. Since it's your first you will have enough minor issues, don't need a big one like water dripping on the Mobo and breaking something.

Like these.
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/brmihocl7int1.html

[boucher91]

what happened with the nzxt zero Joe?
did it not work for you?

[Spawn-Inc]

you going to want more rad then that, i would at least step up to the XSPC RX480.

and go with clamps, not worth risking your rig.

[johan851]

you going to want more rad then that, i would at least step up to the XSPC RX480.
Really? I would think a triple would be plenty. Does the Q9450 put out that much heat?

[boucher91]

3 BIG heaters = bigger or more raddage...
i think the cpu alone should need a 220-360
then the video card a 360
not to mention chipset block but that can be joined in with either or...

[Conumdrum]

Really? I would think a triple would be plenty. Does the Q9450 put out that much heat?

No, I think we're getting Spawn Overrad Syndrome here, somewhat.

The Q9450 needs a 120.2 rad by basic calculations. For a 120x2 rad I like using this test. Add 10% more cooling if you use a rad like a PA120.2, XSPC RX etc etc.
Here is my source
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/SwiftechMCR220-Review.html

I'll say his Q9450 puts out about 175 watts of heat under load. Looking at the charts, for a GOOD 5C delta using 2000 RPM fans, you can cool 186 watts. So, using a XSPC RX 120x2 rad, he has More than enough raddage. Some accept the fact that if the chip uses 175 watts, about 15-20% isn't lost as heat, which reduces the heatload more. AND the basis I set of 175 watts is only during load tests.

So actually lets drop it to 140 watts for everyday cooling.?

Meaning a 120x2 has some room to spare

Lets talk about the GPU. WOW it's a monster. Easily 450 watts of power needing removed.

Looks like I need to move to a bigger rad for the next part, MCR320, 2000 RPM fans again. 2000 RPM speed is acceptable to many of us for max speed when playing a game, agree?


This is where it gets complicated. A 5C DT is great for a CPU. We should try to strive for it. But a GPU loop is wayy happy with even a 15C DT. So what to do? I'll use the 10C DT chart and call it a wash, it's close enough for 'guverment work'.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/SwiftechMCR320-Review.html

Plenty of room for 450 watts at 10C DT and 2000 RPM fans.

Lets look at a Feser 480ER, a solid 120x4 low FPI rad at a 10C DT, which is good temps, enuff for a normal usage PC.
http://martin.skinneelabs.com/The-Feser-Company-X-Changer-480-Review.html

It can cool 866 WATTS!!!!!!!

So the OP doesn't need a massive rad. He has about 600 watts to cool under load in normal gaming usage. Probably less.

A good modern 120x3 low FPI rad with 2000 RPM fans on max loads fan controlled down to 1500 or less in normal usage is enough.
This test shows this rad can cool 625 watts with the fans shown in the test.

http://www.skinneelabs.com/xspc-rx360.html?page=4

So ANY low FPI QUALITY 120x3 rad is enuff for the OP.

His temps could be more like Spawns, or me, we both overrad. If the OP wants really quiet and low speed fans, two 120x2 rads or a 120x4. But really a 120x3 is all he needs. Or if the OP plans to overclock, then a total of 120x4 rad.

Thanks to Martin and Skinnee for making this easy.

[johan851]

^ That's the way I would calculate it, too. I think you'd have, at most, about 5C to gain from going from 3x120mm to 6x120mm. It's probably not worth it.

[Spawn-Inc]

sorry, i was thinking this was an i7 build, though i would still opt for a quad. but that's me. you should be fine with a good triple with proper fannage.

[Conumdrum]

Me too Spawn, then I looked deeper. Had fun with the numbers.

[joescastle]

what happened with the nzxt zero Joe?
did it not work for you?

Nothing really. I just think that the LianLi case has more space...

