Arctic Silver Adhesive...

[RainMaQer]

Hehe... old thread got deleted... here we go again...:p

Anyone know what kind of pressure AS adhesive can hold up to? And is it waterproof?








William... hands off:D

[ButcherUK]

about 300-500 psi, roughly (from my own experience), it's nothing like as strong as jbweld or similar for instance. No it's not waterproof, if you wanted to fix a waterblock together try solder ;)

[RainMaQer]

the only solder that would work (to my knowlegde) would be silver solder... hard to find around here... darn... what I'm doing is attaching a silver plate to aluminum. Any ideas?:eh?:

[dreadlord79]

JB Weld. It comes in 2 tubes whic you mix together to use like you would the AS:E. It is made to be used on car engines for fixing cracks in the block (not the safest idea) so it can take quite a bit of heat and a lot of pressure. Ruff up the area you want it to bond to or it won' take. You should be able to get it at a local auto parts store. Another might be marine epoxy. Hope it helps. :)

[RainMaQer]

Am I wrong... would 40 tin/ 60 lead rosin core solder work?

[ButcherUK]

Silver has a standard electrode potential of 0.8V, Al is -1.67V, so it's going to be really hard to solder them (same as cu/al joining problem). Looks like glue it is for you :)

[RainMaQer]

Anyone know what kind of heat conductivity JBweld has?

[Hoot]

Believe it or not, there are solders that work between aluminum and copper or silver. I have not used any, but I'm sitting here, holding the ThermalRight AX-7 prototype in my hand

http://www.overclockers.com/articles522/

and the aluminum fins are obviously soldered to a copper baseplate, so such a solder must exist. Just a matter of finding it.

BTW, that is one Kick-Butt HSF.

Hoot

[RainMaQer]

I asked BladeRunner how he soldered his GF3 blocks together... he said copper is real easy to solder... but he thought aluminum might be harder... and silver was a whole nother story.

[Genoide]

You guys don't mind if I post here since its Artic Silver related?
Here I go... I got Artic Silver II Premium silver, and I applied it for the first time on my CPU i placed it on the CPU not the heatsink, anyways I did take off the black stuff on the damn HSF, it must of been some cheap thermal paste it brought, well anyways my temps are kinda aggressive since i appled the artic silver II on the cpu, @ 1460 1.75 V the temps are @ 40C-45C full load now that isn't normal I can reach 1600 Full load will be 47C, why do I know? because I done it before and my aluminium case has 9 fans including 1 120 mm used for exhaust. So maybe it was that i applied too little or that i didn't wait long enough? how long should I wait until I use it after it was applied? I used it like 1-2 laters after I applied it. Is that ok? or should I wait? What do you guys reccomend?

[ButcherUK]

Originally posted by RainMaQer
I asked BladeRunner how he soldered his GF3 blocks together... he said copper is real easy to solder... but he thought aluminum might be harder... and silver was a whole nother story.
He's right - I've done Cu/Cu and Al/Al soldering, and copper solders REALLY easily, dab of flux, heat, solder and boom one solid joint. Al is a little POS to solder though, very prone to dry joints. I don;t think you'll joint Ag/Al well with 60/40 solder. Silver solder might work, but not bets on it. I used some 80 lead / 18 tin / 2 Ag solder for the Al / Al - it's supposed to be better than normal 60/40 for it.

[ButcherUK]

Genoide - what heatsink is that? Also is that tbird or XP?

[Genoide]

ITS A TBIRD Volcanoe 6Cu+ Termalake