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OMG the RaT is going water......

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HousERaT

HousERaT

Senior Air Extraordinaire
​
Joined
Apr 9, 2004
Location
Imladris
Well after more than a decade of establishing myself as a true blue "Air Jordan," I've decided it's time to go water. This is precipitated by my eventual move to Atlanta where the weather doesn't really cooperate with air cooling, especially in the summer months. I'm a total noob when it comes to water so please chime in if you see something wrong. Here's what I'm looking at:

Swiftech Apogee XT $69.95 http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swapxtcpuwa.html

Swiftech MCP655 $76.95 http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmc12vdcpu.html

Swiftech MCR320 $48.95 http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcqupo3xbl.html

Bitspower TS G 1/4in $6.50 (2 with the rad) http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/big1trsi1fi.html

Swiftech MCRES Rev2 $22.95 http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swmcmire2re.html

Tygon R3603 Tubing $19.00 (10ft) http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty7id5odlatu.html





This is going to cool a I7 920 which I plan to run around 4Ghz

If there's anything else I've missed please let me know.

Thanks in advance.......

The RaT
 
Last edited:
I still might be benching on air. This rig is all going inside a case. ;)
 
great choices, for tubing since you wanting to stick with sidewinders, i assume, then any of the tygon 3603 is the most popular from tygon. though i personally use masterkleer (sidewinders doesn't have it).

don't forget fans, but i'm sure you own a ton already.

here are some guides to get the hang of it.

http://overclockerstech.com/index.p...s&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=88

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631501 - though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.
 
Spawn-Inc said:
great choices, for tubing since you wanting to stick with sidewinders, i assume, then any of the tygon 3603 is the most popular from tygon. though i personally use masterkleer (sidewinders doesn't have it).

don't forget fans, but i'm sure you own a ton already.

here are some guides to get the hang of it.

http://overclockerstech.com/index.p...s&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=88

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631501 - though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.
Click to expand...
Thanks Spawn..... I will digest these tonight when I get home. In terms of tubing, how do I determine which tubing will fit my gear? What size tubing will be best for my gear based on the information I've already presented?
 
HousERaT said:
Thanks Spawn..... I will digest these tonight when I get home. In terms of tubing, how do I determine which tubing will fit my gear? What size tubing will be best for my gear based on the information I've already presented?
Click to expand...

Tubing size will vary based on the barbs you select to come with your other items in the loop. This will be either an option when selecting the item to put in your shopping cart or you will have to buy aftermarket barbs. This may be a pain since there are different kinds of barb threads. The most common thread is the G 1/4 though.

Tubing size performance is almost negligible when comparing 3/8" to 1/2"

Check out Cathar's post here: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515368

Personally, I don't know what you are using as a case/station. If you are planning to use a case though, I would go with 3/8" tubing because of it's smaller diameter takes up less space interally.

Since your pump uses 1/2" barbs you may be stuck with using 1/2" tubing though unless you want to stretch 3/8" over 1/2" or buy reducers.


Edit; I recomend using 7/16" ID 5/8" OD. 7/16 will give a nice tight fit on the barbs and typically don't need a crazy clamp to keep em on or keep em from leaking, a zip tie will be all you need. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty7id5odlatu.html
 
Last edited:
WonderingSoul said:
Tubing size will vary based on the barbs you select to come with your other items in the loop. This will be either an option when selecting the item to put in your shopping cart or you will have to buy aftermarket barbs. This may be a pain since there are different kinds of barb threads. The most common thread is the G 1/4 though.

Tubing size performance is almost negligible when comparing 3/8" to 1/2"

Check out Cathar's post here: http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=515368

Personally, I don't know what you are using as a case/station. If you are planning to use a case though, I would go with 3/8" tubing because of it's smaller diameter takes up less space interally.

Since your pump uses 1/2" barbs you may be stuck with using 1/2" tubing though unless you want to stretch 3/8" over 1/2" or buy reducers.


Edit; I recomend using 7/16" ID 5/8" OD. 7/16 will give a nice tight fit on the barbs and typically don't need a crazy clamp to keep em on or keep em from leaking, a zip tie will be all you need. http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty7id5odlatu.html
Click to expand...
This is going in my CM-690.

Thanks for the insight on the tubing. I've added that to my list. Now regarding the barbs, you said I should go with 1/2" because of the barbs on the pump. Might that be any problem in turns of effectiveness of the loop? I just want everything to come together the first time without any hicups Also, I've read that people say you should stay away from dyes and such and if possible just use distilled water if you have the right metal (copper) in your loop? Did I read that correctly and is there any truth to this? Lastly can you tell from the stuff I've selected if I'll need to purchase barbs seperately? If so can you provide a link for them as well? You folks have been a great help so far. :soda:
 
HousERaT said:
I still might be benching on air. This rig is all going inside a case. ;)
Click to expand...

