Has Anyone Tried This Heater Core

[DodgeViper]

[Hoot]

That looks a lot like the one I got From Danger Den, with the exception of the ports being cut and nipples sweated into them. If it indeed is the same, expect great performance from it and sneer at those of us who paid $37.00 for it, though we did get the barbs already attached for the additional $10.00.

Hoot

[f155mph]

I am using one like that except is 12x6x2. $19 at autozone. Cut some of the 5/8 pipe off and got to home depot and buy a 1/2 npt brass barb, it will fit perfect. As for the 3/4 size pipe, get a reducer from HD and sweat that on too. Save you atleast $15 with shipping and all.

[Spartacus51]

Don't have this one, but I did pick one up from local bumper to bumper that fits perfectly in a drive bay (would be nice for someone who has a few open slots... ie full tower) if you mod the top can mount the fans in the top. Unfortunately for me I only have one open slot and don't think I'd get very good cooling if I stuck it in the drive bay, so it's time to get out the dremel and make things work some other way...

If anyone is interested let me know and I'll get the exact dimensions and part number up here.

[CMangano]

Viper,

How big are the openings on the top of the radiator? Are you going to have to modify them to fit your tubing?

[CMangano]

From the picture it appears the tubes fit over the radiator, but he used the barbing to hold them in place. Is this correct?

[CMangano]

Oh ya, I liked your original idea with the radiator on the top with fans blowing out of the case...are you still doing it like this or are you doing it just like Hoot's?

[Hoot]

Originally posted by DodgeViper
Hoot, I am only guessing but is your shroud made somewhat like this. I don’t claim to be able to draw and this is about as artistic I can get, but when it comes to fabricating I can stand on my two feet.

Almost. You show cutouts on both sides. I have a cutout only on one side of each of the two shrouds. The other side is strait wall and slips over the outer walls of the radiator with a snug fit. Kind of like this:

Hoot

[Krusty]

Hoot, wanna send me a link to your setup? I just bought myself a case similar to the antec sx1040 and have been modding it the past week. Just got myself a couple of 172mm comair rotron fans so I now have everything for my setup, including a heater core for a 1987 ford escort. Wonderful looking radiator, except the tubes turn out at a 45 degree angle, so it will fit a bit funny. I'd love to see how you people have your water cooling systems set up. I'm planning on making it completely internal, but will likely wind up with a fan on the top outside of my case.

[Hoot]

Originally posted by DodgeViper
Hoot, from what you did to the drawing is what I had met to do. I am thinking of attaching the shroud to the H/C with solder, only in the corners though.


Once I fit both shrouds onto the heater core, I ran a small bead around the edges with RTV, AKA Silastic, Silicon Rubber, etc. It helps retain the shrouds and serves to deaden any vibration from the two fans that gets conducted through the sheet metal. It also discourages that last little bit of air from leaking around the edges due to the outside of the heater core being a corrugated surface. You show your shroud as only 3/4" deep. I made mine 1" to allow a little room between the fans and the surface of the fins. With the fans too close, particularly, the blowing-in fan, you get cavitation whine.

Hoot

[Hoot]

Originally posted by Krusty
Hoot, wanna send me a link to your setup? -snip-

Krusty, I don't have a link to my setup.

Hoot

[Hoot]

Aah. Given that scenario, soldering the corners and RTV'ing the seams makes real good sense.

Hoot

[paupton]

Im using the same heatercore. I just JBWelded the barbs in though. It works great. I think it is brass. i dont know if that will be a problem in the future or not.
Any have any idea.

[webmedic]

What about a fan shroud like this one:
http://community.webshots.com/photo/30556976/30557392NfIwzjxcjv

[Krusty]

Originally posted by webmedic
What about a fan shroud like this one:
http://community.webshots.com/storage/1/v1/5/73/92/30557392NfIwzjxcjv_ph.jpg

bad link. we're "forbidden" from accessing that picture.

[webmedic]

Thanks try it now. This should work ok.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/30556976/30557392NfIwzjxcjv

[racecar12]

I bought one similar for a new setup except mine is a 1987 Ford Escort w/AC. Bought it at auto zone for 17.99. Instead of soldering, I used jb weld to secure my fittings.

