Dryer interupting internet?

[Quigsby]

I have an odd scenario: Whenever my wife turns on the dryer in our utility room, it interrupts my internet connection. If I'm playing a game online, I'll get d/c'ed. If I'm surfing the internet, it will not be able to retrieve for about 15 seconds or so. Do you think this is plausible? Would would cause it? Solutions?

[thideras]

Are you using wireless?
Is the router/switch on the same circuit as the dryer?

[Quigsby]

Are you using wireless?
Is the router/switch on the same circuit as the dryer?

I don't have wireless to my desktop rigs (which is what I'm referring to in this post). I believe the dryer is a 240V which would use it's own circuit.

[TollhouseFrank]

I don't have wireless to my desktop rigs (which is what I'm referring to in this post). I believe the dryer is a 240V which would use it's own circuit.

still not necessarily ruling it out.

In most circuit breakers/fuse boxes, the line splits into 2 parts going down in a column. Each column is fed by the same 'feeder' on it's side. Whenever the dryer kicks on, even though it is on it's own seperate feed to the box, it still draws heavily for that instant it kicks on. Anything else on that column of breakers will thus get a shallow brown-out. Most devices aren't affected. Some electronics that are sensitive to power variations can be affected, usually by them self-power cycling.

**used to live in an old house that had this issue**

[Quigsby]

still not necessarily ruling it out.

In most circuit breakers/fuse boxes, the line splits into 2 parts going down in a column. Each column is fed by the same 'feeder' on it's side. Whenever the dryer kicks on, even though it is on it's own seperate feed to the box, it still draws heavily for that instant it kicks on. Anything else on that column of breakers will thus get a shallow brown-out. Most devices aren't affected. Some electronics that are sensitive to power variations can be affected, usually by them self-power cycling.

**used to live in an old house that had this issue**

I'm familiar with the operation of a breaker box so I see where you're coming from. I probably should have my router and modem on a battery backup anyways: think that's a good first step?

I was curious if a dryer used some sort of capacitor or something to get it spinning and was causing some sort of emission? Then I remembered that my coax is shielded, so I don't think that could be an issue (unless it's quite a large discharge of some sort).

You're likely correct that it's a power issue, albeit troubling. From a home owner perspective is there anything I can do to shore that up?

[bchur83]

I would get a UPS battery backup for your network equipment to adjust for any voltage drops due to the dryer starting. That would be a good starting place.

[TollhouseFrank]

I would get a UPS battery backup for your network equipment to adjust for any voltage drops due to the dryer starting. That would be a good starting place.

ding ding ding.

Doesn't have to be an expensive one. a cheap UPS battery should more than cover the 1-2 second power diminution. Just make sure it doesn't that annoying beep. Nothing like hearing a screaming 'BRAAAAAWK!' in your ears everytime the dryer kicks on.....

[Quigsby]

Have any to recommend? I'd like to pick it up in town but fairly limited to my options. Have Walmart, Best Buy (although I prefer not to shop there), Circuit City, Target (not sure if they carry it).

If not I can just pick one up from Buy.com (saw a tripp lite there).

[thideras]

Any of the APC ones can be found for cheap and are widely available. Decent quality and fairly cheap.

[bchur83]

Anything around a 350-500VA would work great. I have used APC, Cyberpower, Dynex, and a few others, all of them have worked great.

[TollhouseFrank]

the ones we have here in the store (whenever we get them in) are APC units that cost about $35 bucks.

[Quigsby]

Got a 350W APC unit at Sam's and it seems to do the trick! Thanks!

On the homeowner side, think I should upgrade the dryer breaker?

[TollhouseFrank]

that's something I'd talk to an electrician about.

[mrgettmann]

I don't have wireless to my desktop rigs (which is what I'm referring to in this post). I believe the dryer is a 240V which would use it's own circuit.

You said that dont use wireless on your desktop rigs, but are they cabled via a wireless router? Last year when I was living with my friend, he had his desktop connected via cable to his wireless router and his PS3 via wireless. Whenever you turned on the microwave it would fuzz up the wireless router, physical connection and all.

If you can turn off the wireless on your router(assuming it is wireless) that might solve your issue.

[Quigsby]

This reared it's ugly head the last couple of days. I thought things were going well, or maybe it was my lack of interweb usage since it became nice out. I'm starting to wonder about the pieces and parts of my setup.

From where the RG6 comes in the house it uses a screw type connector and a female/female plug (cheap) and connects to a custom length RG6 that runs across my floor joists (about 3 of them) and then down in to the wall (physically through an hole) and down to a wall plate that has a female/female. From there I run a 5 ft or so coax to the cable modem (Dlink 202). From the modem it runs to my router (Linksys wrt54gl running Tomato). The two computers I use run 6 ft or so Cat 5e runs to this router.

I was monitoring my usage with my two WoW accounts logged in to Dalaran (the major city) and I was pulling about 150 kbits, or about 20kB. When I got out of a major populated area it would substantially get better. If I was to play a game with two accounts, do you think there could be any confusion (you'd think not because the TCP/IP stack should be able to tie it correctly on the Application Layer).

Do you think those cheaper twist on connectors for RG6 could actually cause any issues with connection? What about using compression fittings - nicety or a necessity?

Think custom firmware like Tomato could be causing issues? I haven't upgraded it in a long time, so not sure there.

Any thoughts on the cable modem?

I'm just trying to identify items I could try. Heck, when all is said and done it could be on WoW's end and I'm just SOL. But when I get d/c'ed my internet also can't resolve ... so not sure there.

[SeanBest]

Nothing like hearing a screaming 'BRAAAAAWK!' in your ears everytime the dryer kicks on.....

This serves no purpose to this thread, but I couldn't help myself.

I seriously LOL'd badly at this.

[Quigsby]

I was checking out my modem and I ran across these stats:

Downstream
Channel Power: -17.9 dBmV
SNR: 29.003 dB

Upstream
Channel Power: 56.1 dBmV

Those look within spec? I'm using a dlink 202.

[petteyg359]

I was checking out my modem and I ran across these stats:

Downstream
Channel Power: -17.9 dBmV
SNR: 29.003 dB

Upstream
Channel Power: 56.1 dBmV

Those look within spec? I'm using a dlink 202.


http://www.speedguide.net/read_articles.php?id=1197
Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR): 30dB (higher is better)
Power Level: -15 to 15, prefer -8 to 8
Upstream Power: 55dBmV (lower is better)


Your SNR is a bit low.
Your downstream power is out of line.
Your upstream power is out of line.



A comment posted on that page says that your numbers are WAY off, if you're DOCSIS 3.

Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR): 32dB-50dB
Power Level: -5 to 5
Upstream Power: 32dBmV-50dBmV

[Quigsby]

I believe I'm on DOCSIS 2.0. In any event, would better connectors (using the screw-on type) and or just redoing the connections help? I did them by hand so they're probably pretty tough.

[TollhouseFrank]

being that far out of line? Try redoing the connectors at every point you hand-did them before.

[Quigsby]

Your SNR is a bit low.
Your downstream power is out of line.
Your upstream power is out of line.



A comment posted on that page says that your numbers are WAY off, if you're DOCSIS 3.

Signal to Noise Ratio (SNR): 32dB-50dB
Power Level: -5 to 5
Upstream Power: 32dBmV-50dBmV

I redid just one of my connections and I got them mostly within spec. Man those crimp on connectors are hard to push on. I'll have to work at it more. I have some mean looking connections. I might have to buy a tool that pushes those on because I wasn't able to with the wire shielding pushed back. I just redid my screw type connector but it got things better.