New Water Cooling guy....could use your valuable input!

Hey folks! Thanks for providing such a great resource for people like me new to water cooling!

I'm not new to computers at all, just to the water cooling aspect. So first off, here's the rig:

CM HAF932
EVGA E760 Classified X58 3-way
Intel i7-920 D0 under a Hyper 212+
Corsair XMS3 3x2GB kit
Dual GTX 285's in SLI pushing a Dell FWP2408 1920x1200
OCZ Vertex Turbo 60GB SSD
Dual WD Black Edition 1TB (non-RAID)
Dual opticals
Corsair 950TX PSU

I'm wanting to initially cool the CPU and chipsets//Voltage Regs/MOSFETS.

I was thinking of the MCR220-QP since it's expandable/stackable for when I want to cool my GPU's later on when I have more $$$ for the job.

I was thinking of this CPU W/B, the MC-TDX for Intel I7/Nehalem/1366. It says it comes with 1/2" OD fittings yet the radiator can come with

The MCR120-QP features threaded hubs, compatible with 1/4" NPSM, BSPP, and G1/4 fitting (1/4" thread to 1/4", 3/8 or 1/2" barbs), 3/8" black nylon barb fittings included

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So what does the BSPP and NPSM mean in there? I assume the 1/4" NPSM means the threaded portion that goes into the rad itself while the thread then terminates in either 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" correct? I was thinking of going 3/8 to help with the tubing clutter. But should I go 1/2"?

Will the fittings on the CPU W/B also be able to be switched out for whatever size I choose for the radiator if different from the 1/2 inch OD fittings?

I guess I need help with understanding the fitting sizes and what components to go with. I'd like to keep it under $300 yet also include the block for the mobo chipset/voltage reg as well. Also, what should I use to secure the tubing to the fittings?

Any help you folks could give me in clearing this up and solid recommendations would be very appreciated! I've also read up on the HK 3.0LT CPU W/B, but haven't seen where I can get one here in the States.

I thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

from what I have heard around here the i7 920 will eat that 220 up..

MCR320 is a better route(paired with some yates loons with speed controller of course.

I don't know if cooling the chipsets//Voltage Regs/MOSFETS are going to show you much difference or rather are they worth it.(someone else chime in)

I would run a Swiftech 655 pump, triple yates, MCR320 and the resi of your choice. Might even help if you run 3 more 120's on the other side of the rad pulling as the others push..depending on the rad you get!

Goodluck as I will be in your shoes rather soon myself(as well as a buddy of mine)

GIXXERGUY6 said:

from what I have heard around here the i7 920 will eat that 220 up..

MCR320 is a better route(paired with some yates loons with speed controller of course.

I don't know if cooling the chipsets//Voltage Regs/MOSFETS are going to show you much difference or rather are they worth it.(someone else chime in)

I would run a Swiftech 655 pump, triple yates, MCR320 and the resi of your choice. Might even help if you run 3 more 120's on the other side of the rad pulling as the others push..depending on the rad you get!

Goodluck as I will be in your shoes rather soon myself(as well as a buddy of mine)

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I've had a Corsair H50 (push/pull config) on here for the last month, took it off to try out the 212+ for a comparison of the H50 to a good, well known air cooler, and the H50 has been pretty capable of keeping the 920 cooled up to 1.3V and 4.0GHz. Loaded temps running two instances of F@H SMP for 24 hours with a 70°F ambient was 71°C. So surely a dedicated loop with a res, 220 Rad, 655 pump, CPU Block and 3/8" ID tubing can do better than that right?

BTW, at load the 212+ was 8° hotter.

09CivicSI said:

Hey folks! Thanks for providing such a great resource for people like me new to water cooling!

I'm not new to computers at all, just to the water cooling aspect. So first off, here's the rig:

CM HAF932
EVGA E760 Classified X58 3-way
Intel i7-920 D0 under a Hyper 212+
Corsair XMS3 3x2GB kit
Dual GTX 285's in SLI pushing a Dell FWP2408 1920x1200
OCZ Vertex Turbo 60GB SSD
Dual WD Black Edition 1TB (non-RAID)
Dual opticals
Corsair 950TX PSU

I'm wanting to initially cool the CPU and chipsets//Voltage Regs/MOSFETS.

I was thinking of the MCR220-QP since it's expandable/stackable for when I want to cool my GPU's later on when I have more $$$ for the job.

I was thinking of this CPU W/B, the MC-TDX for Intel I7/Nehalem/1366. It says it comes with 1/2" OD fittings yet the radiator can come with



So what does the BSPP and NPSM mean in there? I assume the 1/4" NPSM means the threaded portion that goes into the rad itself while the thread then terminates in either 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" correct? I was thinking of going 3/8 to help with the tubing clutter. But should I go 1/2"?

Will the fittings on the CPU W/B also be able to be switched out for whatever size I choose for the radiator if different from the 1/2 inch OD fittings?