That's what I said when I first went to water....it stayed in the case about a month, then the Forum Warz started, and the case got propped up, and the radiator hung out and submerged into a bucket of ice water....then...................well, you get the idea :screwy:

:D :D :D Best of luck my friend :thup:
 
how many orders of tubing will I need if the rad will be outside the case (on the back or top)?
 
HousERaT said:
This is going in my CM-690.

Thanks for the insight on the tubing. I've added that to my list. Now regarding the barbs, you said I should go with 1/2" because of the barbs on the pump. Might that be any problem in turns of effectiveness of the loop? I just want everything to come together the first time without any hicups Also, I've read that people say you should stay away from dyes and such and if possible just use distilled water if you have the right metal (copper) in your loop? Did I read that correctly and is there any truth to this? Lastly can you tell from the stuff I've selected if I'll need to purchase barbs seperately? If so can you provide a link for them as well? You folks have been a great help so far. :soda:
Click to expand...

You can select barbs from the drop down menu at the bottom of the page for your radiator. The pump/block/res all come with barbs as is so you should be fine. I don't see any issues running with 1/2" barbs and using 7/16" tubing. I ran 7/16" tubing . There are no issues with effectiveness versus sizes, maybe 1-2c that's it. You can regular distilled water just fine. The only problem would occur if you have mixed metals in your loop, this will cause corrosion. But since you are running just copper you're fine.
 
WonderingSoul said:
You can select barbs from the drop down menu at the bottom of the page for your radiator. The pump/block/res all come with barbs as is so you should be fine. I don't see any issues running with 1/2" barbs and using 7/16" tubing. I ran 7/16" tubing . There are no issues with effectiveness versus sizes, maybe 1-2c that's it. You can regular distilled water just fine. The only problem would occur if you have mixed metals in your loop, this will cause corrosion. But since you are running just copper you're fine.
Click to expand...
So all I'd need is the Nuke Biocide and I'm good to go?
 
HousERaT said:
So all I'd need is the Nuke Biocide and I'm good to go?
Click to expand...

yup, or as wonderingsoul said you can get a .999 silver strip and just have to add distilled water only. you can also buy .999 silver plated fittings and then not have to worry about adding anything ever.

silver kill coil

Silver Strip

true silver 1/2" fittings

i run 2 silver plated compression fittings and use pt nuke as i ordered way to much.


as for the amount of tubing the average loop uses 6 feet or so, but for mishaps or extra i order 10 feet every order i make.
 
Spawn-Inc said:
yup, or as wonderingsoul said you can get a .999 silver strip and just have to add distilled water only. you can also buy .999 silver plated fittings and then not have to worry about adding anything ever.

silver kill coil

Silver Strip

true silver 1/2" fittings

i run 2 silver plated compression fittings and use pt nuke as i ordered way to much.


as for the amount of tubing the average loop uses 6 feet or so, but for mishaps or extra i order 10 feet every order i make.
Click to expand...
10 feet of tubing...... o.k. good.

I could actually put the 2 fittings right in the line and that will work as good as the silver coil? NO wait... you mean for the rad right?
 
HousERaT said:
10 feet of tubing...... o.k. good.

I could actually put the 2 fittings right in the line and that will work as good as the silver coil? NO wait... you mean for the rad right?
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter much where you put em. The best tip is that when you route the system, the order doesn't matter much just that you use the least amount of tubing or that you use the shortest distance overall.
 
HousERaT said:
10 feet of tubing...... o.k. good.

I could actually put the 2 fittings right in the line and that will work as good as the silver coil? NO wait... you mean for the rad right?
Click to expand...

with the parts you picked you could change out any stock barbs for the silver ones on the rad, block, and res.

2 will be enough for the loop though so if you have the option don't get any barbs with the rad. the block and res both ship with barbs, although the res comes with plastic ones.

EDIT: also note that the two barbs you selected in your first post are not silver plated, but just silver in colour. they MUST say 'true silver' to be plated with .999 silver. i linked to them above.
 
Spawn-Inc said:
with the parts you picked you could change out any stock barbs for the silver ones on the rad, block, and res.

2 will be enough for the loop though so if you have the option don't get any barbs with the rad. the block and res both ship with barbs, although the res comes with plastic ones.

EDIT: also note that the two barbs you selected in your first post are not silver plated, but just silver in colour. they MUST say 'true silver' to be plated with .999 silver. i linked to them above.
Click to expand...
OK...... adjusted the barbs for the true silver. I'd rather not have to worry about adding biocide.
 
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