[joescastle]

I do plan on overclocking and also upgrading later to an i7 board and cpu so I changed to the XSPC RX480 Quad. Thanks for the charts Conumdrum. They are very helpful... My NZXT case currently has 7 of These (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209011) in it now running all at 2000 rpm's so I will be using 4 for the RX480. I think all I need now are the fittings, tube size, distilled water and nuke. So, what size tubing (1/4, 1/2, 7/16) and fittings should I get?

[Conumdrum]

Most of us run 1/2" OD barbs. 1/2" ID x 3/4" OD hose with hose clamps, or thats what I suggest. Have you been following all the other posts that are going on here? It's being covered almost daily. Give those a read and I think you'll easily find your answer.

[joescastle]

WOOT!!

I took the plunge and started my purchasing process. I ordered the XT (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Apogee-XT-Extreme-Performance-CPU-waterblock-pr-4568.html), MCP 655 (https://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCP655-12-VDC-Pump-pr-2982.html) and PrimoFlex Pro White (https://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoFlex-Pro-LRT-White-Tubing-1-2in.-ID-X-3-4in.-OD-pr-4503.html) so far from jabtech.

It does not look like the MCP 655 barbs can be replaced. I would have liked to replaced the front cover to a clear housing and replace the plastic barbs with metal barbs instead, but if not, then it is ok. Next week I will purchase Rad and chipset block...

At jabtech, when ordering the Apogge XT. At the bottom in red colored font it says this "We are shipping the revised Gigabyte Friendly version of the Apogee XT". Is there a difference or a different XT version?

[Grosjambon]

no u can't its made with the pump (as a one piece) but it wont leak with clamps :)

[joescastle]

What do you all think about this RES (https://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCRES-Micro-Rev-2-pr-4312.html) using these BARBS (https://www.jab-tech.com/Dangerden-FB-Fat-Boy-G-1-4-Fittings-1-2-Barb-pr-4181.html) for res and RAD (https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RX-480-Quad-120mm-Radiator-pr-4430.html)

[boucher91]

on the res (its plastic) careful tightening. you may need to swap o-rings...
btw whatever become of the nzxt?

[joescastle]

on the res (its plastic) careful tightening. you may need to swap o-rings...
btw whatever become of the nzxt?

Swap o-rings? You mean using the o-rings that the res brings?

I still have the NZXT case. It is one of my builds. I have 4 pc's My 1st build that was an old 478 socket that I upgraded to 775 I gave to my wife and the 2nd for my daughter and 2 that I have. The LianLi case I never used and is sitting the the box. I had started a build in it until I saw the NZXT so I put it away. I am still considering on using the NZXT instead of the LianLi. Not sure yet....

[deadlysyn]

no u can't its made with the pump (as a one piece) but it wont leak with clamps :)

Actually, this information is incorrect. There are a few mod tops out there for the MCP655 (rebadged Laing D5). There is one made by Bitspower, which would allow you to use G1/4" fittings. I will see if I can dig up a link.

Edit: Here's a link: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/bid5modtop.html

There is a ring that holds the pump head to the motor of the pump. When this ring is removed, you can clean out the impeller and the coolant passages. Within the next day or two, I will see if I can find my camera and take some pics of mine taken apart.

Edit again:screwy:: That mod top also has a couple of extra ports so you can set up front inlet/front outlet, top inlet/bottom outlet, top inlet/front outlet, or any combination you prefer. With the right orientation, you could probably even get away with dual inlet and dual outlet to drive 2 loops. I don't know how well it would do that way as far as flow rates and pressure, but I wouldn't expect it to be phenomenal. That particular part is said to increase flow rates and pressure, but I don't have any numbers on how much. I have had a hard time finding reviews of the part, but I do suspect it is actually better than stock.

[Grosjambon]

http://i627.photobucket.com/albums/tt353/Grosjambon/P1000095.jpg

[donuts]

http://www.skinneelabs.com/d5-tops.html
I didn't look for availability.