My goal in this setup was to have it under $100 for a killer water cooling setup. Home made 257 gal/hr custom pump/res I built for $25.00.

And I modified my spiral w/b with an Al top after a small accident while using a 220watt pelt.

My normal homepage is down atm so I appologize for such a temp site. You can see some pics here (http://racecar12.freehomepage.com/photo.html)

[CMangano]

Where do you get JB Weld at?

Also, what are the dimensions of your Ford Escort Radiator?

[racecar12]

Originally posted by CMangano
Where do you get JB Weld at?

Also, what are the dimensions of your Ford Escort Radiator? Here (http://www.heatercore4u.com/2-415.htm) is a link to some specs on the Escort rad. You can get jb weld at auto zone also. The plastic fittings I got at Lowe's Hardware $.79ea.

[buffhr]

racecar12 just a tought but copper wb with an alum top = lookin for problems IMO with corrosion in the long run. Also id like to hear the incident with the 220 watt plet also did the block keep reasonnable temps and handle the heatload pretty good(hence would it work on say a spiral block with a copper top). Thx

[racecar12]

Originally posted by buffhr
racecar12 just a tought but copper wb with an alum top = lookin for problems IMO with corrosion in the long run. Also id like to hear the incident with the 220 watt plet also did the block keep reasonnable temps and handle the heatload pretty good(hence would it work on say a spiral block with a copper top). Thx Galvanic corrosion can be inhibited with several different methods. If I wasn't so antsy to get it put together, I would've had it anodized blue. Which still might happen in the future. But for now I will be using purple ice in my mix for corrosion prevention.

To try and make a long story short. I forgot to turn on the water pump before powering up the 200watt pelt. Stupid, I know, but had realized what I had done in less than 20 seconds before cutting the power to the pelt and just before I plug in the water pump I heard the crack of the acrylic top,"****!!!"

I only had 8-10hrs of testing, but results were excellent. Along with the spiral, I had a custom made copper 13"x17" 10 pass free flow radiator and a 257gal/hr waterpump. I used the Abit kt7a-r and a duron 600 for testing.

Duron 600@1002Mhz
V-core 1.89
Idle temps -3c
Full load temps 7c

Peltier and spiral info:
15v suppied
24amp draw
Water temp 29.9c
257gal/hr flow rate
13"x17" rad

Getting long so I'll stop now:D

[paupton]

Hey guys, my radiator looks just like Hoot's. I also cut off the 5/8 tubing and JB welded the brass barbs into the inlet and outlet pipes. Hoot is the fan shroud on your system made of brass. It looks like. I am going to make one also for a single 120mm which will then be placed in a cube refrigerator ice tray with the fan blowing. I dont know what kind of temps Ill get but I suspect they will be very low. May have to do some insulating. I will post my pics as soon as I get my scanner and Win XP to agree on the matter. Also what do i need to watch for as far as the water is concerned. Algea, corrosion, etc. etc. ? Any ideas.

[Hoot]

My shroud is made from 24ga copper sheet, but I gotta say, I like DodgeVipers brasswork a lot better. Not too worry, I'm not ripping my setup apart any time soon. However, having run my unit for 2 months now, I just took it into the workshop, fired up the compressor, removed the front escutcheon and gave it a good blowing out. I could not believe the amount of dust that came out of the radiator assembly. Amazingly, my c/w had not changed at all since I first fired this baby up. A testimony to that Heater Core! Needless to say, I won't wait that long to do preventive maintenance the next time. Already marked the calendar.

Hoot

[Hoot]

If you're not going to be running a peltier, you don't need that second radiator. That heater core with a pair of 120x38mm 86cfm Sunons or Panaflos in push-pull will give you more than enough cooling capacity for any modern processor at max wattage that your PSU will support. Keep It Simple. I'm not into "Window Dressings" either. A gold plated turd is still a turd. :D

Hoot

[racecar12]

Nice shroud and overall job DodgeViper. Here (http://racecar12.freehomepage.com/ductpattern_s.jpg) is a nice duct pattern that is helpful for all. Might have to copy and paste link.

