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Simple solution for bleading air from top mounted rad

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havor

Registered
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Location
Norway
Hi i always had little problem whit draining top mounted rad's

I just ordered the following female/male adapter from Aquacomputer

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I Just cut it to 5mm shorter then the length that will fit in to my rad drill the center up to 10~11mm and will drill 2 ore 3 holes just above the tread for draining purpose

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Think i now wil never have to worry about my rad having air in it :cool:
 
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just tilt your case ~45° to the back while it running.

i usually use a large BOOK and insert it under the front of the case. let the system run overnight tilted like this.
 
I never though of useing a booking...I did the WaterCooling Dance

Shake, tip left, tip right, tip back, tip forward, wait a few then repeat....helps to listen to the Cha Cha Slide 2.....kidding
 
I never though of useing a booking...I did the WaterCooling Dance

Shake, tip left, tip right, tip back, tip forward, wait a few then repeat....helps to listen to the Cha Cha Slide 2.....kidding

I did the same thing with my setup, but I have an externally rear mounted rad. The reason I did this is because my compression fitting on the rad are at the bottom. Due to the D5 pump, I didn't think it was a good idea to turn the case upside down with the inlet to the pump sitting at the top the way it is mounted now. That would put the inlet at the bottom, and I seem to remember that was the only way the pump can't be ran.
 
just tilt your case ~45° to the back while it running.

i usually use a large BOOK and insert it under the front of the case. let the system run overnight tilted like this.
Hey if you can turn your system around great, but some reservoirs/setups don't like to be tilted and work best the way when they stay horizontal, then this is a simple solution.

It also makes sure that you never can get a air buildup in you rad for what reason what so ever.

Is that bleeder a G1/4 thread???
Yes male/female
 
I've built top-mounted rad loops and never had an issue with bleeding ... :shrug:
+1 same here!!! A little shake shake shake on the case and all bubbles were gone pretty quickly.

I have to admit I have read the OP's post a couple of times and still dont get it. I must be particularly dense these last couple of days when I read that post... :fight: :bang head :bday:
 
+1 same here!!! A little shake shake shake on the case and all bubbles were gone pretty quickly.

I have to admit I have read the OP's post a couple of times and still dont get it. I must be particularly dense these last couple of days when I read that post... :fight: :bang head :bday:
Its pretty simple by inserting in the outlet a pipe that extends to almost of the top of your rad you almost have the same effect as top mounted connections.

No more need to tilt your PC
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:confused: There is no drilling required, you just put the adapter/pipe between your rad and your outlet fitting.

It got on the male side the the extension pipe you screw in to your rad, and on the female side you got you standard G1/4 ware you screw in your compression/barb fitting, the hole thing sits just in between.
 
LOL, I told you I was particularly dense for some reason in this thread...

Again, great idea and implementation. Im good with my method though. :)
 
Sounds like a great idea, but with top mounted radiators, I've never had a problem with tilting the case to drain or bleed... or just the good old "shake the hell out of the case/radiator until all the air bleeds out" method
 
if your barbs are at the top, then it's easy to bleed?!?! even rads with the barbs on the bottom are easy to bleed, just needs time.
 
if your barbs are at the top, then it's easy to bleed?!?! even rads with the barbs on the bottom are easy to bleed, just needs time.
Exactly!

My first top-mounted loop I let the loop run for a few of hours then got crazy and tilted this way and that way and every other way (with some help from my better half to keep the T-line upright) and you know what I got for all that trouble? Nothing - zero, zilch, nada. There was no air in the rad at all. BUT I learned a very valuable lesson, so it was worth the trouble ... ;)
 
Its pretty simple by inserting in the outlet a pipe that extends to almost of the top of your rad you almost have the same effect as top mounted connections.

No more need to tilt your PC
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I think your consept is good, but are you not going to reduce flow, and even by the diagram you still do not get all the air out....I think the WC Dance still stands as the best way to remove air.
 
I think your consept is good, but are you not going to reduce flow,
I am a pipe-fitter from trade, and build once a tank whit in it a suction pipe, roughly the same setup but upside-down from this setup, when we tested how low we could insert the suction pipe in to the tank, we had go below half the diameter of the pipe before we had reduction in flow.

and even by the diagram you still do not get all the air out
Yes you will get all the air out, and even if there would be some air inside it would have no impact on the cooling of you rad, and it would be far less then whit out the pipe.

....I think the WC Dance still stands as the best way to remove air.
Hey, if you comfortbele whit shacing your PC go a head.

But i am going to use a pump like this, shaking is just no real option for me :sly:

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^^ i know exactly what you mean, if it was $50 i think i would grab it.

EDIT:, i finally get how it works lol, i didn't realize how the rad was mounted. horizontal with barbs facing down.

neat idea but again, it's not that hard to bleed a rad, just give it time :).
 
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