[Conumdrum]

Some D5 tops here.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/pumps.html
http://www.jab-tech.com/Primochill-Typhoon-III-Reservoir-System-PEC-pr-4497.html
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=59_439

[Conumdrum]

What do you all think about this RES (https://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCRES-Micro-Rev-2-pr-4312.html) using these BARBS (https://www.jab-tech.com/Dangerden-FB-Fat-Boy-G-1-4-Fittings-1-2-Barb-pr-4181.html) for res and RAD (https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RX-480-Quad-120mm-Radiator-pr-4430.html)

All 3 good parts. The res comes with plastic cheap barbs. Take the o-rings off the barbs and put them on the bitspower barbs and use them for the res. It is better. Gabe needs to redo the seating for aftermarket barbs on that res, but the o-ring from the cheap barbs fixes the problem..

[deadlysyn]

I was able to fit a compression fitting and a 45 with a compression fitting on the side ports of my MCRES, with the Bitspower o-rings. It seals up just fine. The ports on the res are recessed a little bit, enough to be felt with my finger, but the o-rings seal up fine.

As far as the pump replacement tops, I really like the Bitspower one at Sidewinders, which didn't seem to be in Skinnee's review. I could be wrong and just didn't read thoroughly enough, but the last time I read that review, I was pretty pressed for time. One of these days I am going to order it just so that I can use my compression fittings on the pump as well as the rad and res. I have Bitspower True Silver fittings for my blocks, which will help keep the nasties out of my loop. If I notice a problem, I will probably buy a silver strip from JT and make a kill coil or two.

[Spawn-Inc]

What do you all think about this RES (https://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCRES-Micro-Rev-2-pr-4312.html) using these BARBS (https://www.jab-tech.com/Dangerden-FB-Fat-Boy-G-1-4-Fittings-1-2-Barb-pr-4181.html) for res and RAD (https://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RX-480-Quad-120mm-Radiator-pr-4430.html)

excellent choices, i run those barbs on my rads, and use that res. i run swiftech barbs on it though as i didn't order enough fat boys.

[Conumdrum]

I was able to fit a compression fitting and a 45 with a compression fitting on the side ports of my MCRES, with the Bitspower o-rings. It seals up just fine. The ports on the res are recessed a little bit, enough to be felt with my finger, but the o-rings seal up fine.

As far as the pump replacement tops, I really like the Bitspower one at Sidewinders, which didn't seem to be in Skinnee's review. I could be wrong and just didn't read thoroughly enough, but the last time I read that review, I was pretty pressed for time. One of these days I am going to order it just so that I can use my compression fittings on the pump as well as the rad and res. I have Bitspower True Silver fittings for my blocks, which will help keep the nasties out of my loop. If I notice a problem, I will probably buy a silver strip from JT and make a kill coil or two.

The BP 45's are skinny enuff at the knurled end to slip inside the recess? But a regular barb is fatter. using the fatter o-rings on the plastic barbs fix the problem.

Good to know for future ref the BP rotaries fit.

[deadlysyn]

The BP 45's are skinny enuff at the knurled end to slip inside the recess? But a regular barb is fatter. using the fatter o-rings on the plastic barbs fix the problem.

Good to know for future ref the BP rotaries fit.

They did on the side ports, which are nearly flat. There's maybe 1/64" recess on those (just a wild guess, but its not enough to break the seal), it's the top and bottom ones I would be worried about. They are recessed quite a ways, enough that a stop fitting sits inside. I would think a BP rotary may fit, but can't be too sure, and I haven't tried it yet. My parts are still sitting in boxes next to my rig, but I did check the seal when I tried to clean the previous owners dye out of the res. I don't see much reason they wouldn't fit. Doesn't Swiftech make a barb that is supposed to fit in those recesses? When I have a chance, I will post up a pic of the res with the compression and rotary on it. Just be warned, I wasn't able to get all the dye out, so the res still has a bit of a pink tint to it.:rain:

[joescastle]

AWESOME!!

All of you are great!! TrOmendous information FROM ALL!! LOL.. I am sitting with an ich on the bottom of my pants awaiting parts arrival.. All though I still have to order additional parts to complete my loop build, and that wont take place until next week (Grrr!)....