I have started doing something new with my rad, case and cooling. Rather than srouding and putting a fan on the radiator, I am allowing the whole case to be my shroud. My main source of air intake for the case is through the radiator. All of my fans are exhausting. Like (C&P link) this (http://racecar12.freehomepage.com/radcasevent.jpg).

Now I know I am getting full air across the radiator. I have sealed all other openings except the cover for the slot just below my vid card as another intake source, for the obvious cooling reasons. Essentially, I now have 4 80mm fans and one 120mm fan designated for the cooling radiator.

For those who have the radiator in the top of the case acting as a blow hole. This is not a good design due to the fact that the case temp is usually 3-5+ degrees warmer than ambient temps. By venting your case air through your rad, your are increasing the temp of the water and in return getting 5+ extra degrees at the cpu.

[Krusty]

Originally posted by racecar12

For those who have the radiator in the top of the case acting as a blow hole. This is not a good design due to the fact that the case temp is usually 3-5+ degrees warmer than ambient temps. By venting your case air through your rad, your are increasing the temp of the water and in return getting 5+ extra degrees at the cpu.

I wouldn't be too sure about that. If you have enough airflow going through your case, I would think the top can be pretty much the same temperature as the bottom. The plan I am implementing involves 1 120mm fan to cool pci cards, 1 172mm 235cfm fan intake on the bottom, 1 80mm fan out the back (along with psu fan) and another 172mm 235cfm blowhole on the top where the radiator is going.

Now I haven't finished it yet, but I am expecting outstanding airflow that will cool my entire case to ambient.

[Neco]

I am not Mr. Compact everything - as I hate messy cases (mine is messy enough).


I have listened to lots of things on the forum lately and I think it would be a neat project when I get the money to do the following. which would probably be my permanent solution.


Buy a nice full tower and 600W PSU for my rig - get 2 nice quiet and filtered 120mm case fans, put on in the bottom front like normal, and another under the PSU if possible.

line what I can of the case with carpet padding, and stuff so it's not so noisey.


Get a nice Danger Den Maze 2 block (or whatever the best is at the time) for my CPU, and a nice waterblock that will fit on whatever video card I will have (currently R8500)

Get a nice Heater Core for a radiator, and then build a revised version of my 1 gallon paint can reservoir w/500gph pump.

I'll probably go 1/2 inch tubing as well, since I'll have the space in my case.

I'll then get another case, either mid-tow AT or baby AT if available, or ATX if I need to.

Rip apart the etmpy tower as much as I can, and put the reservoir at the "back" of the case where all the PCI slots would be.. that section would be sealed airtight as well, and the case would be insulated with carpet padding too.

Have another front intake fan on that tower, as well as another intake above the PCI slots if the case allows a mod for it, otherwise I'll stick a fan on the side panel of the case.

Cut a hole in the top of the empty tower to mount the Heat Core, and then mount a nice powerful (but quiet!) 120mm fan on the core, running everything off the PSU that comes with the empty tower.

put them right next to each other, with perfectly cut hose length and I'd say it makes a great nice looking setup while still allowing you to access your PC without taking 1 million parts out to put some RAM in or change a video card.

Expensive ? oh sure, but that's the whole point

:D

[racecar12]

Originally posted by Krusty


I wouldn't be too sure about that. If you have enough airflow going through your case, I would think the top can be pretty much the same temperature as the bottom. The plan I am implementing involves 1 120mm fan to cool pci cards, 1 172mm 235cfm fan intake on the bottom, 1 80mm fan out the back (along with psu fan) and another 172mm 235cfm blowhole on the top where the radiator is going.

Now I haven't finished it yet, but I am expecting outstanding airflow that will cool my entire case to ambient. I am pretty sure about that. We all know heat rises. Your psu and roms(ever noticed how hot the roms get during operation?), being the closest to the rad will emit heat directly towards the rad not to mention the heat from the system.