I guess I need help with understanding the fitting sizes and what components to go with. I'd like to keep it under $300 yet also include the block for the mobo chipset/voltage reg as well. Also, what should I use to secure the tubing to the fittings?

Any help you folks could give me in clearing this up and solid recommendations would be very appreciated! I've also read up on the HK 3.0LT CPU W/B, but haven't seen where I can get one here in the States.

I thank you in advance for any help you can provide!

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I wouldn't recommend trying to use a dual rad to cool the CPU and fets on your board. You are better off with a triple. As far as putting the NB under water, with an i7, it isn't needed. The northbridge doesn't generate anywhere close to the heat of older generations, and even they didn't need to be under water, unless you were really cranking the FSB. A dual 120 rad is enough to cool the i7, but when you decide to throw in the mosfets into the loop as well, you need enough rad to dissipate the heat dump, which can start getting up there. I would recommend the MCR320 if you want to stick with the Swifty rad, and then another when you decide to add the GPU's in as well. Alternatively, you could opt for the XSPC RX 480, which is capable of removing somewhere around 800 watts or more of heat. The H50 will never come close to comparing with a good water setup. I would recommend you take a look at our Sticky's before you start making some purchases.

Barb thread sizes.

G1/4 threads is pretty much all you need to know, NOTHING is NPT anymore.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5906163&postcount=15

Mobo water blocks will cost you about $100 alone. Bring your total closer to $400 for a CPU/Mobo loop. You'll need a bigger rad too.

The DD TDX block is outdated. It works but not near as capable as the Swiftech GTZ, Apogee XT, or the Heatkiller HK 3.0. Look at those blocks.

Also, read here for a bit. MANY good links in the link you should bookmark. Give it a few days of reading a lot, and reading MANY posts here.

In a week or so you'll have most of your questions answered by a bit of research.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/256607-29-watercooling-read-first

Conumdrum said:

Barb thread sizes.

G1/4 threads is pretty much all you need to know, NOTHING is NPT anymore.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5906163&postcount=15

Mobo water blocks will cost you about $100 alone. Bring your total closer to $400 for a CPU/Mobo loop. You'll need a bigger rad too.

The DD TDX block is outdated. It works but not near as capable as the Swiftech GTZ, Apogee XT, or the Heatkiller HK 3.0. Look at those blocks.

Also, read here for a bit. MANY good links in the link you should bookmark. Give it a few days of reading a lot, and reading MANY posts here.

In a week or so you'll have most of your questions answered by a bit of research.

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/256607-29-watercooling-read-first

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@Conumdrum

Thank you for your answers and advice. I was reading your Tomshardware article early this morning. The links I found there spawned a four hour, from 0100-0500 reading frenzy of eyegasmic proportions. Since the 320mm rad keeps being brought up, I did a search for "HAF932 water cooling" and see that many people are putting the 320 rads in the very top of the case. My intent was to make sure I put the entire setup inside the case and knowing now that you can, even with a 320, I'll be going with that.

Would you suggest two different loops? One for the CPU/mobo and one for the GPU's? I don't plan on including the GPU's at first, so this route would appeal to me.

Also, thank you for the suggested CPU blocks. I'll be trying to find the HK 3.0. So far, I haven't been able to find one State-side.

I was, perhaps, a bit misleading when I said I was a water cooling n00b. I should clarify that statement with this. Back in 1998, I was using a Chevette heatercore and a homemade waterblock I bought from a guy down the street to cool my then smoking fast AMD K6-2 CPU. I played with water cooling up until 2002, but not since then and my, has the landscape changed radically since then!

Researching is always good advice. Which is why I registered and created this thread. The advice from those in the trenches always outweighs that of the review sites IMO.

@deadlysyn
I'm very well aware the H50 isn't considered a "true" water cooling set up. But for what it is and the price, $60 at Bestbuy, there's no air cooler I'd bother buying since the H50 is so quiet and performs so tremendously well for an all-in-one unit. But since I'm looking for advice on a full water cooling set up, my thoughts of the H50 vs. a "true" W/C solution should be evident. Thank you for the advice, I do not plan on making any purchases until the system I come up with meets the approval of the folks here.

The only reason I had the 212+ sitting here is that is what I use on my test bench.

Please keep your advice and suggestions coming. Every time one of you posts a link or a suggested component, I'm off doing in-depth research on it. I'm not your typical forum leech in that I will not take what you say as gospel. I will research it until I'm blue in the fingers! I want to learn the best methods and components and if that means I end up spending $400, then that's what it means. Crazy way of doing things huh?

Also, I did go through the stickies earlier this morning and have now figured out I will be using 3/8" ID tubing per the performance numbers in this post. No reason to go 1/2" if there's decimal point level differences in cooling ability as long as I use a quality pump, which I will.

09 Honda dude:

Your the type we want here and appreciate. Not clueless, willing to dig till blue in the face and long winded in a readable way. Keep at it.

Like I said somewhere, it took me 3 months till I ordered my first part.