[joescastle]

Ok,

I am ready to order my next purchase. I want to know what to run as far as liquids go. I am going to want to have a UV blue color to it, so I want to mix things just right... (Antimicrobial silver strip, Dtech dye,fesser corrosion blocker, fesser view dye, Pentocin coolant, Primochill liquid Utopia) There are a lot to choose from but I want to make the correct choice. It's like filling 10w40 regular oil to a new Mercedes Benz that uses Mobile 1 full synthetic. It does'nt work. It will breakdown and sludge the engine and your done....

Thanks

\\joescastle

[deadlysyn]

Dye's are bad juju. They tend to break down in the loop, and clog your blocks and rad. For UV, I would recommend looking for some UV reactive tubing, and one of the Bitspower LED stop fittings for your res. As long as you aren't running mixed metals, you are much better off with straight distilled, some PT-Nuke, or a Silver Kill Coil, or True Silver Fittings.

[Spawn-Inc]

It will breakdown and sludge the engine and your done....


as you have already said, thats why we don't use dye's anymore.

buy coloured tubing over dye's and the like.

distilled water and a biocide like pt nuke or a silver strip are best. it's the royal purple of the car world (i assume royal purple oil is still the best?)

[joescastle]

WOOT!!

I just recieved pump, XT and tubing. I will not use dye in the system so I already added the silver strip coil to my shopping cart at JabTech. My MB is an Asus P5E and the NB is an X38. I believe that the MCW-NBMAX (http://www.linkecomputer.com/products/1001955/MCW-NBMAX/Swiftech/) will fit it just fine, but I am not sure. Also, the site I provided seems to be the only one that has it in stock. Has anyone purchased from there before?

[boucher91]

@spawn
The purple nurple that goes waaaay back lol....
Valvoline full synthetic user here...little cheaper same quality..
@joe
Swiftech ,s site gives all the dimentions for the block measure and make sure..
i have no clue bout the site you linked....

[deadlysyn]

WOOT!!

I just recieved pump, XT and tubing. I will not use dye in the system so I already added the silver strip coil to my shopping cart at JabTech. My MB is an Asus P5E and the NB is an X38. I believe that the MCW-NBMAX (http://www.linkecomputer.com/products/1001955/MCW-NBMAX/Swiftech/) will fit it just fine, but I am not sure. Also, the site I provided seems to be the only one that has it in stock. Has anyone purchased from there before?

Reseller Ratings (http://www.resellerratings.com), the online shoppers best friend.

Edit: I also wanted to mention, that you don't really need to put the NB under water. Most of us just make sure there is plenty of air going over the sink, and you should be fine.

[joescastle]

Thanks for the info bouch & dead.

I have the following on the way and will be here Thursday 4th. RX 480 (http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RX-480-Quad-120mm-Radiator-pr-4430.html), Fat Boys (http://www.jab-tech.com/Dangerden-FB-Fat-Boy-G-1-4-Fittings-1-2-Barb-pr-4181.html), Anti-Kink (http://www.jab-tech.com/PrimoChill-Anti-Kink-Coils-1-2-UV-Blue-pr-3986.html), MCRES (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCRES-Micro-Rev-2-pr-4312.html) and Silver Strip (http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html).... I feel a build coming on this weekend...

Is there anything else I need before I start the build? Also, How do I set up the loop? Meaning - res-pump-cpu-res?

Thanks again

\\joescastle

[Grosjambon]

res pump radiator cpu res

[Spawn-Inc]

res pump radiator cpu res

yup.

also check out http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631501 - though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.

[joescastle]

res pump radiator cpu res

Thanks Gros...

If I add a VGA block to my BFG 8800gtx in what order would I do the loop and also what VGA block should I use? I was thinking the Epsilon (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Epsilon-Full-Cover-VGA-waterblock-for-GTX295-pr-4511.html) but it seems to be out of stock...

[deadlysyn]

Thanks Gros...

If I add a VGA block to my BFG 8800gtx in what order would I do the loop and also what VGA block should I use? I was thinking the Epsilon (http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-Epsilon-Full-Cover-VGA-waterblock-for-GTX295-pr-4511.html) but it seems to be out of stock...

