[poll] Small case WCing (mini P180)

Caddish · Mar 1, 2010

Hi I started a thread there http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1497024
but I still I'm unsure about Rad positionning.

Initially I had planned to mount my rad like that http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/7106/config1.png

But when my father saw me it said that it was stupid to shoot hot air from the rad onto the reservoir and inside the case.

He thinks it's better to remove the top fan and place the rad with fan shooting air from inside the case to the exterior. The opening on top of the case is slightly smaller than the rad so it would restrict the airflow a little

What do you think ?

Poll : (I did not find how to do a real poll)

Rad on top airflow inside > outside
Rad in front airflow inside > outise
Rad in front airflow outside > inside

Conumdrum · Mar 2, 2010

Anytime you can blow outside room air through and not case air through the rad it's a good thing. Blowing air on the res is worth .000001 for cooling.

You don't have a lot of case flow to start with, so keeping the main parts cool is first priority.

Caddish · Mar 2, 2010

That's what I thought. Can you guesstimate how warm the air will be after passing through the 120.2 cooling a i7-860+5850 with 2x1600rpm

Nebulous · Mar 2, 2010

Caddish said:
That's what I thought. Can you guesstimate how warm the air will be after passing through the 120.2 cooling a i7-860+5850 with 2x1600rpm

Lets just say it will be quite warm. Remember the rad will dissipating the heat from both the 860 & the 5850.

So just to guesstimate:

Intel i7 860 specs

95watts from the 860 (stock speed)

and the 5850: Ati 5850 Specs

Idle board power: 27 Watts
Maximum board power: 151 Watts

I would doubt a single 220 rad will be able to keep up. A 320 rad will tho.

hokiealumnus · Mar 2, 2010

+1 to pulling outside air through the rad. Your components will thank you.

Also +1 to a 120.2 not being enough for that loop. It MIGHT be enough for just the CPU, but even that's pushing it. I have a CPU-only loop and a 120.3 + a 120.2. It's slight overkill, but keeps the processor at a very acceptable temp. I wouldn't hesitate adding a GPU to this loop. FWIW.

Caddish · Mar 2, 2010

Thank's for the reply. About the Rad I know it's small but I made the calculation on the PSU Calculator and the system would consume around 350W in full load (CPU and GPU 100% even though I rarely load both at the same time) can be dissipated with two 1600rpm fan and water 9C over ambient. Lowering the delta is expensive, lower the efficienty of the rad (efficienty of the rad will lower exponentially with the decrease of the delta, it's one of the rare thing I remember from my thermodynamic class) and will only save a few °C. I also know that I will change my GPU/CPU far before they will fail so I'm ok with a few °C more than your CPU.

Knowing that the air on the other side of the rad can't get much more hot than 30-35°C (25°C ambient + 10°C) is it too hot to cool the NB (it has a big heatsink), mofset and ram ...

Also i wonder how warm the air in the case can get with two fan pushing air out , 1 pushing in and pretty much only the NB, mofset and ram generating heat since we can consider that almost all the heat of the CPU/GPU will go in the water.

Everything is based on thin air if I got it wrong somewhere feel free to correct me...

New_to_WC · Mar 3, 2010

have u though about mounting the rad at the bottom of the case as the coldest air is down lower , hot air rises .

Would u have room. ?

i wouldn't put the rad at the top as all the component's hot air that rises will heat the rad slowly.
also rad up top will decrease the air flow getting out.
just my thought's.

New_to_WC · Mar 3, 2010

This is how i am going to set mine up .
order all the parts just waiting for them to arrive

.
hopefully early next week.

anyways this is a quick sketch i done of how i am going to set mine up.

This is the tread i posted to get help.
http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6413401#post6413401
u will see the parts so on i ordered.
i learned a crap load the past few mouths.

hokiealumnus · Mar 3, 2010

Caddish said:
Thank's for the reply. About the Rad I know it's small but I made the calculation on the PSU Calculator and the system would consume around 350W in full load (CPU and GPU 100% even though I rarely load both at the same time) can be dissipated with two 1600rpm fan and water 9C over ambient. Lowering the delta is expensive, lower the efficienty of the rad (efficienty of the rad will lower exponentially with the decrease of the delta, it's one of the rare thing I remember from my thermodynamic class) and will only save a few °C. I also know that I will change my GPU/CPU far before they will fail so I'm ok with a few °C more than your CPU.

