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Corsair H50 Project Advice

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hheemmpp

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Feb 15, 2010
I have an Antec 900 case and i want to install the h50 in it for my cpu but I dont want the exhaust fan to become an intake and I came up with this idea and im just wondering what u guys think of it and if it will work.
w8277t.jpg
Where the Fan 2 and Fan 1 are, are obviously 2 120mm(i think) fans for intake and the fans are in cages that u can move and I was thinking I could move Fan 2 to the very top and drop my optical drive between Fan 2 and Fan 1 and mount my H50 to the back of the Fan 2 Cage.
Look something like this
30dl3d5.jpg
Do you think the Fan 2 120mm fan will be good enough to push air into the pushing fan of the h50. The fans can take in a good amount of air and its pretty cold on the honeycomb cage. Something like the Fan 2 fan will be pushing air in which is colder then regular air since its being pushed faster then standing air into the first h50 fan which will be pushing the colder air threw the rad and being pulled by another fan then my 2 exhaust fans will suck out the hot air. Thanks for reading and hopefullly you can help :)
 
Don't have much input, but I will say it's important to ensure the fans in the push/pull configuration are matched up well - otherwise if one fan is pushing more air than the other, it can make things very noisy.

I'm sure someone else will be around soon with more input. :welcome:


From our corsair h50 article on overclockers.com:
Regarding the push-pull results, we had to run the High Speed Yate Loon at 3.3V (which was amazing in itself that the thing still ran) or the Corsair fan put forth a rather loud, extremely annoying sounding protest. This stands to reason, as the Yate was pulling the Corsair faster than it was designed to go. What you should take away from this is that if you’re going to run this cooler in push-pull, get two stronger fans to do so. The Corsair fan just isn’t strong enough to cope well enough with an overclocked i7.
 
Sure this will work. What kind of CPU are you trying to cool? What else is in the case? Are you cooling your HDD's with the intake fans or are they only for intake? You could even install both fan 1 and 2 as a "push/pull" meaning one fan in front and one behind of the radiator. Link in this picture. This is usually the most effective for water cooling Rad's.

Looking at it just now you should be fine making that rear into an intake as you have the big one on top as an exhaust. I wouldn't even worry about it man. I mean just try it and see what temps you get, worst case you do it the other way. I don't see you haveing any problem just making the rear an intake at all.
 
Well I planned on getting 2 of the exact same fans for the push pull config. I'm cooling a Phenom II X4 955 and I wanna get 4.0 and past. I only have one hard drive and the bottom fan cage is cooling it so thats no problem and I have HIS 5770 and a Sunbeam 650w power supply. I have a dark knight cpu cooler right now.
 
I don't have much experience with AMD cpu's as I'm an intel man ;). If they are anything like the i series at all then you trying to get to 4.0 with this cooler is a dream you should let go now bud, sorry. I could be wrong though who knows. The h50 is a decent cooler but it's nothing compared to a proper water cooling loop that would give you better results.
 
I've got mine overclocked to 3.8 right now fairly easy. My air keeps it about 52C and under on full load but I wouldn't mind lower temps for when I try to push 4.0++ and I'd rather not go spend 300$ on some cooling when I can get it for 80$+ for better then air performance so its good for me. The fans I was looking at maybe: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103062, They have a molex adapter I guess you would call it because I doubt a 3/4 pin connector would reach the mobo. How do you think these fans would do in a push/pull and their noise level is pretty low.
 
The hoses won't be long enough. You have to put it at the back exhaust, suck in cool air through the rad (suggest you go push/pull with some decent fans from others results) and put the 200mm on med/high.

That AMD isn't that hot, he'll be fine.
 
The hoses won't be long enough. You have to put it at the back exhaust, suck in cool air through the rad (suggest you go push/pull with some decent fans from others results) and put the 200mm on med/high.

That AMD isn't that hot, he'll be fine.

Do you know how long the hoses are I could measure it out. But I think it could fit because I'm going to try and mount the rad on the back of the fan cage not up in the front where the stock fan is.

EDIT: I read somewhere the hoses are 11-12inches, I roughly measured 11 inches from the top of the case where the cage ends and it clears the cpu position by a little bit maybe .5in - 3in, extremely ruff measurement but its late dont wanna lug a 50 pound case out and tinker with it right now
 
11-12" Been measured and stated by others. Actually more like 10" because you can't bend the hoses in a perfect 90 degree for what you need. Can't increase the length either, it's a closed loop.