In that case, the typical loop goes res>pump>rad>CPU>GPU>res. As for which block, the MCW60 seems to perform well, and has a very nice price tag. I think Jab-Tech has it for around $35.

Edit: http://www.jab-tech.com/Swiftech-MCW60-R-VGA-cooler-Rev-2-pr-4271.html $39.95. The Epsilon doesn't look like it will fit that 8800GTX, since it is made for the GTX2xx. I would highly recommend the MCW60.

[johan851]

In that case, the typical loop goes res>pump>rad>CPU>GPU>res. As for which block, the MCW60 seems to perform well, and has a very nice price tag. I think Jab-Tech has it for around $35.
Generally the most effective loop layout is whatever is simplest. The temperature of the water doesn't change too much throughout the loop as long as it's moving fast. You'll see the same temps (and less headaches) from the simplest routing than some tangled mass that tries to get water to one place or another "first".

[Conumdrum]

^+1 yep, just build it for tubing layout.

[Cant.Touch.This]

Don't mean to barge into the OP's thread with my newbie question, but I don't quite understand why the loop order is res-pump-rad-cpu-res and not res-pump-cpu-rad-res? Doesn't the water have to take the heat from the cpu to the radiator first?

[Conumdrum]

Don't mean to barge into the OP's thread with my newbie question, but I don't quite understand why the loop order is res-pump-rad-cpu-res and not res-pump-cpu-rad-res? Doesn't the water have to take the heat from the cpu to the radiator first?

Drop back and read 100-300 posts. Or watercool for a few years. It will become clear.

The water temp diff after temp stabilization is only 1-2C diff anywhere in the loop. Give me a nickle each time I have posted that, I would be up $20 easy.

[The_Jizzler]

Generally the most effective loop layout is whatever is simplest. The temperature of the water doesn't change too much throughout the loop as long as it's moving fast. You'll see the same temps (and less headaches) from the simplest routing than some tangled mass that tries to get water to one place or another "first".


what he said, layout really doesnt matter

[Cant.Touch.This]

Drop back and read 100-300 posts. Or watercool for a few years. It will become clear.

The water temp diff after temp stabilization is only 1-2C diff anywhere in the loop. Give me a nickle each time I have posted that, I would be up $20 easy.

So you're saying it can be cpu-rad as well and loop order doesn't matter (at least in this case of a cpu loop)?

what he said, layout really doesnt matter

I see.. so if it takes a longer amount of tubing to achieve the said res-pump-rad-cpu-res order best to change it as needed?

I did read up more on it, it seems the general rule is that the res must come before the pump at least.

[BobbyBubblehead]

yes `n yes

theres a logical layout and then what lends itself to the physical situation.

unless your flow rate is crippled somehow, it moves too fast to pick up much heat. And if you think about it can only loose heat somewhere cooler, so as you stated res first then pump. cpu l(less heat capable operation) and GPU (runs hotter and more capable of handling heat)

I can loose 10`c output on my cpu if I get the values between cpu/nb & ram right in comparison.

one or two degrees is a threshold you carnt tune for... you may get up the next day and it be 2`c hotter and your gpu starts artifacting where as at three in the morning the night before it was fine.

[Cant.Touch.This]

Alright, thanks guys for answering my question I will continue my march into unknown territory and read up on this. I suppose I'll PM you guys if I have further questions.

[joescastle]

Ok.... I have already started to mod the case and work a layout for my loop. The rad will sit at top of the case as you can see in the 1st pic the dangling screws at top. They are #6 32 3 1/4" screws (they were longer but cut down to size) with 2" tension pins that will support the rads weight.

The 3rd pic shows the 2 holes that I drilled with a unibit were the tubes will run from the rad down into the case.


http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05395.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05397.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05396.jpg

Here is a pic of the rad with the fans that I am going to use. I want to know if I am able to cut and connect each of the fans wiring together to make one connection? If so, would the connector be replaced with the standard 4 pin molex connector and to what # pins should it be connected to.....

