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WC for a NG!

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ELSock

Registered
Joined
Mar 19, 2010
WaterCooling for a New Guy!
ok i have an antec 1200 case, with asus p6t motherboard, sporting and bloomfield 920 2.67 gb chip, and 6gbs of ocz gold ddr3 2000 triple channel. there are 7 fans in this rig... 2 on the rear exhaust, 3 on the front intake, 1 on the top exhaust, and 1 on the heat sync. the heat sync im running is the coolermaster hyper 212. and i'm tyring to over clock to 3.8, and my temps get a little unstable for my opinion under load. so i want to do a WC machine... for 200-300 dollars... what do i need, and whats the best, coldest bang for the buck?


and some pics of the inside for the visual of work room
DSC00508.jpg
DSC00510.jpg
DSC00509.jpg
 
I wouldnt expect you would need water with that case and a proper air cooler... 3.8Ghz with HT can be achieved by the best aircoolers (Prolimatech Megahelems, Venomous X, etc). Someone please correct me if I am wrong...
 
Welcome!

are you after silence or performance or both?

i'm guessing you want an internal setup?

since your new to water, please read the following guides and a bunch of threads here in the w/c forum. you should be able to get a good idea of what you want and will need.


http://overclockerstech.com/index.p...s&catid=40:overclocking-and-cooling&Itemid=88

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/253958-29-watercooling-guide

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=631501 - though i personally take my blocks apart to inspect for anything.
 
I wouldnt expect you would need water with that case and a proper air cooler... 3.8Ghz with HT can be achieved by the best aircoolers (Prolimatech Megahelems, Venomous X, etc). Someone please correct me if I am wrong...

Probably even 4.0..!

Your case looks exactly like mine ^^

What are your temps on full load then?
 
overclocked my temps on full load, checking through HWMonitor they jump from 40 to 100 in like 2 minutes using prime 95

i'm looking for performance more than silence... but the quieter the better ofcourse.


for the record it jumped up close to that high... not overclocked .... so i think i have a heat issue.
 
For performance, i would recommend a black ice GTX rad with Delta or San Ace fans (please note that these fans are loud) For coolant, distilled water + pt nuke or silver coil. For cpu blocks... look into a HK or EK supreme.
 
Where can I find said parts( black ice, hk)? Also any others wanna chime in on good water cooling ?
 
since your new to water, please read the following guides and a bunch of threads here in the w/c forum. you should be able to get a good idea of what you want and will need.

First : +1 Spawn

Second : :welcome:

Third : You have ~2 choice. Build your own WC parts list ( and ask us if its fine ) or grab an Apex Kit from swiftech

+ some distilled at your local wallmart + PTnuke.
 
What my esteemed colleagues are saying is that we prefer to help people by pushing them to develop their own knowledge of the hobby before jumping in with both feet. Not only will it save you headache, you might just learn something along the way. Read through the links Spawn posted and ask any questions you might have. Like Boulard said, we're happy to review the parts list you come up with.

Welcome to OCF!
 
how are enzotech, zalman, and swiftech?

i also saw someone say that it was a good idea to lapped this water block. what is lapped?

also is a reservoir needed?

what is PT-Nuke?

how big is the concern with condensation?

ps. thx for all the welcomes!
 
Last edited:
Swiftech, DengerDen, Koolance, EK and many others are good.

Dont LAP a water block cause its normally bowed ( convex ) and lapping it will destroy this. Lapping mean to sand and polish the surface to make it perfect flat.

yeah a reservoir is kinda needed but some ppl just use a Tline.

The res is normally placed higher then your Pump. Making the fill/bleeding easyer !
 
i also learned PT nuke is biocide which makes sense to have that, i was actually asking the question about algae, being someone that has had many fish tanks that stuff builds up quick, especially if your water is any where in sunlight.


also not looking to get into liquid cooling the gpu yet, so its starting to look like this Swiftech Apex is a good deal.. any thoughts?
 
Lapped mean a miror finish. or something like that.

more so to make the base flat then a mirror finish. something can be shiny but not flat. then there is the whole debate on how high a grit to go with and whether to get a mirror like finish or not.


also not looking to get into liquid cooling the gpu yet, so its starting to look like this Swiftech Apex is a good deal.. any thoughts?

yes it's a good deal and one of the few good kits. but you will still need a biocide.
 
i'm thinking to go with the Swiftech Apex, unless someone can suggest better parts for the same money, also i'm going to get PT Nuke, and i was wondering if i wanted the water to be blue or green or whatever is food coloring ok inside it as well, thus to make it sexier.
thx again
 
Just about everyone here will tell you not to use dyes but use coloured tubing instead. I bought a used rad a couple of weeks ago and I'm still trying to get the red dye out after flushing it at least 20 times with isopropyl alcohol, hot water and also running tap water through it for 3 hours. Every time I think I've done a final rinse another lot of pinkish water comes out. Losing the will to live.
 
ok staying away from the coloring.... used regular clear tubing for now... no colored... and silver coild.. is that just the metal coil around the tube to prevent kinks?
 
Im running distilled+PTnuke for years and i never had any algea or anything else in my loop. Flush/refill every 6 months to MAX 1 year.

Use antikink if you have huge curve to prevent the tube from kinking.

Like this :

DSCF1533.JPG
 
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