And yea, do your CPU loop first add a second later for the GPUs.

Conumdrum said:

09 Honda dude:

Your the type we want here and appreciate. Not clueless, willing to dig till blue in the face and long winded in a readable way. Keep at it.

Like I said somewhere, it took me 3 months till I ordered my first part.

And yea, do your CPU loop first add a second later for the GPUs.

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Thanks for signing off on that plan of action. I appreciate it. Just like all the help I've received so far. I much prefer to be led in the right direction than given just parts. I want to know the why's behind it. So again, thanks for all the links and info!

Man, I'm smoked on reading about water cooling. I'll pick up the task again tomorrow. Three days of nothing but water cooling, but by mid-week, I think I might have educated myself enough for the rough draft parts list.

@Civic
goodluck with your research ive been reading up wc for like a 2 weeks who would've known u need to plan so much for wc but i dont mind it because the thought of a mistake in a wc setup sounds worse to me than taking my time to read and learn rather than trial and error.......

just curious can anyone point out what they think are the most common wc mistakes/screw ups/horror stories ??

#1. Not leak testing enough
#2. Not using clamps
#3. Buy a junk premade setup, ie, no research
#4. Not maintaining it properly

What do you folks think of the PrimoFlex Pro tubing? Supposed to cut way down on microbials from forming and it's very kink resistant. I'm still going to us some type of anti-kink coils though. I've been checking them out half the evening and so far, I like what I see. But I'd rather hear from some of you on it.

haven't heard anything bad about that tubing, only good.

09CivicSI said:

What do you folks think of the PrimoFlex Pro tubing? Supposed to cut way down on microbials from forming and it's very kink resistant. I'm still going to us some type of anti-kink coils though. I've been checking them out half the evening and so far, I like what I see. But I'd rather hear from some of you on it.

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I've got that tubing in my rig. It's awesome stuff.

I don't know for sure that the Primo LRT is anti microbial, since I have only seen it advertised on a couple of sites. I would still recommend the use of .999 pure silver or PT-Nuke, or both. I will say that I have 9 feet of the 1/2" ID 3/4"OD in black, and the bending radius is amazing. Try looking into some Bitspower True Silver barbs or compression fittings, or a Silver Kill Coil. The silver fittings are a bit pricey (I think I paid $3 a piece for my barbs), a kill coil is usually pretty cheap (I think around $5), or you can buy a silver strip from Jab-Tech for about $4 plus shipping, which you can make one large coil out of, or a couple of smaller ones. I will see if I can dig up a link for you.

deadlysyn said:

I don't know for sure that the Primo LRT is anti microbial, since I have only seen it advertised on a couple of sites. I would still recommend the use of .999 pure silver or PT-Nuke, or both. I will say that I have 9 feet of the 1/2" ID 3/4"OD in black, and the bending radius is amazing. Try looking into some Bitspower True Silver barbs or compression fittings, or a Silver Kill Coil. The silver fittings are a bit pricey (I think I paid $3 a piece for my barbs), a kill coil is usually pretty cheap (I think around $5), or you can buy a silver strip from Jab-Tech for about $4 plus shipping, which you can make one large coil out of, or a couple of smaller ones. I will see if I can dig up a link for you.

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i'm guessing it was mentioned being that it's coloured tubing and thus harder for light to get to the water.

Spawn-Inc said:

i'm guessing it was mentioned being that it's coloured tubing and thus harder for light to get to the water.

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I would still be a little wary of those claims, since most of the res's I see out there are clear acrylic. If what I have read is right, all it takes is a clear res, and some LED's or CCFL's to help start algae growth, especially if those lights happen to be UV. A few drops of PTN or a Silver Kill Coil should be more than enough to help keep that problem to a minimum.

deadlysyn said:

I would still be a little wary of those claims, since most of the res's I see out there are clear acrylic. If what I have read is right, all it takes is a clear res, and some LED's or CCFL's to help start algae growth, especially if those lights happen to be UV. A few drops of PTN or a Silver Kill Coil should be more than enough to help keep that problem to a minimum.

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oh ya, no substitute for a silver kill coil or pt nuke. even if i ran that tygon silver tubing i would still use a biocide.

You don't need anti kink coils. Few use them. They look funky and in a well designed loop (meaning not idiotic) you don't need them. Besides they are a royal pain to get on and get exactly spaced.

Spawn-Inc said:

oh ya, no substitute for a silver kill coil or pt nuke. even if i ran that tygon silver tubing i would still use a biocide.

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I don't actually think I would be willing to spend $4-5 a foot for tubing, when I can get the same effect with a Kill Coil and Masterkleer or Primochill LRT. I have the True Silver fittings, so that removes the need for a coil. I am still thinking about getting a bottle of PTN just to be on the safe side.

Edit: I'm sure I said something about posting up a link to the silver strip at Jab-Tech, and it slipped my mind. Here it is: http://www.jab-tech.com/Antimicrobial-Silver-Strip-pr-4530.html