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05403.jpg

Thanks

\\joescastle

[hokiealumnus]

You can wire them together, sure. Unless you plan on plugging them into your PSU, there isn't really a need to use a MOLEX connector. However, if you want to use a fan controller, be sure the combined wattage doesn't exceed what one channel can do. Amps x Volts = Watts, so look on the back of the fans for their amperage rating, add it up and multiply it by 12. If that exceeds your controller's wattage rating, don't combine all of them.

Anyway, to answer your question directly, the yellow wire on the MOLEX plug to the red fan wire and one of the black wires on the MOLEX to the black wire on the fan.

[joescastle]

You can wire them together, sure. Unless you plan on plugging them into your PSU, there isn't really a need to use a MOLEX connector.

Each fan operating at 2000rpms has an input power of 2.88w x 4 = 11.52w. I do not plan on a fan controller at the moment so, I can only see a connection to the PSU using a molex. Unless there is something better I can do/use? These fans each have a switch on them (see above pics of fans with the little white box, is a switch) that you can set to L M H (Low 1200rpm - Medium 1600rpm - High 2000rpm). Would wiring them together hinder the control switch?

[Spawn-Inc]

Each fan operating at 2000rpms has an input power of 2.88w x 4 = 11.52w. I do not plan on a fan controller at the moment so, I can only see a connection to the PSU using a molex. Unless there is something better I can do/use? These fans each have a switch on them (see above pics of fans with the little white box, is a switch) that you can set to L M H (Low 1200rpm - Medium 1600rpm - High 2000rpm). Would wiring them together hinder the control switch?

no, the switches will still work as the main leads provide 12v. if you spliced them together after the switch wiring then it would not work anymore.

i have a feeling that the fans use molex plugs, but if they don't then you can use this and it will join them without cutting or soldering.



Koolance 3 pin splitter(4 to 1) (http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23440)

Note: that you only need 1 of those rpm sensor wires (the single wire on that 3 pin plug) for all the fans. they motherboard will get messed up signals if you join them. though what i'm looking at might be the switch not a rpm wire.

[joescastle]

Here is a pic of the connector with the wiring exposed.

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05415.jpg

[Conumdrum]

Thats a mini molex.

You can connect ALL the red wires and ALL the black wires together. In your case, as the pic is shown, Black is the top, red is the middle, yellow is the bottom. Do NOT connect all the yellow wires together. You need only one to supply a RPM signal. You realy don't even need a RPM wire, thats up to you. Some fan controllers can monitor fan speeds.

I have two rads with 3 fans each, each one has all the wires connected down to one plug like you show in the pic. You can see it in this link, scroll down a ways till you see the closeup of the rad wiring.

http://www.overclockers.com/annual-water-cooling-cleaning-rebuild-journal/

You need a soldering iron, solder and small heatshrink.

A great tutorial how to get the pins out etc. Worth bookmarking.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=202639

[joescastle]

Awesome... I will work on it when i get the time... Just to get things strait. When I am wiring the fans for example; Fan 1-2, 2-3 I connect only the black and red and when connecting Fan 3-4 I connect all three if I want an RPM signal. Correct?

[Conumdrum]

Nope, just ONE yellow RPM wire from the very last fan. Don't connect it to any other yellows. I cut the other two yellows off at the fan, but yours are already covered by stuff.

The RPM is a pulse. You start mixing pulses the signal is confused and won't be right. Since they are all the same fan, if the last one (where your long pigtail comes off the rad to connect to something) is at 1200 RPM, then the rest of them will be close to that, right?

[marcusmiller360]

(i assume royal purple oil is still the best?)

A bit gimmicky, truth be told most engines aren't well tuned enough to take advantage of it. I've had co-worker and neighbor sink it into their 1996 Camry/Accord/Altima/whatever-else-pedestrian-middleclassmen-drive, and I tell them:

"Listen, you haven't had the transmission fluid changed ever and the oil filter is on mile 20,000. A little trick oil won't make a whole lot of difference."

