Swiftech's New waterblock

[fyleow]

What do you guys think about the new Swiftech waterblock? I am currently selling off my old 462 Swiftech for a new one that will support P4 478 socket. Im torn between Swiftech and Dangerden. Both support AMD and 478.

Here is a pic.
.....http://www.swiftnets.com/_borders/Copy_of_MCW462-U.gif
I currently run on a 1/2 tubing but my radiator and my current Swiffy runs at 3/8 so it wont be a problem if i change the tubing. Im not sure how the dangerden with 1/2 ID will fuction. Since the radiator will slow the flow rate.

On the other hand the Dangerden is 58 bucks while Swiftech is 67

[ken257]

You can't go wrong either way. I have 2 blocks from each company. 1 from each for straight water and 1 from each for pelts and I can't make up my mind which I like better. One thing I did with the Swiftech that has a 172w pelt is remove the fittings it came with and replace with standard nipples for 3/8 ID tubing instead of Swiftech's 1/4" ID for more flow. There is no need to get rid of your old Swiftech block for a new one as it is a fine performer. I could be wrong but I think the old block will work on a P4 you just need different standoffs and bolts to mount it.

[fyleow]

Thanks for the reply.

The MCW 462 block can only work for P4 socket 423. It is too big for the 478 socket. I bought the standoffs with the block thinking it would fit but it doesnt.

[The Overclocker]

do you know if it is spiral or maze design?

[fyleow]

Its neither Spiral nor Maze design.

http://www.swiftnets.com/_borders/internal_chamber.gif

http://www.swiftnets.com/_borders/Copy_of_base_plate_inner_side.gif

The base plate is supposed to create "turbulance"

Although none of Swiftech blocks are spiral or maze, just a empty block with water in it (lol) they perform suprisingly well.

[Sonny]

From what Ive read, the new waterblock's fittings can not be replaced by standard barbs so it'll be something to consider before buying. It looks easy enough to build I think:eh?:

[fyleow]

You are right the block is stuck with the built in fittings, so waterflow is stuck at 3/8 OD. They do sell extra adapters to allow for different pipe sizes but those just basically convert say 1/2s to 3/8s. But like i said im not sure if switching to 1/2s will do any good since my radiator and my pump are 3/8s.

Im currently leaning towards Swiftech since I was pretty happy about the block i had before. Has anyone ordered from them before? It says 2 weeks availability for everything and no stores carry the block yet.

Their online store is also not secure, which makes me want to just go ahead with dangerden.

Argh so confused!

[The Overclocker]

i am surprised at swiftech adoptiopting such a basic design. must work then!

[Sonny]

If I were to make something similar to this how thick should I have the base?

[Hoot]

I'd wager that either 1/4" or 5/16" would suffice. 3/8" would probably be overkill.

I can't believe that is all there is to them!

Hoot

[Sonny]

Originally posted by Hoot
I'd wager that either 1/4" or 5/16" would suffice. 3/8" would probably be overkill.

I can't believe that is all there is to them!

Hoot hmm... 6mm-8mm... I only have access to 5mm thick copper plates so instead of drilling the surface I guess I would have to solder some pins or is 5mm just on the thin side of things:confused:

[The Overclocker]

hmm...

if you got hold of the socket 370 waterblock you could use it for direct die cooling, i would be interested to see what happeds and how it performes

[ButcherUK]

5mm is plenty, the DD maze2 works great and that has a 2mm base. A lot of people report better temps with a thinner base in fact, especially with peltiers.

[BillA]

Butcher
double ck those measurements

the issue of relevance (which is as usual being overlooked) is the "watt density"
the heat/unit area

cold plates are similar to wb bps, bps for TECs are rather different

run the numbers

Hoot
Gabe's premise is die area impingment (I call it dai), and I think he may well have the best path
for an old mod with some GOOD results read this thread (http://www.tekforums.co.uk/posts.php?threadId=6913)

be cool

[ButcherUK]

Bill: well yes it is hearsay somewhat, I'd say that for a cpu thicker would be better but people swaer that they get better temps with thinner. For peltiers the area is so much larger that it becomes less of a factor.

[UserName]

Heat flow is inversly proportional to thickness,

or

thin things flow heat better than thick.

[ken257]

I have the old Swiftech block and it has a thinner base then the new model which is great because I use it with a pelt. The thin base is fine because the pelt is producing heat over a 40mm square surface but a cpu is a much smaller heat source so you need the thick base the spread out the heat.

[BladeRunner]

It's also been discussed in this TOPIC (http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2124) and not well recieved by most, me included for various reasons. There is some welcome input into the topic by Swiftech themselves, and until it's properly tested in the field the jury's out.

I still think non replaceable push in fittings was a bad move, (as they could easily have been a screw in type with 1/4 bsp / npt threads in the block. They also require inserts if using vinyal tubing so reducing the 3/8 Od to around 1/4 ID or less.

The other thing is trapped air if the block is used in a level position (desktop mobo position rather than tower)

[fyleow]

I guess ill go with the Swiftech and give them the benefit of the doubt. Ill let you guys know with the results when i get my hands on it.

[Sonny]

Originally posted by ButcherUK
5mm is plenty, the DD maze2 works great and that has a 2mm base.Thanks Man:beer:

[Voodoo Rufus]

That's a nice waterblock. I have the MCW462B, and put 1/2" ID barbs on it. That's the only fault I can see with the new block. I can't use my existing tubing on it. Other than that, it looks like another good Switfy.