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Best Cooling Fluid to use!!!

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2C@nts4U

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Location
From NORWAY, live in USA
Ok due to all the people that gave me crap that Distilled water was better here is 1 of the many links I found ... that had proven DISTILLED WATER is not as great as you had made it out to be and that Feser was better but even one fluid that was 4°C better than "DISTILLED WATER" on average

Feser One VS other Fluids

:shrug:

Also if you search and read up on Feser One you will find that you DON"T have to add anything to it for it allready has blockers in it.. unlike Distilled Water..

and yes I know Feser One is more expensive.. than Distilled Water but not by that much after you by all the blocks and additives you need...
 
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Water wetter is not distilled water but oil why they add oil into distilled water! can't it be just normal distilled water?... Weird idea...
It is a comparison of better heat transfert right?
Pro
Non Conductive --- false
Would like to do a test... but dont want to kill my components :(
 
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Ok due to all the people that gave me crap that Distilled water was better here is 1 of the many links I found ... that had proven DISTILLED WATER is not as great as you had made it out to be and that Feser was better but even one fluid that was 4°C better than "DISTILLED WATER" on average

Feser One VS other Fluids

:shrug:

Also if you search and read up on Feser One you will find that you DON"T have to add anything to it for it allready has blockers in it.. unlike Distilled Water..

and yes I know Feser One is more expensive.. than Distilled Water but not by that much after you by all the blocks and additives you need...

I spend $.60 on water, a bit over 1/2 a gallon at $1 a gallon at Walgreens, buy a bottle of Petras PHN PT-Nuke for $7.00 shipped. The bottle lasts me for ohh 20+ loops, at $.35 cents per use. Don't know how it can be cheaper than that, under $1.00. Since proper maintenance is done every 6 months, I'd rather spend $2.00 in a year than $60+ myself on questionable reviews.
 
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I just found out that distilled water with water wetter is better than Feser 1!!! This link "proves" it: http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2008/02/16/watercooling_fluid_shootout/4
Everyone stop doing what we've been doing for eight years! :D

Sorry to be sarcastic, but this comes up every now and then. The quick, easy truth is that pure distilled water is the best thing to put in your system. It's true that methyl alcohol, for example, does better than water, but it also eats acrylic and can kill you. There are lots of things you could add to your water if you want, but distilled water typically outperforms everything out there without being toxic, eating away at your components, or gunking up your pump. Also, it's really cheap.

You can add a bit of this or that as necessary, like antifreeze as a corrosion inhibitor for mixed-metal loops and a few drops of fungicide (which I do) but in a best case scenario you fill up your loop with 100% distilled water and call it good.
 
So according to what you linked, in the Pro's, it says "Glows very brightly". This tells me this stuff is a dye. If you want to deal with all the gummed up sediment clogging up your blocks, pump impeller, and rad, have at it. I will continue to use distilled water and silver, and not have to worry about my components getting ruined because of dyes.

The Delta's that I just put on my rad dropped my temps by about 5C, but at the cost of some serious noise. Going from the medium speed Yates (tested at around 35 db from 3 feet away with my buddy's db meter), to these Delta's at 48.5 db at 12 volts, from the same 3 feet away, 53 db. 3 db is perceived by the human ear as twice as loud. That means that the rig is several times as loud with the Delta's at 12 volts than the Yates. No matter how you try to justify it, lower temps at the cost of 10x the maintenance when it is time for the break down and cleaning, or lower temps at several times the noise, I'm sorry to say it, the negatives far outweigh the positives in this case.

Edit: Had to fix fix it. Since I got to thinking about it, I realized that 18 db louder is more than just 6x. I don't remember the exact scale since I quit doing car audio competitions several years ago, but I do know that it is quite a bit.
 
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those load numbers are way to far off, i don't trust it much and wouldn't put much into it.

also as others have stated, that's Distilled AND water wetter, and he doesn't say what percentage.

and again as others have said the cost and ease of getting distilled far out way's feser.
 
It is so FUNNY that everyone is YELLING (DISTILLED WATER with NO DYE is better than Feser One that has DYE)... there was never a dispute about that DYEs are bad including Feser Dyed Fluids...

I am talking about clear Feser One...NO DYE vs Distilled water....and again no matter how you twist it Feser wins......we have all come to the same conclusion that Dyes wether Feser or Distilled is bad for the WC loop PERIOD...