Granted, you are going to have 500+ cfm going through your case. And the air will change in the case several time a second. But where is the heat from your system escaping from? A: Your radiator. You will have less of an effect on your system due to the shear cfm than most people with this design, but I would not want that much noise, personally.

[racecar12]

Originally posted by DodgeViper
Down the road there may be a peltier installed. I rather prep the case once and not have to remove everything again. Can believe the PanaFlo's have not arrived. Still debating what W/B to buy. I would really like to get my hands on the Spiral. I emailed the guy but he or they have yet to reply back. Boy is this tower going to be heavy. I added the other shoud and without the faceplate and fans the weight is adding up. I am sure you know, but fixittt is not planing on building any more spirals. I think, after he finishes filling the last pre-order, he will be doing things on a more personal level and discontinue the production of the spiral w/b. It really is too bad ,because it is such a killer waterblock. My spiral is stamped #3.

<edit>BTW...That radiator does look really cool:cool:

[paupton]

Hey Dodgeviper,,,,, nice job on the shroud dude. My Rad is exactly the same one. Let me tell you what I did with mine. Instead of putting the radiator inside my case I went above my power supply in a tower case, drilled two holes and put barb connectors inside and outside my case on the back. I then hooked extra long hoses to the two barbs coming out the top, back of my case and ran them to the rad. I have 8 feet of hose. I put the rad out of my window and wow do I get some great temps. If I want to go mobile i just loop a hose from one barb to the other and insert the rad in line in the top of my case already set up for it. Pretty cool huh.
good luck with your system.

[racecar12]

Originally posted by DodgeViper
RaceCar12, is this the spiral you have? CLICK (http://dtekcustoms.safeshopper.com/7/31.htm?352)

Yep, that is the one. Poor w/b block has been through alot in a short time. Here (http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c5/thehunter/spiralrepair.shtml) are some shots of the repair I made. The server is having problems with their homepages but the link was working at the time of this post.

[racecar12]

DodgeViper,
I think the acylic tops are made of lexan. It is quite pliable unlike plixi glass which is more brittle. Mine cracked due to a peltier accident, but all the other breaks that I know of where done by screwing the hose barbs in too far. The hose barb on the outlet will hit the top off the copper w/b, if screwed in too far, causing the the acrylic to lift from its mount. That is where most cracks come from.

[Iron Hawk]

Looks Sweet!!!

[markshelby]

Dodge Viper, nice shroud. Two questions:

How did you put the pieces together?

And what's the silver-tape looking stuff around all the seams?

[chuckerants]

top

[xvi3tsoljahx]

can you tell me how to use a car rad for watercooling.. not sure with barb whatever that means... explain explain =D oc.com has been my teacher for these past months i need info feed me =) some instructions or how things work would be great im planning to go kragen and gettin a rad too then buyin some parts by parts so i can build up on my machine =)

[h2sammo]

DodgeViper is not into fancy looking turds...and that rad looks so darn fine and brass shiny.

Just imagine how it would look if he were into fancy.

heh

[DodgeViper]

DodgeViper is not into fancy looking turds...and that rad looks so darn fine and brass shiny. Just imagine how it would look if he were into fancy.

Well I did not say I did not like quality. I am a craftsman, but I just don't need a side window looking into my computer. I know what’s inside. Thanks for the compliment though.

Becasue this thread has been revisited and brought back to the top I have a link to an article I wrote on the heater core/shroud that may be of interest to some readers. CLICK (http://www.phlux.co.uk/articles.php?aid=7&page=1) Many changes have been made from the time this article was published, but the heater core / shroud remains the same.

[wildfrogman]

If it was "fancy" probably gold plated with a chrome job on the shroud heheh, ohwell it still looks very well put together....and that should be the most important thing. Oh and bump for 235 cfm comair rotron 172mm fans as they are monster fans that just about fit on that radiator.

[Silversinksam]

All I gotta say is if it wasn't for Hoot I would still be using Air cooling.

Hoot not only was my inspiration, but he always took the time to help me and many countless others dip thier toes into the watercooling realm.

My hat's off to you Hoot

:)