You put it at back at the fan cage in a 900 you'll be using WARM case air to cool the rad. Bad mojo. Poor temps. I know 900 cases.

We have had MILLIONs of discussions on the H50.
 
I know that I would be using warm case air but thats why I thought if I moved the fan cage from the bottom to the top it will be blowing the cool air in into the first push fan of the h50
 
Well i'm very against the idea of mounting it on my exhaust spot for intake, maybe theres another way of mounting it that is still inside the case. Take out the top 200mm fan? Any ideas would be helpful thanks
 
Why would you be against using the rear as an intake? seems the best way to me. Those fans though. Hmmm, I don;t know about their stats they say they are

Air Flow 90 CFM
Noise Level 19 dBA

I think they are flat out lying, bud. You're probably better off with these Yate's, Their $$ each and I know they work well ;)
If you're partial to the Green LED
 
If you can put a 120mm fan where the 200mm bracket is, you could mount the H50 up there using the upper fan as intake.

To get the best results out of the cooler, it really is necessary to have nice, cool outside air flowing through the rad. If I may ask, why are you so adamant against using the normal rear exhaust location as an intake? You could even fully reverse the airflow in your case if you felt like it. It's just a fan position, no rule says we absolutely have to use it as exhaust. :)

The cooler itself should be fine on your CPU, you'll just need to get it mounted in a good spot for optimal cooling.

Also, +1 to Detale's comments on those fans. 90CFM and 2000RPM at 19dBA is an outright lie.
 
Those fans were proven wayyy wrong in testing. In fact they came out and corrected the real numbers, read it in a post at least once in a few places. They ain't bad fans, it's a classic syndrom of marketing suits overcoming the techs who build and test the stuff. Bad mojo IMHO.
 
I do understand that these things seem good especially for the price, but the facts are they aren't as good as even a single 120 rad loop. TBH I was even going to get one for a time as I almost gave up on water cooling due to a leak a ways back. Glad I didn't though :)
 
As usual I'm going to be the dissenting vote here! This configuration should work quite well :)

30dl3d5.jpg

- but to avoid the problem Conumdrum brought up you'll have to enclose the area between Fan 2 and the rad. You can use almost anything for that from simple duct tape (messy) to paper/cardboard to fancy laminated insulator board or even clear plastic sheets (thick/stiff or thin like Mylar). It doesn't really matter what you use as long as it's relatively airtight with a smooth surface. The cage will provide structural support for whatever you pick so, really, almost anything will work. (Even paper with an added 1/2" long stiffener set 90° off the plane will support across the 5.25" bay - or better yet a triangle-shaped support. ;))

As for distances, a quick check of the ATX spec shows the board is 9.6" wide and the far left screw hole at the top of the board is 8.3" from the right edge. As a very rough guess the CPU socket is another 1" closer so figure 7 1/4" from the CPU to the right edge of the board. You'll need to add some extra length to account for the curve of the tubing and you'll need to consider the 3D aspect as well since the CPU IN/OUT won't be perfectly lined up with the rad IN/OUT (as far as height off motherboard goes). But IF the tubing is 12" long I think you'll be able to clear the motherboard without a problem and probably make it to the cage as well*. From there you'll need to fashion some brackets to mount the rad and you'll probably have to take the front of the case off (during construction) to get to both sides of the cage, install the "tunnel" enclosure, and screw the rad in place.


So, ya, a little more work to do it that way but I do think it'll work ... :)


*You can test the length by taking some zip-ties and putting them together into a 12" long piece, then shut down your rig, hold one end near the CPU and just see how well it'll fit. Be sure to account for the 3D position change from the top of the curve off the CPU to nearer the board at the rad IN (or OUT, whichever it is).
 
Agreed Quietice! He can make it work. Your idea can open his eyes to case modding, something we deal with.

Lots have put it inside the case with push/pull into the case, getting cool air to the rad.

There are tons of ways, it's up to the op depending on the case layout etc.

It can be done with effort and using the ol' noggin. Thats one of the most satisfying fun things about this whole overclocking cooling thing.
 
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