mcr 320 drive

this pump/rad combo
1.does it bleed easily the fill fort will be level with the top of the case?
2.what would the loss for using 3/8 instead of 1/2 inch tubing and fittings?
ty for any experience and help....

1. Dunno how well it bleeds, but I assume it's okay.
2. Negligible.

1. not sure as i've never seen one in action, but i would think it's along the lines of the mcr res/rad series. though it might be a bit more difficult since the pump's inlet is right at the bottom and more inclined to pull air in the loop. but as long as the res is full of water it should be fine.

2. no, there is very little difference between 3/8", 7/16", and 1/2" tubing for pc water cooling. so it all comes down to choice and looks.

I've never seen one in person, but just looking at the pictures of it, it looks like bleeding it down should be a breeze since the pump suction is directly on the bottom of the rad.

muddocktor said:

I've never seen one in person, but just looking at the pictures of it, it looks like bleeding it down should be a breeze since the pump suction is directly on the bottom of the rad.

Click to expand...

i would think that would hinder it since it would pull to fast and suck air in the system before you have a chance to top it off. but i guess it would bleed the air out just as fast as well.

I'd ONLY put that rad/pump setup in a vertical setup. Otherwise it will bleed nicely and topping it off should be a breeze

wow eggxellent answers crew just what i needed.....

that radiator looks neat , decent space saver

It would probably be no different than one of our custom loops, in a sense. if you top off the res, let it sit so the water can work it's way through, then top it off, til the water level quits dropping, the chances of sucking any air in should be pretty slim. I know when I started filling my loop, when the water level got to the bottom barb on the res, it took a bit of water before the res actually filled up. It seems that it started filling some of the lines before the res filled up, so the GPU block was most likely full before the res ever was.

Fill the res til it quits dropping the level, and you should be good. Mine was a simple matter of fill the res, bump the pump, repeat, and fill the res. After that, I was leak testing. I think it is done working out the air bubbles, since the water level in the res has dropped just a little bit, but nothing to worry about. The water level hasn't changed in a few days. Today makes one week that the loop has been installed.

As far as tubing sizes, I think the difference between 3/8" and 1/2" is less than 1°C, and the difference between 7/16" and 1/2" is even less than that, maybe closer to 0.3°C. The water will move through the loop so fast that I don't think that tubing size really has that much of an impact anymore, and with today's free flowing blocks, may even be better to introduce a little bit of restriction.

deadlysyn said:

As far as tubing sizes, I think the difference between 3/8" and 1/2" is less than 1°C, and the difference between 7/16" and 1/2" is even less than that, maybe closer to 0.3°C. The water will move through the loop so fast that I don't think that tubing size really has that much of an impact anymore, and with today's free flowing blocks, may even be better to introduce a little bit of restriction.

Click to expand...

Best if we go a bit deeper and explain to the OP why tubing size can matter.

It's a difference in flow rate. 3/8 has less GPM vs an exact duplicate loop of 1/2. The flow rate will be less, by just a little bit, different in every loop.

Explained here, shows the exact amout of differing GPM depending on the pumps head pressure.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515368

The temp difference does come into play if the flow rate drops below optimum for the CPU block. For example, my Apogee XT at 1GPM in Skinnees tests show a load temp of 66.5C. At 1.5GPM it's 66C. Over 1.5GPM the curve begins to flatten out a lot. Under 1GPM it gets worse fast.

http://skinneelabs.com/swiftech-xt.html

Slowing the water down increases temps, because the block needs specific flow patterns which are reduced when the flow rate drops below a minimum rate.

In the OPs loop he won't have to worry about flow rates with his planned setup using 3/8 tubing.

Conumdrum, why are you linking stuff at xtreme that we have covered here? The impact of tubing sizes. There's a lot of good info there at extreme, but there is also a lot of info right here too and you don't have to deal with so many overinflated ego's.

@boucher91,

I find that using 7/16 ID tubing to be a darn good compromise to use instead of either 3/8 or 1/2 ID tubing. It bends nearly as tightly as 3/8 ID tubing and has very little more pressure drop than 1/2 ID tubing. Plus, when slipped over 1/2 barbs it makes for a good, tight seal and nearly leakproof without having clamps on it in almost all situations.

LOL, I never knew Cathar posted the same exact info here, I stand corrected. Been using the XS tubing link for a long time. Our sticky situation is really looking up for sure.

Thanks Mud!

Updated post with our linkie.

well for futureproofing/upgradability purposes ive changed my mind...
going for the
655b
xpsc rx480(going to trade with rad in sig)
swifty storm
swifty minires
and all 1/2inch tubing

btw this new system will be over kill for a x2 4400 oced to 2750 right now....with a swifty 220 compact....
but i see a upgrade coming next year for that one ...lol....

geeeeeez that 480 is one huge a@@ rad....
i gotta say WOWOWEEEEWOW

I've always figured by the time you're up to the 480 you may as well start looking for a good copper car radiator ...