[joescastle]

Nope, just ONE yellow RPM wire from the very last fan. Don't connect it to any other yellows. I cut the other two yellows off at the fan, but yours are already covered by stuff.

The RPM is a pulse. You start mixing pulses the signal is confused and won't be right. Since they are all the same fan, if the last one (where your long pigtail comes off the rad to connect to something) is at 1200 RPM, then the rest of them will be close to that, right?

Yes, indeed, that is what I meant. I should have said Fan 4 (last fan) connect only yellow to power source.

[twstjrs04]

Just wanted to get a second opinion on my loop. This is my first water-cooled build. Any advice would be appreciated.

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx116/twstjrs04/LiquidFusion_homebase1.jpg

[Conumdrum]

Just wanted to get a second opinion on my loop. This is my first water-cooled build. Any advice would be appreciated.

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/xx116/twstjrs04/LiquidFusion_homebase1.jpg

Looks okay, why threadjack? Make a new thread for just you, it's okay.

Nice drawing ontop of case pic. Nice job.

[Spawn-Inc]

Just wanted to get a second opinion on my loop. This is my first water-cooled build. Any advice would be appreciated.

outside of the threadjack and xflow rad, looks good.

[twstjrs04]

sorry I am new to actually posting in forums. I wasn't aware. I apologize, I'll start a new thread.

[joescastle]

Howdy all,

I have been very busy with work but here is what I have done so far....

I have to order some more copper sinks to cover the rest of them bga. I also have a question on what I should put on that green square on the left. It had thermal paste on it when I removed the air cooler from it...

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05420.jpg

Here is what the case is looking like so far. Don't Worry! I am not going to leave the power connected while I am leak testing. I am just laying out the cabling and such to see how I am going to place tubing.....

[Conumdrum]

It must be cooled. Hopefully a small HS like the ones you have been using is enough.

[Spawn-Inc]

if you ever see any old computer being tossed run to it like a mad man. open it up and rip out any heatsinks as they work perfect for cutting up for cards.

also take the hdd's if they are there, it's amazing what people will leave on them from porn to tax documents... and people wonder how there information is stolen.

[joescastle]

Well the fans are working great!! As soon as I recieve the the remaining HS's I need for the VC I will begin cleaning the RAD and installing the tubing........

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05424.jpg

[joescastle]

Here is the finished rig... I opted to change the barbs to the True silver Bits power offer. They look nice and the silver will help in the distilled water... With that said, I'd like to thank you all for you help. This site is AWESOME and so are the people in it. Special Thanks to; Conumdrum, Spawm-Inc, deadlysyn and Grosjambon....:clap::rock::thup::beer:

http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05425.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05426.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05430.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05432.jpg
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05435.jpg

\\joescastle

[Conumdrum]

Lookin good! And real hoseclamps even! Smart man!

Looks clean, good wire management too.

[joescastle]

Lookin good! And real hoseclamps even! Smart man!

Looks clean, good wire management too.

Thanks Conumdrum,

It looks and works great so far. I still can not reach the 3.2ghz yet for some reason. I guess this cpu does not like it. I am wondering if the VC has something to do with it though. You see the green part here on my video card?

I placed one of those mem ramsinks on it and I can not touch it. It gets so hot you can leave your finger on it...
http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm254/CPViper1/DSC05420.jpg

[Conumdrum]

Hmm get a bigger HS? Still, even 60C for that chip is prolly just fine, thats 140F, getting warm to the touch for sure.

[hokiealumnus]

Looks great! I really like that modded 655.

As far as the video card, that little chipset does get warm. There used to be a larger sink that came with a Thermalright cooler (HR-03 Plus) but I just checked their page and it doesn't seem to be there. The closest I saw was the one that comes with the GTX285/260 kit (http://www.thermalright.com/new_a_page/product_page/accessories_page/product_accessories_ram_sink.html#9800pwn-sink) (scroll to the bottom). Not sure if that fits or not though, sorry.