Knowing that the air on the other side of the rad can't get much more hot than 30-35°C (25°C ambient + 10°C) is it too hot to cool the NB (it has a big heatsink), mofset and ram ...

Also i wonder how warm the air in the case can get with two fan pushing air out , 1 pushing in and pretty much only the NB, mofset and ram generating heat since we can consider that almost all the heat of the CPU/GPU will go in the water.

Everything is based on thin air if I got it wrong somewhere feel free to correct me...

I think you're misunderstanding heat load. The power your system will draw from a PSU is not equal to the heat load put out by your CPU & GPU.

GPUs are difficult to get the TDP (thermal design parameter) for. Conumdrum posted this thread a little bit ago with info on that.

Processors are easier, with Intel listing the specs.

Actually, now that I look, Nebulous has already done the work for you. It's a roughly 276W load at bone stock - no overclocking. When you overclock them, i7's heat output increase exponentially.

If you're not looking for the best temps (as in, you could do the same with decent air cooling), a 120.2 might do it for you. To compensate for the lack of surface, I'd highly recommend, like you said, a high FPI rad such as a Black Ice GTX with some screamers on it ...don't forget the ear plugs.

New_to_WC said:
have u though about mounting the rad at the bottom of the case as the coldest air is down lower , hot air rises .

Would u have room. ?

i wouldn't put the rad at the top as all the component's hot air that rises will heat the rad slowly.
also rad up top will decrease the air flow getting out.
just my thought's.

Heat rising won't matter with fans blowing cool, room-temperature air through the rad.

Caddish · Mar 3, 2010

I think you're misunderstanding heat load. The power your system will draw from a PSU is not equal to the heat load put out by your CPU & GPU.

GPUs are difficult to get the TDP (thermal design parameter) for. Conumdrum posted this thread a little bit ago with info on that.

Processors are easier, with Intel listing the specs.

Actually, now that I look, Nebulous has already done the work for you. It's a roughly 276W load at bone stock - no overclocking. When you overclock them, i7's heat output increase exponentially.

That's pretty much what the PSU calculator did but I choose to overclock the cpu to 3.8ghz/1.4v which raises the TDP of the CPU to 150W so that bring us to ~320w including the pump.

Now if I look at these graph from skinnee lab it show that with 1600rpm fan / 10°C delta most 120.3 will dissipate ~500w so I'm guessing that 320w for a 120.2 is pushing it but feasable with average temp like you said

If you're not looking for the best temps (as in, you could do the same with decent air cooling), a 120.2 might do it for you. To compensate for the lack of surface, I'd highly recommend, like you said, a high FPI rad such as a Black Ice GTX with some screamers on it ...don't forget the ear plugs.

I almost went for it but finally decided to go with 1600rpm so it was not worth the flow drop since according to the graph they perform similarly at 1600 rpm

Heat rising won't matter with fans blowing cool, room-temperature air through the rad

I'm going to try the rad in the front with the fan both way and measure de difference. Is there a temp sensor on the northbridge or mofset or something to see if the mobo temp are too high ?

DumpALump · Mar 3, 2010

I believe you should be able to add a 120.1 radiator to the rear as the first exhaust of heat, so that when the water gets to the front radiator it shouldn't be as warm and would reduce case temps. It is pretty much what I'm doing to my p180b. The only issue is I'll be running case temps through the rear radiator, but because the temps of the water will be much greater, it should still cool it down quite well.

Caddish · Mar 13, 2010

Just wanted to say thank's for the help and here is the final result

Basic worklog here : http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=247198

Grosjambon · Mar 13, 2010

U should buy Gentle typhoon 1850 they are less noisy and have a good static pressure

and look defintinaly NICE
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/scge120mmsic2.html

Caddish · Mar 13, 2010

I'm hesitating between the GT 1850 and the apache akasa. But I can't find a comparison between the two

[poll] Small case WCing (mini P180)

Caddish

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Conumdrum

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Caddish

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Nebulous

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hokiealumnus

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Caddish

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New_to_WC

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hokiealumnus

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Caddish

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