Also...alot of the teardown pics I have seen of distilled water there was more corrosion and build up then that of Dyed Fluids, which were easily cleaned up, where as the corroded parts had to be replaced.

I am however curious about the Windshield Fuild test on copper and brass....any1 done this...


Again not to get off topic here... I am not saying Distilled Water is bad.., I am not saying Feser is the ABSOLUTE...I am not a Feser fan....I am however a fan of BEST PERFORMANCE items .... and as we all know to get that last little 0.01%, that 1 FRPS, that 1 ns faster, that one volt less, it all cost MORE money...in this case it is the Fluid up for discussion...

If you want to go cheap for ALMOST the same performance get Distilled Water, if money is not a question and/or you want that little extra cooling get Feser One Clear......thats all there is to it......

If you feel your toes were stepped on....I am sorry...but get over it......facts are facts.....and we all have are opinions as to what is BEST..... some of us will see eye to eye on some stuff and other times we will disagree... we are all here to learn and share what we have learned... ((NOT to say your WRONG or right)) and SOMETIMES even prove the Manufactures that thier products do not work as they say.....

I hope noone took to much offence to this....and that we all learned something ....
 
I more had fun reading your 'gotta win' post more than anything else. Didn't surprise me one bit. Hard to offend a guy that sees these types of posts on a few forums once a month.

Your stuff your money. You done yet?
 
humn the link says window washer fluid lower dt than either. guess the credibility of that website just went out the door.

This I have to agree with. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't window washer fluid (thinking of the stuff that goes in the washer tank under the hood of my truck:screwy:) basically soap, water, and some kind of anti freeze? Seems the soap would hinder heat transfer to the water, as well as the antifreeze.

I also need to mention that most of the people here that are always screaming "distilled and PT-Nuke only" are screaming that because of experience. How much different can Feser 1 clear really be than Feser 1 blue, or red. To the best of my knowledge, the only difference is the color(s) of pigment added to get the colors. Run that stuff in your loop for 9-12 months, and I bet you will be having the same problems as those running dyes. Somehow, I see the review as flawed, and would only take it with a hessun of salt.
 
This I have to agree with. Correct me if I am wrong, but isn't window washer fluid (thinking of the stuff that goes in the washer tank under the hood of my truck) basically soap, water, and some kind of anti freeze? Seems the soap would hinder heat transfer to the water, as well as the antifreeze.
It's a mixture of methanol and water. That's why it does so well.
 
Depends on where you are.
Here in cali if you aren't in a "cold zone" it's ammonia based soap and water.
If you're in a cold zone, it's methanol and water.
 
It's a mixture of methanol and water. That's why it does so well.

Thanks for the information. I never actually took the time to read the label.

I still have to wonder how long it would perform well for before the other additives (there has to be some kind of dyes to give them the pink, green, and blue colors that I commonly see) before they start breaking down and start clogging blocks and pumps?
 
It's a mixture of methanol and water. That's why it does so well.

yup.

as for the soap, some people *cough* overclock.net *cough* always recommend 1-2 drops of dawn soap as a surfactant and claim lower temps, but i haven't seen any proper testing that it helps. i should test it myself just to see if it does anything, maybe the next time i clean the loop.
 
yup.

as for the soap, some people *cough* overclock.net *cough* always recommend 1-2 drops of dawn soap as a surfactant and claim lower temps, but i haven't seen any proper testing that it helps. i should test it myself just to see if it does anything, maybe the next time i clean the loop.

I'm not sure I would want to put soap in my loop. Somehow, I always picture an overflowing dishwasher.:screwy:
 
Aha! I remeber that one. It custs down on the tiny bubbles for bleeding in the res and just makes big ones. Really, was a bleedeing helper.

been quiet a while since I seen anything on that.
 
Aha! I remeber that one. It custs down on the tiny bubbles for bleeding in the res and just makes big ones. Really, was a bleedeing helper.

Somehow this reminds me even more of the scenes in movies where kids get the box of dish soap and pour the whole thing into the dishwasher and manage to turn the thing on. I don't think a couple of drops would really have the same effect to that extent, but I'm not sure I want to try it either.:p
 
The site linked to in the OP only mentions the system and TIM in how these were tested. He didn't mention how many mounts he tried. 4°C is within the range of a bad mount. Plus he didn't test against distilled water, he tested against distilled with water wetter.

I like johan's link because it proves and confirms what I want it to. :p
 
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